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Bill97

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  1. Bill97
    Davits made for the bow of the ship. Really enjoying hand making all the little wooden pieces that go into this build. Kevin for guys like you that 3D print a lot of your pieces, I am understanding the joy that comes with it b
  2. Bill97
    Went back and completed all the hatch covers by combining Kevin’s idea of cutting an edge into the veneer with a sharp blade all the way around the veneer covers that Veszett suggested. I then used black panel line accent color to highlight the scored lines.
  3. Bill97
    So next curiosity is to add lanyards to the hatch cover rings or not? In your photo shipaholic it appears lanyards are present and go up over the bulwark instead of into a hole above the cover.
  4. Bill97
    Thanks shipaholic. Looking at the photo it appears I may have been better served had I tried Kevin’s suggestion: Is there any scope for an (e), similar to (d)? Simulate the hatches by directly cutting fine outlines and planking into the hull with a modelling knife? See Kevin what I mean about me making my decision to quickly 🥲? Not sure I could have cut convincing lines and puttied in the current veneer, so probably best I did a middle ground.
  5. Bill97
    Thanks Kevin. 😀There are times I move too quickly on my decisions and after I wish I had done something different.
  6. Bill97
    So I ultimately went with Veszett’s recommendation of just replacing the hatch covers with pieces of veneer the same length and width. Stained and glued them in place and then glued on the hardware.
  7. Bill97
    So a thorough search of AOTS did not address the hatch covers. It does title the openings as Airing Ports and Light Ports. The drawings in AOTS show the covers being somewhat flush with the hull, as does the photo of the replica in Sydney. I think I am going to go with Veszett idea. Unfortunately I have made 4 so I will need to see if I can remove the hardware.
  8. Bill97
    Wow guys I like your help on this! I think I am going to look at doing it Veszett’s suggestion. Kevin your suggestion is a great option as well. I will of course review what AOTS says as yo mentioned Ian. As I initially mentioned I was working around the idea of having a few partially open to give some realism but I think that could result in more problems then it is worth. I have found it very interesting that there is very little conversation on my build from other wooden model ship builders. You guys continue to follow along with me, and I you. But really no opinions, advice, or recommendations from builders of this wooden ship or others. I simply could not have made it through my Victory or Soleil Royal without you guys. Thanks again. Oh, and Kevin, I really am having fun with this model. I love woodworking and this enables me to employ some of the skills I have learned over the years. Will definitely be a well thought out decision where I go next, plastic or wood? Still many great plastic models out there and I have learned a lot about building them. Many great wooden as well. Just what medium do I want to work in. Wooden models certainly strain the budget. OcCre recently came out with their wooden HMS Victory. There are numbered kits. You guys should check it out on their web site. It is beautiful! Will set you back a bit of your budget!!!! Wow!
  9. Bill97
    Thanks Ian. I realized after I sent my question that option (c) would not work on the bow. I have about 3” of solid wood there forming the distinctive bow shape. Will see what ATOS has to say. The photos of the replica appear to show the covers flush. But I am not sure. May just stick with the way OcCre tells me to do it.
  10. Bill97
    Time for opinion question. For the various hatch covers around the hull OcCre instructions have me cut various sizes of wood for the hatch covers (picture 154 top left). Then attach the needed hardware. Pictures 155-157 show simply gluing the covers to the hull at the designated locations. Covers are not set in and flush with the side of the hull. This of course is different from any of the plastic models I have built where the hatch opening is molded into the stock hull halves. My options seem to be: A: Do as the instructions say and don’t ask any more questions about it. B: Attach covers slightly open about 30 degrees and paint a flat black square behind the cover to give the appearance of being open to inside of hull. C. Try to cut a square hole the size of the hatch cover in the hull at the various spots and actually inset the cover into the hull. Opened or closed. This would entail attempting to cut cleanly through two layers of planking. My beautiful planking! 😫 Your thoughts?
  11. Bill97
    When I considered trying to duplicate Marc’s painting skills to mine I realized it was very much similar to that of Leonardo Da Vinci and his not so famous brother Larry Da Vinci 😉
  12. Bill97
    Congratulations Kevin on your SR. I did like the new color instructions that came with my kit. I have not seen the older version to compare. Those are some great questions I will have to give some thought to. My top tip Kevin probably would be to decide right off your color scheme. As you know you can find many builds on MSW. Scroll through the index carefully. There are a few different title groups. Some spell it La and some Le. Others title groups are just Soleil Royal. But anyway back to color scheme. You will see variations. Of course the spectacular colorful route Marc is taking! I think his is the build you can lose your mind if you try to duplicate what he has, and is, doing 😀! Others, like mine, are less colorful and the statuary is all gold. Mine is gold leaf. Also decide a white or wood color hull. Other tip would be to carefully review Marc’s build and pick out some things he has done you might want to attempt to employ in your build. With your 3D printing skills you should be able to print a number of his embellishment. I attempted most of mine, which were not many, as molds and resin casts. Of course replace the plastic masts and yard sections with wood dials where you can. Use your printed blocks instead of those included with the kit. Kevin I will keep thinking about this and add more thoughts as I remember them. Especially things I wish I had done or regret doing.
