Kevin-the-lubber
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Everything posted by Kevin-the-lubber
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I saw the discussion about the belay pins but not what was wrong with them?- 481 replies
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- Cutty Sark
- Revell
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I completely get that; I think for me, given that this is my first attempt to build a model properly (I'm not counting the parked Victory) and I simply don't yet know enough about the whole process, or sailing ships, it'll be enough to be able to look at it afterwards and feel it was a decent effort. Even at this stage there are things I'd do differently next time - my deck colour is one of them - it was intentional and I like it well enough, but doubt I'll go in this direction again, in part because I've learned a little about model painting along the way. 3D printing is just a tool, it allows me to learn from my mistakes and learn about the parts. Behind those finished items are a heck of a lot of binned versions and if I was building this straight out of the box I'd either have given up by now or been too embarrassed to maintain a build log. However, the 3D process itself can get quite boring and time-consuming as half the battle is finding ways to print what you design. I'm also going to do the deadeyes and rigging from scratch as I don't like the kit parts at all. I wasn't going to do the stanchions to the pinrail, was going to more or less replicate the gussets as I'm fearful that the rails might not be strong enough for the rigging, but I might rethink that as it definitely looks better having stanchions. I'm amazed that you got such a fine, thin coat of gold from a rattle can. After seeing yours it occurred to me to try a gold paint pen and wish I'd used that.
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- Cutty Sark
- Revell
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Hi Hans, thanks for the compliment but, as you rightly observe, that took me forever and, for the time being anyway, killed my interest in working on the Victory. Don't get me wrong, I'm not at all evangelistic about F360 and will change horses in a heartbeat when I'm ready to take on another learning curve, not least because I really dislike the trend towards subscriptions, aka 'renting'.
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Thanks again Shipman, I bookmarked probably every existing revell 1/96 build back when I started (including of course Bruma's) but it never occurred to me to check for new starters. My philosophy is 'I dont really know what I'm doing so I'll just do whatever seems right on the day' 🙄. And that really is the honest truth. I'm not a very methodical researcher, I just don't enjoy that side very much, probably because my day job involves reading and writing endless, dry papers. So I just steal nuggets from those of you that do, or if something catches my eye I'll follow through! In other words, I'm a bit of a magpie. Even this too high deck business - I'm less concerned with it being historically inaccurate as that it means I can't install an 'in yer face' windlass! Anyway, glad your enjoying both logs, slightly bogged down here right now as I have too many competing things going on and haven't got solutions for the foredeck area clear enough in my head yet, but still managing to maintain a bit of forward progress.
- 444 replies
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- Cutty Sark
- Revell
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Thanks for the linking, Shipman! Hello bcochran, you are ripping along with yours at an impressive pace, especially given all the fine modifications you're including. I'm a veritable snail by comparison. I've picked up several good ideas from yours - decals for the lozenges etc, what a smart idea. I'm replacing the whole of the pinrail with a 3D printed version in which I'd included the lozenges, but it still needs a bit of work on those so if that doesn't work out too well I now have a plan B. I also chopped out the wedges/gussets even though there are a few on the real thing; though I'm not sure if these are original as they look very crudely made. Can I ask what you used to colour the binnacle? Yours is a much better finish than mine, on which I used vallejo gold paint. I couldn't bring myself to spend £80 on a wood deck when the kit itself only cost me £40, so re-made it. I realised today that the kit has it set about 4mm - 5mm too high. I'm re-making quite a lot of parts while trying to avoid over-obsessing, as you rightly say, all the fun can go out of it if you spend too long on detail. I'm also absolutely fearful of rigging, having never done this, and I'm avoiding glueing stuff down for as long as possible until I can see what would be better left until later. I'm just finishing up on the catheads as we speak, and those may well be in the 'later' category. Incidentally, if you have access to resin printing take a look at my latest page, in case you're interested in adding an easy micro-detail (the cat's head).
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- Cutty Sark
- Revell
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I've been trying to get the windlass to look right compared to the real thing, and finally realised why I'm chasing my tail on this one: shock, horror, the main deck on the Revell is sat about 4 or 5 mm too high. This bears out when compared to both the real ship and Campbell plans and a number of oddities now make more sense. When I was roughing out the pinrails I seemed to have very little height to play with for the oval recesses in the woodwork above the rail (still work in progress); I couldn't get the proportions of the chicken coops to map to the real thing, and the bad news for the crew is that it's budgie for dinner on this particular ship, don't eat it all at once; and I can't give the windlass the girth it should have, so a bit more elbow please, all round. This also explains why the cabins etc have seemed to sit a bit high. Oh well, I'm too far along the way to do anything about this now, though as I remade the deck I wish I'd spotted this earlier.
- 444 replies
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- Cutty Sark
- Revell
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Same here, and I’m glad you’ve reminded me of the existence of styrene; I had honestly entirely forgotten to think about that for a bit I’m fighting to make at the moment. Even resin printing will still have you scratching your head at times.
- 460 replies
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- Flower-class
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I thought about that myself, or rather, making one, but as I need some rope fairly soon and the Amati kit is so reasonably priced, I’ll give that a go. I’ve never seen proper miniature rope in the flesh so am keen to see how it compares to what comes with the kits. I will, however, either buy or make a serving machine.
