cog

Clever, Jesse. That will look a lot better than the cast part

After doing a bit of net researching on dry transfer usage,  I decided to have a go at the draft markings that are attached on the bow and stern, these are on a strip with a backing plate,  I cut one of the markings from the strip attached some tape top and bottom to hold in place then used a paint brush handle to burnish the transfer,  to my supprise they went on very easy with very little pressure and look superb.
 
Here are a few pics including a rather radical one showing the head on look of the bow.
 
OC.

Hi Elijah
 
Cant hit the Like button so many times I should, Well Done so far. Astonishing progress you made the last months!
 
Regards
Gerhard

The aft control tower is similar to the front one, just a little smaller and the only real addition is the control arms that go the end covers. A simple fabrication.
 
You can see the little fly wheel I have used to create rivet lines.
 
The tower it sits on has gun controllers which I will add later, the sum total of the parts don't seem to add up to much, and I have added rivet lines throughout and I have added handrails, replaced the support struts in white card and extra rails on op that are not mentioned by tamiya. About a days work.
 
Final shots of where she sits on the ship

The best tools are simple, very fitting to make a wooden tool for a boat/ship forum Thanks for sharing, very much appreciated

Than you should use an AIRdryer 

Every build will teach you something about the type of ship and something about their builders, or you must be following the instructions like a puppet ... Haven't seen that in your log yet ...

Than you should use an AIRdryer 

Smooth, Bob. It looks like a floor ready to be waxed ...

Than you should use an AIRdryer 

Thanks for looking in Doc, Ron, Carl and Mark, and for the many likes.
 
Ron, I will have a poke around the menus to see what I can do with materials.  I am doing this following a Tutorial so I don't want to get too far ahead of myself.  I am only a couple of hours (hangovers allowing) to starting that process but it can't do much harm 'exploring" - I hope
 
cheers
 
Pat

I could almost feel your frustration with that railing Nils. It's so maddening to bend a piece of wood just to have it kink when your about 2 degrees from success. I can feel myself getting tense just thinking about it.
 
Your ship is looking terrific.
 
Gary

Hey CH, I had to look back in my notes to find this one. The shrouds(standing rigging) is 0,8mm, the running rigging is 0,5mm and the lanyards are 0,25mm. Hope that helps. If you or Mrs. CH have sewing, knitting or crochet thread, or know someone who does, here are the thread sizes: 0,8mm = size 3 / 0,5mm = size 10 / 0,25mm = size 30. I use these exclusively, mostly since my other hobby is fine thread crochet. Six cord mercerized is a must. These can all be acquired on eBay or Etsy for pretty cheap. A DMC cordonnet special size 30 has 216yds so it goes a long way. Sorry Chuck, don't mean to step on your toes.

Well, would you look at that, now. I'd been all over the site but never thought to click on the actual blocks. Thank you, sir. Do you have an alert set up for your name or something? I thought of pming you but didn't want to waste your time with such a newbie question. An order will be forthcoming.

If you click on each size of my Syren blocks it will tell you which size rope is best for those sizes of blocks.

Thanks for all your comments and likes
 
Just a quick update to show i am still building
Second upper and lower planking fitted and partially sanded

 

Michael,
 
It is not up to me to approve, I can merely give my thoughts/insights on the matter at hand, and hope those may be of use to you. I am very impressed with the way you have been tackling challenges.

Nice fix on the deck and side, Michael.
 
Question on the area you removed. You cut at straight angles, I would have expected angled cuts (45 .. 72.5 deg), as it should be easier to fit and the join would be easier to hide.

Stunning, and that's half of it. How much more can you add ... must be crowded when you're finished that!!

Thanks for the comments and the "likes".
 
She'll be coming off the jig as soon as the last coaming is set into place and before the rest of the deck planking.   I found some nice 1/4" mahogany and i"ll make a cradle that will hopefully do her justice and not hide her lines.   I gave serious thought to pedestals but they just seem flimsy.  i have one ship on pedestals and I get nervous anytime I have to move it.
 
The longer I wait, the more problems I'll have once I begin removing the jig so time to bite the bullet and get her done.
 
Bear with me on this....  

Thanks, gentlemen !
 
The last three weeks I was barely home for two or three days in a row, just too much business travels - good for the business, but not so good for the private life, including hobbies. I still managed to squeeze-in a couple of hours in the workshop. This is needed from time to time to relax
 
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As indicated at the beginning, the machine will be provided with a fifth axis for rotary milling and dividing operations. Some years ago, I fashioned a geared dividing head from an old Lorch, Schmidt & Co. grinding spindle. This mounts onto the cross-slide of a 6 mm lathe, such as the one used in the milling machine.
 

Geared dividing head constructed some years ago
 
These grinding spindles were meant to be bolted down onto the cross-slide using the latern for the turning bits. While this reduced the number of bits and pieces to be provided for the lathe and to be taken care of, it seems to be a rather strange economy. In the present circumstances this method of bolting is also not very satisfactory, as the angle of the spindle, as well its position in the T-slot have to be adjusted at the same time. Too many degrees of freedom.
 

Elements of the holding-down bolt
 
Therefore, a mounting bolt was fashioned from a normal M6 screw with a hexagonal head. These fit perfectly into the T-slots, but their heads have to turned thinner. Over the bolt a sleeve with an internal M6 thread screws down, thus keeping the bolt in place.
 

Geared dividing head in place
 
Now, the dividing head can be rotated around the bolt without movement up and down in the T-slot. The dividing head is clamped with an standard M6 cap-nut (a nice polished stainless steel one though) and a large washer. The latter also is a commercial stamped product that was cleaned up on the lathe and given a nice polish for aesthetics sake.
 

Geared dividing head in place
 
To be continued ...

Pontos has a lot of assumptions, mainly that you are an expert on the ship that your are building and know what goes where and have extensive research materials at hand. Then they leave bits out that one would think would be naturally included. That being said their products are first class.
 
I love this build and look forward to seeing you cover the deck in aircraft!

Stunning, and that's half of it. How much more can you add ... must be crowded when you're finished that!!

The best tools are simple, very fitting to make a wooden tool for a boat/ship forum Thanks for sharing, very much appreciated

The best tools are simple, very fitting to make a wooden tool for a boat/ship forum Thanks for sharing, very much appreciated