cog

Stunning, and that's half of it. How much more can you add ... must be crowded when you're finished that!!

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 186 – Cheeks/Hounds and Bibbs
 
I mentioned in the last post that I was replacing the first main mast that was shown in some earlier photos.  Here is the replacement ready for banding.
 

 
The first mainmast was developmental as far as method is concerned, the second my main process example photo subject, and the mizzen will be the final proof of practice.  In the meantime I have been pushing ahead with the foremast in the hope that it will measure up and be usable.  If not I'll have another practice subject.
 
With the foremast fully banded, other features are being added.  The terms "hounds" and "cheeks" seem to be used interchangeably in my sources to describe the squared sections that supported the cross trees of the top.  The bibbs are the forward extensions of these, knees if you will, that support the forward end of the top.  The first picture shows these installed on the foremast, before describing the steps. 
 

 
The supporting upper surface will be angled and flattened later to support the top in a horizontal position on the raked mast.
 
If my simplified five piece model design for a made mast had its benefits, the price for that was paid in the shaping of the hound pieces.  In practice these were fayed usually against flats on the central spindle and extended above the hounds as part of the mast head, or doubling.  Since my spindle was made the size of the head and the mast below shaped round, the side hounds had to be fitted to the round tapered mast.  The two pieces are shown below during fitting.
 

 
To make these, a hole was bored through a block of wood that was then tapered around the bore and separated into two pieces.  The bores were then enlarged by filing/sanding to match the taper of the round mast.  In the next picture these are being glued to the mast.
 

 
The next picture shows the port bibb installed and the joint for the other being pared.
 

 
Both joints were cut first on the hounds and the bibbs cut to fit, with some adjustments to the hounds during the process as shown.  The next picture shows that bib being glued
 

 
After gluing, the sides were filed flat and the bolts added.  There are three through the edges of each bibb and eight securing the hounds to the mast.  These are black monofilament secured with CA.
 
Bands are sometimes shown around the lower end of the hounds.  I don't see how heat shrunk bands could possibly have been fitted with the hounds in place or what purpose they would serve vs. bolts.  I suppose shaped bands could be slid on before the hounds were installed then driven up over the bottom ends.  On the other hand, such bands under the hounds could be fitted and of benefit.  I'll save this question for the next model.
 
Next, the chafing battens.
 
Ed

Lamination is the way to go,  The rail looks great.
 
Bob

Good solution. This is an old model airplane trick for making rounded wing tips and control surfaces. When one is thinking ships sometimes different techniques fade into the background. 

Hi Nils - either the pins are very big or the rail is very small. It looks great.

Thank you very much Carl and Michael,
 
and all the "likes"...
 
Carl,
the etched stair sides and the steps are only folded and you`re right, afterwards (after priming and painting) glue into place with a drop of CA
 
Michael,
right, I agree, although I have highest respect for the skills of those professional builders work in much earlier days
 
Nils
 
 
Here is a little update .......
on the making of the aft handrail portion in place where the railing performs the rounded bend. I tried several times two flat bend the mahagony handrail by wetting and soaking, with and without heat, etc, very frustrating and without success. Then came the idea not to flat-bend over the 1,5 mm wide side, but to flat-bend and laminate 3 single 0,5 mm thick strips with CA and with help of a little jig, Sigh of relief, it worked out well. Only have to mount and carefully sand down to the required flatness
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

Thanks guys, for the likes and the kind comments.
Still to be added are ladders, more radar and towers, gun control directors, three HF antennae, a half dozen or more 20mm guns, and various bits and pieces.
I added another 25% of it since those last photos and am going to try and finish it today and tomorrow.
 
Soon, I am going to paint the hull and try to figure out the wooden deck. There are a lot of photo etch pieces that go on the deck but very little information on the "plans". As good as this Pontos set is, the instructions are just horrible. Parts mis-numbered, details left out, etc.  A lot of wasted time trying to figure out how everything is supposed to go together. In the long run, the set is worth it regardless of the effort required overcoming their shoddy plans.

Right then folk you would never call me impatient   but I decided to try a new stratergy with my lower hull  flat coat,  I have some acrylic in a bottle that I hav ebeen using on my upper hull, anyway I decided to mask off sections of the hull starting with a section under the rear hull around the props, I made a box section with tape then mixed my normal skimmed milk thickness flat coat, and started to brush it on in thin layers drying with a hairdryer between each.
About 4 layers and it had a nice flat finish and was touch dry due to the heat from the hairdryer.
 
