Rik Thistle

Thanks Ryland. I'm busy reading up on Flirt on the internet (not much there) but also reading through others' builds on MSW (a lot there). So once I have a bit more understanding of the Flirt build, and have had a little downtime, I'll commence my 'winter project'. All the best, Richard

James, B.E., Thanks for the advice on the 'yard cleats' and that they are not used on this model. I'll keep them for a rainy day. Richard

Thanks VTHokiEE. I think the main inspiration for my small changes comes from Blue Ensign's extensive work on these type of vessels. I'm keenly watching where he takes his Zulu Muirneag 🙂 Richard

B.E, Wonderful details. And I do agree that the stem plate looks much better unpainted...I think it's how the practically minded builders/fishermen would have installed it and maintained it. Yes, fishermen (and their families) worldwide can have a very hard life. I guess it was not easy to find other, safer employment ouside the areas they lived in. The same would apply to miners. Regards, Richard

Hi all, Lady Eleanor is leaving the shipyard on her way to the fishing grounds around the coasts of Scotland and England. It's been an enjoyable build - the shipwrights working on it are a good bunch, and although they made a few mistakes I won't be docking any wages since I need them for the next build. Below, L.E. saying 'thanks' to her build guide. Close up of the deck. I've neatly coiled the ropes which is probably wrong for a working trawler...I guess they were more gathered together in a fashion that prevented tangling. I also added my own decking. Chris' laser engraved deck is absolutely fine, but I just like laying decks. I added a lifebouy and a rope around the steering mechanism. Another pic of the deck. I used full deck length strips of wood and then 'scored' them to represent planking - some of the scores look a bit brutal this close up but are OK from a distance. Hatch - I used a razor saw to remove some of the hatch cover planks and stow them at the side. I aslo added a 'weathered' net (lace curtain material). The Capstan looks like it has rotated a bit. It's not glued in so I must have nudged it. I may added a rope to the capstan later and attach it to the net once I find out the correct routing etc for the rope. Yup, that capstan has definitely moved! Finally, a big thank you to Chris and Vanguard Models for the work put in to producing The Lady Eleanor. It took me about 7 weeks, most days doing something, even if it only for 15 mins just to keep up the momentum. I've just noticed the name plates are missing...somebody's wages are definitely getting docked now! As luck would have it, a few weeks ago I ordered some black plastic chain for the steering mechanism...it arrived yesterday! And a question...Pear Sheet 2 has 14x pairs of little 'triangles' that I never used...what were they for? OK, well next in line is HMS Flirt (MSE). That's a bigger undertaking for me and will certainly get me through the winter...I wonder though if I shoud try something different first eg stagecoach, Stevenson's Rocket, Pagoda etc?...pondering Oh, and a big thank you to all the other Fifie/Zulu builds on this website and the always helpful comments and advice. This website is a great place to be. All for now, Richard

I had a wander round Micro-mark the other day and there are definately loads of things to buy, but I can't justify enough of them at the moment. But I did do a test checkout cart at $80 and the total was $120 ie +50% shipping, which is a bit too much. But thanks anyway Erik for thinking of new ways to spend my money 😉 ....not that I need too much encouragement. All the best, Richard

Erik, Your hull and planking is looking very good. I feel that the Zulu is moving up my wishlist pretty fast 😉 I'm also still admiring your Foam Cradle...I did have a look for it in the UK but it doesn't seem to be sold on this side of the pond...shame. However, I've got my own Mk1 cobbled together version that I've used on my first two ships and it's been fine but maybe a bit harsh on paintwork. I've got a large chunk of foam in the attic that will soon be morphing into a Foam Cradle methinks. Regards, Richard

Thanks B.E. I think the reef points are a vital part of the functionality of the boat. So I really couldn't leave them out. And your build gave me all the guidance I needed. Yes, those fishermen had a very hard life. Very few become remotely wealthy on it...it was a case of just surviving at sea, and on land. I have seen lifebouys pictured/filmed on a number of Fifies/Zulus ... eg ...but they do look like very modern additions, and no doubt to comply with H&S. Back in the day, I can imagine crews attaching bladders to themselves ...even then the cold waters would would be very dangerous. Thanks for that insight. Before I started Lady Eleanor I knew little about the Scottish and UK fishing industries. But having trawled the internet for info and bought Inshore Craft by Greenhill & Mannering, I feel I have a better understanding of it all. Still much more to learn though. And that is an interesting 'side effect' of building models...the building is enjoyable and skills are developed, but my interest is also piqued by what made these things tick. In fact I'm beginning to appreciate what amazing 'machines' boats and ships are and the businesses/politics behind them. It's good stuff. Regards, Richard

