BANYAN

Draft 1 of the deck.
 
I'm at the stage where i have to place the deck or I cannot progress. It looks as rough as guts at the moment but I can't remedy any of the gaps and errors until it was stuck down. There are little areas where it is not 100% flush but with the railings and the davits it will cover many sins.
 
As I cut the deck in three pieces, it adds to the challenge as there are photo etch ladders to go to the amidship area.
 
The lines on the deck are .01mm brass that replicate the strips to hold down the red linoleum. They bend very easily and will be straitened up now the deck is attached. I'm happy with the wine colour as it is very close to the red black required.
 
 
Amidships requires 4 sets of double doors. To the stern there will be an I beam that runs the length of the amidships area which is a trolley for ammo. The eduard doors are not to scale and waaaay to big, even though I had to fabricate the bulkheads. The doors are aftermarket and reduced at the stern end to facilitate the I beam.
 
There are a few gaps, some which I will remedy, and others will not be visible when the deck furniture is attached. Once I have fixed up the messiness of the deck as it is, I can add the red pinstripe to the hull, then start on the details.
 
There are heaps of vents not mentioned anywhere in the instructions which I ordered from battle fleet models which appears to have gone bust or the owner has had a breakdown meaning lots of scratch building, which at this scale is a lot harder to make look authentic. There is no company in the world that makes cowl vents at 1/350.

Hi Ian, now that I am retired I have more time to read more logs and came across your very interesting and very nice build of Unicorn.  Some great research and discussion here, and I look forward to taking the time to read through thoroughly in the near future.
 
cheers
 
Pat

While waiting for paint to dry , I tried a bit of puddening to see how it would look
 
cheers
 
Pat
 

OK folks, repairs completed.  I decided to simply reslot the channel as the boat boom (when fitted later) will mask any obvious repair marks.
 
The following photos show most of the process.  I temporarily pinned the affected shroud to keep it clear and prevent any slackening of the ratlines etc.  I then removed the chain plate, slotted the channel capping in preparation for the repaired chain plate, cleaned up the fitting and resoldered the padeye ring to the chains, then refitted the assembly.  I used a scrap piece of wood to create the 'plug' in the channel capping then rerove a new lanyard and touched up with paint.  One of the benefits of painting is that it can hide these joints
 
What do you think?
 
Cheers
 
Pat
 
     
 
  

Some further progress on the nun (anchor) buoys, with one complete.  Not really happy with it, but at this scale 1:60) it is only15mm (core) so I can live with it - next one should be better.  That said, still a bit unhappy with the gap due one slightly too long sling leg. I also made one of the ring ropes to large in circumference and it sits a little low.
 
One small disaster today (photos in a couple of days) with one of the chain plates giving way. I need to remove the leading edge /cap of the channel, remove the deadeye lanyard, repair the solder joint and reassemble - one for Danny's boo-boo forum I think
 
Anyway here is the completed nun-buoy - I left the wood natural to simulate a cork core.
 
cheers
 
Pat
 
     

Here is a photo of a double sheaved block I made a while back for a model.

Looking good mate; keep those updates coming as they are interesting readng.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Thanks Popeye; yep in real life that would be the case and I agree in that some imperfections add a sense of reality - it would have been a very strict ship (and probably a mutinous environment) had these things been that precise
 
cheers and thanks for looking in again
 
Pat

They look good BW; glad you took the tougher option as this adds some additional nice detail to the ship.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Hi Ian, now that I am retired I have more time to read more logs and came across your very interesting and very nice build of Unicorn.  Some great research and discussion here, and I look forward to taking the time to read through thoroughly in the near future.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Great attention to detail Danny - are you setting yourself any challenges with this minor build?
 
cheers
 
Pat

Pat, thank you for your encouraging words. They are greatly appreciated from someone whose skills and knowledge I greatly respect. Your Endeavour is on my "follow" flag list. I fear if you go through my log in full you will only see the bodger's view on life!
 
Mike, the brass rod made a huge difference. I thought 1.0mm diameter rod would just flex around but the result is very strong - like steel reinforcement in concrete I guess. I could have done without the concern that the drill bit would emerge in an embarrassing place - better to do it during initial build!
 
Following our PM discussion where I felt the Corel canon was a 12 pounder (based on Chuck's diagram), I played with my "Hahn" spread sheet - yep, the carriage is spot on for a 12 pounder at 1:75 but the barrel is a little short. Seems like our Unicorn/Lyme has much bigger teeth than the prototype.     Be afraid - be very afraid...........of our little boats!
 
