BANYAN

Mikie, you might also investigate using a punch and die set such as the one shown here:
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5m4qaRcmXdU
 
There are several different versions from different companies; some use plastic card, others user a shim metal to create the shapes.  These are very realistic finishes but the punch/die sets can be a tad expensive - so you will need to evaluate how often you would use it.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Mikie, you might also investigate using a punch and die set such as the one shown here:
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5m4qaRcmXdU
 
There are several different versions from different companies; some use plastic card, others user a shim metal to create the shapes.  These are very realistic finishes but the punch/die sets can be a tad expensive - so you will need to evaluate how often you would use it.
 
cheers
 
Pat

General progress view/update.
It has been 20 months since the keel was laid.
I have not kept a detail log of the build hours, however I reckon 850hrs would be a fair figure to put on the build so far.
 
Quiet a few other items I have made not "glued" on the deck yet.
- Windlass/Belfry
- Sheet Bits(4)
- Spar Gallows(2)
- Capstan
- Steering Wheel
- cannons(6) part built
 
I've taken Greg L's advice and slowly progressing along the deck, making all the items.
One big "fixing" session at the completion.
That will be a milestone - hoping that will be before April 2016, mark 2 years since I stared.
 
Dave R

Shipyard Update,
So been a bit slow of late.
Battled our way to make the Knighthead(the wooden thing over the bow) and Timberhaed ends.
These items seem to provide multiple functions to house the Bowsprit, locate the Cat-heads and Bumpkins.
I purposely have left excess material in the trough(for the bowsprit) and either side to trim later on.
Interesting making and adding these items now, when I'll make the Bowsprit later(work out the rake w.r.t the Knighthead)
 

Marking out the shape. I used pear wood.
 


Waiting for the glue to dry. I drilled a couple of holes for pins in each side to hold the shape.
 

Glued in place, roughed in. 
 

Nearly finished the 2 Cat-heads.
 
 
Dave R

Absolutely brillliant. The rope looks perfect.
I have taken a break from the shipyard to build a plastic model aircraft to enter a local modelling competition. the transition from wood to plastic is quite hard. Plastic is not very forgiving, you have be sharp with painting and finishing. I think this small break will sharpen up my modelling skills.
great work!

That is a terrific method for turning small items like spokes, Remo. Deflection at those sizes is always an issue. 

Thanks all for your very generous comments!
 
Mike Y and Pat figured it out, I expected more of you would have     
 
Here is the setup on my Sherline
 

 

 

 
It takes some practice to get it right as it is not an exact science. The inner diameter of the tube is a bit bigger than the stock so in the beginning it will flex under the pressure of the file, once the spoke gets thinner it will push against the file due to the centrifugal force. Practice makes perfect as always. 
 

 
After today no more spokes, I accidentally bumped into the jig and broke it :-( 
 
Remco
 
ps TFFM refers to the excellent collection of books The fully framed model vol 1-4 by David Antscherl and Greg Herbert 

I’ve been working on the stern.  I didn’t like the look of the swiss pear.  I wanted more of a contrast with the boxwood.  So I removed the pear planks and replaced them with walnut.  The walnut is much darker and I like the color.  In the process, I re-did the ‘openings’ for the stern windows, I re-painted the windows, AND I re-printed the name on the stern.  All in all, I’m pleased with the all of the results.
 

 
I added the beams for the quarter deck as well as spare wood to support the opening for the stairs for the officers.  The stairs were built and added.  After a few tries, I think the stairs came out O.K. (even though I had to use swiss pear to get the size of the sides and steps right).  The color is not so important here.
 

 

Wonderful!
 
I'm still amazed by the detail at such a small scale. I had trouble with my last build breaking things that were 10 times as big the fittings here.
 
Thank you for posting your build. Looking forward to the next one.
 
Richard.

Last post on this build. I finally received the rope coils from North Start Models in the Ukraine. I only used them for the braces on the davits, but they are a nice bit of kit for that final bit of icing on the cake.

I can't believe the level of detail you have achieved; truely outstanding quality of work Remco.
 
How does that tube jig work?  i am assuming you load a dowel and hand file using this as the template?
 
cheers
 
Pat

I can't believe the level of detail you have achieved; truely outstanding quality of work Remco.
 
How does that tube jig work?  i am assuming you load a dowel and hand file using this as the template?
 
cheers
 
Pat

I can't believe the level of detail you have achieved; truely outstanding quality of work Remco.
 
