AnobiumPunctatum

Hi Cobra, 
 
Thank you for your comment and many thanks for all the likes of the followers!
 
Meanwhile the frame construction of the sterns it's finished and now I am ready to start with the wales.
 
Cheers, Daniel

here we go with the stern frame...
 
The pictures explain itself.
 
Cheers Daniel

Good evening, Antony. The tree was not chosen by chance. It is soft and well-cut. This linden. This body I glue another layer of boards. From a decorative tree. Here is an example of such work.

Once again, thank you for checking in and for your positive comments.
 
Progress today was slow. The tholes took more time than expected due to chipping as I parted them off the stock. I suppose about 40 were made, to finally end up with 24 useable ones. So it goes sometimes!
 
It is finally time to consider the coach. I realized that the panelled sides need to be inset, or they would overlap the sheer strake and gunwale considerably. This means cutting down the uppermost strake aft. The is a job for tomorrow when I'm fresh! I gave the aftermost part of this strake a preparatory coat of blue paint, but I'm having second thoughts and may change this to black. The draught indicates a dark color here, but no more.

Spent few weeks working on my "living room corner workshop"
Finally I have a lifting table! No more bending the neck and back when working with a small details! Hooorray!
 
Normal position:

 
Standing position:

 
All power tools are stacked below the table, except the disk sander that is used too frequently.
Small stuff is hidden in the drawers (need to add some internal compartments for a more efficient space use), and very frequently used tools are on a magnetic holder outside the drawers:

 
Everything is from IKEA, of course
Electrical table legs - BEKANT (I am very pleased with them, very little play, very stable, even better than my office table, which is far more expensive)
Table top - GERTON. It is a solid wood beech top, which I sanded and finished with tung oil.
Drawers - VALJE. They are  neat like tetris bricks, could be combined in many different ways.

Thanks again, folks. No further finish on the surface of the base is necessary, Tom.
 
The latest progress has been slow. Making and installing the gunwale was tricky. It is a scale 2½" wide by ¾" deep. That translates to about 3/64" by 1/64" full size. I cut this to shape from sheet Castello and carefully rounded the outer edge with fine sandpaper. The gunwale was carefully glued to the upper edge of the sheer strake and frame tops.
 
At the bow, where the fore deck is flush to the upper side of the gunwale, revision was needed. I sanded off the paint and applied a very narrow strip of Castello over the sheer strake to match the rest of the gunwale. As masking off the top accurately would be almost impossible, I scribed the line dividing the painted area and re-painted the deck. 

I'm starting to build a model Burford 1722. I hope I have selected the correct section of the forum for this topic. If I'm wrong - correct me. I do not speak English. So I can understand short, simple sentences.

Thank you, everyone!
 
The next thing to tackle was the 'go faster' stripe along the sheer strake. Old paintings and extant ceremonial barges show either a green or scarlet strake. I opted for green, to contrast with the red paint. Securing the model on its side gently was a problem. Clamping was not an option! I decided to use a piece of dense styrofoam, which worked very well. I simply cut a slightly wedge-shaped piece out of the block and lowered the model into the gap. The masking used is Tamiya flexible tape.

Something like that Greg . It's used where the strains on the planking are greatest, such as the Spirketting and Deck Planking around the Gunports, and the Wales.
 
Thanks to all the others for their comments and Likes .
 
I started the Upper Deck framing the same way as the lower deck by temporarily installing the three Beams. Next I made the Upper Deck Main Mast Partners.
 
You may remember from the full model that these differ significantly from some of the earlier Swan Class ships in that they are angled :
 

 

 
I've also made and (once again temporarily) fitted the Lodging Knees and most of the Carlings, some of which can be seen below marked out for the Ledges. All these pieces will be removed later to cut the various mortices :
 

 

 

 
Last thing for now I've made up the Main Topsail Sheet Bitt Pins :
 

 

 

 

 
This will be the last I can do on my model for a little while as I'm ONCE AGAIN (6th time in 7 years) moving house, having sold my caravan where I've been living for the past couple of years (I just got word that the money has been deposited into my account ) and I'll be moving back into my own house. Ironically, this is where I first built my workshop .
 
