Bill97
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👍 thanks OC. I will see if I can find a technique to make them. Do you assume the yards on the model are actually lose and held in place by the parrel and rigging, or somehow glued in position with the parrels just for appearance?
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Wow OC I did not expect an answer so quick! Is a parrel used on all of the yards? How about attaching the two to the bowsprit?
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OK let’s throw out another area for discussion that I will be encountering soon. Attaching the yards to the masts and bowsprit. We all know Heller does not mold anchor points into the yards and masts to accomplish this task. From reading Longridge’s book I see a mechanism called a parrel (did I spell that correct?). Is this mechanism used for all 3 yards on each mast and the two on the bowsprit (11 total)? If not, which ones use the parrel and which don’t? Is there a good technique for making these things and how do you actually use them on the model? What attaching method is used to attach yards that don’t use the parrel? Ian I promise I am going to read through Longridge’s book several times to see if I can find this answer.
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OK Ian based on your instructions and clarification of Longridge’s book, I think I have the running rigging lines that run from the left and right of the belfry up through the paired sets of blocks under the foremast top and coiled for future rigging to their designated end points. Is it correct that the lines run on an angle directly from the rear blocks down to the belfry?
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I will do my best Kevin if I don’t wear out Ian and he put me on caller ID so he can ignore my request 😀. As you know I have the Heller 1/100 Soleli Royal in my stash just waiting for me to learn everything I need from working on the Victory. Looking through my cabinet yesterday I remembered I also have the Airfix Golden Hind unopened in my stash. Forgot about it. Not sure I want to go back down to that scale again.
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Ian I read through your instructions in comment #775 while looking at Longridge’s book and his plan 7 and 8. This was perfect! I understand exactly what to do. So very much appreciated. So you are telling me you were able to figure this out pretty much by reading Longridge’s book (the part on rigging) numerous times? I am impressed. I have read through t twice and still have the same look on my face as I do when watching Jeopardy 😕. I think as I gradually memorize the name of the lines, and what they do, that little light will go off. Thanks again my friend.
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Thanks Ian. I could not get through this out you my friend. Just knowing the name of each of the lines helps so much. At least that way I can research that line in my reference material and see where it goes. I plan to make all my sails furled so will adjust for that, or no sails as I did on my USS Constitution.
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That’s right Marc. I remember the color discussion. As you know I ultimately went with the red base color. Now that my Vasa is safely ensconced in its case and I am deep into the Victory, I have not thought as much about the color discussion as I did during the build 😊. Not sure what that says about my analysis paralysis. Ian I have not used that jig before either. I will just hand tie them. Ian I have a question for you. In our earlier comments we discussed running some of the interior rigging lines before doing the shrouds. I am looking at the 12 (double and single) blocks I have tied under the fore and main mast top. I know this will be running rigging so will be light colored thread, and that I will just coil it up with a bit of tape until I am ready to rig the ends. Do you just guess at the length to cut? I am not exactly still where each of these lines that pass through these blocks will begin and end.
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OK Marc thanks that makes since about the duplicate posts. I have built the Airfix Vasa. I have a build blog here on MSW if interested. It is a fun build. The scale makes painting the beautiful stern very delicate!
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Big leap forward in the overall height of my Victory! Got all the rigging blocks attached to the mast tops and caps. Got the 3 top masts reinforced with a rod. Got the top masts painted and now installed. Kevin put the ol tradesman eye on these top masts and the mast tops from the front. I think they line up pretty good and the mast tops are pretty level with other.
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This is no big deal and maybe more of a question for the site moderator, but I am just curious. Do even if you get multiple duplicate notifications? As an example I just went to my build blog and it showed a little red alert and said “26 Notifications”. I thought wow that is a lot. When I clicked on it is was 26 duplicates of Marc’s comment. Earlier today I had a very large number of notifications and they were all duplicates of OC’s and Grandpa Phil.
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Tomganc I do not have accurate rigging plans. The Heller instructions are tough to follow. Based on advice from my friends here I got Longridge’s book which helps. Still wish I had a detailed sequential set of instructions.
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Ian our wives must be related! That is her exact reaction when I show her what I have been doing for hours and it can all be contained in a small cup! 😀. I have a small table I clamp my serv-o-matic to and bring it along with blocks, thread, scissors, etc. into the living room and set in my easy chair rigging blocks. Any time I am not working on the actual ship and need to be in my ship room I will work this way and watch a movie or something with the wife! I think that is what I will be doing today. Need to make a hole bunch of wire eye bolts as well. Hey Marc, I was wondering what come of you? Thanks for the compliment. As OC says it is definitely a labor of love. What is is still scary to me is knowing every one of these blocks and deadeyes will some day have a thread running through or too them. It is time consuming making them but it it is like brick laying in that I can count through the instructions and see I need to make 310 blocks and where they go. Simple math and “labor of love”😊. But then having to follow my different reference guides to determine the lines (running or standing) that go to each! Wow! I hope you guys will be patient with all my questions. 😀
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Wow! How many blocks do I have to rig? 😳 Converted my serv-o-matic to help serve my blocks for the mast tops. Eighteen combined single and double on the foremast top. A little thread trimming after the dots of CA dry and some paint touch up then on to the mainmast top. You guys are telling me I am going to figure out all the different lines that go through these blocks! I hope you are right.
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You are correct Ian. I just discovered that. I have changed my assembly path. I am going to construct up to and include the top mast before beginning rigging. So the cap, mast top, and top mast to be painted and have all rigging blocks attached for all 3 mast before rigging is the route I am taking.
