jaerschen

The completion of the standing rigging
The top gallant masts were added next,plus the jib boom and martingale and then rest of the standing rigging has been done.
 
Top gallants fitted


 
Jib boom & Martingale fitted

 
Standing Rigging







 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 104 – Planking and Wales continued
 
In the first picture the model has be uprighted and plumbed so the load waterline could be marked.
 

 
I needed to do this to set the extent of planking on each side.  The wood block is my gauge. 
 
This was also a good opportunity to mark out and bore the holes for the cabin lights as shown in the next photo.
 

 
The inboard finish planking was also installed and bored out.  I will show this later.  Brass tubes through to the interior will be added later.  The next picture shows the five openings on the starboard side.
 

 
Planking has progressed downward in this picture – below the bottom of the wale – but there is still more to be added. In the next picture the hull has again been inverted to complete the planking.
 

 
In this picture the aft planking is being stepped back with two strakes at each step on the starboard side.   This will permit several strakes of brass sheathing – each two planks wide to be wide to be installed later.  The sheathing band will extend to the edge of the lowest planks.  The top strake of sheathing will be on the waterline, with the strakes below parallel to the run of the planks and gored into the top strake.
 
On the port side there will be no sheathing and the planking will end higher to leave the framing exposed. 
 

 
This planking is stepped back higher up as shown again roughly parallel to the LWL – in single strake steps on this side.  Some planking is needed on this side so the deadeye chains can be fixed and also to provide a nicer view of the finished stern – at least from the starboard quarter.
 
In the next picture the hull has been uprighted again.
 

 
The planking of the starboard side shown is complete. The strakes below the 20 wale strakes diminish down from the wale thickness of 6” to the 4” thickness of the common bottom plank.  This transition is barely perceptible.  The top of the sheathing line can just be made out in this picture. 
 
I can’t explain why, but seeing this expanse of planking makes one realize just how large this ship was.  This was not as pronounced when the hull was in frame.
  
Ed

Detail on the second picture;
In certain cases, drawing must be fitted to fit the space.

Thank you very much David,
I`m so happy that I have the time to follow my Hobby again after retirement, but still some time to go till she browses down the slipway
 
Nils
 
 
 
Your words are much appreciated Lee,
I`m sure your "Alert`s " rigging will be first class, telling by that super framing and joining work  so far.
For my behalf I ca`nt begin a rigging sequence without doing a hand-scetch first, in order to sort out what goes where. I seldom see this from fellow builders, but I`m sure they would do so as well. The scetch usualy bears the Information from several plan Sheets concentrated to the Need in the Moment (samples included)
 
Nils
 
 
 
 

Thanks Dan and Juergen.thats a nice link Juergen - wish my german was better but all the pictures say it all :-)

Hello,
 
Thank you so much for your nice comments and also for the likes. I'm very pleased about this great interest.
 
Here's a little update. Some strakes below the wale and the garboard strake are fitted. The progress is very slowly because It's partial a bit tricky.
Also I needed time to find a way to add the planks without leaving any trace at the frames. Therefor the build from Ed of the Extreme Clipper is a great help.
 

 
In the TFFM-book this strakes are reffered to as thickstuff under the wales. There is a little step from the second to the third strake to see on the following photo. That's why the thickness of the strakes decreases. I will sanding down them when the fourth strake is installed.

 
That's the current progress.

Hi Shaun
 
It gives some other options to get the shrouds to a equal lenght. Here you can see a other one.

Hi Shaun
 
It gives some other options to get the shrouds to a equal lenght. Here you can see a other one.

I took everyone's warnings to heart regarding the frieze and was determined to stretch some paper.  I am not at home this week and therefore have no access any tools to attempt a frame like Michael demonstrated.  I had been using masking tape to hold the paper and decided to try gummed packing tape, as recommended in TFFM.  The local Staples does not carry it.  Something about "Nobody has used that for years".  I tried a series of clamps instead of tape but did not get equal pull across the edge of the paper.  So, with nothing to lose but time and patience, I decided to make the friezes from the paper painted with enamel.
 