Next I masked off a narrow strip along and under the boot line, and proceeded to apply the top coat with my brush in the same manner as the bottom, again with drying in between each coat, again about 4 layers then I removed the tape and the flat finish was quite good.
The idea is to mask off another line tomorrow lower down and carry on in the same manner till the side of the lower hull is flat laquared,  then the main bottom will be done but that is a more controled area and not seen - so less worry about its smooth flat finish.
 
Well thats what I was doing today folks
 
OC.

Right folks - I carried on with flattening the lower hull so after the use of a hammer and an Iron LOL,  no seriously  I found a slightly larger flatter paintbrush in my paint box, I softened it with washing detergent and made up some more diluted acrylic top coat, got quite a thin watery consistancy and with smooth even strokes I managed to get the whole lower hull covered.
I continued putting about 5 layers on with hairdrying between each coat, its covered well and only left faint brush marks that will easily be buffed out with gentle action from a sponge/cloth.
 
I am Over the moon to have get to this stage - where I can now start building the sub assemlies on the deck
Here are a few pics folks
 
OC

Slow but steady will do it Mark - some nice progress there.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Hi Mark
 
Marvellous work. I reckon your patience, confidence and adept use of the Death Star are definitely paying off nicely.
 
Well done. I also agree with Michael about the removal of the large sheet...but, then again, I'm pretty impatient.
 
All in good time, I'm sure.
 
All the best.
 
Patrick

Looks great Mark, but I'm still waiting for that large sheet to be removed.
 
Michael

Thanks for the "likes", the comments, and the discussion.  
 
Things have been running, shall we say, dead dog slow here lately in the shipyard.  I'm putting the hours in but seems like nothing gets finished.     Probably normal then at this  stage.
 
The center line furniture aft of the main mast is done except for the pantry which is on hold.  No point in blocking access at this point.  Also the two crew ladderways forward of the main mast are done.  The pic shows the capstan but it's only set into place at this point so it doesn't get misplaced or damaged.  The crossbeam for the pinrail forward of the main mast has  been safely tucked away so it doesn't get damaged.  I'm moving forward on the deck to the remaining hatchways.   After the planking the rest of the deck and doing the ceiling, I'll install what I have ready and make the pumps (do over!!!) and the fireplaces.
 
Part of the bog that's slowing things down is taking measurements for the planking and transferring them to the drawings I'm making for the laser.  
 
I do find myself being happier with my output as I think I'm getting better at joinery and even more patient with fitting things than I was before.  After a couple of "by your leave, sir" hassles, I found I need to measure 3 times before transferring any measurement to the wood.  A bit of confidence here and there goes a long ways.  
 
Here's the pic and as always, comments, critiques, and discussion are welcome.
 

Whatever you are doing and however you are learning to do it, the finished result speaks loud and clear that you are doing it right!
 
Learning about the ships, the people who built them and the people who crewed them, in my opinion, is just as fascinating as building the ships.

And very nice it is too

Maybe about half way finished with the control tower. It's a little slow going due to the small, tedious parts and because the holiday season brings on many other tasks unrelated to modeling. 
 

 

You can change the color of the render, by either:
 
1. Actually change the color of the lines in an object, such as the cannon.
 
2. Change the material the object is "made" from, such as changing the cannon to Brass, and the carriage to Wood.
 
Both are simple and quick.

Well, a bit more practice and some progress with my TurboCAD 3D project.  Here are a few basic renders of the progress I have made to date.  Hopefully within a couple of weeks I'll be able to show a couple of advanced renders.  Things will slow for the next few days as my younger boy is getting married this Saturday and I hope to send him on his honeymoon with a 'hangover' - I know, I'll be in trouble with the daughter-in-law
 
cheers
 
Pat
 
     

Hi Grant
 
Graphics look great mate and are a very nice touch, bit of a romantic really aren't you.
 
The stand looks functional and will not detract from the boat if used in your final display, simple yet very effective.
 
I'll also wish you a Very Happy Birthday my friend, still a young pup at 56.
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie

The best tools are simple, very fitting to make a wooden tool for a boat/ship forum Thanks for sharing, very much appreciated

The best tools are simple, very fitting to make a wooden tool for a boat/ship forum Thanks for sharing, very much appreciated

The best tools are simple, very fitting to make a wooden tool for a boat/ship forum Thanks for sharing, very much appreciated

Hello Michael,
 
You are so inventive.  What a great wooden version of your third hand tool.  I'll be buying dowel soon.  Still - don't take me off your growing wait list for the original.
 
Your restoration is coming along beautifully.  Keep up the great work.
 
Gary

Marvellous details those stairs. Glued them I  reccon ...

The best tools are simple, very fitting to make a wooden tool for a boat/ship forum Thanks for sharing, very much appreciated