realworkingsailor

If I may, one of my other hobbies is collecting brass model locomotives, so I may be able to provide some insight. Pretty much all brass model trains available are hand assembled, even commercially made ones. Generally the production runs are very small (a few hundred units of a given type), so the industry does not lend itself to expensive tooling and mechanization. The only fundamental difference between a brass locomotive kit (or scratch build), and a "factory" assembled model is the box it comes in.
 

 
Pretty much all of the solder joints are located in areas that are largely invisible, so that a causal observer wouldn't see them. (There is a little tarnish and staining on this model as its previous owner suffered a house fire and the model was subject to the liberal application of water that fire departments are rightfully well known for), it's otherwise in good mechanical condition. The model was built by Samhongsa in Korea and imported by Van Hobbies (who had a working relationship with Pacific Fast Mail).
 

 
After removing the three screws that hold the shell to the frame, you can see the underside, and interior is quite mottled with solder joints.
 

 
Adding to an earlier post about soldering multiple details, in most brass train models, multiple different solders are used with different melt temperatures. Starting with the highest temperature solder and working down to the lowest (although it's worth noting that in the above model, none of the solder will melt with your typical OTC hardware store soldering iron. To perform any repairs, generally a resistance soldering iron is needed, at the very least.
 
Andy
 

It doesn’t look like it, they have a web storefront in $US through their parent company (Hornby Hobbies), the only customer support I found was just helpful tips and suggestions, as well as the usual returns information. The technical support and spares is all in their UK “Airfix” storefront. I suspect if you dug around on the “US” website, you’d just end up there anyway. 
 
Andy


 
 

It doesn’t look like it, they have a web storefront in $US through their parent company (Hornby Hobbies), the only customer support I found was just helpful tips and suggestions, as well as the usual returns information. The technical support and spares is all in their UK “Airfix” storefront. I suspect if you dug around on the “US” website, you’d just end up there anyway. 
 
Andy


 
 

Does Airfix have a North American customer service center like Tamiya does, or do the replacement parts come out of GB? Either way, it's good news. In the past, I have requested to buy replacement decals for Tamiya kits I owned where the decals were ruined due to my own issues, but they replaced them for free. Was really surprised by that.

Thanks Mike!
 
Yeah, it’s really nice that Airfix does stand behind their products. Gives me confidence in buying their products in the future.

I can now stop staring at the mailbox hoping that maybe something might show up, and start staring at the mailbox knowing that maybe something might show up! 🤪
 
Andy

Thanks Mike!
 
Yeah, it’s really nice that Airfix does stand behind their products. Gives me confidence in buying their products in the future.

I can now stop staring at the mailbox hoping that maybe something might show up, and start staring at the mailbox knowing that maybe something might show up! 🤪
 
Andy

Andy, your worms did a great job, wow!  Stellar paint job!  Glad to hear that Airfix sent out replacement parts -- good to know what companies will do that.

As always, thanks everyone!
 
No point getting too verbose about the next stages, so I'll just let the pictures speak for themselves:
 

 

 

 

 

 
Big sigh of relief, everything went according to plan. Just a couple of very minor touch up spots. This is probably one of the more complicated paint jobs I've done (on account of the invasion stripes), but I wouldn't hesitate to do it this way again.
 
Andy

Thank you Kevin, and Pavel.
@ Kevin - I think 'only slightly ahead' is slightly understating it. 😁
@ Pavel - Thankyou for looking in on my build.👍
 
Post Eleven
 
Fairing the Hull.
This is such a big beast, I couldn’t quite decide the best way to approach the fairing business.
Not easy to hold while fairing, altho’ holding at angles during the process is almost a certainty.
 
I finally decided that having the hull inverted was the best approach, so I knocked up a simple jig to hold it inverted.

0569
This consists of nothing more than styrene packing material cut to fit snuggly inside the hull and hold it clear of the base during the process.

0570
The packing should protect the delicate bulkhead extensions.

0571
Battens were fitted to the board to hold the hull in place during the sanding.
This arrangement will also double up for the planking and coppering of the hull.

0572
All the necessary stuff is assembled, but I won’t be doing the fairing in my workroom, too much dust.
I need to wait for a quiet, mild day, without the gusting winds we have at present. The forecast for these ‘ere parts doesn’t look that brilliant over the next few days, so I may return to the small boatyard and Medway.
 
B.E.
23/03/23
 

Thanks everyone, I really appreciate it!
 
@Egilman I wouldn’t claim to be a master yet, but given how inexpensive a package of poster putty is (and how far it goes), I can afford a little error in my trials. 
 
Well, I received some good news this morning, Airfix has shipped out the replacement landing gear parts. Yay! 
 