In examining the draughts and a photo of a contemporary model of Atalanta, it appears the shear plank is much narrower than that called for in TFFM. The lower row of friezes buts up against the inferior edge of the shear plank. Consequently, the lower frieze is positioned too low and does not extend across the top of the gun port openings.  This left me with four options:  1) remove the shear plank and all the planking down to the lower edge of the gun port, resizing the width of four rows of planking, 2) redraw the lower frieze so that it is 2 mm narrower, approximating the width of the upper row of the frieze, 3) keep the dimensions of the lower the frieze and install it below the too-thick shear plank or 4) skip the frieze.  Well, number 1 was not going to happen and I really wanted that splash of color the frieze would provide.  I felt that narrowing the lower frieze would make the decoration seem out of balance.  That left me with option 3, installing the frieze below the shear plank, knowing it extends too low on the hull.  After carefully examining the draughts, I did not see any problem in proceeding with this last option.
 
After a little experimentation, the technique that worked the best for me was to cut the piece of frieze a little long to overlap the gun port openings.  Next, apply a thin layer of undiluted yellow glue to the back of the frieze.  Grasp the end of the frieze with a watchmaker's forceps and position the end at the edge of the gunport.  Slowly place the rest of the frieze in position.  Moisten the surface to remove any excess glue.  Finally, gently burnish it in place with a piece of planking.  This has to be done quickly because the glue is set within a minute.  Once completely dry, the edges of the gun port are cleaned up with an 11 blade. The slivers of blue above the gun ports were added separately.
 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
 
 
 

Hi Shaun
 
It gives some other options to get the shrouds to a equal lenght. Here you can see a other one.

Hi Shaun
 
It gives some other options to get the shrouds to a equal lenght. Here you can see a other one.

Hi Shaun
 
It gives some other options to get the shrouds to a equal lenght. Here you can see a other one.

I have continued on and cut the remainder of the deck beams.It was a slow job due to the parallelogram shape of the aft beams because of the deck sheer.These are inserted through corresponding slots in the hull.These will be slid out and the remaining deck clamps fitted.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel
 
P.S.Excuse the dust,my compressor gave up the ghost the other week so I am currently without an airline for dusting off

Build log part 72
 
update on rigging the main course.......,
as I mentioned earlier I wanted to rig the square sails in braced mode, and starting with the main sail the angle of bracing is somewhat limited to fouling with shrouds, and main stay-sail
This is the maximum (sharp braced mode) I can get out of thje geometry for this squarerigger, with loostened weather truss, and set of sail controlling lines accordingly. Am quite pleased with the geometry so far. Am using more blocks than initially intended, but it provides better appeal for the rigging.
Shall probably rig the main topsail next
 
 
Nils
 

 
related to the pre-rigging of the yard with sail, this went quite well
 
 

 
leech- and buntlines attached but not belayed yet. Also the ratlines are not on yet, as long as I have to operate with the tweezers
 
 

 
here maximum bracing angle
 

 
 

 
most of the controling lines come down between main mast and gallow to the blocks on deck and then to the belaying rail
 
 
 

Small progress but the sort that makes a difference in the mental battle that is rigging-the final shroud for the lower mainmast has been installed. I'll rig the dead eyes when the mizzen ones are done.
Also the gammoning for the bowsprit has been installed.
As per AOTS an eye was spliced in the 1mm rope with a needle used for this.

The addition of the extra rails did make the rigging of the gammoning a bit more difficult but this was expected and the hours spent measuring back when making the hair bracket and other rails paid off. The foremost middle rail on the port side broke free while rigging but this was no drama and made the rigging easier.

Five turns around the bowsprit before the thread was threaded into a needle to spread up the final turns around the centre of the gammoning before it was tied off.

Gammoning finished.

