iMustBeCrazy

On 3/5/2024 at 6:02 AM, dcicero said:

The subject is very interesting!

It is indeed.

Dan, here's a few more clues:

https://www.arbeitskreis-historischer-schiffbau.de/mitglieder/modelle/roemerschiff-victoria/

https://roemerschiffe.de/victoria/

Looking at the last shot I see the midships moulds look to be arcs and the other moulds use the same arc rotated.

Taking the above and adding it to This:

Gives:

Certainly not 100% right but perhaps 90%? It doesn't include the bow or stern either.

3 hours ago, Gregory said:

I straightened out heavier curve of the upper side panels.  They seem out of place place to me.

For me, I think a tighter radius works. I also think it would look better if the spacing between the columns and adjacent panels was evened out but that's probably just me.

2 hours ago, Gregory said:

Should the plain of those features follow that curve all the way up?  Now that you mention it, the Campbell drawings seem to reflect that to some extent

I suspect that the verticals were indeed vertical and that the horizontals followed the curve of the deck (but were actually straight lines themselves) except perhaps at the head. This would make the panels parallelograms (except the outside ones and perhaps the middle ones).

The five columns (blue) were probably proud of the 'wall'.

But there's also a good chance I'm wrong.

2 hours ago, Gregory said:

The panel beveling is a real challenge at these scales.

The standard answer is 'make a jig', it may take twice as long but it will give better results.

2 hours ago, theoracle09 said:

Endurance model I came across yesterday

A screenshot:

34 minutes ago, clearway said:

it will be a goose neck fitting - there is a band around the mast

Next two counter timbers done. Also some planking, a wale, the counter and stern roughly mocked up. I think the counter is going to need a slight curve on the sides.

1 hour ago, theoracle09 said:

I'm afraid I don't know what you mean, Craig?

Brain fade.

2' tall in the middle, 4' x 4' square, 2 windows each side, hinged centre panel in the roof either side. Azimuth compass a couple of feet forward of it (not shown in this pic), binnacle forward of that.

A tiny update representing a lot of head bashing.

The inner pair of counter timbers:

I had to remove 'deck beam' 18 to get them in, all six will be attached to it before being installed as an assembly.

I thought I had the outer counter timbers worked out (several times) but I think I'll have to give up and do them in multiple pieces like Chuck did Cheerful.

1 hour ago, theoracle09 said:

but can't come up with something I move forward with

I think this is all I've got. The photo seems to confirm the sketch in that it shows the top glass is very steep (behind the guy's legs on the right).

3 hours ago, Greg Davis said:

The more I think about it

Greg, A few more thoughts,

No glue, just press fit. Or at worst a tiny dab of PVA on exposed surfaces that can be chiselled off later.

1/4" dowel stepping down at the ends. Perhaps in segments with couplers, slide the coupler along and the dowel is 'cut'. You could cut the disks with side cutters/wire cutters to remove them.

Some thin C.A. into the end grains before boring should give a smoother hole.

1 hour ago, Greg Davis said:

I will slice off a 3mm disk from each form to sit inside each hoop.

I haven't fully thought this out but perhaps bore out these disks to take a shaft for alignment? Then your supports could support the shaft and be standardised, some fixed to a base some moveable to wherever you're working.

26 minutes ago, Tony Hunt said:

Looking really good Craig! The hull looks nice and fair.

Thanks Tony. Biggest worry at the moment (apart from everything else) is the MDF bulwarks, I have to fair one side unsupported so that I can plank or line them so they are supported to fair the other 🤷‍♂️

Some progress, in a forwards direction

Build board built, 'deck beams' bent, everything glued up to and inc the 'deck beams'.

Wale being test fitted (again), waterway being worked out (they're next I think).

After the waterways it'll have to be the counter timbers, that will be fun.

First issue with the drawings, moulds 2 and 4 have the labels swapped, 2 should be 4 and 4 should be 2.

23 minutes ago, oakheart said:

I assume they printout on A4 paper?

Hopefully

Initial drawings (Ver 1.0) added to post #1.

9 minutes ago, oakheart said:

Is it MDF ?

Are they blocks glued together?

Yes and yes.

I used 9mm mdf plus a piece of 3mm. Base is 100x50 big enough to be useful small enough to be handy. The top bits are 25x40 with the right one notched to allow clamping a stop. Everything is just glued in place.

Make sure the corners where they meet the saw are square. Glue the left block first and allow the dry then use a straight edge (ruler) and scribe the cut line. Glue the right block using the saw as a spacer and a straight edge to align the blocks, let dry. Glue the 3mm guide and let dry.

Cut the guide slot in the 3mm piece. Done. The only things that matter are the squareness of the slots (two sides/corners of each block and the guide) and the alignment of the two blocks. You could do the guide in two pieces using the straight edge to align the left side and the saw the right.

4 hours ago, oakheart said:

Looks like I need to make a cutting guide like you have.

And here we have the CrazyCutter MkII

2 hours ago, oakheart said:

in fact thinking about it, it should work either way round

Looking closely at my 'old worn out' razor saw it's actually a pull saw but I like it better as a push saw. 😕

8 hours ago, oakheart said:

I can't decide which wood to use on mine.

A mixture, or some stained some not? Part of the idea is to break up the 'sameness' of the decking.

7 hours ago, oakheart said:

Question for Craig

Tim, I use a cutting guide (one sided mitre box) and a razor saw for the cross cut then mostly a chisel blade and a file to remove and clean up the rest.

Instead of the chisel blade you could also use the razor saw lying on a spacer.

I really should remake the cutting guide with the guide piece twice as deep and twice as high (it's currently 12mm deep and 6mm high).

I've finished mine for now, had a couple of issues related to using thicker wood than I had drawn, I should have updated the drawing then I would have picked up the issues.

Well that's done for now, I'll decide whether to leave doors/lids open when I actually fit it.

Sorry about the delays.

Basically I test fitted a wale and found that a straight plank just wouldn't work, I finally figured that the finer bow messed things up (compared to Cheerful) and that a curve was needed forward.

I did that and it fits nicely but I guess the rest of the planking will need similar. I also marked the wales on the drawings but when I made two new moulds the wale didn't quite line up with the marks, probably something to do with the fairing but the stem midships and transom are all good

with the wale just laying without any coercion. More on the wale when I get around to planking.

Now, Tim is building Speedy, a descendant of Lapwing and has distracted me (see the discussion in his log) so I've started building mine:

Just the coaming and doors for the moment, I forgot the obligatory 1 cent coin but the doors are about 15mm high and awaiting the glue to dry before sanding.

36 minutes ago, oakheart said:

I still don't understand having the stairs at right angles to the doors, the access is difficult enough anyway.

The hull is quite narrow there, most efficient use of space?

41 minutes ago, oakheart said:

I hope you have written this all up on your Lapwing build log!

Give me an hour.

1 hour ago, oakheart said:

I very pleased with the mini machine

You should be, and I'm sure you will find it indispensable.

Meanwhile there's this Vigilant drawing which shows that the companionway may well have sat on the coaming.

But after playing around and cutting some wood I've nearly decided the companionway was actually a solid block of wood with the doors (badly) painted on