Rik Thistle

Welcome Paul, I live in Scotland also and, like you, restarted a 25 yr old project (Dallas Cutter) back in March when CV hit. Once I got back into the Dallas build and found I was enjoying it, I ordered Chris Watton's Lady Eleanor Fifie fishing boat as a follow-on project. My plan is to visit Anstruther, once things become a bit safer, where there is a similar fishing vessel (Reaper) that has been restored by the Scottish Fisheries Museum Trust. All the best, Richard

When I started on the Dallas Cutter (25 years ago) I wasn't aware enough to incorporate two captive nuts into the hull/keel area for the eventual mounting of pedestals. This week I received a base and a pair of pedestals (29mm high, slot 8mm deep x 5mm wide, with a 4mm appx through hole). The pedestals would need a means of fixing to the keel of the Dallas that didn't involve nuts inside the hull. Also, the slope on the keel meant that using two pedestals of the same height caused the deck to slope unnaturally. I turned a wooden 5mm thick spacer (on the right of the pic below) to lift up one of the pedestals to compensate for the keel slope, and stained it to match the wooden base. As for fixing the base to the keel, I threaded the pedestal with a 2 BA tap (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/British_Association_screw_threads) to match two suitably long, slotted head, countersunk machine screws. With a 1mm drill in a hand-held Dremel (I don't have a small, high speed pillar drill) I drilled through the pedestals' rears (and partially into the fronts). These 1mm holes are for accepting 1mm dia brass attachment rods - see below. As seen below, the Dallas was then mounted on the pedestals (now screwed onto the base) and using that same 1mm drill (now in a pin vice), I drilled into the keel using the existing pedestal holes as a drill guide. I then dry fitted the brass rod. The drill holes will aways be at the rear of the display so no one will see them. (Note: drill one hole first and then insert the brass rod in to it before drilling the second hole in the keel - to prevent the keel slipping out of position). Although the pic below seems to show there is still a bit of a slope to the deck it's isn't that noticeable in reality. The Dallas deck slopes upwards to the bow and stern, being horizontal only in midships. And the the holes etc will be towards the wall so will not be visible. I will also put a short 90 deg bend on the rods' external ends to give purchase if I ever need to extract the rods. I'll use a small dab of Evostick to hold the rods in position. I'll finish the base off by gluing green felt to the underside. Richard

A quick update. Rigging going on. Some corners cut and mistakes made but from a distance it looks like the Dallas is slowly taking shape. The rigging drawing sheets, although they seem to contain all necessary information, are pretty smart at hiding crucial snippets of info in obscure places. I feel I spend more time studying the drawings/instructions rather than building...maybe that is the way it should be ...'read the manual first' ;-) Basic rigging in place. Topsail yard half way through being fitted. Close up of the rigging at the top of the two masts. Apologies for the photo quality - I'm using my mobile phone, mainly because it is handy and quick to transfer files. I'll dig out my proper camera for later pics. Richard

My National Gallery framed, 'medium' sized print (420mm x 325mm) arrived this morning. I went for the matt, no mount options. Total cost £70. Took 16 working days to arrive, which is perfectly fine considering it would have to go to the framers and the CV situation. The packaging was possibly the best I had ever seen. The print looks very good. One of the most colourful Turner prints I have. Very pleased. Now I need to make some space for it on my shack/shipyard/hobby room walls. Richard National Gallery link ... https://www.nationalgallery.co.uk/products/the-fighting-temeraire-print/p_NG524

This from the News page of their website... https://www.seawatchbooks.com/NewsForthcomingBooks.htm Summer 2020 It's been a wild first half of 2020. I've had 4 hospitalizations in the past year and am currently recuperating from some major surgery. Being an "old" sailor can be challenging!! On the good news front, Speedwell II is in the warehouse and available. This completes the series on this ship. On the not so good side, Rogers III will not see the light of day. With the book almost completed, the author quit, and I have nothing to publish. It is too bad because many people were looking forward to it. With the pandemic going on and the need to stay isolated, it is a great time to read books on ships and to work on models. Keep at it and stay safe. Richard

