AnobiumPunctatum

If you like to copper HMS Winchelsea, I am quite sure that you have to follow the appearence of the Minerva model, this means that you have to change the design from Chuck. Chucks design shows the ship before the large repair. During this repair from 03/1780 until 04/1782 the ship was coppered.
I like to rig my model, because I love the appearance of a "fully" rigged frigate. But until I reach this stage I have a lot to do and much more to learn.

Thank you Captain Hook and Glenn for your kind words and thank you to all the 'Likes'.
This week I've been working on framing the stern.
Once again, the concept is really perfect and everything has been thought out so that the assembly is done in a simple and precise way.

 
For fairing the outboard sides, I used the method described by Rustyj in his excellent build log. I'm lucky to be able to rely on many build logs and to be able to reuse the tips and tricks found there 😁.
So I glued a piece of pencil lead to the end of a trip of wood and I was able to trace the future shape of the stern. A first roughing was done with my Proxxon rotary tool then I finished the shaping with sandpaper glued on different pieces of wood.
 
The two stern ports are then framed. I first determined the position of the port sills and lintels using a photocopy of the stern framing.
 

 
The installation of the two stern ports pushed me to think of a system to facilitate its assembly. Indeed, port sills and lintels must follow the ship's waterline. So I decided to build myself a small jig to facilitate their poses.
So I drew the waterline on the plan and measured the distance from the top of the bulkhead to the bottom of the sill, measurements were taken for bulkheads 14 and 4.
 

 
I then cut two pieces of wood whose height corresponds to my measurements. They were joined together and wooden strips that will pass through the x and y frames were glued.
 

 
These two strips are glued so that they are just 3/32" below the marks established using my template.
(3/32"  being the thickness of the wood pieces used for port sills and lintels)
 

 
I also added on each side a thin wooden stick (about the thickness of a sheet of paper) to give the second angle to the port sills.
 

 
Then all that's left to do is to glue the port sill on my jig.
 

 
For the lintels, a piece of wood the height of the stern port was simply placed on the sill and used as a support for positioning.
The pieces were then sanded at the back.
 

 
Next step : the square tuck and always so much fun.
 

Today is the Spring Festival, a traditional Chinese festival. Happy New Year to all the world! Our shared interests have brought us closer together, and I wish you all the best in the face of this epidemic. I never stopped making it. Hope that through their efforts can do better, put their best work in front of everyone. Thank you for your support!   
 

 
 
 

 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 

 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 

 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 

Exquisite.

I told that I like to have the option to rig my model. For this I measured carefully the positions of the masts and cut them out of the false keel (1).
The second thing was to cut small cut outs for 2 nuts (2), because I like the small stands which allow to show the lines of the underwater hull without interrupting. For this kind of presentation it's a good idea to screw the model on the stand. The distance to the lower edge isn't equal, because the waterline isn't parallel to the keel.

 

 
Further I glued the parts of the stem an the knee of the head together.
 

 
For sanding the edges and removing the laser char I sawed a small sanding block out of balsa wood.
 

 

Really nice result, Christian. I like the color of your stand

Excellent work on that sloop, Jorge. But you also have the assistance of some charming helpers. Mine prefer the comfort of a warm living room above working in my cold workshop.

Thank you to all the 'Likes'
 
The port sills
I added the gunport sills.In order to be sure that the positioning is the same on both port and starboard, I replaced a temporary batten on the opposite side so that I could position the port sills well level. The port sills are cut from a 1/4" x 1/4" alaskan yellow cedar.

 
The port uprights have been cut to different thicknesses from a 1/4" sheet of yellow alaskan cedar using my Byrnes table saw, , measurements were carefully taken from the plan.

 

 
The sanding was first done roughly with my Proxxon OZI/E delta sander and then finished by hand with different grains of sandpaper.

 
Hell and damnation! I discover with amazement that on the starboard side the positioning of the upright port of the first gunport at the bow is slightly too inside and that once the sanding is finished, the bottom of the piece is too inside a few tenths of a millimeter...
There are three possibilities: the first is to remove the part and replace it with a new one that will be positioned correctly. But I'm too afraid to break the bulkhead knowing that Titebond glue is a super glue! Second option: vertically cut the piece and replace only the front part. But I'm afraid to mark the piece horizontally and finally have to start the gunport sill all over again.
Finally, I opt for a repair of the missing part. I still have to find the right product to use... Then I remember one of the properties of the putty which is not to adhere to the plastic. So I make a 'formwork' using a piece of plastic packaging (transparent plastic, the one that wraps for example chocolate boxes or other foodstuffs) glued with double-sided tape on one side of a wooden piece. This piece is then fixed with a clamp on the side to be filled. My 'formwork' will allow me to obtain a completely smooth and level inner face. Once the putty hardens, the scrap wood ('formwork') can be removed without causing any damage because the plastic will have prevented the putty from sticking to the 'formwork' and will have made a completely smooth and level surface.
Naturally, this option could only be chosen because the repaired area will eventually be painted red and therefore the choice of a different material than wood is not important.

