Bill97
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Everything posted by Bill97
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Thanks Mike and Daniel. Mike I don’t mind you commenting at all. So how do I know the voltage of my LED’s? Is that the number on the back label? Like the warm white for the example reads 3.OV-3.2V and then the colors, like the red for example, reads 1.8-2.OV. So would my 2 doubleA battery pack (3volts) exceed the voltage requirement for all of my LED’s? I think I may be still a little confused.
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Daniel I wonder if you can help me get smart. I have tried reading and researching but my brain can figure it out. I am planning to light my AV, just not to the same incredible level you are. I looked at the lighting kit OcCre offers and have considered buying it. However I already have a good supply of everything that is in the OcCre kit except for the resistors. As you can see in the photos I have a good selection of LED color lights, numerous battery packs with switches that hold a pair of 2A batteries, and a good supply of red and black wire. Everything in the OcCre kit except resistors. I looked at on the back each LED color pack and there is information provided that is Greek to me. I assume there is a relationship between my battery power source and the info on the back of the packs. You can see in the photos I showing the back that the information changes a bit from light to light. Could you please enlighten me as to what I need to make this work.
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No Daniel I don’t have it yet. I checked FEDEX tracking this morning and it is still somewhere in Spain 😊. I will finish my Endeavour before starting it. Still a while. Here is the link to my build if you want to take a peek. https://modelshipworld.com/topic/36221-endeavour-by-bill97-occre-154/ Would really like you to follow my AV build once I begin and provide advice and comment. I will be making the “upgrades” that you have shown. I also plan to light my AV but no where near the expertise you obviously have! Your lighting
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Thanks again Daniel. I ordered the OcCre paint set for the AV. Well let me say my daughter is giving it to me for Christmas 😉. I have an extensive set of Vallejo acrylics, both airbrush and paint brush. However I thought I would give the OcCre paints a try. Did you airbrush any of the painting or hand paint it all? I have a thought I know is in no way accurate for the AV but I can’t help wonder how it would look. One of the reasons I like wood models is look of the wood planking on the hull. I am a woodworker and love the look of wood. I know the AV has a steel hull painted a high gloss series of green, black, and white. The AV videos show I am to coat the second planking with wood putty and then sand it down to a smooth seamless finish before undercoat and color top coat. I am curious what it would look like to painstakingly apply the second planking with no gaps or spaces. Then apply the color over the planking without using the wood filler. The ultimate look would be a glossy wood hull instead of steel.
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Daniel while wait for my AV to arrive I read through your build and watch all the OcCre YouTube videos. I am curious, is the thread you are using for your stays white or is that just how it appears in the photos? In the OcCre videos the lighter thread is their standard raw thread color.
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Kurt I have not given any thought to selling my models. I could can not imagine how you come up with a price to ask for one. That would be interesting. I have a couple from long ago that are pretty elementary most likely not worth much to anyone. But then I have a couple that took a couple years to build and are very nice.
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Thanks Eric. Good points. As I mentioned above my problem is my affinity for large models. As you can see in the picture of the cabinet I made above for my Soleil Royal it is a large piece of furniture. My plane was/is to make a second box a matching size to set on top of it for the HMS Victory you see setting on it. But as you said this piece of furniture has very limited use outside what it is designed for.
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glbarlow that sounds pretty nice. I like the idea of it feeling more like part of the furnishings. I wonder if my airbrush set on low pressure would take care of most dust that would accumulate? I think my problem is I build models that are big. My last was the Heller Soleli Royal. It ‘s case is 46”x33”. I know I will need one similar size for my HMS Victory and my OcCre Endeavour currently under construction.
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Sounds like a great idea Snug. I am hoping the price of Plexiglass starts to drop someday. That is what I use in my cases. Safety glass as big as I would need is out of the question cost wise. Since Covid with there being a big demand for Plexiglass for shields the cost has gotten crazy. Last time I bought a sheet to cut for a case it was $100+ for a 1/8”x4’x8’. My case design uses four sides and a top so for a large model there is a bunch of Plexiglass.
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I am curious as to how other builders display their completed models. Do you build or purchase a case to display it in or do you have it free standing on shelf? For years I have built a case to put my completed model in and currently have 6 large cases surrounding my ship room. I have another completed model not yet in a case and my current project under construction on my work table. I understand the benefits of a case like no dust collecting and safe from possible damage. On the other hand the model becomes rather two dimensional when trying to view it and cases take up much more room. Add to those cons is the simple economics. Building or purchasing a case can be close to half of what a new kit might cost. I am pricing out the materials to build a case for my large Heller HMS Victory and thinking wow! I would rather save that money to go toward my next kit, but at what possible “cost” to my beautiful model that took two years to build?
