AnobiumPunctatum

The lower deck planking is 2" x 10" with an average length of 15 feet.  I used a four-step butt shift.  As this deck will barely be seen, I did not treenail the deck.


At this point I had an oh-s*** moment.  I inadvertently placed the main hatch too far aft, a distance of one bulkhead.  So all of the involved planking and the main hatch were removed.  Surprisingly, I did not damage the hatch in the process.  The hatch was then installed in its correct location.  The hole is the location of the main mast.

The holes for the mast and the pumps have been enlarged to their final size and the pad for the base of the capstan is installed in front of the bulkhead leading to the captain's quarters.

It has been a while since I posted an update but not for inactivity in the workshop.  Once the hull was faired, I installed the upper deck clamps.  These were made from beech because of its flexibility.  This was also a good time to make the upper deck beams.  They have a 6" roundup.  Only the beams under the deck openings will be visible so these were made from costello; the rest were make from ply.  Two of the beams were temporarily installed to prevent rotation of the hull.


As mentioned previously, I plan on having the gratings for the hatches removable.  The lower deck waterway was installed next.  Although the ability so see details on the lower deck diminishes the further you get from the midline, I decided to install waterways and ceiling timbers.  All of these were made in costello.  However, because the inner hull will barely be seen, these planks were edge-bent rather than spiled.  The apparent irregularity in the waterway of the first photo is an optical illusion, as it is not seen in the second photo.  


I was preparing to install the transom and the counter timbers when nothing started to make sense.  I double checked all of my measurements, both against the CAD drawing and the original plans and discovered that although I had done a beautiful job of fairing the outside of the hull, the tumblehome was too great by approximately 4".  This left me two options: keep going and simply build a slightly inaccurate hull or laminate extra wood onto the bulkheads and start the fairing process again.  The first option was unacceptable to me and so I spent another week undoing my error.  The transom/counter timber assembly is next.  The transom took only three attempts to get right.  My initial attempt was the alarm bell informing me that the fairing was incorrect.  My second attempt utilized a transom configuration from my CAD drawing; this was too small.  Finally, I took an over-sized piece of basswood, installed it and shaped it based on the curvature of the hull.  What I discovered was that the shape of the aft surface of the transom was almost identical to the shape from the CAD drawing.  Two brass pins secure it to the backbone.
 
I installed the six counter timbers into slots in the aft bulkheads.  Thread is tied between the ribbands to maintain the correct curvature.  This will facilitate fabrication of the filler pieces.




There is still some fairing to do on both sides but I will hold off on that until the lower deck is completed.

 
 
 

It has been a while since I updated the log but installing bulkheads and fairing a hull just is not very exciting.  The fist step in permanently installing the bulkeads is making a building board.  This will secure the keel so that the bulkheads (hopefully) will be installed plumb and square.  I was able to reuse my building board from Atalanta and simply glued Swallow's waterline plan to the board.  I secured two strips of wood on either side of the midline with oversize holes to that they could be snugged against the keel.

The bulkheads were cut from 1/4" basswood plywood.  I plan on constructing the lower deck amidships so the center of bulkheads F through 14 only extend to the level of the lower deck.  The other bulkheads extend to the upper deck.  

The bulkheads were installed using the same technique seen in the half hull project, clamping them to machinist squares.  I also keep a small level on the bulkhead while the glue sets.  This becomes most important with the bulkheads that only extend to the lower deck; there is only a narrow slot so it is easy to get them out of plumb.  Once all the bulkheads were in place, spacers were installed to stiffen the hull in preparation for fairing.


I use a combination of techniques to fair the hull, including sanding discs on the Dremel, sanding blocks and files.  One thing which is very helpful for the concave surfaces in the stern is rolling sandpaper around one of the rubber sleeves from my spindle sander.  Before I owned the spindle sander I would use a shot glass.  The key in fairing a hull is taking a lot of breaks.  It is too easy (for me at least) to remove too much wood otherwise.  On this hull you can see a few places that happened.  Those spots were built back up with strips of walnut from the scrap bin.  One techniqe I use to check for a fair run is to take strips of masking tape and run them along the hull.  Another useful technique is to run a marker along the bulkhead.  As the hull approaches fair, the marker is gradually sanded away. 
 
At this point I am reasonably satisfied with the shape of the hull.  Several of the spacers become loose during the fairing process.  Rather than replacing them, I ran a ribband along the hull, gluing it in place and then securing it more with zip ties.  The red marks represent the wale and the bottom of the rail.  The plans show the gunports extending to the rail but the model shows an additional row of planking above the ports.  I have not decided which direction to go at this point.  Neither the plans nor the model are "as built" and it was common to add the extra row of planking to help protect the crew.  

