grsjax

And 90% rubbing alcohol (isopropanol) for de-bonding white or yellow glue! We all make oopsies....

Magarkus
WELCOME TO MSW!!  It great to see another "youngster" join this motley crew of oldsters.  I second and third the recommendations above for the David Antscherl designed shipwright series.   https://modelexpo-online.com/Model-Shipways-Shipwright-Series_c_815.html  After learning many very important basics with one or more of these beautiful models, if you are interested in a realistic looking larger vessel that is a more complex project, Vanguard has a good reputation for your next builds.   Pay heed to what Chris posted about Albatros.   Basic hobby tools are pretty much all you need for the shipwright series.  You will then see what additional tools you want to add to your bench.   Be aware, tool acquisition can be very addictive.  Look at the various build logs here at MSW and study the tutorials. (https://thenrg.org/resource/articles)
Allan

Clamps! Get lots of clamps!
 
Steven

I'd start with Model Expos ModelShipright series. They are designed to lead you along in the various aspects of shipbuilding. As far as tools are concerned, get a good miter box and razor saw, a knife (Exacto or Excel) a dual scale ruler inches /cm, needle nose pliers, a tweezer. Carpenters glue, sandpaper, some superglue, and a variety of clamps. A stand alone mirror, or one with clamps attached for those small blocks so you can see what you are working on. As your budget, time and skills increase you can add other tools as needed. Best of luck to you, and look forward to reading your building log whatever you decide to get.

A few recommendations:
 
I don't know much about the Albatros kit in particular, but it is a Mantua product, and they aren't one of the first names to come up in discussions about contenders in the "Best Kit Instructions" category. Starter tool combos have both their benefits and drawbacks. If you have zero tools to start with, then they're of course better than nothing. OTOH, many modelers, myself included, have quickly discovered after purchasing such tool sets that some tools get used a lot while others are rarely used, if ever. For that reason, some will argue in favor of a "go slow and buy only what you need" approach. Starter tool combos typically don't include tools that modelers often find indispensable once they really get into the hobby, such as rigging tools, plank bending irons, planking clamps, rotary tools, proportional dividers, etc. etc. Since you will be packing stuff into a relatively remote location and are taking on a project that may take you months to complete, you might want to think about how portable your project will be. A fully rigged ship model, even if still incomplete, is a bit fragile and thus a pain to move. For your situation, i.e. a new modeler with no experience and working remotely, I would think seriously about a less demanding project that is better suited for beginning modelers. The new Shipwright Series from Model Shipways fits this description, as do the older kits from Midwest Products that are currently out of production but still available on eBay. BlueJacket Shipcrafters also has a line of beginner kits. These kits typically spell out exactly what tools are needed to finish the kit, which eliminates guess work. Grab a kit well in advance of your planned departure date, study the plans and instructions, and get your tools and materials together before you go -- you don't want to be sitting in the middle of nowhere when you realize that you forget to pack some essential tool or bottle of glue.
 
Be sure to start a build log once you get your project started and include some pics of the view from your tower!
 
Cheers!

Test assembly of a new kit
MK0304 "42ft launch rigged Yawl with a 24-pound carronade (1841).   (in russian documents - rigged as Plymouth`s boat)
Scale 1: 48
 
length - 498.5 mm (hull - 267mm),
width - 80 mm,
height - 351 mm
one 24-pd. carronade
Material - pear
265 parts have already been assembled.
To be continued...
A few photos of the previous stages

Technically it is a ketch as the rudder is behind the mizzen mast.  However back in the day rig names were not as clearly definded as they are today.  That said I think either term could be used.

Technically it is a ketch as the rudder is behind the mizzen mast.  However back in the day rig names were not as clearly definded as they are today.  That said I think either term could be used.

Onlinemetals.com  should have what you are looking for.

Onlinemetals.com  should have what you are looking for.

Onlinemetals.com  should have what you are looking for.

Check your PMs Allan. 

The plans call for about 60 short pieces of wood to place between ribs.
So I set up a little assembly line by making a table saw out of my Dremel drill press.
 

 
Then a little sanding on each one and started gluing.
 

 

Final Hobie Cat photos. 

A good friend's widow has a copy of the Historical American Merchant Marine Survey, (HAMMS) in mint condition and still with original wood crate. It weighs ~100 lbs so shipping is a problem, but she is willing to sell if you can pick up in person.  Kansas City area.  She actually had two copies but I bought the other.  Here are some pix of mine... 

Yes, I've been following her progress on Facebook - https://www.facebook.com/saxonship - fascinating stuff. You can even pay to own one of the iron rivets holding her together.
 
But not - NOT - a Viking ship. She's Anglo-Saxon (well, Anglian, actually).
 
Steven

Purchased this kit used off eBay recently, was looking for a fairly easy kit to introduce my younger brothers-in-law to ship modelling, so they will be helping me out with this build. Am also eager to return to a larger-scale Dory, as my first ever build was the 1:24 Lowell Grand Banks Dory from MS.

Have gathered some essential tools for this build, which will be worked on when my wife and I visit her family.

Have also traced the sails from the plans, which my wife will make. I'm hoping to make this boat water-tight so that it could potentially sail in the pool.

I would assume that "finished" means that you are done working on the model and ready to display it.

I would assume that "finished" means that you are done working on the model and ready to display it.

I would assume that "finished" means that you are done working on the model and ready to display it.

I would assume that "finished" means that you are done working on the model and ready to display it.

I'm about finished with the model I've been working on (Midwest Chesapeake Bay Flattie) and beginning my next one.
 
The Light Melonseed is a small skin-on-frame sailboat designed by Dave Gentry and based on Jersey Melonseed gunning skiffs.

If you want to check it out, here is a link:
http://gentrycustomboats.com/Melonseed.html
 
 
I purchased the plans and intend to build the full-size boat once I have the space to do so. Until then, I will be building a scale model and posting the progress here.
 
This will be my second boat/ship model and my first "scratch" build. The main difference with a kit here is that I need to plan and acquire all the materials and fittings as well as cut out my own frames and stuff like that.
 
This will also be interesting in that it is a skin-on-frame design, so instead of being planked, it will be "skinned".
 
I ordered my lumber from Model Expo. I will be able to match scale dimensions perfectly for most components of the boat by laminating pre-cut strips. I will be doing a good amount of laminating for this model.
 
The lumber.

 
Building a "strongback" that will facilitate accurate framing of the boat.

Don't email Model Expo.  They never seem to respond well.  Call them directly.  I have had good luck that way when getting replacement parts.

I've had this book on the shelf for years, and was finally inspired to make a model of the canoe featured in it.  The book, which is un-dated, comes with fold-out plans and complete instructions. I'm building it in 3/4"=1' scale, from paper and wood.  First. . . the book: 


The canoe has a lugsail, and perhaps a little pretentiously, a forestay and shrouds.  A daggerboard is used, along with a foot-steered rudder.

I can't read or speak German, but fortunately, Google translate makes quick work of the text, so there won't be any issues there . . .
 
The hull is markedly Swede-form, and has slab sides and a flat bottom.  Just five molds/frames are used to build the boat.  Lofting doesn't get much easier than this.  I inked it right on the paper that will be the hull-- the paper is about 1/16" thick, is dense pressed, and has a very polished finish. . . anyone know what this paper is called? (I get it at the local artists' 'scrap' store.)


After cutting out the panels, I glued up the five frames onto the floor panel.  With this dry, I glued the side panels onto the frames, bending the bottom up at the ends so it's edges mates flush with the curve (rocker) of the side-pieces.  Hmmm . . . I'm almost done!