Kevin-the-lubber
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Everything posted by Kevin-the-lubber
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That's a pretty good idea. Even though my pin-in-the-bottom worked on the test piece, I still feel a bit nervous that the base of the 'strop' might break. It would all be so much easier if the eye was at the top 🙂. Also, painting the strop parts is challenging, as they say. So I'm still thinking I'll at least see whether I can form wire strops from the 0.6mm or 0.8mm brass wire I have, and solder or glue them closed at the base of the deadeye. -
I don't think you'll regret that Bill - the ship is so lovely so far and, like Marc says, you might kick yourself otherwise down the line. Two of many things I've experimented with in recent months, from this forum, are acetone for removing CA and matt nail varnish for sealing/glueing rope ends. Both of which are readily available from any cosmetics counter. I've used the acetone a fair bit as it's also good for cleaning brushes if I forget to do this straight away and it certainly strips CA (and paint). I've only tried the nail varnish on a test run of the serving machine but it does seem to do the job, just not quite as quickly as CA, and of course it's virtually invisible. Painting those blocks is going to be a bit of a chore. Has to be done though, not just for the cosmetics but because the resin will gradually degrade with repeated exposure to UV light. Don't worry, you won't wake up next week to find a pile of dust and loose string, I have stuff sat on my windowsill for 18 months without any evidence of change so I think we're talking years and years.
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I have a feeling the smallest I sent you, Bill, were 4mm, plus some at 5.5mm and 7.5mm. I'm not sure if used McKay's p.114/115 as the reference but even if I didn't, the 4mm would correspond to the yard tackles (H11 - 15"). The 7.5's roughly correspond to jeer blocks (H12) and the 5.5's don't correspond to anything (!), they were just a halfway house and for that matter making these was mostly just a random break from what by then had become the tedium of modelling the stern. I think I tried making the 10" common blocks (H19) at either 2mm or 2.5mm but may have struggled with the printing, though I'm not sure now why that would have been a problem, I'm printing equally thin sections these days without any issues.
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Richard, I'm working off a scan of underhill's drawings of a jolly boat, which came from a book so has a bit of distortion. It's also fairly small scale so the lines become a bit fuzzy, even at 1:96 scale, when drawing the splines. I think I know the answer to this question but it's always good to check with an expert - having translated the waterlines and station sections, the waterlines suggest profiles that are fairly different to the station profiles. In the picture below, showing the 2nd station profile, blue are the station lines from the drawings, green is the implied section based on the waterlines, the purple points are the projected intersection of the waterlines to the station plane. So, is this variance most likely just the sum of the translated drawings being a bit hit and miss through distortion etc? Or am I making a fundamental error in interpretation of the line plans? Can I also check this logic with you - I'm inclined to follow the waterlines more than the station lines i.e. move the latter to the former, as I think this will naturally lead to a more faired hull. Is that the right/normal/sensible thing to do? In other words I more or less forget about the station lines from the line plans and let the waterlines give me station profiles? One other thing - the line plans give me a plan view of the waterlines, which I'm working from, and a side view. Is that side view important, do I need to use these lines to get the right end result? The station lines do line up on the drawings by the way,
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Yes, that’s very useful Richard. It gives me all sorts of reference points. The paintwork is exceptional , isn’t it, both in execution but also choice of colouring. If I’d seen this two or three months back I think I’d have gone for that wood colour for all the furniture as it would contrast better with the deck. I’ve muddled through to lofting the basic jolly boat shape and now need to do all the fairing, keel and detailing. Fairing in f360 is more complicated than in Rhino and I haven’t quite worked out the best way yet to translate your approach but I figure this is a good time to learn that, on something where it doesn’t matter too much if I’m unsuccessful. I realised the other day that, while the Campbell plans for the ship itself may not be completely accurate, the hi-res size means they will be excellent as line plans and modelling the hull would be no more difficult than the jolly boat. And I was going to ask you, unless it’s in the video, how to ascertain the deck curvature from the plans? Is the ellipse constant fore to aft?
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Missed that. But now you mention it, I may have a job that needs doing..... pm me, so no-one knows it was planned 🤣
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Well done! I don't know how I'm going to go about these, I'm not at all good at placing things accurately so will have to come up with some kind of plan.
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Mine will most likely be black now. Apart from anything it'll better hide my likely sins.
