jaerschen

Congrats for reaching this milestone, Jürgen. Your hull looks really impressive. I am nosey to see your hull when we meet next year .

The lower mast shrouds, ratlines, futtock shrouds, and the catharpins have been completed, also the main part of the bowsprit has been set onto the hull and rigged plus the gammoning has been done, also the rigging at the bow, for the main stay and the preventer stay.
I am now in the process of making the stays,the mouse being the most awkward part to make,I tried tapering some wooded dowel drilling and threading them onto the rope but found serving over them did not work out well, so I am making them by tying thread around the rope, thick first and tapering with thinner rope, coating with PVA and serving,and then serving again when the whole stay is served,they are much smoother that they look in the photos.

Hi Nils
 
I'm with Martin, the sails must looking great at your model

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 94 – Main Deck Framing 5
 
Because the main deck framing supports the mast partners, knees are installed as reinforcements at the partners.  I also installed them at the hatchway openings.  I made these as overlapping knees.  I did not go to this trouble for the lodging knees at the side because their fore and aft arms are not visible on the model.  I do not yet know if these central knees will be covered with decking or not.  The first picture shows some of these knees before installing.
 

 
The next picture shows a few installed at the main mast partners and at the hatch just aft of this.
 

 
I installed these central knees first before going on to the major task of setting all of the ten dozen or so lodging knees at the sides.   The next picture shows this lodging knee installation proceeding aft from the bow.
 

 
The next picture shows a closer view of this work. 
 
 

 
This is one type of lodging knee combination used on these ships and is the one I used on all of the decks.  It is the simplest – with the fore and aft arms simply butting.  They will be covered by the waterways in any case.  In the picture a knee is being marked so it can be cut to fit neatly between its partner and the beam.  Bolts are then installed, the knee is polished up and then glued in.
 
The next picture shows all of the main deck lodging knees installed.
 

 
And, finally, a picture of the full hull at this stage.
 

 
The next step will be to install the ledges between each of the beams to complete the framing of this deck.
 
Ed

Battle of the Stern - Opening Salvos
 
Reread the plans at least 10 times and compared them to the salvaged stern section from V 1.0...  realized I can do a lot better and also figured out where the errors crept in.  Then reviewed Hahn's article from the NRJ on her.  The pictures were unclear and perhaps I missed something first time through.  So... scanned the article and adjusted the pics... yep.  whiffed it.  Scan of a a scan of a printed magazine with retouched photos...  <hangs head since he knows better>
 
So, I started with some deconstruction by removing the stern post.  That done, took some basswood and worked on the filler piece.  The pics seem to show one curve (which I used for V 1.0) and plans show a different curve.  Originally, I figured Hahn found something and did the filler differently then the drawing and I followed that.  Wrong!!!!  It was the pic. I followed the drawing this time.  Much happier.
 
Also, worked on the first transom frame.  A lot happier even though it took the second try to get it right.  
 
These are "rough faired" for now.  I'll go back and finish shaping when the second transom is installed.
 

Build log part 67
 
 
Sails, sails and sails......
 
 
currently I`m working on the sails, all 18 are sewn, the bolt ropes are on, and I´m continuing with the cringles ( for bowlines, reef- and buntlines, etc....) and the short reef  lines on the appropriate sails and sail areas.
The two waterholes of the sprit sail required some Handsewing to prevent fringing out.
 It took me round about a week for the sails, now I Need to order some additional blocks for their rigging
 
Nils

Still alive and drawing... now with the fore cant frames...
 

 
The draft takes a lot of effort,,, actually I think is much more or less the same effort than actually building the ship on a log. Lots of tedious work and repeating lines and more lines.
 
We´ll see.
 
Daniel.

Hi all,
Sorry folks that I have been away. Captain Buddy (the basset hound) got a major infection and we thought we were going to loose him. Many dollars later and some medical work we were able to save him and bring him back. He has resumed his duties as captain with the vigor of a puppy and we are all much relieved by this.
Meanwhile, I have finally been able to make progress on the little longboat. I decided on a blue and black stripe on a mostly white overall paint scheme with stained wood for the interior. I still need to make the oars and a rudder. Here are some pictures.
 
