capnharv2

I'm back at it after a break. My work schedule is still making it difficult for me to find time to build. 
  I bought some mini brushes to paint the design. I'm going to "fine tune" the top star w more detail. 
 I was "afraid" of this part, but thank's to a Dremel, life is good?  .015x.030  styrene was a little tricky, I just used clamps and did and inch or so at a time, the curves were a little tricky but it worked. More to come!

The last two 150mm guns were a little different to the other four as they were fitted with Rangefinders, so I made them separately to avoid confusing the parts. Here are the parts for them in various stages of assembly :

 
The two guns ready for the barrels :

 
  Danny

Moving forward on the aft lower deck, I've now completed the next set of partitions. These are the the second of the three transverse portions (and it's attached upper deck beam) and two fore and aft partitions which create what the plans refer to as the captain's bed place and the mate's cabin. I also did the interior hull planking in this area.
 
All of the partitions were made up from boxwood strip, as was the hull planking. The doors were made from boxwood strip, with cut off  round head brass pins for handles and blackened brass hinges from a PE set in my stash. As always, everything was finished with Wipe-on Poly.
 
My next work will be to finish the work on the aft lower deck and to add the remaining deck beams for the upper deck above the lower deck area.
 
Bob

Thanks, druxey.
 
When I started working this morning, I noticed that where I left off last night shows just how much the hooked scarphs interlock. I was initially skeptical that those relatively small hooks would make a difference, but modeling the joint has shown me the exceptional strength this joint has created.
 
Mark

Hello Friends.
I bring myself regrets that my work so strongly dragged on, but I didn't put the end to the work yet.
I still hope that I will be able to finish.
And recently I received the order for guns and I was so delighted that I am simply obliged to tell about this master and to show his work.
A little advertizing is only a small part that I can make that once again.
This is Dmitry Shevelev . We can see his works at the Russian forum as the ship modeller, or even met him in the championships on NAVIGA in Europe.
 
I will a little tell that it does cast models of white metal, completely covers them with copper and covers in black color.
I can't precisely express as it will be in English, but work is performed in due form. These are 100% a ready product, about $2,5 per gun.
You can specify all details, having written to it on mail on English language. His email is modelist69@yandex.ru
There is a possibility of delivery to other countries by means of EMS Russian the Post.
 
Thnks for photos by Piter

Thanks, John, your comment means a great deal to me. 
 
Work proceeds on the port wales, using the old clamps at midships to grab from below where the deck is too high relative to the wale for a clamp from above. The second photo shows hanging the clamps on the starboard side to keep them level when tightening.
 
And a view of both wales from the bow, although the lower two strakes are not yet installed and the battens are not yet removed.
 
Mark

Well, it happened.
I made my lower cill (sill) and installed both upper and lower permanently.
Let the glue dry and set.
Shaped the next set of frames in readiness as they reach into the upper gunport opening (similarly to the lower opening) so when installed they will add support.
Then I carefully, very light strokes, sawed the frames for the upper gunport.
Cut through the first timber with out incident... the toptimbers snapped off with the next cut.
So, they are glued on and need to set before I attempt anything more.
I was going to take it to our club meeting tomorrow but I feel it is too delicate... particularly with the ice and more snow on it's way tomorrow.
Regardless, I am looking forward to the rope walk demo.
I will take it to the next meeting at Lee Valley Tools in Niagara Falls next month.
 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 266 – Fore Lower Topsail Yard Continued
 
Apart from the braces that will be installed later, the last items of rigging on the lower topsail yards were the buntlines.  There are two on each side.  In the absence of sails these are stopped at the buntline blocks on top of the yard as shown in the first picture.
 

 
Buntlines are normally passed through blocks on the underside of the tops or crosstrees at the head of their associated mast, but with the addition of the second topsail yard, the lower topsail buntlines are rigged through double blocks seized to the forward topsail shrouds as shown.  The starboard side is shown in the next picture.
 

 
From these double blocks the lines run down through fairlead holes in the top, inside the shrouds, through the fairleads on the #2 shrouds, and are belayed on the main pin rail on each side.  These lines may be seen passing vertically down from the shroud blocks through the top in the next picture.
 

 
The lower ends of these lines may be seen belayed at the side in the next picture.
 

 
You may note that in these pictures the shroud lanyards have been re-wrapped above the deadeyes.  These were unwound earlier to re-tension the shrouds and backstays as mentioned in an earlier post.  The running rigging of the two lower yards has also been tensioned, secured at the pins with some dilute glue and the excess line clipped off.  The clutter of these unsecured lines on the deck and above was becoming an unsightly nuisance, so it was time to get everything neatly secured.  The next picture shows the forward deck cleared of excess rope.
 

 
One of the next steps will be to make and add rope coils at the belaying points.  The lower yard tacks and lazy tacks are still only temporarily belayed until the sheets are rigged later.
 
