AnobiumPunctatum

Whow, you have a really nice workshop. My shipyard has 8m² and is now also my homeoffice.
I am very interested to see your method of building a hull. It isn't very popular in Germany. I know this method only from older books about shipmodelling.
 

OK, I lied. I had to show this. 1 wale down, 3/4 wale to go. I'm really glad this is a first layer planking and that i will be adding more. Its definitely a learning process and I'm positive there will be more than a few do-overs after this. JJ, thanks for those pics. They made a world of difference. One thing I learned, wait until all strakes are installed, then sand. I had installed 2, sanded a bit and then the other 2. My sanding is never perfect and it took just a wee bit more to level out all 4 strakes in the end. I also like the idea of giving those planks a bit of extra meat on their bones just to enable a bit more sanding without getting too thin. 
 
 

Yes it is big, but fully rigged a really nice model in that scale. 

Here is a photo of the first four completed lifts.  They are not glued together yet
Tom

You have to use Tamiya colors with the Tamiya thinner of Isopropylalcohol (I recommend the thinner).
I think that you use a wrong pressure and distance by airbrushing. It seems that the color was dry, if it reachs the model.
If you new using an airbrush I think i's a good idea to do some tests and practice on white paper of scrap before you start on your model.

You have to use Tamiya colors with the Tamiya thinner of Isopropylalcohol (I recommend the thinner).
I think that you use a wrong pressure and distance by airbrushing. It seems that the color was dry, if it reachs the model.
If you new using an airbrush I think i's a good idea to do some tests and practice on white paper of scrap before you start on your model.

You have to use Tamiya colors with the Tamiya thinner of Isopropylalcohol (I recommend the thinner).
I think that you use a wrong pressure and distance by airbrushing. It seems that the color was dry, if it reachs the model.
If you new using an airbrush I think i's a good idea to do some tests and practice on white paper of scrap before you start on your model.

You have to use Tamiya colors with the Tamiya thinner of Isopropylalcohol (I recommend the thinner).
I think that you use a wrong pressure and distance by airbrushing. It seems that the color was dry, if it reachs the model.
If you new using an airbrush I think i's a good idea to do some tests and practice on white paper of scrap before you start on your model.

Tom, JJ, Vlad et all, Thanks for the encouragement!  Well, here it is. My first wale strake. I promise, no more posts here until I actually *really* get something done  Chuck, thanks for your planking videos. Made myself a little planking board, swiped my wife's iron and learned how to edge bend. Took me 3 planks bent the wrong way to realize what I was doing at the bow. Once figured out, she lay flat and happy. Gonna work out how to re-saw on my little bandsaw and make some black hornbeam planks for the 2nd layer. Thanks for the patience everyone!
Ron

Yesterday I picked up my package with the parts for the first four chapters at the German customs office. I am really impressed of the quality and what Chuck can do with his laser.
 

 

 
Now I am waiting for the extra timber I ordered by Chuck. And then the adventure can start.
 

Yesterday I picked up my package with the parts for the first four chapters at the German customs office. I am really impressed of the quality and what Chuck can do with his laser.
 

 

 
Now I am waiting for the extra timber I ordered by Chuck. And then the adventure can start.
 

And now the hull has been "tarred".
 
I think the stain turned out OK Compare for example with the pictures that @Mike Y shared earlier in this thread. The slightly uneven coloration looks quite realistic. I do plan to put a coat of dark shellac on top, so it will be become even darker.
 
In the end my mix was 3 parts light oak, 1 part mahogany, 1 part ebony stains and 5 parts water.

The riveting has also started.
 

Tic Tic Tic Tic ....  Time, no doubt, can't go fast enough for you to get the extra timber.  While the wait can be taxing it gives you time to get your shop set up and for you to read through the build logs of your fellow model builders again.
Tom

Yesterday I picked up my package with the parts for the first four chapters at the German customs office. I am really impressed of the quality and what Chuck can do with his laser.
 

 

 
Now I am waiting for the extra timber I ordered by Chuck. And then the adventure can start.
 

Yesterday I picked up my package with the parts for the first four chapters at the German customs office. I am really impressed of the quality and what Chuck can do with his laser.
 

 

 
Now I am waiting for the extra timber I ordered by Chuck. And then the adventure can start.
 