 
 
​     

Hi Ian, now that I am retired I have more time to read more logs and came across your very interesting and very nice build of Unicorn.  Some great research and discussion here, and I look forward to taking the time to read through thoroughly in the near future.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Hi Ian, now that I am retired I have more time to read more logs and came across your very interesting and very nice build of Unicorn.  Some great research and discussion here, and I look forward to taking the time to read through thoroughly in the near future.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Hi Ian, now that I am retired I have more time to read more logs and came across your very interesting and very nice build of Unicorn.  Some great research and discussion here, and I look forward to taking the time to read through thoroughly in the near future.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Hi Ian, now that I am retired I have more time to read more logs and came across your very interesting and very nice build of Unicorn.  Some great research and discussion here, and I look forward to taking the time to read through thoroughly in the near future.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Too kind Sjors 
 
Quick update...I'd mentioned earlier that I had been trying to decide on whether to install the venting ports.  Well, I could delay no longer and had to make a decision....and decided to go for it.  Hopefully pictures below are self explanatory, but the reason I was wary was because these ports need to integrate into the thickstuff of the wale.  Positioning proved to be a challenge as these should follow the line of the deck, not the wale.  Of course once the lids are installed these will blend into the hull, but, as always...figuring it all out was a nice way to pass an evening.  The position on planks were marked on the ship as the planking is curved but cut off the ship with LOTS of fine tuning.  The black colouring was marker pen on the first planking simply to allow me to see the outline more clearly.  Now to continue planking, and do the port side, progress is a little more pleasant now as every step is now visibly moving her forward.
 

 

Thanks Popeye; yep in real life that would be the case and I agree in that some imperfections add a sense of reality - it would have been a very strict ship (and probably a mutinous environment) had these things been that precise
 
cheers and thanks for looking in again
 
Pat

I dunno Pat........I think your shrouds are excellent!   in real life,  it's hypothetically impossible for all of the dead eyes to be the same height.......not if they've been periodically adjusted for tension.   same as the gun port lids {I'm sure that was drilled into their heads during gunnery practice}.  I feel it's the tiny things like this,  that gives it a life - like look.   I know we try to shoot for perfection,  but I think life - like and realism is harder to achieve.   I still have a long way to go,  to get where you folks are,  with your wonderful builds  

Your planking looks fabulous Jason !!!!
And so straight.......
 
Sjors

Thanks guys, I spent 6 hours today (last day of leave, wife at work and kids at school) laying the brass strips on the deck that hold the Lino. Apparently they are 5cm wide which at 1/350 are 0.142mm. It's been an adventure getting them to stick at that scale! Once that's done to my satisfaction I can finally do the bulkheads on either end of the amidships section, get the fore and rear decks glued down, fill the gaps, do the pinstripes, and then start attaching the etch housings I have already posted.
 
Soo much to do but no where near as daunting as the grown ups doing a 3 master.

OK folks, repairs completed.  I decided to simply reslot the channel as the boat boom (when fitted later) will mask any obvious repair marks.
 
The following photos show most of the process.  I temporarily pinned the affected shroud to keep it clear and prevent any slackening of the ratlines etc.  I then removed the chain plate, slotted the channel capping in preparation for the repaired chain plate, cleaned up the fitting and resoldered the padeye ring to the chains, then refitted the assembly.  I used a scrap piece of wood to create the 'plug' in the channel capping then rerove a new lanyard and touched up with paint.  One of the benefits of painting is that it can hide these joints
 
What do you think?
 
Cheers
 
Pat
 
     
 
  

Great attention to detail Danny - are you setting yourself any challenges with this minor build?
 
cheers
 
Pat

While waiting for paint to dry , I tried a bit of puddening to see how it would look
 
cheers
 
Pat
 

OK folks, repairs completed.  I decided to simply reslot the channel as the boat boom (when fitted later) will mask any obvious repair marks.
 
The following photos show most of the process.  I temporarily pinned the affected shroud to keep it clear and prevent any slackening of the ratlines etc.  I then removed the chain plate, slotted the channel capping in preparation for the repaired chain plate, cleaned up the fitting and resoldered the padeye ring to the chains, then refitted the assembly.  I used a scrap piece of wood to create the 'plug' in the channel capping then rerove a new lanyard and touched up with paint.  One of the benefits of painting is that it can hide these joints
 
What do you think?
 
Cheers
 
Pat