See you all in a couple of weeks when I get settled in again.
 
  Danny

Thanks again, folks.
 
Now for a change of pace. To complete the outside of the hull, the rudder needs to be made and hung. To avoid damage, the base had to be made now. I decided on a nice burl veneer for this purpose - except that I had none on hand. Drawing on my experience of faux finishing, I painted the burl on ply using the three colors shown. The outer edges will be trimmed using brown stained and polished wood (at top). All these elements can be seen in the photo.
 
Assembly will be done tomorrow.

I actually thought that was a lovely piece of burl before I read your text - extraordinary!
 
cheers
 
Pat

The baseboard has now been completed and the pedestals installed. The model has been temporarily mounted and the rudder hung.

Another minor update:
 
The underwater hull has been refined and the gudgeons added. The lower gudgeon is conventional, but the upper one on the transom is a small eyebolt. This was often the case with open boats. I looked at photographs of extant ceremonial barges and noticed that the transoms were invariably painted. It was an awkward job to do at this stage of the build, but I was successful using a 00 sable brush. 
 
The mounting of the model now needed to be considered. I decided to make a simple pair of pedestals in clear acrylic. These were turned, then polished. I was filing the keel slot in the second of these when one side cracked off. I had to repeat the set-up to produce a duplicate piece. Grrr!

druxey is absolut right. Remcos motto is perfect for our hobby.

Thanks for all the likes !
 
The rest of the wing transom was installed along with what I'm going to call frames # 29. I just free cut these but the footing match perfect at 27 degrees as opposed to the 28 degree footing frames # 28 have. Let me know if anyone sees any problems.
 

Thank you Druxey, Mark and David.  
 
The gun rigging is next.  I chose to show only the breeching and the gun tackles.  With the open deck, the train tackle just did not look right.  The first step was to make the correct rope.  The breeching is 4" in circumference and the tackle line is 1.5"  In TFFM, the tackle is shown as a left hand laid line.  So I made a bunch of it using three strands of 100 weight crochet thread.  Something did not seem right so looked in all my sources and they all stated right hand laid (or stated that all rope was right hand laid unless stated otherwise).  There are not exactly a lot of 18th century ships still afloat so I decided to use the Victory as my model.  Her cannon are rigged with right-hand laid tackles and left hand breeching.  So I remade all the tackle rope...correctly this time.  The breeching is made with three strands of 50 weight thread.  Did I mention that the ropewalk handle broke off in my hand in the middle of all this? I like to secure knots with Titebond.  In order to do that I use a water based stain by Minwax, Woodsheen, in manor oak.  
 
The blocks are made by laminating the pieces together and then carving in notch for the strop.  One block has a strop with one loop and the other has two loops.  The strop is served with some ancient thread I found in my sewing machine.  The pictures show the sequence of "splicing" and serving the strop.  I tried but was unable to actually splice the rope this size.  First, the line was served, leaving extra unserved material on either end.  The two ends were mated and glued together.  When dry, they were thinned down to decrease the bulk and stiffness.  The rest of the strop was served by hand.  Finally it was given to the block.  Not perfect, but it was the best I could do.
 

 

 

 
The ring bolts for the breeching and tackle were temporarily attached to the hull.  On Victory, the breeching is secured to the bolt with a loose knot which looks like a pretzel. It is then secured to itself.  I duplicated that here.  The second picture gives a good view of the knot.
 

 

 
There is a hook on each of the tackle blocks.  The ring is at a 90o angle to the hook.  The tackle is frapped.  I wondered how neat and tight this frapping would be in reality.  Back to the Victory pictures.  They are relatively neat but not very tight, so that is how I depicted them.  I have not decided what to do with the end.
 

