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Kevin-the-lubber

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Everything posted by Kevin-the-lubber

  1. Kevin-the-lubber
    The fife rails tip is one thing that really lodged in my head. Is CA gel the same as CA thick? Or even thicker?
  2. Kevin-the-lubber
    Thanks, and sorry, I didn't mean to give you heart failure 😁. That settles it, Campbell it is then.
  3. Kevin-the-lubber
    The glue tip is going to be useful for me. Although I tried to make the new deck as close as possible there will still be some slight gaps here and there. You said it’s white glue, does it dry grey or did you paint it? Note to self: if I ever use my spare kit I’ll replace the entire waterway; this issue could be easily avoided by having the deck sitting on top of, rather than butting up to, the waterway, and be more true to the ship into the bargain.
  4. Kevin-the-lubber
    I got a few myself several years ago when I discovered our sterile services dept was throwing them away if they had the slightest damage. I wish now I'd been greedy and taken the whole crate.
  5. Kevin-the-lubber
    Looking good. Music wire is a good idea - it occurs to me that the thinner wound guitar strings might pass for served cables if blackened.
  6. Kevin-the-lubber
    Marc, I can’t take too much credit, the software has a handy gear generator and the rest is just simple engineering. It was a nice little side project as I’ve paused for a moment while I build a heated enclosure for the resin printers. I’m getting too many fails right now, which I think may be down to the garage always being a bit cold. This is a very simple machine to make and I’ll happily share the (scrappy) F360 / STL files with anyone that wants them.
  7. Kevin-the-lubber
    I’ve never done any casting, it’s another method that I must try sooner or later. PE still knocks spots off resin in terms of super thin parts, but I didn’t see anything in the Titanic resin add-ons that isn’t do-able on our home printers. However, as we’d all testify, there can be a lot of pain between do-able and done. For sure there are industrial grade resin printers out there like the big Formlabs, at a cost of £15k - £20k, but I suspect the difference is probably as much about the choice of resin and design work as the printer itself. However I can’t bring myself to spend £100 per litre and then some. I’d love to see a professional resin kit like those parts up close, see how they orientate and support. My impression is that their supports are beefier. You’re right that printing can be pretty slow. Even if I had all the parts done perfectly for the Cutty sark I expect it would take two or three weeks just to print them.
  8. Kevin-the-lubber
    Made myself a serving machine 🙄. I hedged my bets, gave myself the option of 1:1 gears and 1:2. The latter works fine. The gears are a bit noisy, even though it has bearings I found in a drawer, but serving is quite a relaxing thing to do, isn't it. I'll sort out those long set screws once I've found a bit of wood for the base.
  9. Kevin-the-lubber
    That makes sense, doesn't it. I did wonder how the the writer drew those conclusions but decided he knew a lot more about it than me. Re' enclosures: I've decided it's about time I got a stable temperature sorted out, after thinking on your earlier advice. My larger resin printer is on a worktop in the (usually quite cold) garage and I've been noticing more fails compared to the small one, which is in my warm office. So I've just bought a large kitchen base unit i.e. a big mdf box with doors, and a small thermostatically controlled greenhouse tube heater. That should do the job.
  10. Kevin-the-lubber
    To be honest, if I had your CNC machine I'd probably be using that instead of printing a lot of the time, I at least always know where I stand when working with wood or metal. However, printing has it's place. Only being able to print one at a time: I'd check my FEP tension, you can do this with various apps that measure the wavelength or something, but I just look for it to have a tinny pitch when I tap it with something. But be careful, it dents easily and if you get any pinholes it's a right PITA. Regarding curling etc, you can just heat the part in a cup of hot water and bring it back into shape, handy if, like these window frames, they're going to be glued to something substantial. I noticed on the spec for that CNC machine that it had the option for a filament printer head, have you done any of that? The scope, scale-wise, is huge, way bigger than the desktop printers. Some people pooh-pooh filament as not able to give anything like an acceptable finish for scale modelling and unable to do micro detail, but in my view that's exaggerated. I'd expect to just about get away with those window frames. While writing, would you mind me sharing your library of Cutty Sark photos with another guy who's looking for detail pics? I wouldn't want to do so unless you were okay with it.
  11. Kevin-the-lubber
    Are all the settings identical? That looks like something is slightly different in Lychee. I use both lychee and chitubox, generally prefer the latter as I hate having to wait for the ads to finish in lychee, but I do like being able to mirror supports. One thing I have learned with resin is that changing the exposure by just a small amount I.e. half a second, can make the difference. But it can be hugely frustrating. One other thought - Brisbane can get damn hot, and temp plays a part, though in your case I’d have thought it should be needing slightly shorter exposures.
  12. Kevin-the-lubber
    That should made them pretty solid. While I'd like to print on the plate more often, I don't like the elephants foot effect, especially if the part has to fit to another, so in these instances I use supports and, contrary to logic, put them on the facing side, so I still get a reliable mating surface. Most of the time it's fairly quick to polish up the face
  13. Kevin-the-lubber
    To be honest I'm not sure I can, which makes my day. You've made a very good job of the painting, that's for sure. If I had to guess I'd say the two pairs in the middle are mine? Have you tried the blocks yet? In both instances, please critique freely, it'll only lead to improvement.
  14. Kevin-the-lubber
    While messing around a couple of weeks ago aimed at making whisker booms from copper wire, I just used my plumbing blowtorch and plumbers lead-free solder, as I always have some of that in the toolkit. I prefer using a flame rather than soldering iron, just because it's quicker and you can draw the solder to where you want it a little more easily. As and when I see myself doing this for real on models, I'll look for a true mini-torch, for ease. There's are loads of 'mini's' on amazon but they mostly look like standard size. I wouldn't spend too much either. A torch is a torch.
