Bill97
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Everything posted by Bill97
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I believe I will Ian. I see what you mean. I will probably keep the collars I already have installed. Won’t be that noticeable with the seizing already done to them. What do you think about the hearts I made? Think they are doable?
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Some progress rigging the bow area and bowsprit. Followed Longridge’s directions to install the main stay and main preventer stay collars. Since the instructions call for a heart in the collars I decided to make a couple out of wooden deadeyes by drilling out the centers. I don’t have hearts or thimbles but do have plenty of deadeyes so I may use this same idea in other places where hearts are needed. I see I need to add a drop of wood stain to the insides. Also since my largest cord on hand is .6mm I just went with that as directed by Heller. I attached the 3 rigging lines to each of the knightheads and ran them in reverse to their future end points. Since I replaced the plastic dolphin striker supplied by Heller with a brass rod for strength, I did not have the four holes in the end of striker to run the martingales through. As a result I just wrapped the cord around the rod and applied a dot of CA. Still need to attach the ends to the bowsprit as directed by Longridge. Also have the two lines that go from the knightheads up through the bees to later be stays for the foremast.
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Hey gang are hearts, thimbles, and bull’s eyes virtually the same thing? Just different shape and size maybe?
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Thanks Ian (my very wise teacher). I will read over all you said here and see if I have any follow up questions. Initially reading through real quick, yes I am Ok with the main stay (or was until you mentioned thread size). Yes my Main Stay does bend at the knight head and goes down through a hole in the knee and then up the other side. I did not get Daniel’s knighthead piece. I am contemplating making my own hearts. It seems that hearts and bull’s eyes or thimbles are pretty much the same thing, just different shape? No I don’t have thread that large. My largest is .6mm! That is the largest Heller called for in there instructions. I may have to get some larger for the stays or just live with the smaller .6mm. Will a 1.6mm even go through the hole in the Knightheads, especially if served?
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OK Ian thanks. I will just take out the deadeyes and run new threads to the eyebolts. Ian are the thimbles standard size throughout the ship or would I need different sizes? Last question for the night Ian. Would you mind deciphering the route of the Main Preventer Stay? I figured out and understand the route and rigging of the Main Preventer Stay (although I do not have any hearts either. 😊). May have to order them as well as thimbles. The Preventer Stay is a little confusing.
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Thanks Ian. So I could probably just live with the deadeyes I used since I don’t have any bullseyes or thimbles? Would look somewhat similar. Do you read the Longridge instructions and the plate as conflicting reference the bowsprit horses? The plate shows them going directly to the bullseye on the gangboard. His text says to go through an eye on the fore preventer stay.
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As I make my way along in this build I find myself often changing direction or planned building sequence. My most recent plan was to complete the standing rigging on the bow sprit then move to the shrouds and standing rigging on the 3 lower mast. I am realizing now that is not a good route because I can’t complete the bowsprit rigging without the completed foremast because of the upper stays on the foremast that run through the bowsprit. This would continue to be the domino effect working toward the mizzenmast mast. So I think I will now fully construct all 3 masts before getting back to standing rigging.
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Michael thanks for bringing that to my attention. I believe the honest answer to that is that I think I miss read Longridge’s instructions. In the picture from Longridge’s Plan #6 it looks like the way I did it, not the way he explains it. In the paragraph Longridge says to rove the line through a bull’s eye attached to the fore preventer stay. The inner end is then seized round a thimble lashed to the eyebolt. I misread that as a deadeye lashed to the eyebolt. Will have to redo that once I figure out what a bull’s eye is, and after I install the fore preventer stay collar.
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Thanks Ian. I was reviewing the belaying diagram and wanting to make sure I had the six lines that go to the two Knightheads. I saw in Longridge’s diagram the names of the lines. I was then going to the index to find the line, and then to the text. Then I wrote the name by the line I thought I understood. I got the bottom 4 right and almost the fore top gallant stay right 😀. The text says the top spritsail yard uses a parral. It is so tiny that far out on the bowsprit! Did you try to make one that little?
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After the last comment I found this photo online. Will see how this compares to Longridge.
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OK guys give me a hint. I am again learning nautical terms. As I learn them I can research Longridge’s book for the route of the line. Reading through the book I think I have the names of 5 of the 8 fore stays identified (maybe not). What are the names of the fore stays in the picture from the top down? Once I know their names I can determine their rigging in route to the knightheads.
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Thanks Popeye2sea. I will review my new instructions to see if this makes since. Bill
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Marc is making the new deck something you felt had to be done because the Heller deck sections were wrong or something you wanted to bash to improve it, but would not have to be done. Thinking about where I might be later. By the way does the Table of cords above make any since to you?
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Marc I pulled out the new Heller box instruction book for my SR. Attached are a couple pictures showing the belay point diagram and a Table of Roping. Does the diagram look any better than what is in the old instructions? Looking at the table I am not sure if I understand it. I can see column 1 is the line number, column 3 is the thread length, and column 5 is the thread diameter. No idea what columns 2, 4, and 6 are. Instructions don’t say. May have to email Heller and ask unless one of my great friends here on MSW can figure it out. Of course a long time before I approach this.
