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Kevin-the-lubber

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Everything posted by Kevin-the-lubber

  1. Kevin-the-lubber
    That's the one, I bought two at the same time as you but couldn't remember what lpi they are. Hopefully 4 lengths will be enough.
  2. Kevin-the-lubber
    I think the revell Beagle is a reworking of this, isn't it.
  3. Kevin-the-lubber
    Yes, I've spotted that. I'm not sure yet what I'll do in respect of the cables but provided I can source small enough chain I'll use that where indicated. I revisited the discussion, possibly on Bruma's build, last weekend, so know 40+ LPI is out there. I'm kind of planning on furled sails; not tight to, and on top of, the yards as per Rib's Glory but reefed (?) up loosely underneath (there's probably a term for this). But this is the loosest of plans, hinges on whether I'm able to make a fist of Maurice's (Blue Ensign) method of sail making.
  4. Kevin-the-lubber
    By the way, I did a little experiment; drilled a small hole in the bottom of a deadeye and superglued in a piece of thin brass rod. It's rock solid, so having the rod/wires glued into a similar hole in the waterways at the other end should mean there's no strain at all on the pinrails. I don't know how I keep missing things in the Campbell plans, the fourth boat (a little jolly boat) is upside down inbetween the two lifeboats. I may have a go at scratch building this presently.
  5. Kevin-the-lubber
    Received my Amati rope set from hismodel today. It all looks quite rope-like to me though at the smaller sizes you'd need the eyes of a hawk to spot this. It's all polyester as far as I can see, apart from the very, very thin one on the white reel which is nylon. It looks much the same as the smaller white rope that came with the Heller Victory (the larger one on that kit is more braided), and much the same as the two beige ropes that came with this CS kit. I wouldn't say I'm blown away but neither am I disappointed. I think Bill (Bill97) went for similar quality on his Victory and that looks great to me so I'm sure this will be the same. However, I think I will probably get one or two of the smaller sizes from Syren just to see if there is that much difference. In other news, I'm messing around with photo-stacking (not very successfully so far) and picking up on the pinrails again as I'm a bit bored fiddling around with the deck furniture, which I know is just a subconscious device to avoid the tricky pinrails. I'm glad I've delayed though, as all this procrastination has spawned a plan.
  6. Kevin-the-lubber
    Re' the deadeyes, I'm planning to reeve these off the ship, using some sort of jig, and then dropping the wires (that we've discussed previously) of the lower deadeyes into their respective holes in the pinrail. Is that not going to work?
  7. Kevin-the-lubber
    I’ll second that. It also had me looking again at the museum model you posted; I too want a fairly busy looking deck by the end of the process but haven’t yet given much thought to how I’ll achieve this. I’m not too keen on making loads of figurines but they do give the model some life. About as far as I’ve got is to have some random coils of rope and other ‘stuff’ dotted around. What are your own plans? In that vein, I’ve wondered and wondered where the fourth, missing from the kit, ships boat would have gone. On the quarterdeck cabin roof perhaps?
  8. Kevin-the-lubber
    I have more pairs of glasses than model kits and only this morning have been re-trying random pairs to see what works best this week. I’d almost give my right arm to not need glasses for close work, but as I actually need three arms, going down to just one would be a major setback. If Darwin was right, maybe we’ll eventually evolve a spare: one to hold the piece, one to hold the screw, one to take the drill from between the knees while not dropping the screw or piece. And if it could be an extra long size that’d be nice. Marc, I think where you are really making the difference is in your eye for the part, and then the finishing. Even I could probably rough out some of these parts in a 2D fashion, but seeing the compound angles and relationships is a special skill - I for one would probably have a workbench littered with discarded attempts, if I even had the patience. And then the finishing, because all of that careful smoothing is what brings it to life, makes it a miniature sculpture rather than a small block of hacked plastic, along with the paintwork. As I’ve said before, I could certainly make these parts using 3D modelling, but I’m not at all convinced I could give them any life with that as the process. It’s that engineering vs art conundrum and your work is very much in the latter camp.
  9. Kevin-the-lubber
    Leo, if there's one thing all of us modellers must have in common it's patience. We'd go mad otherwise 🙄. I'll feed back over on my log when it arrives. My own thinking was that until I've seen what's on the market I'd have nothing to compare with, but also, if good rope is not too expensive, I'd just be giving myself another distraction for no good reason.
  10. Kevin-the-lubber
    I very much doubt you'll be disappointed. While there, note how cheap the amati rope set is for the Cutty. I don't yet know if it's any good, until it arrives in another few days but it seemed like a very good deal to me.
  11. Kevin-the-lubber
    I thought he might but didn't like to presume. I like dealing with people like him, micro businesses, would much rather buy from these than keep lining Mr Bezos pockets. This is the transfer sheet. As you can see, the yellow backing peels off from the translucent film. This is tacky rather than sticky (as would be the case for scotch tape). I wouldn't mind betting that you can get a few placements done with it. I guess you could also use that tacky-but-not-sticky translucent tape you see in stationery stores but this looks better. It also appears easy to source more transfer tape or paper. I like the thinking behind this, I also have fat fingers and this process should make it a little easier to get the placing just right. But I'll practice on scrap stuff with CA gel first as I'm sure you need to get the smallest dots to avoid it squeezing out. I expect too that you can use this transfer sheet to hold the ornament in place while the glue sets i.e. the glue can have a longer setting time, which is good. I use medium setting as my default but still have to be quick about it.
  12. Kevin-the-lubber
    This is what I got. I imagine the yellow sheet is the transfer sheet. Also a pic of the samples, the sail hooks (or whatever they are called) are especially nice . I'm so glad you posted those instructions, in all honesty it hadn't occurred to me to look on the site nor to paint the supports black etc before glueing.