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Shall I forward the address for Greenwich, they had riggers working her back in February and they may still be there? 🤣 I think some things on the Cutty Sark may no longer be true to anything more than what makes it pretty and more suitable for visitors. Tarred rope at touching level...
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Rob, that makes perfect sense, but on the museum ship they are tan. Poetic license?
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Thanks for those suggestions. I found some graphite powder a while back in the 'making' drawer, along with loads of drawing and watercolour pencils, must belong to the other half because I can't draw to save my life, but I'll experiment and get some chalks too this weekend. Rob, I often find the printing bit quite hard going. Finding a way to place supports on tiny things can be tedious, getting them off at the end even more so. I printed the pump mk2 as one piece earlier, along with another three piece as insurance, and while I've proved to myself that it'll print well as one piece, I'd have to spend another hour on the supports for that to be practical as right now I've broken a couple of the wheel spokes during the cleanup. The fun part for me is the design work in CAD, as that's where you see the thing take shape in front of your eyes. You basically see absolutely nothing with a resin printer until it's done, sometimes hours later. Horses for courses though. Astrophotography.... I haven't tried that yet. I was going to sell my telescopes as I hardly ever use them now, but thought I might give photography a go before I do. I started playing with (focus) stacking, on this model as it happens, two or three weeks back but initial results tell me I have some learning to do. I'd have to get my tripods and motors working properly first though, I've never managed to get a setup that tracked properly. Doesn't help that there's a damn great tree that blocks the pole star, from the only good observing spot in our garden.
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A question now - this metallic black paint is all very well but it does make things look like they've just been unloaded off the factory lorry. How do I make them look a little more aged... weathered I guess? (The gold stays as it is, hands off my shiny bits 🤪)
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Rob, you would have an absolute blast if this was your thing. But I have a feeling you might not find it very satisfying. I look at your work on the Glory, Bruma's yards, Dafi's Victory, Marc's Soliel, and countless others, and wish I had those skills. However, it's not a bad way to learn stuff or try things out. And for those of us who make mistakes at every turn while we're learning, it's heaven. Stuffed it up (yet again)? No prob, just print another. You should see my scrap bin, especially last year's.
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There won't be that much more detailing, I think. I am on a bit of a roll though, it's like 18 months of learning Fusion 360 and 3D printing is starting to pay off, such that I'm now able to make most things quite quickly and easily. I made this tiny little poop bell last night while waiting for the bilge pump to finish printing. A year ago this might have taken me hours. This is so small and fine that the single coat of gold paint has bridged the space in the little scrolls. The 'pin' just above the tweezers is 1mm dia. The thing is, there is nothing that complicated on the Cutty, especially with having the Campbell plans in very high resolution.
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Send me a pm with your address, I have a spare set of decals. Don't get too downhearted, modelling at this standard is bound to have some really bad days but the quality of your work so far tells me you're perfectly capable of dealing with the rigging. By the way, do you have a first name, it always feels a little impersonal to refer to you as bcochran!
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Complicated looking things. I think at 1/150 you’d be hard pressed but at something like 1/72 they’d look great.
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First print. A little bit of tweaking should see it right, the crankshaft is a bit too heavyweight, you'd want a couple of Popeye's on steroids to get this going (and good luck getting it stopped).
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They look fantastic. I think this may be one area where I'm still going wrong, using pure black and white. My white's especially just looks unnatural; I also hate painting white because it's so hard to get good opacity. Any tips?
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Thank you, I've been following your build, and a few others, and learning a lot. Yes, resin, I don't think I could have got the lozenge sections with FDM as at their thinnest they are only about as thick as a sheet of paper. I've used an ABS-like resin which isn't very brittle at all unless you really abuse it. The plan is to run brass rods glued into the bottom of the deadeyes, through the pinrails and glue into the waterway/bulwark junction. This should avoid any real pull on the pinrails themselves. But I'll also be epoxy glueing the pinrails to the bulwarks in between the lozenges - I've masked these areas on the bulwarks and tested it on scrap so hopefully that'll be strong enough. To be honest I'm not sure I remember how I got the curvature in the end, probably just using the Campbell drawings. There's more than enough give in them to curve to match the model hull, without distortion. I have to be honest - this was the best of three, where I tried out different combinations. sand coloured primer, raw sienna basecoat, burnt sienna wash and windsor & newton nut brown ink. All done using a brush this time as airbrushing small things is so much messing around.