Yesterday I picked up my package with the parts for the first four chapters at the German customs office. I am really impressed of the quality and what Chuck can do with his laser.
 

 

 
Now I am waiting for the extra timber I ordered by Chuck. And then the adventure can start.
 

Yesterday I picked up my package with the parts for the first four chapters at the German customs office. I am really impressed of the quality and what Chuck can do with his laser.
 

 

 
Now I am waiting for the extra timber I ordered by Chuck. And then the adventure can start.
 

Yesterday I picked up my package with the parts for the first four chapters at the German customs office. I am really impressed of the quality and what Chuck can do with his laser.
 

 

 
Now I am waiting for the extra timber I ordered by Chuck. And then the adventure can start.
 

Gentlemen,
I slowed down a bit , made some dust. I corrected stern and removed 2 planks that go later on. I feel i must clarify my approach before it causes some misunderstanding...
I said i dont have or intend to build Winnie to Chucks highest expectations with all fancy bells and whistles along the way as I am limitated by material I have or I will try to make myself...its all learning and part  of fun isnt it? that It suppsed to be. I mean of course i will follow plan as close as possible and best i can. But i reserve for myself to make here and there shortcuts where it is covered by sticker or something like that.  To clarify that it is not to show some sort of ignorance or harming Winnie - well from ones  view it can be seem like that but i will reserve that opinion to oneself. I probably even shouldnt be here as this is advanced modeling and i am just a beginner though. So what the point of learning than? Well plenty - i learn proper planking and i go according to plan Chucks and your guidance guys. I dont have different planks than 6 mm - but i have those for entire boat so i had to accomidate thin 3 mm strike along to fit the measuring - it ensured that very top plank lines perfectly up to the toprail - again this whole will be thankfully covered by frezie sticker so i am happy that thin strake wont be seen. that strak is from Chucks cedar 3rd part so I can say that my Winnie has got original wood - its still plenty there left  for fancy mouldings....so ...I  did my best at upper planking. I dint have different measure timbers nor wider one so i couldnt try to do those fancy angles around port openings...i can live with that. Went slowly  and tried to seam tightly and  tried to cut gunports openings as precisely as possible. It was quite challenging. After two or thre I found a way how to mark and cut and It went better... I cant do better i guess  for all i wrote i would say i can live with something like my own Winnie, probably ugly duck sort of for small shotcuts, but I would like Chuck to put up with some small hidden shortcuts ...  as much as those will do the exact or good for  winnie or shortuts where those can be - but i state it is not something to be followed.  
 
...so first  coat is on now black line to follow for next few days  first I have to make those two planks that narrows into one - as I will make 2 more lines downwards the hull and - for that narrow ones  i had to order an extra wood. i also need to sand off some center of bulkheads for marks i will need to make later. that would be counting and recounting as my wide is hust a tad wiser than supoosed to...i would sand off atill a little on a port side bow but im scared i took alread too much so i dont want to hollow that plank entirely. that was a mistake i made as port opening glued off and i put it back a littel too much elaning out so those two planks didnt meet exactly rather way off...also two planks at starboard bow side are not as tight as should be - after sanding it is now visible ... seam a bit thicer.this is hell of a price to pay to each unfocus  on this job  grrr. photography is a sharp and uncompromising judge - sight can forgive a lot. 
and You can see I crushed one part of bollard :(( but i hope to repair it and glue that corner back shouldnt be that tough...fingers crossed. I dont consider black line sifficult after I finised all this. that is for couple of days now. good luck with all yours!  sorry for elaborate..)) 

Thank you Rusty.
I have completed the Q gallery freeze and I am happy with the result so I will give it a go to paint all.
The final freeze will be smaller than the one below.  I added some extra turquoise green to the margins to make the picture bigger than needed just in case.
 

 
 
The original was painted at 5X and the figure was inspired by a fountain sculpture in Europe.  It needs a little touch up but it is almost done.
 

 
I will make to copies one mirror image for the other Q gallery and insert the image in Chuck’s PDF file to get it to the correct size to print.
 
Next the upper transom
Best,
G
 
 

Thanks Matt, most of the credit goes to Chuck’s beautiful design.
Thank you for those that are following my posts and for all the likes.
I added the columns to the galleries. This was a lot of delicate work wit mini chisels and diamond files.
 