 
Ed

Prototyping the keel parts.  These are all in cherry.  I have laser cut the false keel, keel, and rising wood.  They have holes in them for the screws that will hold it to the baseboard which are also laser cut.  Note the hex holes for the captive nuts laser cut into the rising wood.  The rising wood is also pre-notched to position the frames.  One of my test frames is being tested for its fit and it all seems good.  All of the layers for the keel assembly were laser cut somewhat wider than needed so there would be plenty of meat left on the parts.  This extra meat will allow someone to vigorously sand the laser char from the edges AFTER assembly without worrying that you will sand too much off which would then cause a problem.  You can get these pieces nice and clean as you can see by the keel that I finished.
 

 
I havent cut the rabbet yet but that is coming next.  I am laser cutting a tool that will hopefully help make creating the rabbet a lot easier.  I am going to build this one in Cherry.  Now that all of the notches and holes have been squared away as far as drafting is concerned...I can move forward with drafting the remaining 18 frames.  That will be a slow process.
 
Chuck

I have started the cross section model...mostly drafting.  But I figured I would start a log.  I am waiting on arrival of a variety of machine screws and nuts to finish drafting the keel parts.  They will be set up in the usual fashion you folks have seen but I will post that once its ready.  Here is the overall plan I am working from. Hopefully it will look like this once done...planked on one side and open framed on the other.
 

I have started drafting the frames.   There will be some bent frames with curved top timbers but this is just a plain straight one.
 
Here are the laser cut pieces.....but you will not build the frame with the parts laid out like this.
 

Because the laser cuts on an angle,  it is best to strategically flip certain parts to get the tightest fit possible.  You wont get one side with a large gap which is typical.  Therefore no sanding of the char is needed ...nor should you attempt to sand the char from the edges of all joints that fit together.  They will fit perfectly as is.  The only drawback is that you will see the seam which in some instances was not the case as they werent tarred.  But thats OK....
 
So I flipped them as I show in the photo below....flip parts "C" and "D" for the best fit possible.  Note the dirty side on the flipped parts.
 

There is no need to build each frame on top of a plan trying to get the frame to come out the correct shape.  I have created some tabbed guides which make it very easy.  I built five of these frames and they all came out the same...Each one took just a few minutes.  I used titebond on the seams.  Just take care not to glue the guides to the frame.  See below.  All glued up.
 

 
Then the guide tabs are cut free leaving the frame strong and ready for sanding.  I sanded every edge to remove the char except for the notch in the bottom chock which stays unsanded.  It needs to be a perfect press fit into notches I created in the rising wood...which I will show later.  But the finished frame all sanded up up looks like the one below.  The top cross bar is added for strength and also to help register all of the frames once they are glued onto the keel.  That is what those two notches on the cross bar are for.  After I draft more frames it will make more sense.
 

 
Chuck
 

Thanks for the compliments once again John, Pat, Reg and Mark.
 
There are two Arado 196 Floatplanes on Bismarck. These took me three days to make. Once AGAIN the Instructions were pretty woeful - luckily I found a couple of good pics of the "real thing" online. Here's the best one :

 
The parts for both planes :

 
Fitting the engine cowling edge piece :

 
The major pieces of the fuselage, wings and tail rolled, folded and glued :

 
The parts for the floats :

 
And some pics of the finished planes. The float supports were not easy to cut and fit :




 
  Danny

Svein - So now you make me come clean . I am still working on the Treenailing and copper plating. I did not need any of these parts at this time. But I have slowly been purchasing from Chuck all the blocks, Deadeyes, Harts, Rigging Line, Wheel, & Gratings. I think I have spent as much as I gave to MS for the original kit. But hey what else would I spend it on? Wine, Women & Song? Well the admiral says no women, I don't drink, and you don't want to hear me try to carry a note. So here I am. 
 
PS Don't tell the admiral but I think I have retired. I got laid off from my most recent job a couple weeks ago. And I decided to not look for another job. The Admiral is still adjusting. Mum's the word!

I used a spot of CA and glued the flat end down on the carronades so you have a flat area to mount to the sleds.  I see absolutely no reason to worry about the hole. I guess you could put some 28 gauge wire through but why? You would never see it. How do you like those deadeyes?

A couple images of the new boats and their davits.
Rob

Thanks for the likes and the comments everyone.
 
Big day today... the rings came in and so did the guns from Chuck.  I ordered 24 of the appropriate size for the 8 pdrs and also ordered the 6 pdrs.   Yes, they're for an English ship but given the actual size and normal viewing length, I think they'll work perfectly.  Here's a couple of pics.   I will have to make quions now that I know the proper dimensions for them.  This should be a lot of fun.  Time go dig out the Birchwood-Casey and start blackening everything.  
 
