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Mirabell61

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  1. Mirabell61
    Thank you very much Mike, I`m just trying to get the portholes ( 6mm OD )in line with the lettering, and must arrange them so that I drill the borings clear of the frames. Also the outside diam. of the portholes must be centered in the letter-spaces without damaging them too much. Made a small dummy for the check. The white decal letters must be brought in very precice positions to the hull. Hope it works Nils 20 mm high lettering. The brass portholes will be prior painted in red hull-color, glassed an then pushed into the 4 mm holes
  2. Mirabell61
    Hi Richard, I had a look at your splended and wonderful build of the Bluenose (in progress ) for several times already. It keeps me reminded to my 1:75 Billing Boats model of the Bluenose gloucester fisher I was excited for, after seeing the movie " The World in his Arms ", featuring amoungst others Gregory Peck and Anthony Quin long, long ago as skippers, both masters of two of these ships, and in a spetacular breathtaking Bluewater-race, hard at the wind, in the Pacific ocean at the edge of limits Nils
  3. Mirabell61
    Hi John and Uwe, Thanks very much for your kind words John, I hope I`ll get along as well for the rest of the deal Uwe, as a Hamburg area citizen I know you are familier with the elbe 1, although this legend is not in duty any more Nils
  4. Mirabell61
    A wonderfull build B.E. are you having a glass or a plexiglass case in order ? Nils
  5. Mirabell61
    Nice progress Harry, I like the clean framing work, looking foreward to your planking Nils
  6. Mirabell61
    Thanks for your idea Veszett, I`ll keep that in mind ..... meanwhile I finished the semi gloss black part, nice clean paint borderline ( credit to Tamiya masking tape ), and removed the propeller before doing the paint job Nils
  7. Mirabell61
    Thank you very much Lefebvre, John and Richard, Lefebvre, yes, its a pitty that this happened, but that paint does not allow reasonable corrections after this happened during spraying. I already tried my best to mend it. John, I think I`ll leave it as is, because heavy paint corrections will make things worse. I`ll take it as a rough touch with the kay wall in the harbor longer ago Richard, now the time has come to start with the decals for ELBE 1 I did the masking off for the sub waterline black coating, and fitted the ships name and homeport with small 5mm high white sticker letters, that I had already bought earlier for this purpose. It worked well, and I had left the space on the hull rounding there without "rivets" Many, many thanks to you again for your kind help in encouraging me to do my own decals. I have received white decal paper for inc-jet printing, but am still eagerly waiting for the decal softener to arrive Nils the ship`s name is "Bürgermeister Oswald" and the homeport is the town Cuxhaven at the mouth of the Elbe river to date I hve had good results with Tamiya masking tape The painted bow-sprit bumpkin in place both waist railings are fitted both the stb. side hall-anchor and the mushroom-anchor are fitted
  8. Mirabell61
    Update except for the black underwater coating I´ve got the paint on. I think that I will never again apply this bright red signal coating. Once a mistake is made ( I sprayed over several tmes) it ca`nt be corrected propperly. Unfortunately I did not see that the paint started running on the far side. I did`nt hesitate to carefully wipe off the concerned area with a soft cloth, but the red paint had also solved the underneath primer. Now there are some ugly patches on the stb. side. Hopefully I`ll get that mended a bit later on, if not it will conncidered as wear effect, with other paints on other models I never ran into such trouble with the paint coat before, and I was so pleased that before that all had worked out well so far. Nils Port view and front view is all OK here the ugly patches (aft stb. and stb. mid side )
  9. Mirabell61
    phantastic James, a real gem to look at ... Nils
  10. Mirabell61
    Nice videos Eberhard, thanks for sharing, good old Swiss machinery .... Sorry for wrong and corrigated first name Nils
  11. Mirabell61
    Good day and thank you John, today its a bit warmer outside, and I think I`ll start with the painting of the hull outside under my carport today. Yesterday I did all the masking already, and I plan to do the syray coat of adhesion promoter (explosive fumes ! ) and the primer spray-coating. I`ll give the hull a day for curing out well, and then mark the waterline for spraying and prior limiting the upper bright red coat area. Nils
  12. Mirabell61
    Update the upper forecastle portholes are mounted after plating this area, and the Stb waist reling is dry fitted. Also the area for the sprit bumpkin and its fastening eyebolts and stays. Aft deck the template for the breakwater is being estimated for fit. I am eager to get all the hull-related plating complete in order to continue with the painting job and the ELBE 1 name decals. For making the decals I got a great support from another MSW fellow builder. Here credit and thanks go to "Retired Guy", Richard for all his help. That gave me confidence to try and make my own decals instead of using larger sticker letters ( problems with the structured hull surface ) Nils The Railing is from Aronaut- Modellbau in brass and nickel plated. the wooden fastening rail underneath is to get the correct hight the aft breakwater will be mounted in this area. The blank space in the plating ( aft round between the rails ) will take up the 5mm small sticker-letters for the name "Bürgermeister Oswald" and the homeport "Cuxhaven" after painting.
