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ObviousNewbie

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Everything posted by ObviousNewbie

  1. Hi all, quick question: I've been experimenting with sanding/fairing in preparation for the first layer planking, trying out a pin pusher (works really well), and the plank bender. Test fitted one plank: Now the question: the plank fits snugly with the bulwark, but as you can see I didn't sand that much. So what has priority: maximum contact between plank and bulkhead (and sand off the excess bulwark later) OR alignment with the bulwark and lesser contact? (Test fitting came a bit loose, but trust me, the plank fitted πŸ™‚ )
  2. Busy week last week, managed to do some work nonetheless.. And my first blunder πŸ™‚ After testing the varnish, I planned to move ahead: glueing the deck on the bulkheads, bending, painting and attaching the bulwarks. First experiences with the CA glue were... interesting. Mind you, I got the thin CA, which was not really suited for attaching the deck. Friend of mine gave me some advice to try this out: CA glue, but a gel, easy to apply even with a spatula if necessary. In short, good stuff. After some tests I attached the deck without any issue. Next up, bending the bulwarks. Did a lot of reading and asked for advice (thnx Wahka_est!) and went for it: put the 2 bulwarks in piping hot water and let soak for an hour. Then bending them around a tin can: Worked like a charm... But after allowing them to dry I realised I apparently choose to neglect my marks on the wood and bent both bulwarks in the same direction. After a brief moment of panic and a dash to find the Occre support contact, decided to simply put the wood back in the water, and try and bend it the other way. To my surprise, not a minute after re-immersing the bulwark in the water, the curve straightened itself out. Let it soak, bent it carefully the other way, let dry. What a material, you try doing that with plastic πŸ™‚ After varnishing the bent bulwarks, planned the assembly to the hull. Stern fitted perfectly, some CA was going to be needed for the front, and here we are: Far from perfect, but a good first try, I think. I'm going to let the hull dry overnight and then fairing commences πŸ™‚
  3. Indeed, that's an issue I'll be facing as well. Wanted to solve it like this (as described in the Mastini book): Dry fit a mast, tie a rope line on the approximate height of where the shroud finishes, and then use that line as a guide to mark the deadeyes on the buffer.I think as soon as you measure the first, you get a good idea of where the rest should go as the spacing of the deadeyes is a constant (please correct me if I'm wrong). Issue 2 is then, how to determine the connection point from the deadeyes to their attachment points at the bottom of the buffer. You'l probably notice the ads lines do not run in the same direction as the line of the shroud. I've seen a lot of different approaches to this, from just ignoring the plans and make the connections all straight, to following the shroud lines. Still trying to figure this one out..
  4. Nice work! I assume you taped the top to prevent damage while sanding down the sides?
  5. Some testing today, tried out the colourless matt varnish as well as the brown stain: First coat for both colours. I really like the brown stain, after one coat it gives this warm dark tint without hiding the wood structure. The colourless one is, well invisible πŸ™‚ Coated the deck with a first coat of colourless, while giving the test batch a second layer. I am going to use the dark brown on the sides of the bulwarks and the inside of the mirror. Waiting for everything to dry and then: attaching the deck to the hull..
  6. Thnx for the tip, so basically get some balsa wood and sand it into shape after inserting it between the bulkheads?
  7. Another update: cut off the excess wood, sanded the edges, lightly sanded the deck, and here it is: The caulking is a bit more pronounced in real life, but very subtle nonetheless. Don't really fancy having a go at the deck with a pencil though. Apologies for the log spamming, but everything I do, I do for the first time, with all the hesitation and doubt, and afterwards the excitement to see the results. πŸ™‚ And again a question: I made a quick stop at the hardware store tonight and found this: Translated: Lacquer/varnish for furniture, colourless, mat, and water-based. Is anyone familiar with this brand/product? I bought a small tin to try out, with the idea to use this on the deck and other parts of the superstructure... Thnx in advance for all the advice!
  8. Update: deck planking is done! That took longer than expected. After the assembly of the bulkheads, this was a whole new building experience for me. One of the things I wanted to find out was if I still had the patience to work in a focussed way.. Well, now I know πŸ™‚ I opted to work with individual planks, instead of following the instructions, and I learned a lot. I'll leave the deck to dry overnight and tomorrow I'll trim the edges and sand the top, followed by some varnish πŸ™‚ Sanding paper-wise, I've been using P240 up until now, as it's somewhere in the middle of the scale. Not sure if I can use this on 0,6mm plankettes though, any suggestions? Thnx again for all your advice, so far my enthusiasm for building this ship is only growing. Oh, small tip for anyone building Terror and starting on the deck planking: the schematic on the plans for the inclined planks is correct angle-wise, but incorrect lengthwise. The parts list calls out for a length of 47mm, while the drawing of the plans is only 42mm. That's why you see the two different lengths used in the pictures above, as 42mm length does not cover the false deck at its widest point.
  9. Trying out some stuff I use for my garden furniture later this week, reddish brown coloured stain. I'll let you know how I get on.