  15. Kevin-the-lubber
    Soldering is great for stuff like this, it’s bombproof. It can take a little practice to get it to flow only where you want though.
  16. Kevin-the-lubber
    Dr PR, thanks, that's given me some ideas. I hadn't even thought about the squeezing aspect. But most of all you're confirming that there's nothing wrong with the machine, this is user error, which is good, because I can fix me but not the machine 🙂. I think my problems fall into the category of '99% of the time you'll get exactly what you sent to the printer. 1% of the time you're going to have to work at it'. I read an article a while back about ideal angles and I don't think it was 45 degrees. It was all about the arrangement of the pixels. Generally, I just try to reduce the amount of surface tension, balanced against the wasted cost of supports.
  17. Kevin-the-lubber
    That looks more like it. The resolution capability of these printers is, as you say, outstanding. I haven't tried the phrozen resin. I find elegoo abs very good, but unrestrained objects can warp a little over a few days post-curing; and I've been using syratech fast for when I want more strength or rigidity, but at a slight loss of detail. I'm going to splash out on one bottle of syratech blue shortly, just to see whether it really is the bees knees, as I have some very, very small load bearing things that I'd hate to have to replace if they break along the way. I'd reiterate that it's worth paying close attention to the detailed settings, usually available on the manufacturers website, and not just altering the exposure time. Slowing down the lift speed has been a game changer for me on a few objects. On a completely different topic, Richard, I'm going to try my first hull shortly - only a tiddler, a simple little jolly boat, but I'll be going back through your video for all the tips and tricks.
  18. Kevin-the-lubber
    It seems unlikely there'd be two GF Campbell's, both writing about clippers, but who knows! I picked up somewhere in my recent reading that he was a naval architect.
  19. Kevin-the-lubber
    Ps. I’ve also found that adding some meat to frames where that is hidden can make a lot of difference i.e. do a flange around the back and recess it into the bulwark if necessary.
  20. Kevin-the-lubber
    Richard, I’m guessing that your walls are about 0.3 to 0.5? It looks too like you’re printing straight off the plate. I’ve found with small, delicate pieces like these that it’s best to angle them and use thin supports. However, anything this thin will be inherently fragile unless you’re going to put strength back with the glazing. It’s also worth trying different resins and religiously using their recommended settings as the base, paying attention to things like lift speed. I’ve just started learning that these can make the difference between ‘perfect’ and ‘fail’.
  21. Kevin-the-lubber
    Bill, did you solder them? I know this sounds mad but years ago, when I still smoked (silly man) I was given a lighter than is like a mini-blowtorch, which is just right for this kind of thing!
  22. Kevin-the-lubber
    Thanks Ron, Paul. I should have found some other examples but this was all I had to hand; this outcome happens to some degree or other on all kinds of larger pieces regardless whether it’s tilted and even with a dense array of heavy supports. A little while ago I was printing what in effect is a simple box with no lid or bottom, about 8cm x 5cm, with a 2mm wall thickness. Whether angled or flat, it would warp during the print. Yet I can load up the plate with loads of individual smaller objects and have no problems. Equally, I’ve printed some large-ish delicate things using only thin supports and been fine. It’s perplexing. For the object in the photo I did indeed print it edge on in the end, this is fine when that’s an option but sometimes the orientation options are limited.
  23. Kevin-the-lubber
    Hi Ron, you mentioned you've found some good forums for resin printing - would you mind sharing the links please. I've found it quite difficult to find anything outside of facebook, which I simply won't use, and have a recurrent problem that I'm struggling to fathom. I doubt it's unique and some of the old hands will most likely point me in the right direction. In case you're interested, it's this; This is supposed to look like this; As you can see, the bottom gets ripped off the (heavy duty) supports and warps into a curve. This is not a particularly large piece and, although in this instance I've printed flat, the same kind of thing happens on anything large where I need a straight edge. It can't be a question of just adding more support, if there was any more it'd be ridiculous. Something similar happens if I print it straight onto the plate, you can see striation where the layers are being pulled apart. I think it may be something like the FEP isn't sufficiently tensioned, or that the settings need adjusting, but I'm always a bit fearful of playing with these too much in case I tear the FEP etc. On the larger printers this gets expensive! nb - I do wish that test was available for elegoo printers, but unfortunately it's not. There are plenty of generic test pieces out there but none that, like this, change the printer settings during the print so you can just do one test.
  24. Kevin-the-lubber
    Bruma, can I take you way back to post #5, where you drilled the deadeye holes in line with Campbell's plan. Did you look at whether these new positions might cause any fouling, especially those for the mizzen? I'm asking because this evening I'm fine tuning my replacement bulwark rails and there is a significant difference between the spacings and positions of the deadeyes between revell and campbell. I'd much rather use campbell as this gives more space for the belay pins but I'm nervous that by moving the deadeyes aft, the mizzen backstays might foul the quarterdeck pinrails or cabin rail. I imagine this is unlikely but thought it worth asking.
  25. Kevin-the-lubber
    Which book are these in, or site? Although I do find the campbell plans a tad sketchy (literally), in his defence he seems to have published a fair bit on clippers, leastways I have his book 'China Tea Clippers' which goes much wider than the Cutty Sark.

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