 
The resin figures were painted as recommended by Chuck.  I used an artist brush to add the stain into the shadow areas of the figures.  Then I removed the stain to create highlights with a silicon artist brush.   After 24 hours the figures were sealed.  I got a macro lenses for my phone, you could see where the stain accumulated.  In some areas you could see doted lines which are left by 3D printing or Jack’s 3D carving.
 



 
The picture below shows a before and after to show best the effect. 
 

 
My intend was to match as much as posible the colors of the surrounding wood.  The detail of this carvings are amazing; for example the leave Coronas around the circular gun ports are not identical but rather mirror image of each other.  Jack’s attention to detail shows up very clear.  The windows fit was perfect thanks to those spacers used during construction.
 
 

 
The quarter galleries got the same treatment.  I added the acetate film after cleaning the laser char with alcohol.  I glued the windows before adding the top and bottom parts of the columns.  
 

 
In the picture bellow, you could see how nicely the gallery and Qgallery windows align.  Gallery windows are not glued.
 

 
I paid special attention to the placement of the feet and heads of the main figures and carved the moldings whit mini chisels to accommodate them.  I noticed that Jack rolled the tail fin of the fish to fit the molding so I followed the placement of the fish as in the plans.  Everything got sealed with Testor’s matte seal.
 


 
I chose to paint black behind the corner figures to enhance the contrast and it payed off.  The molding around the figures were carved with mini chisels for a title fit
 

 
Once the darks behind the gallery windows build up the white paint will show best.  I am planning to use a little white here and there in the model because I will plank the deck with holly.
 

 
Next I will add the hand painted freezes.  I have collected a bunch of Mer figures that I will add.  
 
Best,
G
 

Thank you Fred and for all the likes.
My plan is to draw and hand paint the figures at 3x to 5x and turn them into digital images I could shrink to size and place to fit the freezes.
I have collected a bunch of images I like from sculptures and I am drafting them. I will post the paintings as I go.
here is another drafted in an office PosIt  at about 3x
 

 
Bellow I adde the window seals 
 

 
 
The roof piece goes in 

 
 
Slate shingles with some weathering looking paint 

 
This help me build the Transom more confortable.

 
All the moldings are in and the red decoration on to of the window frames; need to touch up the paint a little.  Painted black the top of the frames.
 

 
A good  view of the moldings. I added some read on the arches in the side windows. I have seen that in contemporary models.
 

 
I am holding on with some moldings which I will add when the freezes are ready.
Next the widow columns.
 
Best, 
 
G
 
 

 
 
 

Thank you Reg, Don and Bob and for the likes.  I assure you there are plenty of flaws but I think they are ok.
I added the stern post the transom and upper counter.  I have planned the painting patter ahead of time and some sections were painted before they were glued.
 

 

 

 
 
The cap rail on top of the transom took a long time but the effort was wort it.
 

 
 
The circular ports were enlarged to match the transom plate.
 

 
 
Next reinforce the upper counter to start the Qgallery.
 

 
Best,
G
 
 

Thank you Eduard an for all the likes.
I have sanded the hull to 400 grid an give it 3 coast of water base satin latex translucent paint. I sanded the bulk guards as per instructions and added the reference cap rails except for the waste. 
Thought I will remove the slay to get better pictures.
Best,
G


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The planks that go around the mast partners and coamings are difficult to make and took some careful planning. In a failed attempt, I tried to make all the cutouts at one time. Rather than waste more wood, I decided to make card stock templates that closely matched the area being worked on. The plan was to work one tab at a time. Once a tab was completed, I would then move onto the next tab.
 

 

 
This template was tricky because it required spanning two tabs in order to establish the proper shape. Notice how the tab tapers in width.

 
When it came time to glue, I adhered a short section of the plank to the false deck. This would make it easier to finish up the remaining unglued areas afterwards. Softer wood strips were used as clamps against the margin plank.

 
Once the glue was set, I moved onto gluing the remaining areas of the plank.

 
Pillar files and a sanding stick were used to shape the parts. Sticky back sandpaper was adhered to the stick and sanded flush with its edge.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
Mike