  13. Bill97
    Added the side stern windows. The kit came with metal windows with the pane part filled in with metal. I wanted to duplicate the way I did the stern plate windows with a plastic clear window pane backed up by the appearance of a window curtain. So I drilled and cut out the metal window pane. Then I painted the inside portion the same blue as the area of the bulwark. I then added clear plastic for the pane and a small piece of the same fabric as the stern windows. I then attached it to the matching wooden piece in the kit and then to the hull. Finally I fine tuned the black rubbing strake to match the edge of the window.
  14. Bill97
    Beautiful job as always Marc! I will add this tutorial to my list. You and Daniel do a lot of the experimentation hat the rest of us can just wait to replicate. BTW. Excellent cuticles 😀! My nails and cuticles look like I have been working in a coal mine and the wife is quick to remind me when attention is warranted 😊.
  15. Bill97
    Kevin congratulates on your pending retirement. That’s great news. After my retirement (2010. Can’t believe it has been 14 years) is when I had the free time to get back into modeling. I admit I probably spend too much in my ship yard now. Have to force myself to get other things done first each day. Will be excited to see someday what you guys do with wood or mixed media.
  16. Bill97
    Marc I built the Airfix Wasa (find it here on MSW). I decided after that I wanted to work at the larger scale. My eyes and fingers just can’t work as well at that small scale. I have the Airfix Golden Hinde in my stash but may help a grandson build that. When the day comes that you transition to wood I think you will really enjoy it. I know I have building my OcCre Endeavour. For now let us all enjoy watching you build this beauty at your fingertips.
  17. Bill97
    Marc some day in the future when you have completed this beautiful hull of the ship and are ready to move up to the masts, yards, etc, do you think you may have a bitter sweet sadness that this part is finished? As I mentioned before this build has been a big part of your life. Or, are you looking forward to that part of the build just as much? I have no doubt you already have tons of research material that will make that part of the ship just as breathtaking.
  18. Bill97
    Davits, windless, and belaying pin rail added. Also a couple figure heads on top of windless. Coming along beautifully I think.
  19. Bill97
    Some may think me crazy but rigging is probably my favorite part of building these ships. Initially, years ago, I was more interested in building the actual ship and found the rigging tedious. While building the HMS Victory I received so much guidance and help from all you guys reference the rigging, plus read numerous recommended books on the subject. I began to understand the fascinating engineering that went into each rigging line. Prior to that I just put the different threads where the instructions directed. Looking back at some of my older models I see numerous rigging mistakes. Although sometimes very tedious, like tying ratlines, I really enjoy how rigging the model brings it to life. ,
  20. Bill97
    Continuing the building of the on deck pieces. The windless was an absolute woodworking dream shaping the 8 linings to fit accurately around a tapering cone. Also starting the davits by carving out the slots for the rope wheels. The opposite end of the davits will get anchoring hardware.
  21. Bill97
    Jake I peeked in to see how your Mayflower was going. Looking great!
  22. Bill97
    Got the stern trim added today and fixed the capstan issue. I also made 8 capstan poles which I will rack somewhere.
  23. Bill97
    My daughter and her husband lived in Belgium for quite a few years. When we visited we would often go up to the Netherlands.
  24. Bill97
    Thank you so much Ronald-V. Appreciated you looking in and your compliments. Whenever I see a comment from someone new to my post I find it fun to check the profile to see how far MSW reaches around the world 😊! How are things in the Netherlands? Been to several of the cities west if you (Amsterdam, Rotterdam, etc) but never Joure. No doubt it is as beautiful as the rest of the country.
  25. Bill97
    Thanks Marc. Going to attach these pieces then tackle the capstan issue. After reading Phil’s comment I see there are corrections needed in the model design. In keeping with the AOTS photos I plan to (hopefully with no damage) pry loose the companionway and the capstan. I want to cutdown the height of the companionway to match the skylight height, and place a round spacer under the capstan to raise it above the height of the other two pieces. The model does not call for poles to be added to the capstan. Would they have been just inserted when needed? Where close to the capstan would the poles be stored when not in use? I may add that detail.

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