Richard
 
 

Hi folks. I started sanding the outer hull to get the correct shape for final sanding the transom pieces. I don't think it is a good idea to put on the transoms and then sand them because they are too close to the stem so I want to sand down the hull and custom fit the transoms afterwards.
With that in mind I made the attempt to sand the hull. I experienced major problems with the sanding - It took half of a day to sand only 1/5th of the hull. At first I blamed the sand paper and went out and purchased some 60 grit so the sanding would go faster. This did not work. So I put the hull away whilst I think about it some more. After much thought I determend that the problem is that the frames being so loosely supported were vibrating at about the same speed as the palm sander so that the sandpaper was really not doing any sanding. The normal solution would be to press harder but the frames are too weakly attached for that. The final solution is to attach some planking on the upper portion of the hull on the outside and some at the bottom on the inside and sand in sections. I'll let you know how that goes.
Meanwhile, I started making one of the longboats for the deck.
 
Richard
 

HELLO Hello!
 
It´s been a while since my last post but promise, promise that I´ve been working on (the Triton). It´s just that there was nothing reliable to post here.
 
new tools: I made a block to sand the wale out of a 25x25mm piece of pine. I also discovered a metal plate to curve the timbers. I bought it years ago by mail (not inet, nor amazon) and do not remember the address of the guy. (maybe cabrapente knows it) It is pretty useful and you avoid to have lots of jigs to get the proper curvature to the timbers, specially on the stem and stern.
 
Here are the pics:
 

 

 

 
I´ll go to next post...
 

Hello Guys
 
Sanding needs much more time as I thought. I began to fit the stern-timbers to have some change.
 

 
Now it goes on with sanding

Hello all, many thanks for warm words and comments!
 
not a big update,I have produced stanchions for the ladderway rails. The images are mostly self explanable, I hope
They are turned on Unimat from 1,5mm brass road. Then finished with steel whool on Dremel Tool. The rings are from 0,3mm brass, the rails from 0,4mm.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Finally installing around ladderway after blackening
 

 

 

 
Continue to work at Q-Deck beams, and how she look now.
 

 

 
Next step will be Capstan.
 
Regards
Alex

M a g n i f i q u e ! . . .

You're welcome Robin .
 
Main Lower Shrouds and Burton Pendants
 
I've fitted all the Main Lower Shrouds. The foremost one is served all over, and the others are served for the uppermost quarter.
 
The Burton Pendants are slipped over the mast head before fitting any of the Shrouds. These are used for heavy lifting of any cargo, in conjunction with other rigging on the yards. They have a Thimble spliced into their lower ends, and are made up as a pair with a Cut Splice around the mast :
 

 

 
The foremost shroud is a single and also uses a cut splice to connect the port and starboard shrouds :
 

 
The rest of the shrouds are paired on each side as were the mizzen shrouds. This pic shows all the shrouds fitted around the mast head :
 

 
The deadeyes and lanyards :
 

 
An overall pic of the rigging so far :
 

 
  Danny

Hello Guys
 
Sanding needs much more time as I thought. I began to fit the stern-timbers to have some change.
 

 
Now it goes on with sanding

OK, time to have some fun.
 
Mass production of the gun carraiges has begun.  Like the guns themselves, the carraige sides also grow on trees:
 

 
Chuck's carraiges embody quite a few parts.  Here are a few ready to go:
 

 
 
Before things get too far down the road (I don't like surprises), I decided to more or less complete one 12 pounder to check that everything was going to fall into place.  Besides, I have some extra cannon so gun #1 was done to serve as the prototype.  It will not be appearing on the model.  Here are a few angles:
 

 

 

 
I'm happy to report that she fits nicely into the gun ports from a height and elevation standpoint so now I'm free to proceed with the next 28 !!
 
Take solace in the fact that this mini-model will not go to waste.  It's been deployed as a security measure to guard my vast collection of proof silver coins (one, at last count):
 

 
The assembly line is now in full production mode.
 
Everyone stay well ---- and WARM!
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Hi All,
I decided to try my hand at Plank on Frame and this seemed a good way to learn. It will also give me a chance to master turning out planks and frames from wood stock so I get to give some of my tools a workout. 
 
Here is the first section of work:
 

 
I have a copy of Ed Tosti's first Naiad book and am using this build to practice fabricating and using some of his tools.  Here I have created a scraper from a razor blade to make the rabbet. (I dulled the cutting edge first ... I hate trying to get blood stains out of the wood :- )
 
Please provide access to the rest of the plans.
 
Thanks Richard

Hello Guys
 
Sanding needs much more time as I thought. I began to fit the stern-timbers to have some change.
 

 
Now it goes on with sanding

Hello Guys
 
Sanding needs much more time as I thought. I began to fit the stern-timbers to have some change.
 

 
Now it goes on with sanding

Hi Daniel,
 
Nice progress, it's looking great.

Hello All and thanks for all the “likes” (12 in a month, hahaha)
 
Oh boy! I never thought that 60 pieces of wood would tell so much about the structure of a platform. I do know that much more of this work will be invisible with the other decks but do not not how, I keep keeping the things not simple.
 
