realworkingsailor

I think Shipman is right, according to this website, it was an oil tank.

Found a prototype photo too:
 


Andy

Ras, dang those instructions! Now I'm gonna have to eat Shipman's slippers. 

I think Shipman is right, according to this website, it was an oil tank.

Found a prototype photo too:
 


Andy

I think Shipman is right, according to this website, it was an oil tank.

Found a prototype photo too:
 


Andy

Yep, and it fed the gear train driving the twin camshafts on the opposite side of the camshafts driveshaft to slow down the oil loss....
 
Excellent find brother...

I think Shipman is right, according to this website, it was an oil tank.

Found a prototype photo too:
 


Andy

Just my opinion, in the images of the completed bike that were posted above, it has to be an oil tank.... The reason I say this is it is the only way it makes sense and the line from the tank goes to the rocker assembly.... Since the oiling system on all these early bikes was gravity flow or hand pump fed, this has to be an early form of oiler.... The large tank feeds the crankcase, the small tank feeds the head...
 
On the opposite side rising from the crankcase to the head is the drive tube for the camshaft, I see no other provision for getting oil to the camshaft journals...
 
Harley used a similar system on some of it's very early bikes....

Sorry guy's I don't agree.
There is no reason to have a reserve supply of fuel (2 pints at best in that tank).
As for the Protar diagram, I'd take that with a pinch of salt.
The small tank is for oil.
I'll do a bit more research and eat my slippers if I'm wrong.

Thanks for all the likes and kind comments!
 
One small update for today, I have finished painting the landing gear doors. 
 
Once again, I strayed away from using the supplied decals on the main doors and painted them on as I did for the fuselage stripes. Apparently the ground crew of the kit supplied scheme made a small error when they applied the invasion stripes (see if you can guess what it is 🤔):
 

 
I've also installed the engine exhaust pipes. They were painted with Humbrol gunmetal followed by a wash of Floquil rust to give a nice burnt metal look.
 

 
This gets me just about as far as I can go. My usual next step is to paint and attach the landing gear, followed by the last little parts like the arial, pitot tube, etc (any items that would be at risk of damage should an accidental belly landing occur). Until my replacement parts arrive (which I'm really not expecting until the end of this week at the very earliest), I will have to be content to sit and wait. Oh Well....
 
Andy
 
 
 

Well received, thank you so much! 
 
Andy

I’ve been doing as much digging on my own as I can, the only real reference that I can find is from a decal company called aviaeology. In their aircraft stencil set for the Typhoon, they are ambivalent on the status of that particular stencil. From what they say, definitely present in rocket Typhoons, maybe/maybe not for bombphoons…
 

 
In all honesty it’s enough ambiguity for me to leave things as they are, but my curiosity is still piqued…
 
Andy

And I’m back. The chassis of the cannon. I have to do the tools for the side them strap them in and I can add dust. 

Is there any way you could make it moveable? Or does the assembly preclude that possibility?
 
Andy

Thanks for all the likes and kind comments!
 
One small update for today, I have finished painting the landing gear doors. 
 
Once again, I strayed away from using the supplied decals on the main doors and painted them on as I did for the fuselage stripes. Apparently the ground crew of the kit supplied scheme made a small error when they applied the invasion stripes (see if you can guess what it is 🤔):
 

 
I've also installed the engine exhaust pipes. They were painted with Humbrol gunmetal followed by a wash of Floquil rust to give a nice burnt metal look.
 

 
This gets me just about as far as I can go. My usual next step is to paint and attach the landing gear, followed by the last little parts like the arial, pitot tube, etc (any items that would be at risk of damage should an accidental belly landing occur). Until my replacement parts arrive (which I'm really not expecting until the end of this week at the very earliest), I will have to be content to sit and wait. Oh Well....
 
Andy
 
 
 

Is there any way you could make it moveable? Or does the assembly preclude that possibility?
 
Andy

If I may, one of my other hobbies is collecting brass model locomotives, so I may be able to provide some insight. Pretty much all brass model trains available are hand assembled, even commercially made ones. Generally the production runs are very small (a few hundred units of a given type), so the industry does not lend itself to expensive tooling and mechanization. The only fundamental difference between a brass locomotive kit (or scratch build), and a "factory" assembled model is the box it comes in.
 

 
Pretty much all of the solder joints are located in areas that are largely invisible, so that a causal observer wouldn't see them. (There is a little tarnish and staining on this model as its previous owner suffered a house fire and the model was subject to the liberal application of water that fire departments are rightfully well known for), it's otherwise in good mechanical condition. The model was built by Samhongsa in Korea and imported by Van Hobbies (who had a working relationship with Pacific Fast Mail).
 

