BANYAN

Finally, with the machine completed, I managed to make a couple of short movies, showing it in action. However, it still needs to be tested in anger ...
 
http://www.maritima-et-mechanika.org/tools/diefiler/DieFiler-video-1.mpg
 
http://www.maritima-et-mechanika.org/tools/diefiler/DieFiler-video-2.mpg
 
http://www.maritima-et-mechanika.org/tools/diefiler/DieFiler-video-3.mpg

..... continued.
 
An interesting little piece of "iron" work is a pair of Iron Knees, used to brace the Beam Arms. The pics should be self-explanatory :
 

 

 

 

 

 
  Danny

A pic I forgot to add in the last update - the Limber Boards, which cover the limber channels to stop them from getting blocked with ballast etc :
 

 
Now the well is finished it's time to do the lower deck framing, starting with the Hanging Knees. There are only 6 to make for each deck. These need to be individually shaped to fit the internal timbers, even in this relatively straight section of the hull :
 

 

 
The Lodging Knees are of varying shapes and sizes. This is the only one that would be the same as in the rest of the ship :
 

 

 
At the Deadflat, which is one frame aft of the forward part of this model, is a pair of Opposed Lodging Knees. The hanging knees in the forward part of the ship are forward of the beams, whilst those in the after part of the ship are behind them. Therefore the need for a transition from fore to aft with the lodging knees. Because of the area I'm using for the cross-section I can only show half of the forward (upper) knee :
 

 
Next come the Carlings, the longitudinal framing timbers. These are of various widths, depending on their functions. The "standard" ones are 6" wide, those alongside the hatches are 7 1/2". I've notched all the carlings for the Ledges, some of which are already fitted :
 

 

 
Continued in next post .....

Today's update. I scraped off all the vajello red/black paint and half of the brass. I found a Humbrol Wine colour which is very similar and it will still need about three coats and maybe a bit of black added.
 
The housing has been given a pinwash and two lighter shades of yellow drybrush.
 
The Fire Hose reels have been added as well as a nozzle (from the end of a set of barrels I misordered.
 
I am pretty happy to date.

Cheers Captgino, Pat, Mike and the 'likes'....
 
Have started planking above the wales.  I'm going to use primarily wood strip where I can, so will not be following the planking scheme laid out in the AOTS book religiously.   Question below that I would appreciate insight into....
 
Relatively straightforward, initial challenge was to ensure the smooth run of planks around the curve of the wales which was a bit trickier than I expected but will likely turn out fine with a little sanding down the road.  The first gun port presented the first real challenge as this needed to be recessed as it has a lid, and also would have had a very thin sliver of wood at the base.  I got round this by simply gluing a small section of strip to the side of a longer length and then cutting back to size - saved a lot of time cutting from scratch.
 

 
The second gun port does not have a lid so I took the planks to the lip of the port.  Once dried, my heart then suddenly leapt into my mouth.  The approach I took seemed intuitive as the second port does not have a lid, but I was overcome with doubt so I perused a load of photos to confirm or deny whether this was correct, or whether the ports without a lid should also be recessed with a lip.  After looking at many pictures, I'm none the wiser...
 
My questions:
Have I messed up???  ​Gun port 1 has a lid and logically has a lip that the lid would sit in.  Gun port 2 (and most others) do not have a lid, so should the planking extend fully to the edge of the port as I have done? Less critically, should the ends of these planks be painted red?  Chuck and others seem to leave the planking natural, but I'm pretty sure that on real ships the inside face is also painted red.  Hmmm...  

Hi All,
Well my shipyard has finally started back from the Xmas break.
Has been into action constructing the Companion Hatch.
At the scale of 1:60, sure is fiddly timber work and fabricating more hinges.
I laminated the sides, to have side cut-outs(red boxes).
 

 
 
Unfortunately, the pictures do not show how close the arms of the capstan mix(just clash) with the top hinges. I'll probably lower the lower hatch a bit so it clears.
 
Onto ?, always something else to build.
 
 
Dave R

Those chainplates gave me headaches but finally got them o.k.

Good evening all, Time for a little update.
Nothing new, just more planking.



 

There are coal bunker vents on the plans but not on the kit, so i used some coal scuttles on the sides to represent these. As you can see the Eduard Etch is engraved, but the addition of actual doors and  windows makes a world of difference, these will need to be washed and dry brushed yet, but a lot of these details will be hard to see on the completed ship.
 
I still need to add some more hatches and fire hoses but they do not need to go on yet.

Problem solved. The planks line up and it will still be fairly invisible when I finish as most of the stiff is covered and i can have the last little bit of housing off centre to allow the gangway to run true. Working on an even surface should allow things to speed up considerably.
 
The Eduard etch is just that, the doors and hatches are etched into the brass. I shall paint them first then add after market German hatches and doors over the top. I find that if I do it this way the details come out better with a pin wash.
 