Slightly off topic, but Olha Batchvarov's prize winning model of Nelson's HMS Victory is quite stunning ... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6O6uBV0uThk ...as is the black background photography towards the end of the video. As a newcomer it was so impressive to see whilst at the same time a bit intimidating. However, in the Comments below the video she reveals it took her 4 1/2 yrs to build, so maybe.... Richard

Hi Steven, After threading the deadeyes, some of them rotated slightly as I was attaching them to ropes above - that caused the three lines of rope between the deadeye pairs to cross over each other. I think the problem would be easily fixible (ie rotate them back in to correct position) were it not for the fact that I 'cheated' by adding a touch of glue to the rope knots. Anyway, I'll keep slowly working towards finishing the ship and then have a think about whether I need/feel like correcting my mistakes. It's all a big learning curve at the moment which, I guess, is part of the enjoyment 🙂 Regards, Richard

Hi, After assembling and fitting the masts and bowsprint/jibboom I've made a tentative start on the rigging. Yup....another whole new set of skills required for the rigging. RichardG was kind enough to advise I read up on 'seizing' and I have had a go on some of the ropes, but there are so many.... Anyway, here's 3x pics of the little progress made since last time. Masts ect glued into place ...main mast at 76 deg 30 secs and foremast at 79 deg ....with a bit of luck. The foremast has the only rigging done so far. Close up of some rigging. Some seizing on some of the ropes but not on others (but maybe later). Deadeyes have rotated so ropes look a bit twisted - will try to rectify. Close up of the upper section of the foremast. That's all folks, Catch you soon, Richard

Hi Al, My rough and ready (but flexible) solution is to use 3x pieces of hardboard duct taped together. 3x pieces, so that they can be easily folded up for storage. Side view of my Plan Holder sitting on a rotating chair. The plan is held in position at the top by two clips. The natural fold at the bottom of the plan can be made to coincide with the lower hardboard join by adjusting the clamping position of the plan at the top. There is a piece of sheet metal behind the top two sections of the holder to stop the top section flopping backwards. A piece of 6mm thick plywood (or similar) would be just as good. There is duct tape on both sides of the 3x joins. The tape was added whilst the 3x pieces of hardboard were folded against each other rather than the 3x piceces lying flat on the floor...that stops the tape tearing when the 3x pieces are folded for storage. The rough side of the hardboard may need additional stapling to stop the tape coming off. The plan holder also acts as a temporary 'workbench' and is a bit lower than my desk (so easier to work on mast ropes etc) and the chair can rotate appx +/- 90 deg for slightly easier access to the rear of the model (but not as good as a proper Lazy Susan). I wouldn't leave the ship sitting on the holder 'workbench' unattended if there are other people using the room since it is quite easy to nudge the holder's corner as you move past it. Regards, Richard

Richard, Ah..... that's what I've been looking for. Many thanks. 'Seizing'...another new word for my rapidly growing shipbuilding dictionary! Google has thrown up pages of results...time to start reading ;-) All the best, Richard

I may have figured out the knot question. If I look at the Dallas knot drawing with a magnifying glass it looks like the main rope (say 145) has it's end looped back on itself, then a seperate piece of rope is wound round the original rope's two diameters to hold the loop firm? Richard

Jorge, I got the same lathe a few weeks ago. Very compact and good for what it is. Agreed, the live centre is very good. A little slop in the tailstock, and my tool rest also had a very rough finish....but a bit of filing and fine emery cloth soon polished it up. All the best, Richard

Hi guys, I wonder if I can seek some advice regarding 'knots'. I'm about to start attaching lines to the masts etc and tie off those lines. The Dallas drawing sheet below shows the various knots used.... I've had a look at https://www.animatedknots.com/complete-knot-list .... but can't see anything relating to how the 3x knots (145, 144 and 138) in the top left corner are made. The first two look a bit like a noose slip knot but I don't imagine ships used slip knots? Any thoughts or advice on how to make 145, 144 and 138? Thanks, Richard