After having been away from any serious ship modeling for more than a month due to a family illness, I'm back home now and have been missing ship modeling so much, that I'm trying to get back to my many projects to get some things finished up. I'm still having a bit of a difficult time getting my life back to "normal" and I don't know if it's stress about family matters, the time change, the elections, being overly tired, confused about how to reset and regroup after having been away for so long, Covid-19 separation, or what. But, it is affecting me a lot right now, so I'm having to force myself to get restarted on things, and I did make myself sit down and start the next step on the cog model.
 
First thing – I finally worked on finishing and mounting the rudder. First task was to make a couple blocks that will be needed. I went ahead and assembled all the blocks that came with the kit. If you're familiar with Chuck's larger-sized specialty blocks that he sells, these assemble in the same fashion. Sorry for the poor quality photo below. These blocks are very small and I had a hard time getting them into focus.
 
 
 
The rudder came out very nicely. The hardest part was gluing in the ultra tiny doughnut-shaped pieces that are used in the rudder hinges.
 

 
Shipyard gives you only exactly the number of parts you need, so the loss of a single piece will leave you short. And, unfortunately, one of the suckers jumped out of my grip and rolled into the abyss that is my carpeted floor. As you can see, there are three in the bag and I need four...
 

 
Since I don't plan on swinging the rudder around much, I figured I could fake things a bit and get away with having the one missing piece. You can't see it anyway, as it's hidden by the black rudder irons.
 

 
The rudder looks pretty good in place, so I think I'm okay with the shortage. Now, I'm just realizing how much more careful I need to be with the model, so as not to accidentally tear off the rudder. The kit comes with a mounting cradle. I don't know if I will want to use that, but I'm just realizing that it might be time to give some thought to how I'm going to mount this model.
 
My normal "go to" for lighter models like this, is to use brass posts that fit up into the keel a little ways. That will be okay for a final display, but I'm going to need a working stand of some kind. The clinker planking will be a bit of an issue here, since I don't want to damage it in the process.
 
But, in any case, here's my final pic, showing the tiller with the blocks mounted. I need to add some cleats next, but I haven't painted them yet, so I'm now prepping the whole laser-cut card sheet for painting, giving it all an initial coat of the light colored paint number 03 in the kit, before painting the wood color.
 

 
Clare

Congratulations, just a beautyful model.

Hello, thank you very much for your likes, friend Anobio Punctatum  I bought the cannons in a store in my country Chile, they are in 3D resin, it is the only thing that I did not build, I bought all 28, plus 6 bronze but on a larger scale, 1 / 35 for my next project, HMS Winchelsea. A hug and I beg you to sell me the plans of the HMS Triton that you are making.

Wow, that was a lot of progress in the last few month. Your model looks so beautyful. Viewing on the pictures is a big motivation to continue woith my own model.
I have one question: where did you get this beautyful guns?

Wow, that was a lot of progress in the last few month. Your model looks so beautyful. Viewing on the pictures is a big motivation to continue woith my own model.
I have one question: where did you get this beautyful guns?

Thank you, Dan!  What makes it all the more gratifying is how easy it is to do.
 
Well, this has been a banner week in my mobile shipyard.  I’ve made up the false amortisement windows, and I have finished modifying and prepping to paint the beakhead bulkhead.
 




What’s missing is the lyre carving between the windows.  I’ll re-draw that this weekend, and get busy making those next week.
 
Now, these windows would be fine, as is, but they’re a little two-dimensional, IMO.  Adding just a little bit of moulding gives the windows a better sense of dimension:

I will likely just paint them flat black with either white or yellow ocher mullions.  I haven’t yet decided.
 
The Beakhead Bulkhead:


After grafting-on side extension pieces to make up the extra width of the hull, I decided to close what I find to be the exaggerated open timberhead space on the bulkhead.  I will cut-in the cathead timbers, at deck level, when it comes time to install them.

Once painted, this paneled effect will disappear.  I added another band of moulding to delineate the space:


I decided to close the lower chase ports, as they won’t be armed, anyway.  I also filled the concavities that would ordinarily accept the lower footing of the roundhouses; these were no longer necessary, as the bulkhead has been set back, by its thickness, so that the ship sides overlap it, as would be the case in actual practice.
 