 

 
Finally, once the work is finished on the different port sills, I realize that the two forward chase ports are not at the same level of detail as the others. At first, I thought that my cut was good but comparing the result with the other ports I decide to add port uprights. So I enlarge the 2 gunports by making two vertical cutouts of 1/16th and add the vertical pieces using the reference chase. My two forward chase ports are now identical to all other gunport sills.

 
One last sanding with a very fine grit and I will be able to move to the stern.

 

 
You may have noticed that I have started working on the two rooms. I'll talk about it again once the work is more advanced.
 
 
 
 

The deck planking and waterway are finished along with a coat of W-O-P. 

 
I found a height discrepancy, so I added a paper or card stock shim to compensate. The idea was to avoid having to sand the parquet floor in order to even things out.

 
Mike
 

there is an update on sternpost part. here is how it turned out with whitish windows...
i guess i little drowned side windows so i could have posture upper molding a bit higher, but it could have been far worse anyway ..so long part 3 for me. as i dont have figures im done
I painted black scarf around boat glossy, as greenwich protoype better or worse for you ?
first pic is carulean still not quite dry. but its easy on eyes i guess enough. i had to repaint darker one.
no matter how long i tried my very best on sternpost. i cant better picked very simple column pattern , sorry for that . didnt i promise in november  i m goona catch up with you folks...?.
now long break ...but i will enjoy your progress... thank you all.
 
 

 

With the plans from Werner Lahm, you have the best source you can find for the Bremer cog. I Will follow your build with great interest.
The plans are also the basis for the replica's in Germany.
I've published a pert of the foto's I did from the original ship at Modellmarine.de.

With the plans from Werner Lahm, you have the best source you can find for the Bremer cog. I Will follow your build with great interest.
The plans are also the basis for the replica's in Germany.
I've published a pert of the foto's I did from the original ship at Modellmarine.de.

The coppering on the starboard side is now finished.  You can see the difference between the port side with a finish applied and the starboard with none.  I have decided to delay applying the finish until the wale has been redone.




While doing research for another project, I discovered that the coamings were built several inches too short (8 inches instead of 13).  You can see the difference in the picture below.  Time to rebuild them all.
 

Christian, I too wish to rig Winchelsea.  Thank you for the reminder to cut out the positions of the masts in the false keel.  I think I might make the holes for the masts 3-dimensional by building out on each side of the false keel.   That way there isn't any wiggle room in ANY direction.  I want a snug fit.
Tom

Mike, that's the same technic I use. The black color is mostly the laser char. I only egalize the small edges where two parts fits together and a third part has to be glued. With this stick it is really easy to sand the outer edge, which is not visible in the foto.

I told that I like to have the option to rig my model. For this I measured carefully the positions of the masts and cut them out of the false keel (1).
The second thing was to cut small cut outs for 2 nuts (2), because I like the small stands which allow to show the lines of the underwater hull without interrupting. For this kind of presentation it's a good idea to screw the model on the stand. The distance to the lower edge isn't equal, because the waterline isn't parallel to the keel.

 

 
Further I glued the parts of the stem an the knee of the head together.
 

 
For sanding the edges and removing the laser char I sawed a small sanding block out of balsa wood.
 

 

Hi Kris,
I am a member of the AK. I think I can help you. Do you search the article of Otto Groning?

Hi Kris,
I am a member of the AK. I think I can help you. Do you search the article of Otto Groning?

I told that I like to have the option to rig my model. For this I measured carefully the positions of the masts and cut them out of the false keel (1).
The second thing was to cut small cut outs for 2 nuts (2), because I like the small stands which allow to show the lines of the underwater hull without interrupting. For this kind of presentation it's a good idea to screw the model on the stand. The distance to the lower edge isn't equal, because the waterline isn't parallel to the keel.

 

 
Further I glued the parts of the stem an the knee of the head together.
 

 
For sanding the edges and removing the laser char I sawed a small sanding block out of balsa wood.
 

 

Mike, that's the same technic I use. The black color is mostly the laser char. I only egalize the small edges where two parts fits together and a third part has to be glued. With this stick it is really easy to sand the outer edge, which is not visible in the foto.

Ok, she is half dressed now. I left stern for the last part.
little messed up those frezies at the bow though...and some moldings are little wobbly, but anyway...here it goes...thanks for any comment criticism...etc...
 

Hello winnies masters,
 
how are your Winnies doing?..cant wait to show off the roof rail of my princess, she is being dressed to point she could go dancing soon dont be too harsh on me please hope you enjoy it. what a miniature, i firstly thought Chuck designed it himself as some kind of revenge to torture us   v.
 

 

Nice joinery on the knee, Christian. Not that you would need to do this with Chuck's laser cut parts, but. . .To get a 90° edge I usually sand the adhered sandpaper flush with the edge of the block. I will then raise the part off the table slightly with a thin sheet of wood so the sandpaper touches the entire edge of the part being sanded.
 
Mike