Hyw, Even as a newcomer to this particular hobby, I can recognise an extremely high level of engineering excellence when I see it. In particular, this picture sent tingles down my spine ... It seems you have designed and manufactured a one-off measuring/machining table which can be computer (and manually) controlled in the X,Y and Z axes. I note the Proxxon rotary tool swung out of the way, but ready to be moved in to position to accurately machine what lies beneath. Also, you have carefully affixed to the table (referenced to the CNC control datum point) a 1:1 scale plan drawing of the hull as an approximate guide for manually placing the parts. Mind boggling stuff. I'd love to see a build log of how you designed/made the measuring/machining table - that would be an extremely interesting story in it's own right. I look forward to your next steps. All the very best from Scotland, Richard

Talos, Good to hear the National Gallery has faithful colours in their prints.....I guess I shouldn't expect anything else from them. I'm still pondering what size to order 😉 Roger, I'm glad you got the chance to view some of Turner's works. They can be quite mystical and some, at first glance, seem to be a mushy wash of pastel colours, but on closer inspection the story and the skill emerge. Steven, I don't recall ever having seen 'First rate taking in stores'... what a painting! Hmm...should I be ordering a print of that also? And 'yes', the The Fighting Temeraire would make a wonderful diorama, especially if it mimicked Turner's lighting. Have a good weekend, Richard

Thanks Steven, Yes, the new Proxxon lathe is very capable for small stuff. I'm looking for excuses to use it now. The last time I was on a woodworking lathe was at school, many moons ago. Those lathes were free standing and much larger, but the principles of operation are much the same. I'm enjoying doing the Dallas. But the further I go the more I'm beginning to understand why historical accuracy plays such a big role in many of the threads on this forum. For me at this time, it's more of an educational exercise learning about the best ways to 'manufacture' the model ship, all the names of the items used etc and then and just getting to the finishing post. Best regards, Richard

OK, thanks Richard. Yes, probably a stray piece of wood that might have been meant for another kit. Since it's been with me for 25yrs + I feel duty bound to find somewhere on the ship to use it 😉 ...maybe make it into a hatch, or something. Regards, Richard

Richard, I'm also building the Dallas. Still working on the masts etc. But I've noticed (for quite a while) a piece of wood lurking in the box that I have no idea what it is for. It looks like it is walnut, 460mm long. At one end it is 5mm x 5mm square and then neatly tapers down to the far end where it is 5mm x 1.3mm. It kinda matches the length of the hull but I see no mention of it in the Parts list or on the drawings. Any ideas? Thanks and regards, Richard

Louie, Talos, You've got me thinking now. I've had 3x Turner prints (IIRC, bought from Edinburgh galleries) hanging in my living room for donkey's years. But now I realise I need another one in my new 'shipyard' (former study). The National Gallery has a good description of the painting's story .... https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/joseph-mallord-william-turner-the-fighting-temeraire ...and also sells prints. I believe the original painting was 48" x 36". OK, now to decide on the size of Temeraire print, a suitable frame and where in the shipyard I can hang it. I find it a very relaxing painting, if a bit sad. regards, Richard

In June I watched Channel 5's (UK TV channel) programme on JMW Turner's masterpiece painting, The Fighting Temeraire. It's available on My5 catch-up till 2024.... https://www.my5.tv/great-paintings-of-the-world-with-andrew-marr/season-1/episode-3-fb5b7964-3461-4c0d-92f6-37738312b665 Turner has always been one of my favourite artists but I didn't appreciate the poignancy of the scene depicted in this particular painting. For a noobie model shipbuilder like me it brought home the significance of each and every ship build and their finite lives. Wiki summarises the gist of the programme ... https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Fighting_Temeraire The Fighting Temeraire, tugged to her last berth to be broken up, 1838 is an oil painting by the English artist Joseph Mallord William Turner, painted in 1838 and exhibited at the Royal Academy in 1839.[1] The painting depicts the 98-gun HMS Temeraire, one of the last second-rate ships of the line to have played a role in the Battle of Trafalgar, being towed up the Thames by a paddle-wheel steam tug in 1838, towards its final berth in Rotherhithe to be broken up for scrap. The painting hangs in the National Gallery, London, having been bequeathed to the nation by the artist in 1851. In a poll organised by BBC Radio 4's Today programme in 2005, it was voted the nation's favourite painting.[2] In 2020 it was included on the new 20-pound note. It really is a great TV episode. Regards, Richard. PS: Has anyone ever build a model of the scene depicted in the painting?