  10. πŸ™‚ I understand how you feel, I'm working on the deck planking, one diagonal plank at a time. I thought it would drive me insane, but I'm enjoying the focus and the slowness of it all, as well as the joy when you see your handiwork. And wood as a building material is a true revelation, I'd only done plastic before, but the feel and the smell just adds to the experience.
  11. Stupid question: I'm working on the deck planking, keeping en eye on alignment. I decided togo for individual planks, deviating from the Occre plans which call for full length strips to be placed and then marked with a pencil (pictures will arrive later on). I've got some dark brown woodsman and matt varnish in storage I use for maintaining my garden furniture. Can I use this on the model? The colour seems to match with there suggested colour for the inner bulwarks, so was just wondering.
  12. Still trying to see the AMC show I heard so much about, not available over here unfortunately. Saw some trailers on YT though, seemed intense πŸ™‚
  13. 1) That makes sense, was the reason I was thinking about the same technique. 2) Interesting, how long did you leave them in the hot water? I keep hearing the most diverse times, from 15 minutes to overnight.. She looks great though, thank you for sharing!
  14. No, just some samples I got as an extra with the plank bender. As I only had 2 little trips to work with, my surfacing was somewhat limited πŸ™‚ Used 240 sandpaper to smoothen things out, not sure if this is fine enough..
  15. Tested a bit, both glue application and caulking: So wiping off the glue with a damp cloth works perfectly, thnx Henke and Wahka_est ! All planks were caulked (is that even a word?) on the top and right side, but the bottom 2 planks had additional treatment with a pencil after they were glued on... Guess my caulking needs practice πŸ™‚ It was a bit hard to practice on these strips though. They came with the plank bender I got and the edges were very uneven. Checked my supply from Occre, and these strips are way more even (and thinner).
  16. Thnx for the referral to your build log, very informative πŸ™‚ I have two questions: 1) I see for the planking you went from nails to push pins, any reason why? I'm asking because to me the pushpin approach seems easier to remove than filing down the nails... 2) Bending the bulwarks: did you use a plank bending tool? If so, which one?
  17. Hi Henrik, No harm done, I'm Robert by the way πŸ™‚. Thnx for the tip, I have some spare wood and planks available, will try that out tonight!
  18. Hi all, Small update: after much measuring, planning and hesitation, finally opened the glue bottle πŸ™‚ Got the bulkheads in place and glued, using the "Danish Method" (Lego Bricks): Mantua's alifatic glue seems to be doing the business, dries evenly, can be dosed quite easily, and hardly any discolouration on the wood itself. So proceeded with glueing the reinforcements as well: Some minor alterations needed to be done, as one of the bulkheads was leaning back a bit, although squarely lined up. Adjusted the opening on the false deck to make everything fit again. On to the next step: planking the deck, and some more questions: 1) The video on the Occre channel are using contact (cobblers) glue for this, any reason why? Only thing that comes to mind is that contact glue is thicker and allows for better positioning and correcting. 2) Same video: planking is done in one go, so without cutting the planks to the accurate length (60mm). After all planks are fitted, caulking is applied with a sharp pencil. Just wondering if the result of this would be as good as the approach where each plank is caulked before fitted? Thnx in advance again for your help!
  19. Thanks for the encouragement, really appreciated. Will move on slowly and steadily!
  20. That's what I thought, but it seems ti dries without leaving any marks on the wood. Will try later this week, I'll keep you posted.
  21. Thnx, so far I'm really enjoying all the preparations, main reason I took the step was to be able to work on something for a long time, months instead of weeks. Haven't really set myself a deadline, but from what I've seen so far one year build time seems to be reasonable, I can live with that. The reason I chose HMS Terror is from the available models this was the one that stood out for me, and I got the advice: "If you are going to build something, build something you like, something you'd want to build". I realise there's a number of extra hurdles to jump with Terror compared to other models, but I dove in nevertheless, allowing for more time to prepare and learn.
  22. Hi there, so far no real issues, I've been scouring all over for references to other builds. Next to the three build logs on this forum, there's this detailed build log (in French, but lots of images), as well as this build log and this one on another forum (in English). Also, on Youtube there's a lot of info, the full set of 113 videos from Occre of course, but also some handy video's on planking HMS Terror (in German), and a Russian video log. I've also been following other builds, both on this forum and elsewhere, to learn about basic techniques. As my past was more focussed on plastic models, I was really interested in the properties of the different glues used, and what to watch out for. I find the video build log of John Aliprantis covering the Santissima Trinidad helpful as well. A monster of a ship, but he gives a clear explanation of what he's doing. He seems to be using CA glue for most of the assembly though, I don't think I have the experience yet to work with that type of glue, except for small details. To finally decide on glue I visited the model store close by, they recommended the Ali-Glue from Mantua (aliphatic glue), as it seems to leave no marks on the wood. Will try that out later. Good luck and happy building πŸ™‚

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