I do plan on blackening and fitting the guns (temporarily) to the carriages but not actually installing the barrels until the upper deck and the channels and iron work for the shrouds are in place.  I'll put the carriages in place and lock them down with glue and a "safety" post through the deck.  Having a cannon and/or carriage come loos after the deck above it is in place is not fun in my book.  Been there, done that, built my vocabulary in an ungentlemanly way.
 

Your prototype carriage looks great, Mark, I'm sure you'll pick up speed in no time at all once you start assembling the others.  I bet you're thankful that you chose to build a frigate rather than a hundred-gun three-decker now that you're at this stage of the build 

I've had a couple of weeks off from Sirius and the cutter over Christmas under orders from her who must be obeyed, she suggested I made something for her mother as she is more into the boats that I'm making than the wife, in fact she has my old cutty Sark on her mantelpiece, I found on eBay a constructo kit for a Thames steam barge, the model had already been started and all the frames etc were missing but for £10 I thought what the hell
As we live in Cookham which some of you may know (Druxey does) we are on the side of the Thames so I thought this wold be perfect for her, it arrived the day before Xmas eve, I cut my own bulkheads from the sheets still in the box and laid the first plank at 12.15 on Xmas eve
This is the finished job today and I'm giving it to her tomorrow as a belated Xmas present.

Lifeboats, next step
 

Fig-108 -   A set of assembled parts at the top, in the centre is the strake of plating with door attached showing the out side, and at the bottom the second strake of plating for the other side of the hull, showing the complete door assembly attached to the inside, and including butt plates.  The one Euro coin about the size of a quarter dollar will give an idea of there size at 96th scale.

FWIW, it looks like it's called a warping fairlead
 
http://www.nauticexpo.com/boat-manufacturer/warping-fairlead-1024.html

Well guys I finally got to a point that figure I would do a up date on Montagu. As I had posted some where, may here or on Marks log of the Bellona that I had placed my channels wales to high and had to remove them and lower them  closer to the gun deck ports. Don't ask me how, maybe along the same line as redoing the cant frames more then once but they now reside in the right place. Had to take a few addition planks off of her, guess I just didn't like their look of them. Also been working on the cheeks and the  quarter deck gun ports and happy to report, they are in the right place and one more piece and they will be done. Also installed some battern's to help with the placement of the upper railes, in the near future. That is as soon as I am happy with how they look.   Gary

The steering pulleys are laminated thin styrene to make the groove easier. The full size pulleys are 2-1/2 inch diameter. I found some fine beading wire for the steering cable. The wire is .014 in (.36 mm) diameter, 21 strand with a clear coating. Very fine strands indeed. This is almost ¼ inch diameter in scale (the boat uses 1/8 in cable) but it looks right.
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
The pictures below show the deck installed along with the details added earlier. The throttle and shift cables are 1/32 styrene rod painted black. There is a small step in the deck at the corner of the windshield so I covered the foredeck with thin ply. Some filling and sanding then I can paint the hull.

Bits and Pieces
I made the throttle control by laminating 1/32 sheet and 1/64 plywood. This was the best way to support the levers in position. The first photo shows the slots to hold the throttle at the idle position and the shift lever in neutral. The levers are brass strips with small beads for handles and will be installed later.




 
 
 
 
 
 
 
The speedometer face was drawn large and printed at a very small scale. I chose the darker one. The photo shows all of the tiny imperfections. Patrick, how do you build in such small scale? My fingers are not that skilled.


Unable to find a commercial steering wheel the right size, I soldered one from brass tubing and sheet. The result is acceptable though not as round as I would like. My ambitions exceed my skills (don’t we all?).


The gray part with wires in the photo is the compass body. I will paint the top black to resemble the dial and will make a small base. I will not even attempt to print the dial, it would be invisible.


 

Wow, it has been a long time since my last update. I have been slow but but not idle.

The forward seat parts were simple to make but tricky to install. I’m learning slowly how to build mostly square seats in a boat with no right angles and few flat surfaces. Aligning the seat parts was fiddly, requiring a few attempts. Some Lego blocks helped provide some support for gluing. I am satisfied with the result.

One difference between our boat and the one at Foss Waterway, ours had a partition enclosing the bow storage area. The partition is attached to the first frame and has a small sliding hatch. As a child it was my job to retrieve items from here (small boys are useful for something!).

Hi everyone! So about time I did an update, mainly have been waiting on a shipment of carronade parts so decided to take a small break. That said I have been tinkering away quite a bit on metal work for the carronade. It's been a new learning curve metal acts differently than wood. Overall you can see the various rings I added and also the detailing added to the carronade itself, breech ring, loading, aim, etc. I wanted to finish the carronade before I posted but noted a snag I'm hoping some of you might help me out with. It's regarding the carriage wheels....
 
 
BTW I just love that little bucket, it's darling!