Hi all, Work continues slowly on the Dallas. I've been concentrating on the two masts and associated booms. To assist with tapering masts etc I bought a Proxxon DB250 lathe (plus 3 jaw chuck, tailstock chuck and set of wood turning tools). No major grumbles with the lathe...it's good for what it costs (£160) and does the job. Minor grumbles are.... the tailstock has side-aways slop, unscrewing the live centre and fitting the tail chuck in it's place is time consuming and the plastic collets leave small marks on the workpiece. Lathe overall...8.5/10 🙂 Making a new 2mm Dia length for inserting into the end of one of the booms. I accidentally broke off the existing 2mm Dia end of that boom. Sanding...using a smooth wooden off-cut underneath to support the downforce of the sanding block. The two masts, plus booms. Nothing stained or glued together yet. Still reading the instructions' small print for anything I've missed. See above, my new Razor Saw, bought initially for cutting the 2mm slots, one in the end of each boom. I did a bit of practice with the saw on scrap dowel first to get a feel for it and see what kind of cut it makes. It's blade is only 0.008" thick, and it certainly does make a 0.008" cut - impressive. So I made two saw cuts in the boom end by eye, the two cuts being about 1mm apart and then tucked a piece of folded over Medium sandpaper into the slot to sand it to the correct width. I had drilled a 1mm Dia hole at the top of each slot before sawing to stop crack propagation; I also tied the largest boom with string as belt and braces. Otherwise, I've been spending far too much time reading all sorts of stuff on this website ;-)....and also researching manufacturing techniques (...including buying 'Ship Modelling Simplified by Frank Mastini). OK, that's all for now. See you all soon'ish, Richard PS: I've tried to edit/delete the 3x images below but they keep coming back after Save. Help! (Edit...sorted...made the surplus images 1 pixel x 1 pixel)

Jim, I really enjoy the atmosphere you create in your paintings. Very enjoyable. And I agree, that side profiles of boats and ships can sometimes get a bit boring. I'd much rather see the ship(s) 'working' than posing. And these paintings are mostly done in 2 or 3 hours. Bob Ross would be jealous 😉 All the best, Richard

Hi B.E. I had found this website a few days ago .... https://www.stbfportsoy.org/boats/ I can understand the need for the restorers to seek sponsorship, but I imagine the fishermen at the start of the last century wouldn't have had whisky ads on their sails, but you never know! The pics on the website tend to show a browner colour (as you note) to the sails, so I ordered Rit dye for when I get round to working on the Fifie. Your sails look great, as does the boat. I can't really think of a proper way to 'brown' the white stitching ...but maybe a running a black or brown indelible marker pen down the stitching would somewhat push it into the background? Regards, Richard PS: Does anyone know if it is possible to reduce the size of images in my posts using the supplied webpage editor? Or do I need to use PS/Paint.net etc to do that before posting?

Hi B.E. Anstruther is a lovely little town and I've walked around the harbour many times. Little did I know that one day it would have a new interest for me. Anstruther also has a famous Fish and Chips shop, with lengthy queues during the summer, but worth the wait. I have friends near St Andrews that I visit a few times a years and Anstruther is only a minor detour .So no excuses for me now to not have another visit to the harbour and have a look at the museum. Thanks for the heads-up. If/when I do find anything of interest I'll post pics ect on this website. All the best, Richard

B.E. Thanks for a rapid response, and that information is very useful. I'm quite impressed by the Proxxon lathe, bearing in mind it is what it is. Only slight niggle is the tailstock base can rotate slightly on the bed (as others have mentioned) meaning the live centre (or drill) doesn't line up automatically with the centre of the collet. But I can manage that. And it's not metal we are 'machining' so the tolerances of the workpiece can be a bit slacker. Anyway, now that I've found your Fifie build I'll be watching it with great and admiring interest 🙂 All the best, Richard PS: I live quite close to Scotland's East coast and am hatching a devious plan to see if I can visit relevant local museums, preservation societies, harbours etc to hunt down some Fifies. From Googling I see there are a still few about. But that will have to wait till CV Shielding is over. In a perfect world, I'd like to get some pics of one taking to sea in fairly rough (but not dangerous) weather.