grsjax

After years of building with equipment all over the house which I had to drag out and then store again, I now have a dedicated shop. Yippee! I replaced the original structure which was a shed attached to my barn with the new structure which has heat and air conditioning as well as exhaust fans. I split it into two rooms one of which is for sawing, filing and anything which creates dust. The other room is for metal work and assembly. I also included a fly tying table as I am an avid fly fisherman. I still have plenty of room left over to add tools. I'm thinking of a thickness sander but I don't need it yet.
Richard

I will be listing these on eBay in the next few days.

Hey, there. This post is for those who may be new to card modeling and might be thinking about buying one. Here's some advice: unless you know what to look for, avoid eBay as a source for card models. Why? To answer that, let's look at the following eBay screen capture, showing page one of the results obtained by searching for "paper models," with the search narrowed to aircraft and sorted by newly listed:
 

 
Anything jump out at you? That's right -- nearly all of those models are originating in China. And you know what else they have in common? Every kit coming from China has been illegally scanned and copied from a legitimate kit. In many cases, I know who published the original design. Sadly, it is extremely easy to scan a card model and make copies of it, and a quick survey of eBay shows that nearly 80% of the card models listed there are illegal copies. This is an example of IP infringement. It's theft, and it's wrong.
 
Same as for wooden kits, pirated card model kits are not welcome at MSW. Help support card model designers and publishers by only purchasing models from trusted sources -- think of it as an investment in the future of card modeling. If you have a question about a particular model, feel free to shoot me a PM.
 
Cheers!

I needed some small turnbuckles for a model and ran across a vendor called Harbor Models https://www.harbormodels.com/ .  They mostly sell parts for RC ships but they had just what I needed, 5/16" long working turnbuckles in brass.  
Dimensions:
M=M1
O=8mm (5/16")
L-min=13mm (1/2")
L-Max=18mm (23/32")
D=1.8mm (1/16")
f=.7mm (1/32")
 
Price seems pretty reasonable at $2.75 for one or $26.90 for 10.  Shipping was fast.
 

Full set of various bitts and cleats added, as well as samson post, bowsprit, hawse rims, rudder.
 
The hull and the base were sprayed with matt Lord Nelson lacquer for wooden ship models. Via this I dimmed the glossy look of the danish oil that I have found somewhat disturbing. This shall be the final outer look of her.
 
Well, this is the current status of the project. Lot of work still to do. I still must recall, whether I did not omitted something, that would be problematic to add. Hopefully not  🤔 (yes, I had to make the completely new bowsprit. In the first version I forgot to keep the square profile at the samson post and later totally screwed the piece by foolish varnishing attempt - happens).
 
The project progress I have presented so far covers the whole year of activity. Not too much I know, and from now on the build log will be written in 'real-time' manner, thus even slower. Never mind, I believe it will eventually be finished also with the help from the community here. See you then.
 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 

I haven't put a build up for some while now - life get's in the way at times. But I've now ventured into slightly different craft to my usual style, it was the lines that interested me in this one.
Firstly excuse the really bad photography - absolutely NOT my best subject.
 
 
Everything was nicely packaged and it all seems to be there.
 

The parts fit well with no play and the centre piece was straight.
 

 

Decks also dropped in easily and sat flush to the bulkheads. 
Here however I started to have problems, looking at the fit here you'll notice that the deck projects past the last three bulkheads on the lower deck. The other side is perfect and the centre line matches the centre piece (sorry forgot to photo from above). I had to sort this out at the point of 1st planking.
 
Instructions leave a bit to desire, plenty of photos but so small that detail is poor and without a large magnifying glass those of us with senior eyes have trouble working out what they are attempting to show.
 
Rick 

Finally
 

3 kits for sale.  HMS Endeavour, Whaling brig Kate Cory and Schooner Lynx.
Drop me a PM if you are interested.  Shipping is from zip 96720.
1.  Artesania Latina HMS Endeavour 1:60 scale.  Box is a bit beat up but all there and in good condition.  $150 + shipping
In the last Endeavour pic the sewn sails don't show up very well.
 



