Bill97
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Thanks Ian. You are the best! I knew you, if anybody, would know 😀. I will just omit it as well.
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Ian I read the section on page 233 you referred me to and understand what I am supposed to do with the topgallant shrouds. Thanks again. Fig 163 in Longridge’s book helps a lot. Hope you can explain this one sentence in that paragraph. Tawhl here is an example of what I was talking about reference nautical terminology and hoping Ian, or someone, else can put in layman’s language. “A rope grommet or ring, like a deck quoit, is put over the head before the rigging and rests on the stop of the hounds.” 😳
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Beautiful rope Chuck! I will have to look into using it when I start my Soleli Royal. I spent so much on after market stuff for my Victory I had to cut back somewhere.
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Thank you Ian. See Tawhl I am still learning. I definitely have the top gallant shrouds wrong. So there are 3 sets of thimbles on each side of the mast top inside the topmast shroud deadeyes? Luckily I don’t have those top gallant shrouds permanently fixed yet. I can still fix this. Thanks again My friend.
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Yes Tawhl, Ian a long way back convinced me Longridge’s book is the answer to this model. To this day it still surprises me that I can look and look through the book for an answer. When I can’t find it I ask Ian. He immediately tells me the page and diagram where to find the answer. I still think his name is Ian Longridge 😊. Where you may struggle, I know I did, is nautical terminology. In Longridge’s book as well as in others, here on MSW, and other sources, you will be introduced to so many nautical terms for rigging lines as well as where they begin and end. Initially you will say “I have no idea what the line is or what that beginning point or ending point term is!” When that happens don’t throw your hands up in frustration. Trust me I went through that many times. Thankfully the books you got have a pretty good index. Just research the word and/or term, refer to the pages and diagrams, and if necessary ask. If you are like me all of a sudden a light will come on and it will all make since. Prior to building the Victory I constructed other ships that had step by step instructions telling me to tie a string from point A to point B. Kind of like a paint by number set. No information as to what that line actually served on the ship. Once you begin to understand the physics of these beautiful ships it begins to make since. Oh by the way I have really gotta lot of use out of my thread serving machine.
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Twahl you are getting more from Dafi than I did. I just got sheets 3 and 4 and the resin stern balusters and figure head. You should do great with them. Yes 3mm and 5mm deadeyes should do you fine. I have not used the Amati rope or Syren rope. I hate to admit it but to save an already budget busting model I ordered less quality rigging thread from Amazon. Heller definitely did not give you all you need for thread in the kit. You will need various sizes of both black and tan. Since you said you have not rigged a model ship before I will throw in a little tip here. Black thread is used for standing rigging and tan is used for running rigging. The fact that you say you have not rigged a ship before I must advise you the rigging of the Victory is a monumental task. Depending on when you purchased your model you either got the old Heller instructions which are useless for rigging or the new Heller booklet which appears to be more user friendly. As several builders here on MSW told me, when it comes to rigging the model if you have the old instructions put them away. As Ian has convinced me, read Longridge’s book starting at the rigging chapters over and over. Soon a light will go off and it will make since. I have been working on my Victory almost a full year and still ask so many questions. Just don’t get frustrated and give up. As Kevin said, start a blog. It is easy. It makes asking questions so much easier when you can include pictures and explain the difficulty you might be having. Happy modeling. Bill
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Finished the rigging of the main mast (shrouds and futtock staves) except for the ratlines which I most likely won’t do until I complete the running rigging. The futtock stave on the top mast shrouds was a bit of a head scratch. As you can see in the one picture with the card I will use later for ratlines spacing, I have the stave parallel with the mast top below it and all the future ratlines. However when I remove the card the stave looks crooked in comparison to the top mast block. I expect that is the result of the slight rake of the main mast.
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Twahl following your comment above I searched the Rj YouTube video. That is exactly what I was talking about reference the little grove on each side. I had not seen the video before. For the Heller blocks I used an exacto knife to make the channel instead of files the way Rj did. The result is basically the same. You may want to experiment with modifying the Heller blocks and maybe purchase a small quantity of wood blocks to try. As you will notice the Heller blocks are various sizes which will require you to purchase similar size wood blocks if you decide to go that route. And depending on what you want to spend on wooden blocks you will find a range of quality and cost. I agree with Ian on the deadeyes. I am using wooden deadeyes. Especially if you are getting Dafi’s etched plate 3. It has the brass irons for all the deadeyes. If you go to the expense of Dafi’s sheet might as well go with better deadeyes. I got two sizes I am using on my Victory. As several other builders told me along the way, remember it is your model and for your pleasure. You just build it the way you want. I am sure it will be beautiful either way when completed.
