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AnobiumPunctatum

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About AnobiumPunctatum

  • Birthday 10/05/1964

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Duisburg, Germany
  • Interests
    English ship building during the War of American Revolution
    Klinker build ship of the medieval

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  1. Did you make the drawings by yourself? You made really good progress in the last year. Now the fun part will begin.
  2. No and Yes. In the beginning of her career HMS Triton had white stuff. In the beginning of the 1780th I am quite sure that she got a coppered hull. I will have a look this evening.
  3. I didn’t work with both timbers. In Europe lots of modellers choose pear and cherry. Expensive is relative. You work a really long time on such a model. So the monthly costs are also for box and pear are not to high.
  4. I think it depends on your personal taste. I have looked at all the woods mentioned. Since I paint my models, I finally decided on boxwood and holly. With natural wood models, the combination of pear and boxwood also works very well. It's best to get some samples and then decide what you like best.
  5. You should better use pear, cherry or boxwood for visible parts. Oak has a much to big grain for the small model.
  6. It's looking really good. Let a little bit more meet on the outside of the frames. This makes it easier to fair the hull after installing all frames.
  7. Have a look in the log of Jorge. He describes especially the start of his project really detailed.
  8. I am not sure, but the first deck you need is the lower deck (orlop). More important is the gundeck which is midships fully visible. For the keel you can use the keel drawing. There are some detail drawings which should help to cut out the parts. Have a look to the different build logs in the forum. I think they are really helpful, to find your way in the project.
  9. If you print the parts of the model check on your program that the scale of the printout is 100% and not fitted to sid or something similiar. You can check the scale of each print out with the ruler shown on every PDF. It is given the length of 10 feet in the scale 1/48. In metric scale it's exact 63.5mm. Don't worry about your thoughts. It's the beginning of a really long journey. For me the MSW project was also the start in scratch building. If you have not much experience I can recommend the cross section as a really good entry point. It hase the same scale as the full hull build but is much less complicated.
  10. If you like to use thinner bulkheads you have to rework the cutout in the centerboard. Forwards from middle bulkhead (0) you have to change the fore edge of the cutout and backwards the after edge. Then everything should work again. What is the thickness of the centerboard?
  11. Now I understand your problem. The double frames are only for a POF build. You need the files in folder "POB drawings". The frames are not visible and much more simplificated.
  12. 1/48 is a real nice scale. If you have the space at home for the finished model I would go with this scale.The original drawings in the RMG are in this scale. I am a bit surprised. As far as I know the PDF's of the drawings are in 1/48 prepared. You should also have access to the POF drawings. They are a really good add on for a POB build and in 1/48. If you need to scale a PDF you can simply change the scale by printing. The cross section was many years ago my first wooden try.
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