 
 
2.  Model Shipways Kate Cory.  White box.  Box is a bit soiled but kit is complete and in good condition.  $150 + shipping



 
3.  Panart Lynx Schooner.  Box worn but contents are complete and in good condition.  $100 + shipping
 

Bluejacket Shipcrafters have a short tutorial in their newsletter archives on using a three-layer silkspan set up for sails.  I tried it for an awning and it worked well for me.  https://myemail.constantcontact.com/News--tips--and-happenings-from-BlueJacket-Shipcrafters--Inc-.html?soid=1105166336677&aid=fVLCRI0uZ9o
 
Steve

I'm not familiar with this wood - had to look it up.  Brazilian Ebony, Swartiza tomentosa vs. the various species of "real" ebony, all from the genus Diospyros.  So we are not talking about a variety of ebony, but something that resembles it.  Very dark brown to nearly black with not so dark streaks.  Newly cut wood is yellow/orange until it oxidizes to the dark color.  It works well.  Dust hazard was listed as unknown - don't take this to mean there isn't one; protect yourself. 
 
The highest quality ebony will be solid black but will still have streaks/pockets of brown that will decrease the yield of solid black wood.  You must protect your self from ebony dust.  The oil in most most tropical hardwoods makes gluing problematic unless you wipe the surface to be glued with acetone just before the glue is applied.

While visiting family in Oregon recently I stopped in at Woodcrafts of Portland.  They had a bin of Brazilian Ebony on sale.  Anyone ever used this wood?
Price was a fraction of Gabon Ebony.  The wood is very hard, fine grained and black.  Not as fine and black as true ebony but very close.  It does have a visible grain when you look closely at it and the color is not as black as ebony.  However after smoothing up a small piece and finishing it with a clear coat it looks good.

While visiting family in Oregon recently I stopped in at Woodcrafts of Portland.  They had a bin of Brazilian Ebony on sale.  Anyone ever used this wood?
Price was a fraction of Gabon Ebony.  The wood is very hard, fine grained and black.  Not as fine and black as true ebony but very close.  It does have a visible grain when you look closely at it and the color is not as black as ebony.  However after smoothing up a small piece and finishing it with a clear coat it looks good.

While visiting family in Oregon recently I stopped in at Woodcrafts of Portland.  They had a bin of Brazilian Ebony on sale.  Anyone ever used this wood?
Price was a fraction of Gabon Ebony.  The wood is very hard, fine grained and black.  Not as fine and black as true ebony but very close.  It does have a visible grain when you look closely at it and the color is not as black as ebony.  However after smoothing up a small piece and finishing it with a clear coat it looks good.

I use a Dremel with Flex shaft and foot control and a rechargeable Dremel and needle files. I find you need all dependent on situation.

I offer a contrary opinion.  Since I enjoy sidetracking threads, this advice is worth exactly what you paid for it.  😜
 
Don’t buy a rotary tool!  Instead buy a decent set of needle files.  These rotary tools can be too aggressive when used on fragile materials. If used with any sort of heavy tool, the mass rotating at high speed begins to take charge.   If you don’t have a light touch and a sure hand, you’re likely to wind up with a picture window instead of a porthole!
 
I have had a Sears Craftsman rotary tool that is 50 years old.  It is great for use on metal but way too aggressive for use on thin wood.  I recently bought a Proxxon pen sized engraver that is powered by a separate 12v power supply.   With a small round point engraving tool, it works well on model scale materials.
 
Roger

This is two generations after I started all this and I have no hands on experience  with kits in this series,   ( I did start with the old Model Shipways  kits - yellow box  - carved Basswood hulls.)
but if you have little or no experience with hardwood woodworking - especially at scale level - (plastic kits as a lead-in probably only helps with painting at scale - and given the kits that you express an interest in - there will be little to no painting with the wood)  -  you might consider a careful and sure footed entry into all this.
 
https://modelexpo-online.com/Model-Shipways-Lowell-Grand-Banks-Dory-with-Tools-124-Scale-Skill-Level-I-of-the-Shipwright-Learning-Series_p_3959.html
 
A boat is certainly not as sexy as a first rate  or a cutter even  -  but even cutters had boats -  understanding boats is a valuable skill/knowledge base  and the actual work will give you enough of a taste to know if this is something that you really want to plunge into without investing a house payment.
 
