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HMS Winchelsea 1764 by Guillermo Madico - semi scratch build

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I have been catching up wit the group build.  I discovered moths after it went life.  I have been following your progress and has been quite useful.  So far I have not manage to get my self in trouble thanks to your posts.


I put to good use my coping saw and got a slay from Hobby Tools to ensure the structure will be straight.




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Actually if you could lower the center window fillers a bit.  They are both too high.  This will cause you grief later on.  They should be level with the ones next to it.   Otherwise its looking great.



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Next I did the wales.   It helped me sand to shape the lower corners of the counter.

thank you for the words of encouragement and pointing to things to improve.

This are holders I came up to hold planks in weird places.  The axis in the wood parts are eccentric and when rotated they put pressure in the plank.

The paper binders were shaped and filed to hold the planks gently and avoid marking the wood.  I remove the after a few minutes.  I used cyanoacrylate glue and wood glue for edges.


  I used the method of Chuck to bend the planks to shape with a travel iron.  I like to use a peace of metal (old sharpening plate) for the base to heat more the top and cool the wood plank faster.  Worked like a charm.



Next step,  fix the error in the central window.










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Thank you Chuck.  
I corrected the central window.  She just needed some sanding and love. 😁


I used the Byrnes table saw and sliding table to make the bollard timbers after I sanded them to shape.  I used the thinnest blade I have, adjusted the hight and used the stops to place the cuts. I have a dummy timber to do the cut fist and adjust before switching the keeper for the final cut.  Thank goodness Chuck gave us 3 sets.





Hope this makes sense. Happy to give more details if not.







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  • 2 weeks later...

Small update.  I painted the ports and started the planking.  I chose not to add a pencil line to the lower plank next to the black strake.  After adding the second layer of wales the pencil line peaks on top of the black strake in some places and I don’t like the look.

I am taking my time with these tabs as they will be very visible and it is paying off.  Not so bad for my first time adding tabs.

Hope all the others will look as good as this one.  



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Thank you Chuck it means a lot coming from you.

I finished one side of the gun ports using tabs.  It has being an entertaining and challenging experience. I am sure that without Chucks model as a reference I will never have attempted it.  Lots of planing ahead but very rewarding.

I used a mini chisel to carve the corners of the gun ports and medium size diamond files of different grains to help me smother the lines.  A curve sanding stick was used to keep the lines of the ship true to the design.








Than you Chuck for all your measurements in the design. It is a pleasure to build it.

having fun,


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Superb work !



'You are not carving a bear with a chain saw here folks',

Chuck Passaro, ´Queen Anne Style Barge´ manual of instructions


Current builds :


Finished build :


Next on list :

  • Santa Maria boat - Korabel (Ukraine) - 1:24
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Great planking! Well done!


"So Long For Now" B) 


Current Builds: HMS Winchelsea 1/48  Duchess of Kingston


Completed Build Logs: USF Confederacy , US Brig Syren , Triton Cross Section , Bomb Vessel Cross SectionCutter CheerfulQueen Anne Barge, Medway Longboat


Completed Build Gallery: Brig Syren , 1870 Mississippi Riverboat , 1949 Chris-Craft 19' Runabout


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Chuck and Jorge are correct.  I modified the way to plank it.  I don’t like the way the double planking of the wales look in models. I prefer to plank the counter over the first layer of whales and them the second layer of wales cover them.  In this way only one layer of wales shows in the counter side.  The wale looks thinner than expected but I prefer this more realistic look compared to two layers of wales showing.

hope this makes sense.
i will remember to post a picture when I reach the second layer of wales.



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 I started the other side of the gun ports.

first I mark where the port meets the plank.



I then make a cut with a mini chisel about 1/16 deep in each side. Notice the position of the chisel blade.

both sides cuts


I use the mini chisel to remove the wood towards the first cut until I reach the end of the cut.



I test the plank.  It is almost there



I cut with the mini chisel 1/64 deeper and measure again

The corners now have reached the right death.


I use a file to remove the rest of the wood been careful hot to file close to the corners.


Sorry about the pictures they are one handed with my phone.
I touch up the corners with the chisel if needed 



This is the final plank with 3 cuts fort the gun ports





The plank glued in place before sanding.

image.thumb.jpeg.4af8f18331bb0b1ee5092927f0fec7b8.jpegThis do not pretend to be the way to do this; it is just one way to do it and I hope it inspire others to share and compare techniques so that we all learn from each other.









Edited by Guillermo Eduardo Madico
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3 hours ago, Guillermo Eduardo Madico said:

Agree, the frieze will cover the counter.


Nice Chiseljob G.


what i did tho in my Cross-Section was a bit different, i didnt chisel, i filed down the opening with a small modelers file



Current Build: HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models 1/64 

On Hold/Parallel: Lady Nelson - Amati/Victory Models 1/64



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Hello Jaceck:
I use to do it that way and it worked perfectly.  The chisel cuts down the time significantly.  I did all 3 cuts in the time I will have done one.  The chisel also give you charmer corner quickly which takes time with the file.  Diamond cover files are also faster than conventional files unless you have those Swiss made beauties that cut like butter.

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