Andy
 

Thanks everyone, I really appreciate it!
 
@Egilman I wouldn’t claim to be a master yet, but given how inexpensive a package of poster putty is (and how far it goes), I can afford a little error in my trials. 
 
Well, I received some good news this morning, Airfix has shipped out the replacement landing gear parts. Yay! 
 
Andy
 

Well easier than masking a ship 

Thanks everyone, I really appreciate it!
 
@Egilman I wouldn’t claim to be a master yet, but given how inexpensive a package of poster putty is (and how far it goes), I can afford a little error in my trials. 
 
Well, I received some good news this morning, Airfix has shipped out the replacement landing gear parts. Yay! 
 
Andy
 

Next up is the Wing Transom....
 
This is pretty straight forward.  Especially after shaping all of those frames.  This is laser cut but still requires some shaping because of the many angles.
 
I removed the char from the top and bottom first before adding the provided templates.  You can see the untouched wing transom in the photo as well.  
 
The top template is glued on with rubber cement.  The top has the notches in it for the stern frames and quarter piece.
 

Then the bottom template.. pretty easy so far.
 

Then use a sanding stick to sand the bevels on each side using the templates for a guide.  This will create the desired parallelogram shape. 
 

 
Then the wing transom is glued into position.  Make sure your hull is vertical on the build board.  Especially the stern post.  Then use your squares to line it up with the build board plan.  Make sure the height is the same port and starboard.   Use titebond here so you have more open time to level this and get it all squared up.

Then it is time to add the last "top jig".
 
But before doing so, I must mention that the forked bracket will be removed that holds the stern post vertical.  I know...its important.  But seriously we wont be needing it any more.  We will add the last top jig first and then remove the bracket immediately after.  This way you can still use that string to check that this last jig is aligned and centered. 
 
The last jig is added just like the previous two others.   Make sure its aligned down the center.   Make sure its the same height port and starboard. You can use a string like before and a square.   Once satisfied and taped in position along the puzzle piece connection, you can remove that forked bracket as shown in the photo below.
 
This last top jig actually comes with two rectangular holes on top.  There are two keys that slide into them which will now hold the stern post perfectly vertical.  They are "T" shaped.  Dont glue the keys in position.  They are snug tight fit.  Just push them into the holes.  See how they holds the stern post vertical?  You will want to remove the keys if you decide to turn the hull upside down to fair the hull later.   It wont sit flat with the keys in position.  But we only need to use them for a short time.
 

Then the quarter pieces are added.  Here is the one on the starboard side completed.   I will detail how its shaped when I do the other side.  I know this may look a bit odd to some folks but its all going to workout in the end.   
 
There are some laser etched bevel lines etc on these pieces and I will explain how they need to be handled and in what order.
 
But basically,  this quarter piece sits on the end of the wing transom (a notch is there so no quess-work) and the top is angled inboard to match the sloping sides of the hull.  It sits against the edge of the "top jig"   The forward end is glued to the aft face of the last cant frame.
 
Note how it extends over the wing transom a bit further aft by about 5/64".   That is correct on done on purpose.   It will be important later when we do the square tuck.
 
Having this all done and laser cut in one piece makes it a lot easier.  The framing as you can see in the photo would have been tricky.  Just read through Greg's log to see how tricky it is.  I was initially  going to just leave this part solid but then I decided to have a little fun.  I made it look like the framing was actually there even though we are planking from the wales up anyway.
 
We will add the remaining cant frames (really only half frames) soon.  They fill in the bottom below this quarter piece.
 
When faired and planked nobody will ever know.  The hull framing is getting there!!!  Nearly complete.
 

 

And a snapshot of the working plan....just for clarification.
 

One last dry fit before gluing the fuselage halves together. A lot of detail buried inside there. You can clearly see the offset between the tandem seats that Ken spoke about in an earlier part of this thread. Thanks again because I would surely thought I put something together wrong if he had not mentioned this fact. Looks odd and have never seen that on another two-seater
.

good evening everyone, the boi is very tired today, but is happy eating and woofing
 
day 23
thank you for the comments and likes
 
busy day in the mancave
quarter galleries made up, not being fixed to the hull at this stage, but as an alignment aid
 

the stern builds up but only to fit one piece for now

and here it is the two above pices are for now soley to align this up, once happy a pencil line is drawn under it and the wood from the tuck is removed
 

once dry, outside in the sunshine for sanding

gunports squared off and first of many red coats going on, 
 
god im loving this build, and only another years worth of her left

 
 
 

Are they anything like Archer’s rivet decals? Or, at least, the next logical step. (Instead of just a dot of resin, an actual moulded detail).
 