It is quiet easy to get lost if you are trying to actually build the whole inner structure of the ship, so where do you stop detailing the different rooms…?
 
For the spirituous drinks and the fish* I thought that was odd to have such a reliable source in touch with the limber water… rats, fungus, dark water… So I have decided to make 3 separate rooms for all of this. Like that we were talking about the powder room on the magazine.
 
Here are the pics; there are lots of them from the beginning.
 

 
I ended using pieces of paper to find out the shape of the bulkhead, easier and cheapier and I ran out of balsa wood.
 

 

 
Here´s a lot of work between the pics above and the rest of the post but no pics of it... we are talking about 60 pieces that took me almost a week...
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Here´s the magazine where I´ll move now. Just to check. The rooms and departments kind of scare me,,, how many pieces will be involved?...
 

 

 
Need to buy a better camera...
 
 
(*) FISH: Got a question to you, Do you think it was a room for fresh fish or salad fish? If it is salad I´ll leave the bulkhead like that but if it´s fresh I´ll have to double the bulkhead with 40mm plank (for real) on both sides (2 or 3 planks).
 
On another side, I have decided to dedicate 1 week to the Triton an one to the CAD on the Principe De La Paz because otherwise I´m not going to be able to end none of them…No rush in this hobby…
 
Best wishes and happy winter! Viva J.C. Fogerty and his CCR!!!
 
 
Daniel.

Thanks to everyone for their input regarding the planking below the transom.  Obviously, somewhere along the way, a measurement was off by about 1/8" (6" full size).  I decided to make up for this by making the planking below the transom look like it was designed to have a filler piece and not a correction for an "oopsie".  I am pleased with the look so far.  The same number of planks end on the wing transom as shown in TFFM.  The difference is that there is no need for a slight flare at the end because of the filler piece.  After installing the first row of planking below the "gang of six", I decided to lay out on the hull the rest of the runs of planking.  Tick strips were used at every station to obtain the remaining width.  This was divided by nine (the remaining number of rows) and the width was transferred to the hull with calipers.  After all the station marks were drawn in, the marks were connected in a fair line to show the run of the planking.  I also marked out the butts of the planks.  This makes the rest of the job much easier.  While there was a significant amount of framing visible, I decided to mark their locations on the planking so the lines of treenails would be fair.  At the stern this involved also marking out the fashion pieces and the location of imaginary cant frames going up towards the wing transom. Everything looks a little rough at this stage, having only lightly sanded with 100 grit.
 

 

 

 

Thanks for all the likes and generous comments.
 
Slow going at my dockyard but another four frame pairs have been installed along with another gunport and then rough internal fairing, then the admiral decreed that the workshop needed cleaning.
 
Ben

Thanks all.
 
Mark, for delicate enhancing of the joints I use a pencil, but to simulate tarring like the joints on  the rudder I use very thin paper (probably 0.1 mm thick). It comes in different colors but it's not water proof so I use the white one and tint it with a black Sharpy. All joints are lined on one side and after gluing the pieces together I used a plane to shape the rudder and trim the excess paper lining.
 
Meanwhile the metalwork on the rudder is continued, the pintles and spectacle plate are made from separate pieces silver soldered together. Piet, when all metal work is ready I will try to brown them (instead of blackening) 
 
Here they are temporary fitted
 

 

 

 

 

 
I noticed the hole for the tiller sits to close to the top of rudder, In need to make a little fix to lower it
I'm not sure how that happened......
 
Remco
 
 

Just a quick update.  The cannons have been painted .... and I included the anchors for good measure.
 

 
Wound up using 8 coats of my black/blue acrylic followed with a coat of Testor's Clear Flat acrylic.
 
Now, before anyone goes ballistic on the brass muzzle faces........
 
.....  About 1 1/2 years ago, I was very impressed with Mobbsie's treatment of the guns for his Agamemnon.  He leaves the entire muzzle section in natural brass as his trademark.  It was my thought that a scaled-back reveal of the brass on just the muzzle face might be attractive, if not true to actual practice.  As it turns out, I find this approach very appealing but the jury is still out until the guns are mounted in the gun ports.
 
Naturally, I requested Mobbsie's approval on this blatant pilfering of his idea.  He was kind enough to offer his tacit approval.  Yes, there was some discussion about renumeration for certain taxes on tea that apparently were overlooked a while back....but all has been resolved.
 
Work has already begun on assembly of the gun carraiges.  Hopefully, progress by Thanksgiving!!!