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Was able to engineer how I am going to attach the spritsail yard based on your recommendation. I drilled a small hole at the center of the new wood yard, inserted a small length of copper rod with CA glue, and drilled a matching hole in the underside of the bowsprit. Once I attach the foot ropes and necessary blocks I will attach the yard and the attaching rigging. Still need to figure out the brass forward spritsail yard.
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You are so right Marc about your dad. I always thought it is much harder on the family than it is on the patient. They are happy in their mental world. Fortunately for my mother, if I can say that, she passed before she got real bad. I wish the best for you and your family as you deal with this. Hopefully retreating into your modeling from time to time gives you periods of respite. Hang in there my friend. On a happy note I will look at the new SR instructions and see what their belaying point diagram looks like. Bill
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Marc I bookmarked your SR build and am enjoying reading about your build now that I have the Heller SR in my stash for after the Victory. Once I get into it I am sure I will look to your build for advice. Sorry to to hear about your dad. I understand completely as my family went through the same experience with my mother just a few years ago.
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Worked on adding eyebolts and blocks to the knightheads and roundhouses which will be used for later rigging. Thanks again Ian for the photos and Longridge reference. I did not tie the blocks off to the eyebolts yet. I am debating rigging these lines in reverse. Cut a length of appropriate thread and attach the double block to the end of it. Then use a laniard to connect it to the corresponding single block on the knighthead or roundhouse establishing the most appealing space between the matching blocks. Then rig the line in reverse to its end (beginning point). I think this process will be easier especially for the 6 blocks on the knightheads. I also made two new spritsail yards. Wanted to make yards that were stronger than the ones included with the kit. The lower spritsail yard I made from a wooden rod sanded to shape. The upper yard is so thin I did not think one made of wood would be much stronger so I went with a copper rod. It is satisfactory for strength. I will need to use some ingenuity to determine how to attach a copper rod to a plastic bowsprit
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Any of you guys recognize this? I have a set of HMS Victory building instruction that are not in English. I think they are Heller because the part numbers seem to be the same. I the section on rigging (one of the several references I look to) there is this diagram of blocks rigged to the gammoning. I do not find a similar instruction in my English version and I have not found anything similar in Longridge’s book. I may very well be guilty of overlooking it in the book.
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Ian that is exactly what I am talking about. I look at Plan 10 in Longridge’s book and see the different lines tied to the eyebolts and blocks over the round house: Jibboom Guy, Guy Pendant, and Flying Jibboom Guy. My mind immediately says what in the frick frack are those. So I turn to the index in the back, find the name, go to the page the index refers me to and find text explaining the line with an inclusion of a plate, figure, and or plane number to actually see it. Four steps for any line I am not familiar with. Of course this is 100 times better than trying to use Heller instructions by themselves. Luckily I am familiar with a number of terms (stays, shrouds, etc.). Those I can go right to work on. I don’t know if you have seen any of Revell’s 1/96 rigging instructions. They are great and I admit I am even looking to them for help. If you have not seen them, I attached a few photos. '
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Ian after looking over your photos and instructions above I have come to the conclusion YOU ARE LONGRIDGE! Come on admit it. Am I right? Am I the first to unmask you? 😀 You wrote the book, right? What is so crazy to me is the way you connect the dots in YOUR book. When you spell it out to me (that line is aaaa line and it passes through a double block before attaching to timber bbbb), and then you provide the Figure, Plates, Plan, and text page from the book, it is perfectly clear. The information is right there in front of me. I may have read over that chapter in the book once or twice but still unable to connect with he dots. Very impressive my friend. I still think a big handicap for me is not being fluent in the nautical names of the particular lines. I STILL THINK YOU ARE IAN LONGRIDGE! 😀
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Fantastic Ian. So appreciated. This should help me a lot.
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Kevin I have never tried using one of those line jigs. Airfix included one with their Vasa. I plan to just tie them the old fashioned way. Up around the mast with a served thread and to the deadeyes. Once all shrouds in place I will prepare a card with lines parallel and spaced. Put it behind the shrouds and tie knots to follow the lines. Takes forever but I like it.
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Ian as usual you have come through perfectly! No way I could do this without your help. The brass rod through the yard and into the mast is exactly what I needed to know. I am still so amazed at you finding the answers in Longridge’s book as proven by your references. Since my plan is either no sails or all furled, I know Heller here is a difference in where the yard is placed. I still look back to my Revell 1/96 USS Constitution instructions for hints. Of all my builds so far it was the only one that gave instructions as to the options of where to mount the yards with and without sails, how to rake the yards with are without sails, and where to place the extensions for the yards (I forget what they are called) if fully rigging with sails or not. I know the Constitution is a US ship and the Victory a British but I assume some of the building engineering was similar.
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Thanks guys. This information is very helpful. safemaster I will now research the slings for the bowsprit and truss pendants for the lower yards.
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