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John Ruy

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Everything posted by John Ruy

  1. John Ruy
    Not exactly overnight… Actually I kept an hourly log of the experience. 😜 It was 687 hours over 15 months. OCD got the better of me. I purchased the vintage kit for 75.00 on eBay. Then another 500.00 to Radimir on Sails, Blocks, Wood Decks and rigging line. Built the case my self, used acrylic sheets not glass. Still costs several hundred dollars. I had to cover it. 😎
  2. John Ruy
    Yes… I went over the top with “His Model” and I used Anatomy of a Ship the USS Constitution to add lots of detail. That Revell model was my first gallery post here on MSW. Then I got hooked on building wood models.
  3. John Ruy
    I discovered His Model for my second build in my retirement. That was The USS Constitution by Revell, which I built prior to discovering MSW. His Model parts are an excellent way to enhance these kits. Your Cutty Sark is looking grand. Well done so far, I’m looking forward to seeing more on your build log. Let us know here when you get your log started. 👍
  4. John Ruy
    The purpose of the lifts are to trim the yard to the horizontal position, or can’t one side up out of the way when alongside in dock. This according to Masting and Rigging by Harold Underwood a great reference for Clipper Ship rigging. My first model in retirement (2016) was a vintage Revell 1/96 of the Cutty Sark. I’m working on the Red Jacket at 1/192 scale currently. Good luck with your Cutty, she’s a beautiful Clipper. Do you have a build log, I’d love to take a look. Cheers 🍻
  5. John Ruy
    Testor makes a clear cement for windows. Works great… https://a.co/d/1cxRdWN
  6. John Ruy
    Eric, I used HO Scale windows and doors on my REL. The model railroading windows came with the clear plastic window panes. If you don’t have those windows you could use the clear plastic that is used for packaging. personally I think the detail of missing window panes would be noticeable. IMHO 🤔
  7. John Ruy
    Channels… Drilling for the Masts and Bow Sprit… No glue at this time. Ready to seal and paint the hull and bulwarks. Cheers 🍻
  8. John Ruy
    Wow! Nice work on the standing rigging, Phil 👍 Glad to see you are going to add the sails. I personally thing a model is not complete without Sails and it’s associated running rigging. John
  9. John Ruy
    Welcome to MSW, Bob… Registering here and joining Nautical Research Guild is a great way to get help. There are many build logs here that you can research and find your answers. First thing to do is introduce your self in the new member forum and start your own build log. Start asking away and you’ll get answers from many an expert. Moderators are very good at assisting you as well. Good Luck and have fun with your new hobby. John
  10. John Ruy
    I’m sure you will find something else to add. 😆 Great job, your narrative is great, I learn something new every time. John
  11. John Ruy
    Lower Deadeyes… …and so it begins, the “smallest” deadeyes. Pin Rails are going to be so much fun. 😜
  12. John Ruy
    Thanks… The idea came from Bluejacket’s build log of the Red Jacket.
  13. John Ruy
    Bulwarks and Rails continued… Placing Bulwark Stanchions… Placing the Monkey Rail… Removed the kit supplied taffrail… Building up Taffrail with strip wood 1/64 x 1/32. Taffrail base completed… Monkey Rails completed… Placing water ways… Monkey Rail, Main Rail and Sheer completed. Onwards… 🍻
  14. John Ruy
    Agreed… But we love it, don’t we. 😆
  15. John Ruy
    Fore Ratlines completed… Cheers 🍻
  16. John Ruy
    Thanks Ian for the heads up, I wasn’t following the thread either. 😆 Many thank to Mike for bringing these plans to MSW. The challenge is on, we will have to check back in her when one of us starts the build. Remembering to follow this time. 👍 John
  17. John Ruy
    Thanks again for your comments, I’m glad you are finding my build log helpful. Im not sure to what pins you are referring? Would it be the nails I used? They are left overs from previous kits. I didn’t like the copper etched pieces supplied. Try this link, just be careful what size you order. The pins I used were .5 mm diameter, I pre drilled the holes and cut them to length as required. John https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2255801174526891.html?spm=a2g0n.detail.1000014.3.5776q7C6q7C6Sj&gps-id=platformRecommendH5&scm=1007.40000.326746.0&scm_id=1007.40000.326746.0&scm-url=1007.40000.326746.0&pvid=8687fea4-b5c1-40d2-84f7-6cb5de7ff991&_t=gps-id:platformRecommendH5,scm-url:1007.40000.326746.0,pvid:8687fea4-b5c1-40d2-84f7-6cb5de7ff991,tpp_buckets:668%232846%238116%23979&pdp_npi=4%40dis!USD!1.39!0.99!!!1.39!0.99!%402103011017069700467063820e1fff!10000015800220384!rec!US!!AB&search_p4p_id=202402030620467932208329681363973400_1
  18. John Ruy
    Greg, your Dories look great. 👍 Very creative alternative solution to those kit supplied parts. You are making very good progress. John
  19. John Ruy
    Phil, Excellent work as usual. Nice 👍
  20. John Ruy
    Bulwarks, Rails, etc… Cheers 🍻
  21. John Ruy
    Eric, I think you are on to something. On my R.E.Lee, I painted the planking to look water proofed and to hide the plywood grain. If you use a covering (i.e. silk span) to mimic painted canvas you can hide the plywood grain without having to plank the boiler deck. The photos you have of the Peerless appear to show that deck coated as such. Sounds like a great idea.
  22. John Ruy
    agreed… additionally as I tend to chose less tall ships I personally am headed to more miniature scale ships. I am currently working on a vintage Red Jacket and am using the Bluejacket plans at 1/2 scale. The smaller scale tall ships meet my shelf requirements.
  23. John Ruy
    Thank you… I simply found an image on the internet and reduced it on my color/printer for the compass. Used white glue to place and arylic clear semi glass to cover the paper compass. Good luck with your build the instruction book is excellent, I learned a lot building that particular model. BTW… Do you have a build log? John
  24. John Ruy
    The CA Thayer has my vote. I have been looking this one for a long time. 1/8” = 1’ would be nice. 😊
  25. John Ruy
    Could the issue be as simple as measuring the bottom of the Dory rather than the rail stem to stern? Measuring the bottom at 2.75 inches and dividing that by .1875 (3/16” = 1’) I get 14.66666 Feet as the length of the Dory as drawn. Just a thought…

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