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Something nice but a bit silly that I stumbled across after spotting gold paint on the ends of the catheads and going googling. What else would you find there, other than a.... cat's head. Readily downloadable as an STL from Dumbarton museum. I've just resized and am in the process of trying to apply some paint while keeping the detail. Obviously no-one will ever even realise that's what's there, but as it's there, why not. Added a slightly better photo
- 444 replies
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- Cutty Sark
- Revell
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What a coincidence(ish). Back in early 1980's I also tried to make a living from photography. My bread and butter - and that was about all I could afford by way of food - was school year pics, you know, one frame per child, good or not, because film was pricey, you couldn't charge much and most people wouldnt buy anyway. I did the odd wedding for friends but hated that people would say 'but my photo of that scene is a bit better'. Well, yes, it would be as I set the shot up and you pounced in front of me to get yours first, stealing the mood. Never mind. My nadir came when I moved into college graduation shots, using a full studio setup. I took the most beautiful set of the most beautiful daughter of the most beautiful family on my gorgeous Mamiya 2 1/4" square, got home, opened the camera to process the film and.... yes, you guessed, no film. The rest of the story makes me shudder even now. It didn't go well. As none of this is what I actually enjoyed doing - arty still lifes and wildlife - I quit at that point. Since coming back to modelling my interest has been rekindled a little as I still love a really great photo; last week I bought some quite powerful LED worklights as these are much cheaper than 'photography' lights, and once I've figured out how to tether and control the camera from the computer I'll start playing with focus stacking.
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Nice rails. In fact, very nice rails 😀. After wasting a lot of time, effort and plastic on trying to make everything printed I now think it’s way better to just print stuff where that solves a problem but use other materials where better and this is a bgreat example of that.
- 460 replies
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- Flower-class
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Looking good. You’ve reminded me that I really need to paint my trophy of arms at some point!
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Just follow the links to either my victory or Cutty sark log. Page 4 on the victory log will show you an assembly comprising about 60 interdependent parts, all done in the one file so I could develop them in situ, so to speak and view them individually, just some, or all, at will. But there are way, way better examples of f360 out there than my work. I wouldn’t say f360 is easy, more that multi component is just there by design so that is easy. As are all the functions like combining, cutting, intersecting and apart from when I’ve used it for meshes, I don’t ever have non-manifold issues, just design, export as an stl and print. Thinking back, I think actually that the reason I went with f360 was because there are so many good tutorials and I happened upon one set in particular that had me up and running in about an hour, having previously given up trying to learn it intuitively. I know there are tons of tutorials for rhino as well but it looks like you need to spend many hours being taught the basics before you can get going. As Richard says, there’s still quite a learning curve with f360, but I sense that this is probably true of all powerful cad packages. For me the difficulty has been less that of learning how to use this or that functionality, which is generally obvious once you’ve learned the basics, but how to work around the limitations and flaws. Would I pay to use f360? Certainly not what they charge and part of the reason I should explore alternatives is because I can see autodesk charging even hobbyists at some point. But as a free (at this time) option it’s pretty good.
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There’s the irony; I often get better shots myself using my cheapo Chinese phone, but know I should be able to knock spots off these with a dslr.
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You're absolutely right - I don't know why I originally read it as 2 weeks. In which case I may give it a look. I liked everything I heard about rhino, but unlike f360, when I started playing it was just unintuitive, maybe this is better.
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Photo stacking is when you take a series of photos focussed on different points of the object (front to back) from a fixed viewpoint i.e. a tripod. You then 'stack' these in some software whirligig which combines them to produce a single image with everything in focus. Apparently it's quite common in macro photography such as we all do on our models and, which I don't understand, landscapes. I suffered a one hour monologue on why I should spend at least £1500 in order to do this from a sales assistant in a camera shop last weekend, but will try the zero cost but my time and patience method first. You can probably afford to skip the bother of learning this as you already seem to get everything in focus effortlessly 😊. But you may want to hang on to that Olympus. BTW, proper film photography is apparently back in fashion though quite niche.
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Ian, your photos are usually of a very high quality - are you focus stacking? I ask because mine are generally a bit rubbish and it grieves me that my daughter gets better results with her dinky phone camera than I get with a nikon and posh glass!
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Some of this is going over my head as a relative novice with only a year or so of 3D modelling experience. But across just about everything covered in the last 2 or 3 posts I’m thinking ‘but I can do that quite easily in F360’. Of course ‘easily’ is a relative term here. Or am I missing the point? That’s not at all to say F360 is a panacea for 3D solid ship modelling, it has almost had me in tears of frustration at times, especially around patterning and lofting, but multipart assemblies are by and large quite straightforward. I had a look at rhino a few months ago as I was particularly fed up with f360 at the time, but as it looked like another long and difficult learning curve I parked that for another time. MOI 3D sounds interesting but a two week trial is too short compared to rhino’s 3 months (or f360’s forever).
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Likewise never used tree supports, in fact had completely forgotten you can do that. I really dislike the mess of normal supports, so I must try trees. I wonder if that would allow the barrels to be printed vertically?
- 460 replies
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- Finished
- Flower-class
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That makes sense. Tea chests are relatively easy to manhandle, though the dummy wool sacks on display in the hold today look like they’d have been heavy work. But all the same, they’d have had to be moved around by hand in the hold.
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I think there are three, last seen creating mischief for Macbeth.
- 460 replies
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- Flower-class
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Yep, too many variables and too many opinions on the ‘right’ settings. If only we could all identify and tap into the one person who really knows it all inside out!
- 460 replies
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Looks like you’ll be back to having tradesman’s hands by the time you’ve got that finished Richard, that’s one big hull. But welcome back. I never understood tradespeople that ripped people off, but there are plenty of them out there.
- 445 replies
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- Union Steamship Company
- Stepcraft 840
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Were you supposed to paint it, stain it or something?
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I’ve bought it (Amati) from Hismodel, think I get something like 7 sizes tailored to the Cutty, and it really wasn’t that expensive at about £22 for the set plus a little bit of postage. It’ll take 2 or 3 weeks to arrive but I’m fine with that. Thanks for the compliment, this model really lends itself to little tweaks, being a relatively simple kit.
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