AnobiumPunctatum

Per,
 
I've had a nice hour reading through your build log. If you are finishe, you will have a really nice longboat model. Very well done and documented.
I will definitly come back and read your log again, if I start building the boats for my sloop.

Many thanks to all the "Likes"
 
and now the next two parts of the stern decoration.
 

 
Cheers Angarfather

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 194 – Lower Masts continued
 
Previous posts showed the fore top completed and the other two constructed but not yet fitted with rigging connections.  None had yet been installed on the masts, which remain loose from the model.  The plan is to complete construction of the lower masts, then fit the tops with chains, deadeyes and futtock shrouds and then permanently step the masts.
 
The mizzen mast is lagging behind the larger two.  In the first picture the hounds have been fit and the mortises for the bibbs, have been roughed out,
 

 
The metal work is all left unblackened until the handling of construction is finished.  In the next picture one of the bibbs is being glued on.
 

 
The top of the hounds assembly will be filed off to the correct rake angle later.  The assembly will then be fitted with its 22 simulated bolts, rounded and sanded smooth.
 
In the next picture the completed fore top has been glued to the hounds.
 

 
Bolts and rigging connections may be seen in the picture. 
 
With the top fitted over, the next step was to trim out the masthead.  In the next picture the bolsters on either side of the mast have been installed and and excess glue is being washed from the newly fitted chafing battens.
 

 
The bolsters provided a rounded bed for the shrouds, but on the model they also strengthen the connection of the top.  The glued joints to the hounds under the trestletrees are end grain joints, so the added strength from the bolsters is helpful.  I avoided drilling bolt holes through the trestletrees astride the mast.
 
The last picture shows the completed fore top.  In addition to the bolsters and the chafing battens, thumb cleats have been fitted to each side of the head. 
 
 

 
The wood thumb cleats will support the strapping of a bullseye that will redirect the main topgallant stay downward to the eyebolt just behind the lower masthead.  The battens and the cleats are bolted with small-size (.014") monofilament.  The entire top, including the ironwork has been given a coat of thinned Tung oil.
 
 
Ed

Now they are glued at the correct interspaces.

While drawing the notches  for the carlings on the deck beams, I realize that it would have been better to carve them before fastening the  deck beams. Anyway it is too late now, I have to carve them while they are in place. I learned my lesson for the gun deck.

... and it works!

Anyway, I make the notches for the ledges in the carlings while they are still removable.

The result of an afternoon of carving:

I remember on your last 74gun ship. It was also a marvelous project. After starting my sloop in 1/32 I know, why you like the big scales.

I remember on your last 74gun ship. It was also a marvelous project. After starting my sloop in 1/32 I know, why you like the big scales.

Hi Denis, Bob and Peter,
for your kind comments....
 
Denis,
I also like those gratings, found them the other day at a web shop, they are made from 1 mm thick hard card, and can be easy cut with a scalpel
 
Bob,
thats a nice word, I also love rather the nostalgic liners....
 
Peter,
thanks for looking in again, its been quite some time......
you`re so right with the poor deck-hands who had to set the vents to position. Those large vents of the KWdG were so heavy that that would not have been possible without gear device, also an access-ladder for greasing the gear...., have a look at the pic I thankfully received from one of member Mr. Holloms posts(showing KWdG vent- gear), but I do`nt know if that was common for ships of that era, to turn the scoop per gear shaft and crank handle on deck level ( too difficult to model detail wise in this case)
You may have noted, that here also some of the vents are turned to exhaust position...
 
Nils
 

UPDATE
 
made some structures and 24 windows, and the first two funnel (raw) sections. The appropriate vents still have to be placed, as well as the quater for the first officer.
 
