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Phil Babb

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  1. Hi, I am just at the moment seeing if there is interest in the whole collection, as you can imagine there is to many to keep typing out, so I would put a list together to send out. I have posted on another site as well. Regards Phil
  2. Hi all, I have come to the decision to sell my collection of approximately 800 naval and maritime , ship construction books. These I have built up over 45 years, a few date from the early 1880, some earlier, then through the years to some modern ones. I will only sell the whole collection, I will not split. If anyone is interested I can send, email a list. Regards Phil
  3. Hi Mark, I have there first book, superb collection, is there any photos of a capstan on two decks in a small glass case in their latest book. Regards Phil
  4. If your using a spirit based paint ,easy to tell by a good sniff, use pure gum turpentine to thin. not white spirit, it stops the feather edge you get with white spirit or turps.
  5. Hi Druxey and Gregory, I am building plank on frame, I have the drawings for the Sprightly, also I have been using the anatomy of ship on the Alert, I have now having spent a few days in my workshop on the model ,sorted the stern construction, at 3/16, its a model I have wanted to build for nigh on 40 years, part cutaway showing cabins etc and rigged. Iam at the age of should be retired but cannot give up work ,so hence I don't get into my smaller workshop to work on the model as much. Hope to be planking in the coming months, will post some photos then, thanks all
  6. Hope you have sorted your problem, I am trying to sort the proper construction of the stern of a 1798 naval cutter, Sprightly, I have a huge collection of books, apart from a sketch in Stevens I can find nothing of any help
  7. I use a d4 type glue and apply to both surfaces, on all touching areas, this then gives a superb adhesion
  8. Re, cutty sark figurehead, my distant relatives the Hellyers where the original carvers, I also carve and have restored many pieces carved a Anderson who at one time worked for the Hellyers, also I can commiserate with you Druxey, arthritis is a bugger
  9. Hi all, About 48 years ago there was an advert in a good old weekly magazine for Russian boxwood of cuts, in a cubic foot bag, I ordered 2, fantastic wood that I am still using to this day, although fast disappearing now. It planes ,cuts and carves wonderfully, and iam sure I only paid what now would be a few pounds.
  10. Hi, Are you positive this is an original prisoner of war model, looks very much on the heavy side to me ,but here to be corrected. Phil
  11. As Druxey says ,read Longridge,one of the bibles of ship building.
  12. Hi. Not a very good idea to put wood into any sort of water or moisture, we all tend to get the driest condition to store wood prior to use in any applications , especially model work. The method I was taught and always use is an domestic iron, wrench it from the wife or buy your own, not a steam one obviously, and depending on type of timber, adjust the heat and iron away, pearwood responds beautifully to this.
  13. Hi all, Interesting reading here, as to staining any wood I would only ever use a spirit stain, in 45 years of cabinet making I have found the few times I have used a water stain, whatever the quality, it fades. And yes to one quote, why would you want to colour boxwood, it's such a beautiful timber, I am lucky to have a fair good stock of it, a lot of Russian box that I bought nearly 50 years ago and quiet a section of english box, which is a much lighter colour,both superb to work . Regards Phil
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