How does that tube jig work?  i am assuming you load a dowel and hand file using this as the template?
 
cheers
 
Pat

And now for something completely different. I took a break from the tedious deck work, intrigued by Garus' steering wheel on his excellent Victory and especially his duplicating device, I build the steering wheel. Using the technique described in TFFM 2 and 3. Not easy but lots of fun, frustration and multiple redo's later, the results:
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Remco

On the images in the previous there are two parts visible that have not been discussed yet: a round cap that will close-off the electrical installations of the motor and a clamp to fix the machine at the workbench. The round cap actually is a bakelite cover for some electrical home installations and which had almost the right internal diameter. I just needed to enlarge it on the lathe by a few tenth of milimetres. It is held by two M1.6 cheese-head screws for which the casting was drilled and tapped. The clamp belonged to an obsolote electrical drill. The reciprocal movement of the filing machine will necessitate some form of fixation, or it is likely to jump around a bit. In addition, the high centre of gravity of the machine would make working with it like this rather unstable.
 

Reduction sleeve for fixing the motor and 12V DC electrical installations
 
It was now time to assemble the various parts. The ballbearing was thoroughly greased and pushed back into its seat. Next the drive shaft was pushed in and the crank and piston assembled. Holding the motor concentric in the casting initially caused a bit of headscratching, but then I chanced in the scrap-box upon a set of plastic reduction rings from a machine (they may have well belonged to the very jig-saw) and one of them had just the right internal diameter to fit the electric motor. The drive-shaft was secured with a set-screw to the gearbox output shaft. The scrap-box furnished also a rubberised cable complete with kink protector, for which the bakelite cap had been drilled out. When the assembly was complete, the machine was ready for a first test-run.
 

Brass guiding plate
During the test-run I noticed something previously overlooked: the piston did not have a firm guide to prevent it from rotating. It was thought that the crank would give enough guidance, but it still wiggled somewhat during each stroke, which is rather undesirable for precision work. Therefore, a brass guiding plate was added to the cross-head that slides along the crank-plate of the drive shaft and thus prevents the piston from rotating. One could have also made a new crosshead that touches the crank-plate, but I wanted to avoid a steel on steel contact and the guiding plate can be adjusted for wear.
 
To be continued ...

From the Shipyard.
Hope Dave's happy with this one - Deck Skylight.
 
Bit more paint touch up if I can get into the tight places.
 
White lids to reflect the light into the hull.
The bars over the top were a killer.
Used black card for the metal frame and hinges.
 
Hopefully it assimilates in with the other deck features.
 
 
Dave R

The Skylight,
I have had the shipyard busy working on the Deck Skylight.
We made a frame to hold the "box" square whilst glue drying, and then to hold it whilst the lids fashioned.
At first I had the sides higher, but cut them down to this size.
Currently working on the hinges and bar setup over the lids, so more pictures to come.
 
PS. Does any of you chaps, know how to re-order the pictures that are loaded up ?
Basic box in build frame.

Where she goes.

Lids underway.


Taking shape

 
Dave R

Looking great Dennis! The lighting is a nice touch.
 
Steve

Mike - I know I'm looking enviously at your work, yup, we're in step (at least until you shoot past  )
 
Ray - you're so right.  What I actually really like about this kit is that it allows you to try things that maybe aren't necessary, but is a good proving ground for the future.  One thing I know, I won't be spiling a full hull until I'm retired!  The planking udner what will be copper will 'utilitarian' - i.e. something best covered by copper - which of course is as much work, if not more, than another layer of planking.
 
Here's how I dealt with the planking at the tricky plank at the counter.  I'm planning to use strip for most of the planking where I can but the first one required a spiled one.  Shaping planks with a steam iron is definitely something that helps.
 
Spiled planking at the bow pretty much done, walnut will be used below here.  Without wishing to waste any boxwood, I'm going about 8-10mm below where the waterline will be just to be on safe side.  This has had a quick surface sand to convince myself it will look OK in the end...
 

 
The tricky transition at the counter and the wale.  Spiled plank next to a 4x1mm strip for comparison.
 

Second last post, just a scale comparison. 1/60 Vs 1/350.

Fantastic work Greg, very fine detail well executed.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Very nice work Greg, she looks a treat!  Great detail and finish at that scale.
 
cheers
 
pat

Very nice work Greg, she looks a treat!  Great detail and finish at that scale.
 
cheers
 
pat

Very nice work Greg, she looks a treat!  Great detail and finish at that scale.
 
cheers
 
pat

She looks great John, beautiful model!
 
cheers
 
Pat