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It would, but I’ll most likely print in three parts: the body, and the two wheels + handles. This would be tricky on FDM, I’d probably have to use use brass wire for the crankshaft and conrods but even so, doubt I’d get a quality of finish to make it worthwhile. I might even have to do that for this one as the shaft and rods really ought to be about 0.5mm at most to be in scale, but I’ll see how it looks when printed. I enjoy the painting more than anything, when it goes well. Still struggle to map the colours in my mind with those in the pots, but that will hopefully come with experience.
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I ran out of paint for the hull at the weekend - I can't think why I thought one small bottle of vallejo metallic would be enough - so while waiting for more to come I've been finishing off a host of bits and bobs. This is the main hatch, borrowing the partially covered idea from Rob's Ferreira. I want a bit more contrast, colour-wise, on the deck but I'm not sure I'll keep the planks this colour, might try something darker. Still need to make the lifting hooks as these would have been pretty heavy. Not entirely decided about the front hatch - planked like this at the moment but I might try making a tarp at some point. Booby hatch, with a ladder once glued in place. I've gone about as far as I'm willing research-wise on the hatch and in the end made some guesses. Buckets. I tried doing real ropes but got fed up after about 30 seconds of trying to tie a knot in the right place on 0.2mm rope. What hope is there for me when it comes to rigging! It doesnt really show up but I tried to replicate the carving on the underside of the lower rail. I painted the tops of the posts using a gold acrylic paint pen - I first crush the tip to get it more 'brushy', then sand it back to a more pointy shape. I love these pens, they deliver just the right amount of paint and the 'goldiness' is really, well, 'goldy'. Trial fit of the new pinrails Pinrails painted and inked, awaiting a painted hull. Must remember to varnish them first. I've had to write myself an assembly sequence/checklist which I'm following religiously, as I realised I have to glue the deck and quarterdeck assembly in before these, else they won't go. This is where I regret a day of frustration a couple of weeks ago that saw me glue one of the cabins in place, just to feel like I was getting somewhere, even though my inner voice was saying "don't". It'll be a pain working around that. I've shifted the holes for the deadeyes & belay pins inwards to try and give myself just a little more room for doing the lanyards. This evenings work. If I coloured it black all you'd see is a blob, so it's racing red for now. I noticed on photo's that the inners of the tubs are painted red, but I expect that's just for show. Just need to make the handles and we'll see how it prints. Unlike the winches, this will be rigid i.e. non-working. It was tempting, but you have to curb the enthusiasm at some point and I'll be happy enough if it prints okay. I made pumps that work like this back in the day, in Kenya. Great fun.
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If and when the mood grabs you, I’d really recommend this DIYODE article https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwjQuu2YmYf4AhXNYMAKHb6eB_QQFnoECA0QAQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Fdiyodemag.com%2Feducation%2Fexploring_3d_part_1_beginners_guide_to_fusion_360&usg=AOvVaw1q5hCjynXrbTUKYaEWwVl7 Whichever way you go at it (CAD), nothing will be as intuitive as Tinkercad, but this tutorial was pretty quick, easy to understand, and saved me from throwing the mother of all computer generated tantrums.
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Ian, I don’t know how far you’ve gone with F360 but it’s tailor-made for this kind of thing. I animated the moving parts on that little serving machine I made the other week, just to check that I hadn’t made any stupid design errors. But it’s also a lot easier than Tinkercad for creating and editing the parts you have there. I cut my 3D teeth on Tinkercad and still think it’s quite under-rated but, to be honest, can’t see myself ever using it again.
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3d printing process
Kevin-the-lubber replied to henrythestaffy's topic in 3D-Printing and Laser-Cutting.
That's pretty good moulding if that's the kit part! If these ship kits were that decent I probably wouldn't have even got into printing 🤔. I see the difference now, comparing the solidworks snip to the kit part - you're including far more detail. I find that anything extremely small, 1/100 bolt heads for instance, can end up looking like these are 'zits' rather than intentional unless there's a strong pattern, but it's still surprising what you can get away with. I printed the most delicate filigree pieces for the Victory that are only about 0.2mm wide and thick, an absolute nightmare to get off the supports, but I was still impressed that the machine could do this. I guess though that we will always want one more level of detail, it's the nature of the game.
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