 
 
 
 
 
 

Really nice progress, Toni

The cannon were addressed next.  My original intention was to cast my own cannon.  But after looking at the dimensions of the cannon available through Syren, I decided to cheat and use his instead.  Maybe someday...  I also purchased Chuck's monograms to apply to the cannon barrels. I bored the barrels to the correct diameter and then blackened them in Birchwood Casey. Specifically, they were cleaned in isopropanol and blackened for approximately thirty seconds. They were then rinsed in water and wiped dry.  The process was repeated five times.  Finally, they were rubbed down with a paper towel.  The monogram was applied with CA; Titebond did not hold.  The monogram was "painted" with archival marker.  Now it is time to mount the cannon barrel.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

Really nice progress, Toni

Continuation.
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 
 
 
The beginning of the relation is available at this address:
 
 
http://5500.forumact...ndre-1-24#66516
 
 
 
Regards, Paul

I am stunned to realize that I have not posted on this build log for almost two months!  Well, work and life just have a tendency to get in the way.  I have started working on the armament.  There are sixteen cannon on Atalanta.  I will be showing the eight on the port side.  This project has taken three times as long as I had anticipated and is not over yet.  
 
The first step is making the carriage side.  I laminated strips of costello the correct thickness together.  The various steps were milled into the laminated blank.  The curved under-carriage was roughly milled and the filed smooth.  The pictures show the blank from different angles.
 

 

 

 
Holes for the various bolt were drilled while the blank was still intact for stability.
 

 
The remaining parts of the carriage (axles, wheels, bed) were made.  There was nothing complicated about any of these parts.  The front and rear wheels are different diameters. These were turned down on a lathe and then cut off with a razor saw to prevent chipping. 
 

 
I made a very simple jig to facilitate assembly.  On the left side one can see the two size holes for the wheels.  The center hole for the axle was drill by inserting the wheel into the jig.  This helped prevent splitting.
 

 
The next pictures show various views of the partially completed carriages, including various rings, the bed bolt and the wheel pins.
 

 

 

 

 

 
Finally the quoin and the rest of the bolts were added.  The quoins were hand carved.  
 

 

I just learned the 400 pages of the booklet to drive the drone as on the first picture.
The other pictures are the result of the camera on board.

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 153 – Ship’s Boats 9
 
Well, time is passing quickly and work on YA’s small boats has been going slowly – much too slowly for someone with my temperament, but the end is in sight.  I am sure that many, like me, will be glad to something new after all these small boat pictures.  This post should just about do it.  In the first picture, the last of the small boats, the 22’ cutter that will later hang from quarter davits, is getting its keelson installed.
 

 
Since this boat will be hung upright, the internals will be visible.  In the next picture some grating that will be used for a floor under the stern seats is being assembled on a spacing template.
 

 
The members of this grating are less than 1½” wide (.020”) on <3” spacing, made from Castelo.  The assembled section is shown below, before sizing and framing.
 

 
The grating was made, for the most part, as shown in earlier posts, or perhaps in Naiad posts, using the milling machine for precision and in this case to slit the milled strips without damage.  The grated flooring can be seen in the next picture where one of the thwarts is being installed.
 

 
In the next picture the boat is ready for painting. 
 

 
The missing wales will be added after both they and the hull are painted.  The next picture shows the almost completed boat.
 

 
All that remains is to add the lettering, the oars, the rudder and some iron hardware.
 
I have not been happy with the grated platforms at the helm, seen in earlier posts, so I took the opportunity to replace them with some grating of the smaller size, as shown in the last picture
 
.
 
Ed

Thank you again, all, for visiting this log and for your comments. 
 
A small update. The corner seats forward of the coach have been made and installed. These were some trouble, and I made three sets before I was satisfied. Running the moulding along the edges where the grain direction changed was difficult, as there was a tendency for tear-out.
 
Instead of wooden standards uniting the thwarts and sides, there are iron straps. On Prince Frederick's barge, the arm of the strap that runs across the thwart is inset flush to the thwart's surface. The side arm is bent as appropriate over the inner sides of the planking. This detail completes the structures in the rowing section.
 
While the model is invertible without risk, I shall be cleaning up the outer sides of the planking and softening the edges of the laps. It is also time to make and fit the gudgeons.

I completed the lining of hawses and the hole for the wall of the mainsail