Reading:   For Beginners -- A Cautionary Tale    would be time well spent.
 

Hi All : pleas find attached pictures of several clamps that I made to deal with particular planking reaches.

I am one of the height challenged at 5'7".  I find a bench height of 30" works well for sitting and one 36" for standing.  Your mileage may vary.

I am one of the height challenged at 5'7".  I find a bench height of 30" works well for sitting and one 36" for standing.  Your mileage may vary.

I am one of the height challenged at 5'7".  I find a bench height of 30" works well for sitting and one 36" for standing.  Your mileage may vary.

I'm am height challenged at 5' 6" and am getting old and have back issues bending over a bench for any length of time 😀.
 
My garage already had 2 large fixed benches when we bought the house, so that was good. However as I move towards retirement, I am building new benches. My plan is to 
Make a few small free standing benches (with storage underneath). This will allow for flexibility, especially when we move to a smaller home. Fairly low and not too deep. I'm expecting to sit while working a lot more. Build some "blocks" as needed to raise tools to a height that works - after using for a time.  Buy a good height adjustable stool. I already built a small wheeled "cart" for my Byrnes saw, this enables me to move it out of the way when not needed. I will do the same for the thickness sander when it's purchased. 
 
My 2 cents, especially since everyone's work area is so personal. 
 
 
We do. Recommended reading "A Shed of One's Own" by Marcus Berkmann.

Well, I’m finally done with the build.  I have improved my skills and learned some additional things building this boat.  Planking of the aft end is definitely a challenge for a beginner builder.  I was very glad I had had the planking experience from building the MS 18th Century Long Boat. 

Besides the issues that we all have had with this new kit, I will get on my soap box again, Model Shipways needs to add a more detail schematic of this boat to include one of how the rigging is laid out, such as the one with the Model Shipways 18th Century Long Boat.  The Long Boat plans and instructions by Chuck Passaro are fantastic for a novice. 
 

In regard to the rigging, I wish I would have done a single loop & knot on the lashings to make an eye in the rigging.  I tried to do a double loop, like a double clove hitch, and it did not look good.  Also, I like it with a much finer line to do the lashing.
 

Now on to my next build, I’m trying to decide between the Phantom New Your Pilot Boat, which is a solid hull, and the Armed Virginia Sloop, which is Plank on Bulkhead, both by Model Shipways.  I have both and I had previous started the Phantom but shortly into shaping the solid hull, I determined that it had been miss-machined.  Model Expo sent me a new hull and it looks better. 
I’m still a little intimidated by finishing a solid hull, I’ve never been good a carving or shaping small wood.  Even in Boy Scouts, I was terrible at whittling.  I have to take care of some other work for the next two weeks so I have time to decide which I start first.
 

You might want to back track a bit and get the Model shipways Lowell Dory Kit as a place to start.  It is the first model in their Ship Wright series and guides you step by step thorough the process.  The Norwegian Pram is the next in the series.  It will take you further along the path to mastering wooden model building. 

You might want to back track a bit and get the Model shipways Lowell Dory Kit as a place to start.  It is the first model in their Ship Wright series and guides you step by step thorough the process.  The Norwegian Pram is the next in the series.  It will take you further along the path to mastering wooden model building. 

The last piece added, the flag.
 
It's been a little over a year in the making, and now it is finished! My sloop from Roslagen.
 
It started in part as a project to hone my skills in clinker builds, to enable me to build the medieval long-ship. Along the way I have read a lot about these ships and as I learned more I have become more fascinated and interested. The research part of the build has definitely been one of the more rewarding aspects.
 
I also feel like I have learned a lot as a model builder during this project. Some of the choices I made early on would not be the same today. Primarily, I would not have made the hull from lime wood. I would have used something harder.