 
Also, here is my new bench I mentioned a way back that should increase my workspace. It's an old cast off (with vice included) from the engineering shop at work that I've added a new plywood top and back to.
I'm staggered at how simple general household maintenance tasks and woodworking is when all the tools are ordered and close to hand. If only I didn't have to share it all with the family wagon...
Messy cutting and sanding will be done there while in the distance at the back on my old modelling table the sharp eyed observer will see a byrnes table saw picked up second hand from a MSW member. I can now see why people rave about these machines. Scratch builds are what the future holds if I'm not being too optimistic.

Well, I know that I'm ready for retirement. Work is getting in the way of all the things that I really want to do!

Hello,
 
Thank you so much for your nice comments and also for the likes. I'm very pleased about this great interest.
 
Here's a little update. Some strakes below the wale and the garboard strake are fitted. The progress is very slowly because It's partial a bit tricky.
Also I needed time to find a way to add the planks without leaving any trace at the frames. Therefor the build from Ed of the Extreme Clipper is a great help.
 

 
In the TFFM-book this strakes are reffered to as thickstuff under the wales. There is a little step from the second to the third strake to see on the following photo. That's why the thickness of the strakes decreases. I will sanding down them when the fourth strake is installed.

 
That's the current progress.

Building Board, Keel Assembly, Stem, Deadwood, Knee of the Head, Mounting

It's been a few months since I've posted an update to my build log of Speedwell. All four platforms are now in place, as are the shot locker and galley stove. Besides the wales, there will be very little external planking in order not to cover those wacky, fun to make shifted and cast toptimbers.
 

The single wale was made of holly and stained with Fiebings black leather dye (off the model).
 

The two completed fore platforms
 
The very small shot lockers accommodate the three pound cannon balls
 

The very small shot lockers accommodate the three pound cannon balls
   
The galley stove was made of brass over a holly plug

Thanks Ben, Rusty and Mark - here are the updated photos.  I will be adding the channels next in boxwood and dye their inverted knees with Fiebings black leather dye.  I will scratch the deadeye strops and chain plate assemblies (hoping to get a torch for Xmas), then its finishing the head rails and adding the stump masts/anchors and mounting her to a display board.  
 
Yancovitch - I did not simulate caulking on the hull planking - not really a fan of that look - and most museum models do not show this detail.  You can see from the photos that the Tung Oil finish I used did accentuate the lines of the planking slightly - which was the effect I wanted. I  used a number 2 pencil to simulate caulking for the deck planking.  As far as treenailing - at this scale i didn't want to bother with it - I do think think the drilling and saw dust method would work well though if you want to go for it.  All planks were glued to each other and the bulkheads to try to get as tight of a result as possible.  Hope that helps - and thanks for the kind words!
 
Happy Thanksgiving !
Chris

Hello,
 
Thank you so much for your nice comments and also for the likes. I'm very pleased about this great interest.
 
Here's a little update. Some strakes below the wale and the garboard strake are fitted. The progress is very slowly because It's partial a bit tricky.
Also I needed time to find a way to add the planks without leaving any trace at the frames. Therefor the build from Ed of the Extreme Clipper is a great help.
 

 
In the TFFM-book this strakes are reffered to as thickstuff under the wales. There is a little step from the second to the third strake to see on the following photo. That's why the thickness of the strakes decreases. I will sanding down them when the fourth strake is installed.

 
That's the current progress.

Hello,
 
Here's a little update and I would like to take this opportunity to wish you all a Merry Christmas.
I started to fit the ribbands and coloured the Main-Wale black.

 
The ribband-nails are done in the same manner as described in the book from David Antscherl of the Swan-Class. Only the insertion tool was made of a screw and two screw-nuts.

 
For securing the nails I used white clue and think that it works.

 
 
The Main-Wale is coloured with black stain. Mark gave me this advice in my build of the Leopard and it works very well.

Hello,
thank you very much for your kind words and the comments.
Here I show the continuation of rigging the carronades.

 

Thank you Nigel for nice words.
I can only agree with that

Jürgen,
 
why do you install ribbands and plank the side?