  13. Kevin-the-lubber
    Also take a look in your local garden centre, watering trays come in all sorts of sizes. I find the thermal covers quite good for the smell as well, though in my case I use them more to keep the temperature up and the dust out.
  14. Kevin-the-lubber
    Commiserations. I'm not at that stage yet but can see it being tricky. If you contact heller in germany they will probably send you a new sheet of decals, at least they did for me. It took maybe 6 weeks and in between times, as I didn't hear back, I bought the hismodel PE. I don't remember exactly how I contacted them, it was probably through finding a support/spares link on their website. But I'm also sure hismodel will give you some advice, he appears to be an enthusiast.
  15. Kevin-the-lubber
    That looks good, do you mean the type where you mix the two tubes e.g. araldite?
  16. Kevin-the-lubber
    I'll give them a go presently. White is my bugbear - always seems to require too many coats. The pens I'm using aren't sharpies or ordinary felt tips, they are Posca acrylic paint pens. Whether there's any real difference (other than price - they are of course pricey) I don't know.
  17. Kevin-the-lubber
    Well Ian, if you ever get tempted you know where to come for a pair of cat's heads. I should have mentioned, as the STL is freely shared by the museum I'd assume there's no issue with me sharing my re-working of it, so anyone who wants it, just send me a PM.
  18. Kevin-the-lubber
    To you bcochran - earlier in the log you mentioned you were using decals for the lozenges and, I think, white side stripes. DIY decals are another thing I mean to try out sooner or later and was just wondering if you made yours yourself and, if so, what products did you use? I also have the hismodel etch so am listening closely to this conversation. It's such a critical piece and I'd hate to make a mess of glueing it on. I've wondered about spray mounting adhesive, like 3M SprayMount Permanent Spray Adhesive. I've not had much luck with the 'glue the centre, then work along' method. I tried that with my deck but found it difficult to get tiny amounts of CA behind the object without some getting on the edge. Might be easier with the PE, but I'd also be concerned about it ending up with small ripples through being bent back. I'll probably experiment with the blank first.
  19. Kevin-the-lubber
    I managed to get a few hours for modelling today. I think we have too many beds and borders in our garden for my age now, they seem to eat up every available hour and the weeds regenerate as soon as my back is turned. Anyway, today has been more foredeck work, particularly the catheads, along with a little experimentation on the lines of using acrylic paint pens rather than airbrushing. I like that no detail gets lost and, even though these photos make it seem otherwise, the gold comes out a lot smoother than normal painting. I'm a little undecided about the black, it does seem to take on that bronze-ish, metallic hue that you get with ink. Regarding the pictures, photography is a cruel mistress and the lines you see on the parts are not actually readily visible in real life. They are layer lines, an artifact of resin printing. I could probably reduce them or just lightly brush with emery. I've left the brass 'sheave bolt' in it's natural colour for now, as I kind of like it. Might blacken it in due course. These catheads may not be the final objects as this particular resin is a bit too soft and the whiskers are quite bendy. Even as I write the alternatives have just finished printing so I'll compare presently. I only went so far with the anchor release, there's micro detail and barking mad detail. I did tinker a little with the cat's head file downloaded from the museum, just plugged the bolt holes and accentuated the eyes, mouth and nose. Though at only 3mm square you'll need the eyes of a hawk to see that.
  20. Kevin-the-lubber
    Microscale - which reminds me - did you make the decals yourself?
  21. Kevin-the-lubber
    I'm planning on doing the Kearsage after this, in between resuming work on the Victory. But I'll be content to complete the CS this year, if that's not too ambitious.
  22. Kevin-the-lubber
    I like that (the wheelhouse). I got hold of a copy of Longridge and have been doing some reading up this weekend, usual case for me, make it, then read how I got it wrong. You're quite right about the colour scheme and I have a feeling the white on the cabins may give more shape and texture to the model. But I don't think I could face painting over my faux teak. Reading Longridge also explains a few oddities with the kit, such as the forward hatch being in the line of the chains, and there being one too many fife rails at the foremast. I'd make a mess of plugging the holes now so will probably leave it as is. I've been in need of something like pledge; I can make very precise translucent windows etc, but would like a method to make them transparent, so I'll add this to the memory bank.
  23. Kevin-the-lubber
    That’s a lot more than quite reasonable Alan, I’d be extremely pleased with that. Same for the life raft.
  24. Kevin-the-lubber
    Thanks, as I said over on yours, there's an awful lot of trial and error underneath the parts and if you have the luxury (and patience) of being able to easily remake and remake, sooner or later you're bound to come up with something reasonable. I'm hoping that over time I'll build up a bank of knowledge that will allow me to eventually get things right first time. Cross-referencing with yours, I bought 0.3mm jewellery making wire on ebay, there were lots of sizes and metal colours and it's quite cheap, I just went for gold and will either blacken or whiten. Shipman, although I half-dread it, I'm looking forward to getting to the rigging. Half of the reason I'm so tentative about glue-ing things in place is because I can't yet visualise how the many ropes lie, so don't have a workflow plan. That's uncomfortable territory for an engineering type like me, I'm used to being able to see the whole in my mind and follow my own logical sequence and imagine that the hull and furniture were to a large extent designed around the rigging rather than vice versa. For instance I'll be placing the deadeyes in the pinrails according to Campbell rather than Revell. Will the difference in positioning matter? At this point I have no idea.
  25. Kevin-the-lubber
    I think I may do the same, I have some very thin wire which might work for this. Are the belay pins too long, short or just plain out of proportion, which is the impression I get from photos? I've made a load but haven't attached them to anything yet.

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