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Thanks Marc and Ian.
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Ok. Wow there is a bunch of stuff! Finished the foremast standing rigging except for the stays. Let’s see what is included on this mast. Of course the lower and top shrouds and ratlines. Lower and upper futtock shrouds. Lower and upper catherpins. Lower and upper tackles. Fully rigged yards. And so much more. Now to the main mast.
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Beautiful Dan. I noticed the AV does not use deadeyes and at the end of the shrouds but instead those little white pieces. I see that is the same on the actual ship, not an OcCre short cut. They are interesting. 🤔. I imagine there are a number of differences in the ship mechanisms from the 16-17 century ships I have built.
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Thanks Daniel. That is the same for the Endeavour. Easy to add nautical accuracy. Will check the web site.
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Daniel I just ordered the OcCre Amerigo Vespucci. Expect it to arrive soon. I will open the kit after I complete the OcCre Endeavour I am currently building. I checked the index here on MSW and discovered your build is the only OcCre! I have read through yours and have it saved for easy reference. I really like what you did with the lighting. I would so appreciate it if you would share with me any advice you might have for me.
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Happy Thanksgiving to all my MSW friends. Those who celebrate the day as well as everyone else. I am truly thankful for all the help, advice, encouragement, and general comraderie you have shown me.
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Port side lower foremast shrouds and ratlines finished. Oh so many knots! Starting starboard side.
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Bit of an update on recent accomplishments. I have the furled sails on the bow sprit and foremast. I used a technique I found on line to furl the sails I really I like. It leaves the corners of the sail exposed for later attachment of the clewline and other lines as appropriate. I also have hung the foremast lower shrouds which I will soon start to rig the deadeyes. In preparation for that I mounted the chains I made. Running a line down from the mast to the deadeye on the channel and then further down that site line I got the correct position to anchor the end of each chain. I still need to add the preventer links which are in the paint shop. The nail currently showing in the chain at the hull is just there to hold the link temporarily. Once I add the preventer link I will put the nails in permanently and paint the nail heads.
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That was a curiosity I had further back in this thread. Discussing the sequence different builders use when making their mast. OcCre has me build the entire mast, including the yards, and then insert it in the deck. Since I am furling all my sails I also added them to my yards before attaching to the mast. This is my first time to do it this way as well. In the past I have done it the way you mentioned.
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Oh definitely Veszett. I am starting that now. I measure a length of .8mm thread to wrap around the mast and come down to the first two deadeyes on the starboard side. I then mark a point on both threads a little bit under the platform (can’t remember nautical name). I remove the thread and serve the section between the marks. I then wrap I back around the mast a serve a bit of the two sides together at the mast to lock it in place. I then do the same with a thread on the port side of the mast. Alternating side to side until I have all the needed shrouds stacked at the mast. As I am typing them I put a piece of tape on the end of each one so I can number them. On this ship it is 1-6 on the fore mast. I will then begin the attachment of the deadeyes and so on.
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The foremast with all furled sails! Future rigging lines, buntlines, etc., hanging free at this point. Ready for shrouds and stays!
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Two full days work and I have the fore yard sail furled. I have the 6 buntlines coming out the top of the folds that will eventually be rigged through the blocks under the mast top and down to the deck. I also have the sail corners exposed and folded over with an eye for the clew , tack, and sheet lines. Wow there is a lot of stuff tied to what used to be a simple piece of dial rod. Interesting question. OcCre has me use a parrel on the fore and main yard. The AOTS book for the Endeavour also shows this. I am not sure that is correct. Longridge’s AOTS says parrels were used on the topsail yard and topgallant. On the Victory the fore yard was supported by a sling and truss pendants. I did a quick look at my SR and see Heller instructed to use a parrel on the fore and main yards? I wonder if the type if ship made a difference in how the yard was secured?
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OcCre shows building the complete mast off the ship and also attaching the yards with parrels. Then place the completed mast “tree” in the deck. Once the mast is solid in place then start the stays and shrouds. I have usually found it easier to set the sails on the yards before attaching the yard to the mast and just have the sail rigging lines hang lose at that point. Since I plan to furl all my sails I would think I will need to add the furled sail to the yard before I mount it to the mast which is not yet on the ship.
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Marc beautiful work as always. And the additional advice from you and Kevin is always so valuable. Kevin I am eagerly awaiting your start of your SR 😊. If you guys, at your convenience, would check the question I have over on my Endeavour build and give me your opinion I would greatly appreciate it. Can’t decide for sure my sequence to proceed.
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Thanks for your comment Veszett. I am really debating which way to do this. Is your 1:144 Wasa the Airfix? I built that model and really enjoy the ship’s history.
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