Nils
 

 
a little paint and gratings on the middle upper structures. The sockets are ready to take up the funnel tubes with 10° backward rake
 
 

 
dry fit of the first two funnels
 
 

 
diagonal its possible to get the total overview on the pic
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

Continuation.
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
The beginning of the relation is available at this address:
 
 
http://5500.forumact...ndre-1-24#66516
 
 
 
Regards, Pawel

Hello,
 
I worked with Jean Boudriot and I was his friend for many years and I can tell you that the 3D drawings of the V74 are not real drawings calculated on the drawing board, they are only photographs redrawn keeping only the desired part.   On the other hand, it should be noted that the V74 is not representative of the French construction of the 1780s, the model preserved at Rochefort which was used by JB as a working basis, goes against many building rules of the time. But this does not detract from the exceptional contribution of information that are contained in the four volumes of the V74.   For the "Fifth volume" it contains some strange details in the framework plates (11 plates), the rest (31 plates) are enlargements to 1/48 of the four volumes plans. A little expensive just for enlargements ...   This is not a négative criticism, the V74 is an indisputable reference of the French shipbuilding of the end of the eighteenth century. Jean Boudriot composed an extraordinary document on the practices of this period, but we must go beyond his reading to appreciate all the subtleties and therefore the peculiarities.   Jean Boudriot is at the origin of the revival of the "arsenal modelism" and only for that, we owe to him a lot.   GD

Yes Druxey, unfortunately a volume has a third dimension, depth.
 
Zoltan, the sixth book is a copy of the 74 guns build as it appeared in MSW 1.0
 
Christian, each time I double the scale, I double the pleasure. The common sense dictate that a scale below 1/48 is a good scale where you can easily manipulate the model. The easier the task, the more pleasure I have. As I said, it is easier to work a piece of wood if you can hold it with all your 5 fingers of the hand instead of only holding it with 2. This fact seems anodine, but I had to work 7 years at different scales to understand this. Try to play a game of tennis holding the raquette with only 2 fingers, you will not have as much pleasure!
 
   

I remember on your last 74gun ship. It was also a marvelous project. After starting my sloop in 1/32 I know, why you like the big scales.

The fifth one, from Ancre.fr,  and I forgot, I have a  sixth book , containing  almost 550 pages about the construction with photos.
 
I did not think that there would be comments on this first post. So, thank you. Occasionnally I like to consolidate the experience  of the last years.
 
Some peoples saw the construction of the V3.0_74_ 1/24 in the MSW1.0 forum.
For those who did not see the other models, there are :
 
V1.0_ 74_1/192, to give you an idea about the diameter of the figurehead, it is about ¼ of the diameter of a small finger.
 
V2.0_ 74_ 1/48, this model is represented at port during winter. (Here in Quebec, this year it  will probably the year with the most snow the way it is looking today)
 
V3.0_74_ 1/24, this model is made from many kinds of domestic and exotics woods.
 
V4.0_74_ 1/24, Depending of the content of the fifth book, a choice will be made to see which 74 will be represented. The only kind of exotic wood I still like to buy is a orange amaranth which smell vanilla when we sand it. But it is to use for ship modeling. For this build, 100% cherry wood will be use. I beleive that cherry wood is a suitable wood for our activity. In the last build I done, a 64 guns, cherry wood was also use. Among the comments, only 1 people, from France, did not like the choice of cherry. Some are very strict about customs. Somebody wrote in another forum that the only scale you can use 1/48 and that the only woods you can use is pear wood and boxwood. To stay polite, I will say that I think in life we need to see broader horizon.
 
In the structure there is no problem, it is only in the outside planking that, careful  choice must be use to select the grain. If this rule is well applied, then I would say that cherry wood is perfectly suited to use for model ship construction.
 
What did I learn working at different scales; the bigger the scale the easier the work, and the reason is pretty simple : it is easier to work a piece of wood if we can hold it with all the hand fingers instead of only 2.
 
What is the best tool I tried?  It is not for any reson if the jewelers work at  a higher height, closer to their eyes, it is to see better the small parts. Height adjustable table is probably one of the best tool. To have the part at the good height makes the work easier  and also the work can be done  with less effortsthus inducing less fatigue.
 
 It enters in the category of the when ‘’you try it, you keep it.’’ Mike found probably the best source to buy an adjtable height table : IKEA. To make it simple, you can buy 3 kinds : 2-3 height position, handle height adjusting and electric adjusting table.
 