I've not yet mastered the proper seizing method...ie pull the end of the thread back in to the thread bundle using the thread loop created. Instead, I tie the seizing thread around where the rigging loop (different loop) starts...to tie, you can do a reef knot (or a half reef knot, adding a touch of PVA to hold it in place)...then wrap the longer thread strand around the two strands of the rigging loop + the other end of the shorter thread (ie three items just like in proper seizing) and then after 6 or 7 wraps of the longer thread take the shorter thread strand that was being tied and make a reef knot with the longer strand at the far end of the wrap. That's maybe not the world's best explanation, but I hope it makes some sense. From a distance it's difficult to tell it's not proper seizing. One day I will master proper seizing. I tend to use a 3rd hand device to dangle the three lengths from whilst doing the wrapping. Regards, Richard

Hi all, I've been working on the sails and some deck fittings. Sails first... First, tying the yards to the sails using simple reef knots. Also added were the yard sail lift ropes. The reef point positions were then marked out using Tamiya masking tape. Dimensions calculated from the excellent Fifie/Zulu builds on this website, not least B.E.'s ..... ....and online photographs. Reef points being threaded into position...a bit of a tangle at the moment. I used Occre 0.15mm thread. And the knots on the back of the sails were 'walked' right up to the cloth using a sharp, pointed object. Reef points now fitted and cut to length. I used B.E.'s advice to add a dab of glue just at the knot to get the thread to lie flat and downwards. There's a little bit of glue staining obvious but I picked most of it off and it's not that noticable from a distance. Masts installed (not glued since they are a reasonably tight fit) and ready to accept the sails Sails tentatively positioned. Lots of rigging still to do. View from the stern. I added a lifebouy. I can't imagine the fishermen, hardy as they were, going to sea without some kind of flotation device. Online searches showed white, red & white and blue & white lifebouys in use last century. Most were held in a metal rod cradle against a cabin wall or tied onto the deck. The Reaper Zulu does have a white lifebouy fitted to it's Foremast crutch, so I copied that. IIRC, I also saw a B&W pic of a Fifie with a lifebouy on the crutch. I should really attach a few coils of rope to the lifebouy. Also, I added a rope to the rudder steering mechanism. And I'd like to add a thick rope to the Capstan and have it attached to a sail or sails but am unsure whereabouts that attachment point would be - anyone have any thoughts? Well, that's it for today, See you all soon, Richard

Erik, I do like the look of your hull cradle. I made a DIY version when I started ship modelling in the summer....I find it very flexible for man handling the ships. But I suspect your's is a bit more gentle on the paintwork etc. I'm going to see if I can hunt your one down in the UK. And I really like your Zulu build. I'm thinking it will end up on my wishlist. I'm building Vanguard Model's Fifie and thoroughly enjoying it. However, B.E.'s Muirneag Zulu version highlights what is possible if one puts in a lot of research combined with experience and skill..... one day maybe ;-) Best regards, Richard

Yes, I've used 'breathing on joints' for years (eg when I was a design engineer working on prototypes etc). Thought - would applying a very slight layer of moisture to both sides of a joint when hull planking give a more assured result? Regards, Richard

Don, "... CA will remain liquid for a couple of hours outside the bottle ..." I have been wondering for a while about how long I could leave a blob of CA lying on a piece of paper and it remain useful before I dipped a thin applicator stick into the blob? From what I understand about CA (and it's not that much) doesn't CA set in the presence of water molecules ie in the wood, on the plastic, in the air? Maybe a blob of CA forms a protective shell (reaction with the air's water molecules) around the blob keeping the CA inside the blob active for a lengthy period? Or even though the CA is still liquid after a couple of hours has it lost some of it's adhesive capability as water molecules merge with it? Regards, Richard

Thanks BE. After watching the above video I ended up watching 3 or 4 more YT videos containing old footage of trawlers (mostly around 1920s-1940s) and listening to old fishermen talk about the life on board....fascinating stuff. It would have been great if there were colour footage of the earlier Fifies but colour cinematography only started to become a thing in the 1920s onwards and widespread from the 1940s. All the best, Richard

I'm curious as to what the purpose of the steam capstan on a Fifie drift net fishing boat is. As the title says, was the capstan used for hauling up the sail (or sails?) and/or pulling in the nets? I watched Jim Duthie and Andrew Strachan being interviewd on - 'life on ZULU and FIFIE herring drifters' ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6xitrXHT4LU) Jim and Andrew have good, strong regional accents and use auld Scots language. Some of the comments I picked up are... 5.50 mins - "steam capstan for hauling the sail" 9.12 - life in sail boats versus steam drifters 9.45 - hauling nets - differences between sail boats and drifters ...net over stern? 10.55 Sail boat has coal stove, and a boiler for the steam capstan to howse (?) the mast and the fish. The impression I got was that the steam capstan was initailly introduced to assist with lifting the large sails, and then later also used to haul in the nets. But I could be completely wrong. Anyone have any thoughts? Thanks, Richard

