Mirabell61

nice work Nenad,
 
I also like your scetches when you plan and bring your thoughts and ideas to paper...
 
Nils

nice work Nenad,
 
I also like your scetches when you plan and bring your thoughts and ideas to paper...
 
Nils

I appreciate your visit, Nils...Come again and watch my mistakes.  Nice to meet you.
Charlene

Hello David
 
Just a improvisation - lazy and impatient Nenad. It can be done much much better with brass wire and a bit of soldering
 
Here is "the last technology" process
 

 
I hope you can manage in my fast hand drawing

Windows, testing



On place

Step forward

Thanks for checking in, Ken, your gracious comment is timely as I was just about to post the latest.  So here goes.
 
I glued the cyphers on with the tiniest drop of pva I could get with the point of a pin, and generally it was still too much.  Before attaching them, I bent them into a rounded shape to match the barrels by squeezing them with some metal crimpers I found in the back of my drawer.  They actually needed even more bending than I thought they would, but that did end up being essential to getting them to stay on the barrel.
 
As expected, the blackening process required multiple dowsings, with cleaning in between.  (No photos of this process, sorry -- it mostly entailed soaking in the blackening solution -- Blacken It -- drying, cleaning with mineral spirits, soaking again, etc.)  After knocking of several cyphers -- and these little things are impossible to recover after a "fly off" -- by daubing spirits on them or trying to scrape around them with a soft brush, I cut my losses and resorted to a diluted black paint.
 
                                                      
I was afraid that even when thinned, the paint would conceal the cypher, but as you can see it does show up.  (Well, ok, when showing it off to the Missus, I had to hand over my Opti-visor; but she was impressed.)
 
As for the touch holes, they were too long, and overlapped the back most ring.  When I tried timming them, I just made them look ugly.  So the touch holes on these guns will require a certain effort by the Mind's Eye.
 
For the cap squares I cut narrow strips of card that I then blackened and bent over a drill bit to form the trunnion, and then glued them onto the tops of the brackets.  I wanted to add joint bolts, so following BE's lead, I simply cut some 26 gauge blackened wire loops in half, drilled one hole through the very back of the cap square and another just behind, and set the wire in there, 
 
Here's the result:
 
                                                        
 
FFM shows an eyebolt at the front of the cap square which has a considerably different shape, since the cap square would fit over it as a latch.  In the drawing, this appears as squared eyebolt.  I didn't want to go with another round eyebolt, as I thought that would be too big.  Finally I hit on the idea of bending a piece of wire over the edge of an old exacto blade, and here's what I got:
 
                                                        
If you look really closely, I mean really, you can make out a sort of flattened loop at the very top of that wire.  I was feeling pretty happy with this solution, until I started drilling through the front of the cap square.  Again, no photo, but this is because it's just too horrible to show:  I guess the space in the front is small enough that the action of the drill bit pulled up the card, twisted it, and effectively ruined  my cap square.  I tried again after coating the card with Humbrol, thinking that would harden it.  But no.  So far, then, no eyebolts in the front.  And maybe that's ok, since I don't have any ultra-thin chain anyway.
 
But that's where I've managed to get in these days of too many committee meetings.  And now that the leaves have all fallen in the back yard, my weekend will probably be spent mulching them then griping about my aching back. 
 

 
Cheers,
 
Martin

Thank you Tadeusz,
 
for sharing all those lovely Pictures, it`s been a delight to go through them
 
Nils

Denis,
 
nice Progress there, I`m admiring that you have the Patience to thorrowly do all the small Detail work, the painting of pipes and deck Fittings etc. and get all These parts to look so fine before you start with further Assembling. The result proves you are doing it absolutely right - a beautiful ship-
 
Nils

Thank you very much Bob,
 
I`m trying to Keep the upper hull rails clean and in natural wood appeal whilst applying the black paint without messing, and with help of the Tamiya tape masking it really works very well...
 
Nils
 

Many thanks to Dan, Patrick, Pete and John,
 
and all the "likes", for your appreciations,
 
Dan,
he`s just calling the dry dock crane Operator for Attention......
 
Patrick,
nice comment, thanks...
 
Pete,
I do hope that the badges will not fade out (UV light) on the photo paper..
 
John,
yore always wellcome John, glad you like it..
 
 
Nils

Build log part 25
 
 
the portholes are not fitted yet, (to be mounted after final painting of hull), but the hull is drilled in the oppropriate places, and the upper two rows will have "eyebrows", to keep the porthole glasses clear
 
The unsymmerical tubing for the aft anchorchain is set and stb-side has the upper bow-decoration attached
 
Nils
 

 
I am satisfied with the dull black hull color
 
 

 
front bow decoration as shown / made in the last post
 
 

 
the number of portholes and positions are corresponding with the overview drawing
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

Nice work Bob! She's looking great. 

I've now finished off the work at the bow with the addition of the hawse plates and the remaining moldings.
 
The hawse plates themselves are simple, but getting the holes through them, particularly for the bowsprit, proved tricky. All of the holes must be done parallel with the keel and at the proper angle. The large size of the bowsprit hole made this critical.To be cautious, I drilled a hole no more than half the required size for the bowsprit, and then used round files to open it out to the full size. It became a matter of filing and fitting until I could just get a dowel of the diameter of the bowsprit at that point through the hole at the proper alignment and angle. This was a tedious process.
 
After finishing that work, I added the remaining moldings to the hull side and the cap rail edge, including the little molding extensions that Chuck has called "ears". The ears required a couple of tries to get them right. I finished up this work by giving the entire cap rail two additional coats of black paint.
 
Next, I am beginning the deck planking process by doing the margin planks and waterway.
 
Bob
 
 

beautiful build Vic,
 
the Stern rounding Windows look excellent...
 
Nils

ok......still much touching up to do...which i like doing......so i start the rigging now......guess i won't bother posting much anymore....much tedious rigging stuff to do.......at least tedious for me:)...............grateful to have seen some of the wonderful builds here, which were inspiring me to try and make a better effort......but we all have our limitations ...anyways, cheers..................

Hi Vic,
 
As always, a wonderfully clean and beautiful build and great to see her starting to gain some height in the last shot.
 
I hope you keep posting to show us your progress on the rigging. I know I've been looking forward to watching this!
 
Cheers,
 
Nigel.

Thanks druxey, Ed and Nils!

beautiful Work Michael,
 
that Skylight Looks great.
 
Nils

Thank you very much Bob,
 
I`m trying to Keep the upper hull rails clean and in natural wood appeal whilst applying the black paint without messing, and with help of the Tamiya tape masking it really works very well...
 
Nils
 

beautiful Work Michael,
 
that Skylight Looks great.
 
Nils

Denis,
 
nice Progress there, I`m admiring that you have the Patience to thorrowly do all the small Detail work, the painting of pipes and deck Fittings etc. and get all These parts to look so fine before you start with further Assembling. The result proves you are doing it absolutely right - a beautiful ship-
 
Nils

Thank you very much Bob,
 
I`m trying to Keep the upper hull rails clean and in natural wood appeal whilst applying the black paint without messing, and with help of the Tamiya tape masking it really works very well...
 
Nils
 

Denis,
 
nice Progress there, I`m admiring that you have the Patience to thorrowly do all the small Detail work, the painting of pipes and deck Fittings etc. and get all These parts to look so fine before you start with further Assembling. The result proves you are doing it absolutely right - a beautiful ship-
 
Nils

beautiful Work Michael,
 
that Skylight Looks great.
 
Nils