In the small category, my  prefered 2 tools I like to use are the scalpel with #11 blade. This tool is a great mystery in itself. Even if it is the best small knife available, most people on this forum prefer to use  the commercialised hobby knife : Exacto. I guess to understand you need  to compare side to side the performance, then  you can see that an exacto blade is far from being as sharp as a scalpel blade.
 
The other one is the proportional divider. This tool comes back occasionally on the forum. The last time I saw comments about this tool, I observed that  there is still a lot of education to do about this tool. I am far from being sure that everybody understands the real uses  of this tool. But the nice thing about this forum :  is that forum is a great educational tool.
 

I reviewed the Rudder Stock Geometry posts and found the string interesting.  I was not familiar with the "plugstock rudder" term.   There is an off-set as the stock passes thru the counter and then goes vertical again.  I've built up the rudder and have a hole in the inner transom bulwarks just larger than the stock.  I'll adjust it as I proceed.  I imagine this area was lined.  I will probably put in a block.
The transom planks have been partially extended up as the bulwarks along the side butt up against them.  See the second picture below with the first of two strakes installed above the spirketing.  Boy, the lens sure shows things I can not see.  Four coats of paint may not be enough.

 

 
Maury

Very nice, Pawel

Remco,
 
really wonderful. You show that it's possinle to make workable blocks in 1:48. Thanks for sharing

Hello,
 
Here is another update - all the frames are done.
 
Regards,
Alexandru

I love, to follow your log. It doesn't matter what kind of ship you build next, I will do it again

COMPANIONWAYS
 
The 1835/1836 modifications to HMS Terror introduced a new fitting to Royal Navy polar exploration vessels– the hatched companionway. Covered companionways began to replace open ladderways on smaller Royal Navy ships in the late 18th century. However, the special type of hatched companionway associated with Erebus and Terror is rare on Royal Navy plans and models until the middle of the 19th century.
 

The Companionways on HMS Terror
 
The aft companionway of HMS Terror was a simple box-shaped structure, with a large sliding hatch on its roof. To access the ladderway, the crew would slide the hatch back, and then pull open two small starboard-facing doors.  They would then descend the ladderway backwards, pausing midway to close the doors, and then the hatch, behind them.
 
The 1836/1837 Terror profile plan (1) indicates that this companionway could be removed and replaced with a tall winter deckhouse with a standard-sized door (it was apparently shaped like Terror’s water closet). However, pencil marks on these draughts indicate that this special winter coaming was abandoned sometime after Back’s 1836/1837 Arctic voyage.
 
Prior to 1839, there was no raised companionway in the forward part of Terror. Instead, an unusual hinged trapdoor system was used to access the forward ladderway. Curiously, this ladderway was located on the starboard side of the vessel, and not on the midline as was typical. This feature was changed in 1839, and a raised companionway identical in design, but somewhat larger, to Terror’s aft companionway was installed (2).
 
Unlike its aft counterpart, its doors faced port, and it was located just behind the funnel for the ship’s stove.  Its ladderway below it descended just aft of the ship’s stove. This must have been somewhat inconvenient, as using it would have introduced terrible drafts to the lower deck mess and sleeping area during the winter months. 
 
References:
(1) National Maritime Museum ZAZ5672
(2) National Maritime Museum ZAZ5673
(3) National Maritime Museum SLR0715  

The basic components of the companionway were cut
from pear wood stock using my local Library’s laser cutter. 
 

Tracks were added to the roof of the companionway. 
 

Terror’s companionways were very simple box-like structures.
 

I had trouble simulating the bronze tracks with brass sheeting, 
so I opted to use a brass foil product here. 
 

Preparing to cut the grooves in the aft hatch. 
 

The companionways with hatches and tracks 
completed.  
 

The completed forward companionway. 
 

The completed aft companionway. 
 

Mini-Crozier inspects the workmanship. A coat of Minwax 
Wipe-On Poly provides a protective finish. 
 

These structures were neither large nor comfortable. Robustness 
seems to have been the primary design feature. 
 

The 1839 Erebus model at the National Maritime Museum (3)
indicates that the doors had small knobs, which I recreated
using brass pins filed to the correct size. I elected to show
the doors with hidden door hinges (the doors 
swung outwards), which is common on modern 
companionways of the similar design.