As a side note - I have found that I really like the Tamiya white putty; it’s much finer than the squadron white, easier to apply and more durable.
 
I, then, scraped away the raised grain; re-engraved the plank seams so that they extended all the way to the ship sides; sanded for texture with 50 grit paper, and drilled for the nailing.  To finish up my modifications, I decided to add a field of fleurs, as was often done at this time.  I also decided to make use of my foliate diamond ornaments for the band I created when filling-in the timberheads.

Next, I’ll prime, paint and install the bulkhead.
 
As always - thank you for the likes and looking in!
 

I appreciate the compliment, Mark!
 
Well, with the harps made, the windows are now complete, and I’m about 60% of the way, done, with the amortisement.
 
Final assembly will take some finessing, but here is what we have so far:

Next up, I will tackle the semi-structural elements above the windows.
 
Thanks for the likes and for looking in!

The beakhead bulkhead is painted, now, and ready for installation.  Before I do so, though, I will do a little addition to increase the glue surface area, backing the bulkhead.
 
I decided at the last minute to add panel framing around the foliate diamond ornaments.  It echos, if not exactly, panel framing around the lowest tier of fleurs on the upper bulwarks.

I didn’t really have the necessary space to copy this, so I simplified the paneling.  In fact, I originally wanted to use fleurs, but I couldn’t reduce them enough to make it work.  Even the smaller fleurs that I made for the stern counter were too big.
 
So, here’s the paint work bright and clean, as on the first day of her re-launching in 1689/90:

And here is two years of sea grime and paint oxidation, as just before the battle of Barfleur:

The blue, here, is really a cobalt blue, but it deepens to the ultra-marine with a very light wash of walnut ink.
 
The first red acrylic I applied was a proprietary mix for BLICK art supply.  The color was lovely, but I soon discovered that the paint would wash away when wetted.  I’m not sure why that is; perhaps, in thinning the paint with regular tap water, I altered its curing properties.
 
Anyway, I washed away the paint with soap and water and then applied ModelMaster’s Insignia Red acrylic, which is the red I’ve been using everywhere else.  I can successfully thin this formulation with tap water.  It turns into a pleasing red ocher, once the walnut ink is applied.
 
The other decision I had to make was whether to paint the top sheer of drift rails gold or yellow ocher.  I decided, ultimately, to go with the yellow ocher, and to save gold for the ornaments, themselves.

Thanks for the likes, comments and looking in!

Hola...

Hola,terminada la artilleria.

Hola
 

Jig is ready to serve, I forgot to include few important guidelines to the jig, so I had to plot them by hand:

 
Then I assembled some visible ribs and aplied the grooves to the edges. Some test paint was used  to see if the grooves will be visible when painted . They are, so I will continue to do them on the rest of the ship.

Hello every one. Here is a small update on my build showing the stages that making a cast knee goes through to become a cast knee for my build. Also a few photos showing the fore mast partner on the  upper gun deck beams.The photo also show's the bolts being installed and is made up of 10 piece's of wood. Hope you enjoy the photo's
 
 

hello
next to the ship I made ​​cannon (bronze material)
Only 8 pieces and make took me a couple of weeks.
All of the cannons are made by me

Finally, the second planking belt is completed.  My biggest decision was whether to have the aft planking feather out at the transom or leave it erose.  I saw examples from this era using both approaches and could not make out the detail on the model.  I decided to continue to feather the planks.  Those of you who are wiser than I, please correct me if I am wrong, as it would not take too much work to go the other route.  I removed the transom planking and will re-plank it after the hull planking is completed.  Only six more rows to go!






 

I reached a milestone today: the first planking belt has been completed.  So far, I am pleased with the appearance.  For anyone toying with the idea of building a clinker- planked hull, I am finding this a lot more difficult than carvel construction.  There is no room for error and edge-bending that last half-millimeter does not work the way is would on a carvel hull.  I have found that the easiest way to secure the planks during gluing-up is with planking screws, placing a piece of scrap between the cross-piece of the planking screw and the plank to prevent denting.  My layout has a butt joint at frame M.  I decided that this was too far forward and placed a basswood filler between frames K and M. 
 
The first belt has four rows of planking; the upper two belts will each have five.  So far it appears that a stealer will not be necessary but I will have a dropped plank in the upper belt.






 

Good morning.

Congratulations, just a beautyful model.

I went and got more 1/32" basswood yesterday. I'm back in business! Pics to come soon.

I will take a seat and follow your log with great interest.