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Mirabell61

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Everything posted by Mirabell61

  1. thank you Geert, I also used a wet cloth for wiping off surplus glue before it cured on the wood. The point is that the "stains" appeear when liquid wood primer is applied to the areas, even there where one thought that they had been removed........ Here is a little removable jig to hold down the rudder from pushing up from the stern hinges In the small baltic shipyard two "Zeesener"fishermen are just inspecting their new boat being built Nils preventer bracket (removable) father fisherman..., with the new ordered boat in build... together with his son, next generation, who will be the new skipper both in scale "G" 1:24
  2. Thanks Ab, yes, you`re right, I also experienced stains on the wood due to use of white glue. I`m still intending to check with every visible plank (outside) to remove the stains by sanding carefuly. I tried to avoid larger stains by using the white glue sparsely and also because the horizontal overlapping lines will be nailed and quench locked from the inside hull, but that will be done after the inside framework is put in place Nils
  3. Rudder and tiller, the rudder will be operated by the helmsman either in standing or in sitting mode. The fittings (pintles and gudgeons) will be made from flat brass... Nils tiller turned around 180° all in pear wood
  4. Thank you very much Marcus, meanwhile also the sternpost with outcut for the prop, and to take up the rudder-blade assembly has been fixed. On the bottom line the false keel will now be fitted.... Nils Sternpost fixed with outcut for propellor
  5. With reference to my post# 48, this is showing how the false bow post fits to the hull.... Nils
  6. Top rendering job QiGang, Would like to learn more about this planed kit Nils
  7. Thank you Geert, yes, I think its a bout the scale you built your "Ostend Shrimper" in.... Nils
  8. Thank you very much Peta, I also wish you much fun and a good sucsess with your "Tender Avos" build (I love that cutter kit). The already completed ships boats look fantastic Nils
  9. thats exactly the way I`m doing it Eberhard, the difference will not be seen later on, except that it saved me a lot of time (planklengths cutting several times) during the planking session. My Chebec bow post was also done in this way... Nils
  10. Today I`m taking the clinker planked hull off the "one way" plug.... for the first time Eagerly awaiting this moment, all worked out as intended and the raw hull is an extreme lightweight... A pitty that the quite well built plug is now sacreficed and destroyed, but it was worth it. The hull is rigid and form-stabil, even without the framework. As the horizontal plankseams are layed in a thin white glue line. The horizontal nailingswith clenching counters wil merely be cosmetic afterwards Now reinforcement knees have to be fitted between the keel and stern- and bow posts, as well as (from the outside) false keel and false bow- and stern posts.... Nils removal from the build board rough planking prior to fairing and fine tuning marking the positions of the plugs contruction bulkheads inside the hull it looks a bit like a double-ender lifeboat the waterline at stern provides a deeper submerged portion of the hull than at bow
  11. still going onward with the planking, planks pear wood, 2 mm thick, 15 mm wide...., 2,5 - 3 mm overlapping it takes quite some time for the white glue (Ponal Express) to cure, but 2-3 planks can be done per day. As the keel, and the two stem posts are only screwed to the plug it should be easy to remove the construction from the plug by loosening the screws. Depending on how "flexible" the empty hull shall be, I may have to add some preliminary spreaders into it, before the out-stiffening frames get fixed to the inside planking....The model is now 48 cm long Nils three more planks to go on this half side port half (8 Planks) raw planking completed, every plank will be faired and transition areas keel and the posts will be smoothend out accordingly this will be the brass prop, 20 mm Diam. together with an M3 spindle in a brass tube with 4 mm OD, allthough it is not intended to set the model into water later on... it showed that the plugs gued on "sheer stringers" had to be additionally screwed down to the plugs bulkheads, due to the clamping spring forces additional screws here...
  12. Good morning Martin, you`re right , the wet wood was not planed, but the shaped wooden planks were before wetting. I even had a new bought temp-controlled hot air dryer handy if necessary, to keep the plank-twist to the plug bulkheads without too much resistance. Its a 2000 Watt power with selectable 80° - 600° pesetting temp. The wet pear wood bends very well, so I did`nt use the hot air dryer yet. Cheers, Nils keel area from the inside... bow area stern area 4 planks on port side already mounted towards bow and stern the plank widths were tapered a bit to appr. 70% of the mid ships plank width 2000 Watt air dryer
  13. Thanks to all for the likes.... here go the first 3 planks. There is quite a twist resistance to compensate, so wetting in water is best. The pearwood planks behave well (Once wetted) under twist and do not break A feedback for Bruce : Tapering the slopes (partial contact surfaces at Bow- and sternpost) was better to chip away with the chisel that with the mini plane which provided less good results Nils the backside of a sawblade acting as a guide ruler
  14. Thank you very much Bruce, for the mini plane (my post #21), I`m still intending to use it when I start the lapstraking with the planks, by bringing the plank-ends surfaces flush to bow- and stern posts...., shall give more feedback then... Nils
  15. Good day, have finaly received the pearwood timbers after a long waiting period.... Am now starting to place keel, bow stem and stern stem parts to the plug. Am unsing mini screws to fix the parts into place, until the first planks will give more stability to the hull shell Nils Bowpost Sternpost Keel outcut for centerboard
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