Thanks James. Some bits of the build have gone together quite quickly, whereas other bits require more patience and planning. Just like life, I guess. 😉 I've got Chris' HMS Flirt waiting patiently in it's box downstairs. That will be a much bigger undertaking for me and will likely take me quite a few months to complete. I have also been toying with the idea of doing a non-ship build next, just as a change from ships...say something like Stephenson's Rocket or a Stagecoach (I do like a good Western) ...but I think it would be rude to keep Flirt waiting too long. We'll see. All for now, Richard

Hi all, Deck has now been planked with full length planks. Also using Chris' deck as a template to mark where the deck openings are. My plan is to use a scalpel to mark the planks to represent shorter lengths. Below - Timberheads and bulkhead rails glued and drying overnight. I'm using a Humbrol Acrylic matt (25) blue for highlighting deck features. With 20:20 hindsignt, and regarding painting in blue, I should have only laid the very outer curved deck planks which would have allowed me to paint the inside surface of the bulkhead rails and timberheads blue. I'll know next time...but I'm learning there is an optimum build sequence for things such as painting. Below, I decided to paint the brass parts sheet black. I think it will give the Fifie a more industrial look. After spending an age trying to score the deck planks with a scalpel to represent shorter planks I decided to invest in some small chisels. They are incredibly tiny but perfect for scoring the planks, and shaving of excess wood where I don't want it...and no doubt many other things. They seem very well made. Fitting the cleats, which I painted gold to represent brass. I also masked off the large deck holes since I didn't want any cleats disappearing in to the bowels of the hull never to return. All the deck fittings have now been installed and both masts tapered and trial fitted. I have removed some of the fish/net hatch planks and plan to stuff an already made lace curtain 'fish net' in there to represent a drift net. But I think I should have made the opening in the hatch on the side where the steam capstan is...darn. OK, well that's it for this week. It's been fun so far and I'm happy with the way little Fifie is turning out. See you all soon 😉 Regards, Richard

Welcome Mark. A 'simple' row boat such as Ryland suggested could be a great starting project. It will get you used to working with the materials and gently introduce you to the tools, glues, paints etc needed. Also it won't take 12 months to complete and won't cost a fortune. And you still will get a tremendous amount of enjoyment out of it. If you are wanting a bit more then Vanguard Models Lady Eleanor fishing vessel is a great kit that fits together perfectly. I don't know what country you are based in but most of the stores and/or kit manufacturers seem to have little issue delivering in-country or abroad. All the best, Richard

In the Shipping lanes Another, almost daily, treat to view, thanks. I take it you are building a rather large house extension to display all these beauties? 😉 Regards, Richard

Welcome Mike, from someone who lives just up the road. I did have the honour and pleasure of having a few beers iourside the Darwin Sailing Club many moons ago.... I think I should have stayed there 😉 As others have said, this a most friendly and helpful website, probably the best I've ever been on. All the best, Richard

I think 'Darling Girl' has a much nicer ring to it than 'sea channel'. Your link ... http://glennmci.brinkster.net/mng/mng.html#sy1108 ... is more info I hadn't yet found ;-) ...very interesting, thanks. Regards, Richard

I'd hazard a guess at 'Muirneag' being pronunced muir (as in the moorland) plus neeg. From Wikipedia (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Muir) , Muir is the Scots Gaelic for 'sea'. And from https://osf.io/preprints/socarxiv/8b6tr/download ... you can get a .pdf of 'Gaelic Words in Caithness Scots'. I quickly scanned it but couldn't spot the initial Google Search extract which said It seems to suit the Gaelic word, neag / èag, a notch or a channel, with a diminutive ending common in Caithness. It may also be related to the Scots and English ... So combining the two Gaelic meanings we get 'sea channel', which I guess makes some sense? Could use of 'channel' mean the waters between Caithness and Orkney? Disclaimer: I don't speak Gaelic and have no knowledge of the Scottish fishing industry. Regards, Richard

Hi Mike, Welcome from across the Pond. All the best, Richard

After painting the hull on my Fifie I've realised that 'gravity' also plays a role in making sure the paint tends to stay out of slight nooks and crannies under the masking tape ie turn the hull so that the masking tape is uppermost and allow gravity to pull the paint downwards and away from the masked line. This won't stop wicking or capilliary action under the masking tape but will help somewhat. Regards, Richard

Patrick, I think your work looks amazing. The close up pics could be full sized real life!. I don't have any experience in the fishing industry but in the past few weeks reading the fishing boat 'builds' on here I feel I have a much greater appreciation of the practical designs of fishing vessels and the high skill levels the crew had. All the best, Richard