I thought from your initial picture they were flat, but I see they’re anything but. 
 
A very interesting product, I would imagine slightly less expensive than PE?
 
Andy

Post Ten.
 
Internal bulkhead frames – sanding – what joy!
The purpose here is to get a smooth line to which attach the inner bulwarks, quick works in 18thc parlance. The spirketting will be added later.

0520
I found it easier to sand the frames with the hull upright, using a combination of an angled finger sander and sheet paper cut to size. Working from the opposite side, my free hand supporting the bulkhead extensions.
Contrary to this posed photo, it is advisable to work with bare lower arms to avoid snagging cuffs etc on the bulkhead extensions.

0547
I used a combination of 80/120 grade papers.
The fit of these parts is very good, a slight bevel on the leading edge of the foremost (optional) part all that was required.
 

0541
The fit along the deck line is very clean, as are the three join lines between the four sections. The top-line rises a fraction above the upper longitudinal gunport rail which will be sanded flush with the Longitudinal top rail.
Under clamps the sections  seemed to conform well to the framing without the need for wetting. I did blast them with heat under clamping.

0544
I applied the starboard side sections sequentially, applying pva directly to the frames to enhance adhesion it was then left overnight to cure.
The procedure was repeated on the Port side next morning.

0551
Atop the longitudinal rails are fitted the deck beam strips (Deck clamps) which slotted into the bulkheads without issue. Into these the Upper deck beams are slotted, again without any issues.

0563

0566
 I also took the opportunity to add carlings below the hatchway openings of the deck. I really don’t like to see those thin edges of the false deck, particularly  for ladderways and hatches with the gratings removed.

0556
The foremost deck beam incorporates a representation of the Bowsprit stop. This will be removed and re-set some 15mm further back between the legs of the Fore Topsail bitts, which will then allow the manger boards to be installed.
 
The inboard face of Bulkhead 1 is disguised in shades of black and grey. In an oob build this area is hidden but with my build the Gundeck will be visible thro’ the unplanked upper deck.
It is another smoke and mirrors device to help mask this pob construction compromise.

0554

0555

0562
The Upper deck beams fitted across the deck and slotted seamlessly into place. It is useful having the reference numbers stamped on both beams and clamps.

0567
Once the fit is established the ‘clamping’ strips are glued into place and the beams removed for a later stage.
 
I now need to stiffen my resolve to begin the hull fairing.

B.E.
22/03/23

Thanks everyone, I really appreciate it!
 
@Egilman I wouldn’t claim to be a master yet, but given how inexpensive a package of poster putty is (and how far it goes), I can afford a little error in my trials. 
 
Well, I received some good news this morning, Airfix has shipped out the replacement landing gear parts. Yay! 
 
Andy
 

Thanks everyone, I really appreciate it!
 
@Egilman I wouldn’t claim to be a master yet, but given how inexpensive a package of poster putty is (and how far it goes), I can afford a little error in my trials. 
 
Well, I received some good news this morning, Airfix has shipped out the replacement landing gear parts. Yay! 
 
Andy
 

Thanks everyone, I really appreciate it!
 
@Egilman I wouldn’t claim to be a master yet, but given how inexpensive a package of poster putty is (and how far it goes), I can afford a little error in my trials. 
 
Well, I received some good news this morning, Airfix has shipped out the replacement landing gear parts. Yay! 
 
Andy
 

Thanks everyone, I really appreciate it!
 
@Egilman I wouldn’t claim to be a master yet, but given how inexpensive a package of poster putty is (and how far it goes), I can afford a little error in my trials. 
 
Well, I received some good news this morning, Airfix has shipped out the replacement landing gear parts. Yay! 
 
Andy
 

Thanks everyone, I really appreciate it!
 
@Egilman I wouldn’t claim to be a master yet, but given how inexpensive a package of poster putty is (and how far it goes), I can afford a little error in my trials. 
 
Well, I received some good news this morning, Airfix has shipped out the replacement landing gear parts. Yay! 
 
Andy
 

As always, thanks everyone!
 
No point getting too verbose about the next stages, so I'll just let the pictures speak for themselves:
 

 

 

 

 

 
Big sigh of relief, everything went according to plan. Just a couple of very minor touch up spots. This is probably one of the more complicated paint jobs I've done (on account of the invasion stripes), but I wouldn't hesitate to do it this way again.
 
Andy

It's better by orders of magnitude than my best hairy stick efforts could produce. The Quinta Studios 3D sets are very economical when compared to Eduard photo etch sets, but the Eduard versions of 3D decals are a little on the pricey side here in the USA. Prices may vary in other countries, I don't know.