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Hello Twahl thank you for kind words. I have not seen the Rj video on YouTube. I need to watch it. To be honest I have used wood blocks, the Heller supplied blocks, and some 3D printed blocks I got from a friend to rig this model. In most cases if you do a nice paint job on the plastic ones they are just fine. The main thing I have found that I prefer about the wood blocks is the ones I got have a tiny grove around he exterior on the opposite side of the opening. That little grove seems to make rigging the block easier in that it holds the thread in place while tiring knots. Which etched sheets from Dafi did you get? Have you started a build blog? I will look for it. P.S. I like you, got back into modeling after many many years. Kids, work, etc. made spending a lot of time on this hobby difficult. Retired now I am really enjoying it again. Please feel free to bombard me with questions if you need. That is the way MSW works. I asked and learned from others, as I am sure you have noticed in this thread, and will gladly play it forward.
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A little thread trimming once the touches of white glue dry and I will see how it looks.
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Daniel that picture is Tom’s work, not mine. I was using the picture to ask what that rigging step is? I could only hope to have my rigging look so good.
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Ok guys I know I will need to do this rigging step because I see it on every build I have researched. However I do not know what it is called, when to do it, or where to find reference to how to do it. I have looked through Longridge’s book and can not find it. No doubt Ian you will reply back that it is clearly on page ### in the book and I will kick myself again. What is the big X shaped bundle of rope at the mast top as seen in Tom’s picture below.
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Tom I continue to look through your build photos and continue to be so good impressed and amazed! Your rigging work is absolutely beautiful! The detail and preciseness is incredible. You should be so proud. There are so many examples that I keep looking back to, but two for sure is the way you rigged the shrouds to the deadeyes in post #20 and the rigging of the upper end of the shrouds in post #13. I did not do my deadeyes that way and so wish I had. That is incredible! Keep up the good work. I am a fan.
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The Yes Ian I have seen Master and Commander several times. I will watch for that next time. I am an avid reader but have not read much in this genre. Only with the building of these ships has my interest really peaked. I really hope to enjoy them.
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Well I may not bother watching it then. I was wondering if the books were just made into movies. I guess not.
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I also requested this 6 DVD set from the library. When I get it I will see if it movies made from the books.
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Ian I found that one and Hornblower and the Antropos at my library. Anxious to give them a read.
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Oh I am not going anywhere Kevin and welcome any further questions. When I finish my Victory and have it on display I will then crack open my Soleli Royal. If I can get half the help from builders here on MSW with it that I have received on my Victory I will be grateful.
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Ian was in fact just thinking about the process of tying the futtock sand catherpins. I am thinking I will put them all in with lose knots and then carefully start tying them No I have not read any of those books. I will have to check my library. Which would you recommend first?
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Today I tightened the main mast lower shrouds and got the futtock stave and futtock shrouds on the main mast. I used a brass rod for the stave which matches Daniel’s deadeye irons and little hooks. Since the little hooks are so fragile and delicate I added a touch of CA glue where the hook goes in the loop. Still need to attach the lower end of the shrouds to the stave and do the catherpins.
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Thank you for your kind words Tom. Hope all is going well in Manchester. Your build is absolutely incredible! I have your log saved on my computer for quick reference similar to Ian’s, Daniel’s, and Kevin’s. The detail in your work’ especially your rigging lines is a thing of beauty. I will just look at our photos and marvel at the quality of your rigging work. I have to be honest when I say I look at something I have done on my model and feel pretty pleased. Then I make the mistake of looking at one like your’s and just shake my head at how much better your’s is! Maybe it is the scale. Maybe it is the DeAgostini kit even though this Heller kit is well regarded. I am not sure. But I keep coming back to the simple answer. The difference in mine and your’s is the craftsman building it. Very well done my friend,
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Interesting Ian. I am wondering about that. My curiosity is how the crew would reach the opening in the mast top in order to get up there. If ratlines were only in the futtock shrouds above the stave, the crew would have to climb above the stave on a backward diagonal angle and then somehow get over the topmast shroud deadeyes.
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Thanks Ian. Looking at the futtock stave and the futtock shrouds, I am thinking it best to go ahead and do the ratlines from the stave on up. Once I put the futtock shrouds on I would not be able to get behind them to do the upper ratlines on the shrouds. From the stave down to the deadeyes can wait to later. What do you think?
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