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Kevin there is a thread here on MSW back in 2018 titled: Weathering the tan deck any easy way of doing this In it, comment #9 by Welfack, which I cut and pasted below, he explains how he did it. I adapted that to the Vallejo Old and New Wood kit. “ I would paint the whole deck in a suitable wood colour, e.g. Vallejo Wood. I then would line out the seams with a very thin (0.1 mm) pigmented ink pen and seal this with light coat of flat clear varnish. In the next step you mix the primary wood colour with a minute drop of white and paint individual planks at random with this mixture; then you make another mixture with two drops of white etc., in the next round you mix the primary colour with a tiny drop of burnt umber and paint a random selection of other planks; then the same with two drops of burnt umber, etc. Once everything is dry and you are happy with the effect, you can seal everything with a light coat of flat varnish. In the next step you can blend in everything with a very dilute wash of white. This also has the effect of making the deck look a bit 'weathered'. Further weathering, accumulation of grime etc., can be applied with light washes of black in areas where water would accumulate. On a normal working ship, the decks would be scrubbed regularly, so do not overdo the weathering. This procedures sounds a bit complex, but really is fast and simple - you will literally see the deck coming to 'life' as you are working on it.” You should be able to search for the topic to find the discussion for additional ideas.
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Well who was I kidding when I suggested what I might get accomplished today! 😀 Fixed the incorrectly placed eyebolts at the bottom of the mizzenmast, added eyebolts and blocks to the cap of the foremast, and the blocks for the lifts? I started to glue the cap to the top of the foremast but determined I would need the fore top mast to make sure I had the cap aligned correctly. Since the top mast for both the fore and main mast are in two parts and would need to be assembled before I could use them to test my cap alignment, I put the cap aside and decided to assemble the two top masts. I had previously decided I was going to reinforce these two mast sections the same way I did the lower mast. I filed the inside space of the sections to except the brass rod I had and using CA glued the sections together with the brass rod inside.
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Kevin after I airbrush the undercoat and IDF sand base coat the next day I let it dry thoroughly. Then using a fine point (.01-.02 I think) and a straight edge, I draw in all the deck lines. Then using a fine tip brush I hand stroke the highlight colors included with the kit on random boards all over the deck. Basically painting a thin brush coat of color on almost all of the boards individually. After the hat is finished I I use a light and a dark wash to highlight areas around the deck where there may have been heavier foot traffic. An additional step I take in the process you may like to do if not to late is to apply a coat of clear flat spray can varnish or lacquer over the vase coat before you draw in the ink lines. This seems to improve the lines appearance with the pen point not getting gummed up. Once complete I coat the finished deck with an additional couple coats of the spray varnish. Kevin I honestly pretty much follow the instructions that come with Vallejo pack to select the colors to hand paint the individual boards.
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Big smile Kevin 😃. Going to watch your build with great interest and memories of my CS build. As Ian said I may find myself wanting to get mine out of the case and redo some things. Of course some things like redoing the shrouds may be impossible. I am confident you don’t need to see more but if you do I have many many pictures not in my build blog.
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Same with me Kevin and Ian. The sharing and friendship are so valuable on this site. As I mentioned a couple post back, and smile now reading your last post Ian, I will need to grab my Longridge book and look up “ The jeers, sling, and truss pendants/nave line “ . Nautical terms I have not yet memorized!😊 Today I guess I will move the eye bolts incorrectly placed at the base of the mizzenmast and figure out in layman’s terms what the 12 (4 at each mast) rigging lines are Ian that you recommend going ahead and tying to those bolts. I am assuming they are all running rigging and not standing rigging. May get he caps with their bolts and blocks attached to each he masts as well. Anxious to start installing some of Daniel’s chains with deadeyes on the channels so I may tinker there as well. Kevin the last time I was in London we stayed over at the Hilton Metropole over by Edgeware station (Brown line). Enjoyed very much seeing the city and going out to Windsor, Bath, Stonehenge, etc. Did not make it to Leafy Sussex but maybe next time. View out my “shipyard” window this morning.
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Good morning Ian! 😊. I see you on here early just like me. Cold snow day today. Ten degrees! My butt will not be leaving this house today. Time in my ship yard. How is your Ottawa weather?
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Yeah Old Collingwood that is the debate I have been having. Ian makes a very good point about being able to work on rigging around the mast if shrouds not in the way yet. Others, like you, recommend shrouds without ratlines initially.
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Old Collingwood I don’t mind at all you adding your observations. I agree that I will need to layer the shrouds and then wrap the stays around them. So the debate would be if I should leave the ends of the shrouds loose initially to facilitate other ridding or go ahead and attach to the deadeyes. The masts are the stock plastic ones but I reinforced them with wood dowel rods inside that give them much more rigidity.
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Thanks again Ian for the thousandth time 😊. That is exactly what I have been doing in my evenings. I have my Longridge book, several other reference books, and my iPad for reading my MSW comments from you and my other friends stacked on my end table next to my recliner. There is so much to learn and decipher. As I mentioned before this is my first build where the instructions did not just simply say tie this line from point A to point B. In the past, there was no need to know the name of the line or how it was actually rigged with blocks, hearts, etc. I love learning how these wonderful ships were built and rigged now. Gradually I am learning the nautical names of lines, but only have a handful memorized. I still very often read through one of your comments, as well as from other friends, and grab Longridge’s book to see what is the line or rigging component being talked about. As a compliment to you I am impressed with your vast knowledge and your generosity in sharing it. I am very curious if that knowledge comes from life experience or did you gain it simply modeling?
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