  13. Mirabell61
    Update yesterday I made the fastening (still removable) of the stb side anchor. Because when the forecastle-deck is on, there will be no more access to the fastening line (no visable chain here), and the line is running in a curved thin copper tube, leading the line to midship area where the end will be fastend using a spring to the frame somewhere. That gives a little springload to the line and keeps the anchor well in contact with the achor fairlead. Also in accordance with the plan drawing, a rather short bumpkin with fastening points, a handrail on top and an eyebolt to the ships stern frontside was made. Also a non spanable metal bupkin stay Nils here the anchor line, and the eyebolt (upper right side) for the waterstay copper lad-tube for the line the line goes to the mid ship for fastening with a spring. The plate with the 13mm boring will adjust the lighttower later on. The deck is in 4mm wide pine-strips and black pencil "caulking" at the plank contact lines waterstay with fastening points and topside handrail side anchor when pulled up and waterstay in dryfit
  14. Mirabell61
    Hi Richard and John, Richard I`ve sent you a PM this morning, relating to that issue.... John, its already the 6th ships plating I got out of that aluminiun original 50m foil roll, never thought it would last so long Nils
  15. Mirabell61
    Thank you very much Keith, I`m moving on with the plating, its almost completed ... Nils
  16. Mirabell61
    Thats a beautiful build Jeff, Congratulations to finishing this project. Your lightship is great. I like the superstructure and the fitting out very much. The lighting of the pictures is also very nice Nils
  17. Mirabell61
    a beautiful built launch B.E. I also much like the tpo be painted figurines Nils
  18. Mirabell61
    Hi Levebvre, the display capacity in my hobby office is exhausted for a longer time ago already. Because I favor a glas-casing for permanent dust protection, it takes even more space every time. Three ships have now already moved to our attic room office for this reason. My wife does not like shipmodels in the living areas of our home, and I have accepted that wish., so the lightship is probably the last one built in my shipyard. Perhaps there comes an oppertunity for selling the one or other some day for a fair price. Nils
  19. Mirabell61
    Thank you Lefebvre, as I`m retired from my profession many years already, I have much time for my hobby. I guess its appr. 15-20 hours per week, but my admiral keeps me going also for house and garden. Nils
  20. Mirabell61
    Hi and thank you Gary, many of the sequences have been performed with my previos models before, so I don`t have to spend too much time and headachs in thinking of how I shall do it. Here for example, I started with the plating today. New this time is the use of 10 mm wide Tamiya masking tape as a space holder, as I`m plating in "Belts" and need the better steady horizontal line for optical appeal The plates are cut from a self adhesive aluminium foil roll with a table paper guilutine. Poncing is done with a suitable double tooth wheel ( clock cock wheels) to the back of the protection paper before removing it. The foil thickness (without glue film) is 0,125 mm for best results Nils starting with the trick part in Basic the plates are 15 x 50 mm, The rows, apart by 10mm, and then a cover plating "belt" over the 10 mm wide horizontal gap. The platings are stagered to the next line above. a nice smooth hull surface provides a good ground for plating on 10 mm Tamiya distance holder, removed again before the covering, overlapping "belt is put on
  21. Mirabell61
    exellent work Simon, She`ll be a beauty, once she`s finished Nils
  22. Mirabell61
    many thanks Richard and John, Richard, the lightmast, still to be finished, was not so easy as I had thought ..... John, I`ll do my best for the further build .... Yesterday I made a first dummy trial for painting, plating, attaching of an obsolete 20 mm high letter. The bright light red color is RAL 2026 in silk-gloss, that is the one used on german fire-brigade and civil rescue vehicles. Nils I am a bit suspicious about the permanent sticking quality of the letters on a structured plating background. In the moment it seems to work .... The black sub waterline color is a silicone based black thermo-coating paint used for oventubes, etc.
  23. Mirabell61
    amazing work Ian, well done ! Nils
  24. Mirabell61
    Update Hull is all smoothened out and aft rounding rails (brass halfround) are mounted. The other rails will be from halfround nutwood strips. All is ready for metal plating now. Am preparing for railings, starting with forecastle deck. First dry fit for foremast and lightmasttower Nils rounding rails fitted. These are bent to shape, so that there is hardly no stress for springback when glueing on, also to avoid messing with the glue (CA) a bit of wood filler will do to smoothen curves masts in dryfit checking railing hight, the railing for the forecastle is a special bit ( 400mm length ) I found on the web, as the last available piece. It is of chemical etching and the brass has 0,6mm thickness, that appr. twice the thickness as I used on my Ergenstrasse rails. Unfortunately the source company does not exist any more, what a pitty. This railing type can be inserted into prior drilled holes of 0,8mm diam, and the hight of the top line therefore adjusted to the required hight, I will solder on mini washers as stopper on to the fastening posts, so that the chosen hight can be permanently fixed for 1:87 H0 figurines after glueing in. I wish I could get more of this railing type Here a dummy with the desired hight here are the fist two templates for the aft round metal plating
  25. Mirabell61
    beautiful work Siggi, lovely fitting out of the panels Nils

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