 
After removing the three screws that hold the shell to the frame, you can see the underside, and interior is quite mottled with solder joints.
 

 
Adding to an earlier post about soldering multiple details, in most brass train models, multiple different solders are used with different melt temperatures. Starting with the highest temperature solder and working down to the lowest (although it's worth noting that in the above model, none of the solder will melt with your typical OTC hardware store soldering iron. To perform any repairs, generally a resistance soldering iron is needed, at the very least.
 
Andy
 

This plane is called "Bad Penny".  This Lancaster was ABC equipped (Airborne Cigar radio jamming).
 
Here is a snippet from our club newsletter:
 
While transmissions from A.B.C. (Airborne Cigar radio jamming) equipped Lancasters like the Bad Penny protected the rest of the planes in the bomber stream, it simultaneously made 101 Squadron’s Lancasters highly vulnerable to attack. A German night fighter could home in on an A.B.C. transmission and track it back to its source. The enemy could also visually identify A.B.C. equipped Lancasters. Their three, very distinctive seven foot tall transmission masts made them easily recognizable, and after realizing their significance, Luffwaffe pilots began targeting these 101 bombers first. 
Flying a mission in an A.B.C. equipped Lancaster quickly became one of the most dangerous things an airman could do.   Flying a mission in an A.B.C. equipped Lancaster quickly became one of the most dangerous things an airman could do. Squadron’s tactical significance to prosecuting Bomber Command’s air-war, was one of the reasons why 101’s Lancasters would be some of the first bombers fitted with duck .50 caliber machine guns in their rear turrets’ this upgrade would replace the standard four 303 caliber machine guns in most Lancasters at the time.  The kit came with brass barrels to replace the poorly detailed plastic barrels of the model’s eight 303s. Unfortunately these brass barrels came incomplete, without their cooling jackets. To remedy this, the Scale Model Club purchased new, highly detailed 303 and .50 caliber barrels for the build.   Work has now begun on the Bad Penny model’s three Fraser Nash turrets. One of our builders is working on the bomber’s mid-upper turret. It was an FN50 with two 303 machine guns.   Up front, the bomber’s nose turret was an FN5A, and was also equipped with two 303 machine guns. The rear turret the kit came with is an FN120, with four 303 machine guns. This turret will be modified and converted into an FN82, which was equipped with two .50 caliber machine guns.      




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Is there any way you could make it moveable? Or does the assembly preclude that possibility?
 
Andy

If I may, one of my other hobbies is collecting brass model locomotives, so I may be able to provide some insight. Pretty much all brass model trains available are hand assembled, even commercially made ones. Generally the production runs are very small (a few hundred units of a given type), so the industry does not lend itself to expensive tooling and mechanization. The only fundamental difference between a brass locomotive kit (or scratch build), and a "factory" assembled model is the box it comes in.
 

 
Pretty much all of the solder joints are located in areas that are largely invisible, so that a causal observer wouldn't see them. (There is a little tarnish and staining on this model as its previous owner suffered a house fire and the model was subject to the liberal application of water that fire departments are rightfully well known for), it's otherwise in good mechanical condition. The model was built by Samhongsa in Korea and imported by Van Hobbies (who had a working relationship with Pacific Fast Mail).
 

 
After removing the three screws that hold the shell to the frame, you can see the underside, and interior is quite mottled with solder joints.
 

 
Adding to an earlier post about soldering multiple details, in most brass train models, multiple different solders are used with different melt temperatures. Starting with the highest temperature solder and working down to the lowest (although it's worth noting that in the above model, none of the solder will melt with your typical OTC hardware store soldering iron. To perform any repairs, generally a resistance soldering iron is needed, at the very least.
 
Andy
 

Is there any way you could make it moveable? Or does the assembly preclude that possibility?
 
Andy

Is there any way you could make it moveable? Or does the assembly preclude that possibility?
 
Andy

Not with the kit provided parts but I’m sure it could be done with the right reference material and time/effort. It’s a fairly complex assembly. Will probably pose mine closed.
 
PS: After looking some more at photos of it, the open position offers a lot of visual effect not seen in a closed position, so I may do it open. So much more to see that way.

Is there any way you could make it moveable? Or does the assembly preclude that possibility?
 
Andy

Is there any way you could make it moveable? Or does the assembly preclude that possibility?
 
Andy

Is there any way you could make it moveable? Or does the assembly preclude that possibility?
 
Andy