The hammock boxes are going to have to be re done. The vajello paint keeps coming off and taking the brass with it even after it has been varnished down. You can see the white stripes on the red bits. Maybe I needed to get thier primer but I'm just not going to start playing that game. No biggie as I intend on using a red brown (there is no red black available in an enamel). 

That is some very nice planking mate with near perfect symmetry - she will look great with the planking completed.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Just an exercise sent to try your patience mate   I am assuming (sorry no real other option of word)  it is easier for you to cutaway and extend/fill-in other bits of the decking after plugging the hole a bit, than it is to remodel the superstructure?  Which is more correct to the scale/actual size of the ship?
 
Good luck but I know you'll be able to salvage the situation.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Just an exercise sent to try your patience mate   I am assuming (sorry no real other option of word)  it is easier for you to cutaway and extend/fill-in other bits of the decking after plugging the hole a bit, than it is to remodel the superstructure?  Which is more correct to the scale/actual size of the ship?
 
Good luck but I know you'll be able to salvage the situation.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Hi Guys
 
I have posted this stuff on the Jim Byrnes model machines thread - i repeat her as it also fits in with this topic.
 
Shaft lock to make blade changing easier:-
 
 

Small update. Bulwarks have been planked, filled with plaster, and sanded. (they are formed by 4 layers of wood: 1st planking, 2nd planking, some vertical supports on the inside and finally the last horizontal planks). Here the decks have been masked in preparation for painting.
 

 

 

Hi Mikie,
 
One way is to mark the small line for the slot, dimple the start point for several drill holes (to stop the bit wandering) and drill out a series of small holes along the line with the appropriately sized micro-drill bit - ensure one hole is at the near top and bottom of the slot. use a sharp blade to score the edge of the slot and cut out the waste; finish with a small file.
 
If you have a mill this can be a lot easier - just ensure you set up the piece in the vice/holding jig on the sliding table accurately.  That's how I did mine (at scale 1:60). 
 
cheers
 
Pat

Hi Mikie,
 
One way is to mark the small line for the slot, dimple the start point for several drill holes (to stop the bit wandering) and drill out a series of small holes along the line with the appropriately sized micro-drill bit - ensure one hole is at the near top and bottom of the slot. use a sharp blade to score the edge of the slot and cut out the waste; finish with a small file.
 
If you have a mill this can be a lot easier - just ensure you set up the piece in the vice/holding jig on the sliding table accurately.  That's how I did mine (at scale 1:60). 
 
cheers
 
Pat

Very nice work - great detail.  It's a pity the customer took the lion before you completed it but I do look forward to your next effort.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Very nice work - great detail.  It's a pity the customer took the lion before you completed it but I do look forward to your next effort.
 
cheers
 
Pat

OK folks, repairs completed.  I decided to simply reslot the channel as the boat boom (when fitted later) will mask any obvious repair marks.
 
The following photos show most of the process.  I temporarily pinned the affected shroud to keep it clear and prevent any slackening of the ratlines etc.  I then removed the chain plate, slotted the channel capping in preparation for the repaired chain plate, cleaned up the fitting and resoldered the padeye ring to the chains, then refitted the assembly.  I used a scrap piece of wood to create the 'plug' in the channel capping then rerove a new lanyard and touched up with paint.  One of the benefits of painting is that it can hide these joints
 
What do you think?
 
Cheers
 
Pat
 
     
 
  

Thanks Mark,  I am still debating whether to take the full length of the capping off the channel or just cut a slot and replace it after repairing the chain plate, and using the boat boom (when fitted later) to assist in masking the joints.  I am worried that in attempting to remove the full length of capping that I may cause even further damage and with all the rigging on the mast near complete, that would be a tremendous setback.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Very nice work - great detail.  It's a pity the customer took the lion before you completed it but I do look forward to your next effort.
 
cheers
 
Pat

One of my recent work. British Lion.
Unfortunately, this work at this stage and over. To finish before the end of it will be gone. It so happened that I met with the customer and showed him how things were going with the lion. And the customer has not yet decided to take the unfinished threads. He liked the state of incompleteness. And he asked to cut another lion before the end. But there's more to come. I hope I can with the time and show a complete lion.
 
Hopefully interpreter translated understandable.
 

Mark, you're setting a great example in the art of being willing to work over what was complete and to constantly improve.  Great stuff, mate!
 
John

Thanks for the comments and the "likes".    
 
Good eye, Druxey.  It's not the counter.. it's that framing piece I put in.  It's about 1 mm too wide and sticks out too far.  Rats....  Easy to fix though. 
 
Edit of the edit:   close inspection shows a tolerance build up.   I'll fix it during the planking as the light on the port side is about 1 mm too wide.  Not sure what happened but it's easily fixed.
 
Actually, gentlemen, I've become even harder on myself and bolder in redos as my scrap box will testify.  But it's all good.  I'm also accepting the "dings"...