BANYAN

Hi Rod, great to catch up with you last night at the Club meet.  Good luck with the second-planking but you have a very good base onto which to build.
 
My personal preference is to add the stem and keel etc before the second planking to act as a 'false' or faux rabbet.  As to glue, my preference is white PVA or Titebond II and I usually put a very thin layer (smear) on both the plank and the hull then let it go slightly tacky (sticky finger job so have a bunch of wipes ready to go ).  That way you can still move/jiggle the plank into position a bit and doesn't take as long to set.  For holding the planks in place I use a number of methods including map pins (the ones with a plastic lipped top to them which I push into the first layer under the new plank edge.  The next plank will cover the hole.  The other method I use is elastic bands and balsa soft blocks (Balsa strips/billets in various sizes as a bundle are very cheap at Bunnings).  I put a bit of electrical tape on two sides of a block I cut from the balsa (various sizes) then put the elastic bands completely around the hull in several places along the length of the plank and insert a block PVA side down/up under the elastic band then tension as required (either a second wrap or a toggle to twist). The balsa being soft bends/compresses slightly to shape and holds the plank well; I use the tape to allow it to slip/slide a little better when positioning and stop the rubber/elastic bands digging into the block too much.  I have built up a large array of different sized bands for this and also use surgical rubber tube for this purpose.
 
Please give me a PM and I will pass my details if you wish to chat about these techniques - at work so can't post a photo - don't let the boss know though  
 
cheers
 
Pat
 
Edit:  The electrical tape also minimises any excess glue from the planks sticking to the balsa during the clamping period.

Thanks John, Christian, Ben, Adam and Nils .
 
I've finished fitting the Channels, Standards and Drift Rails to the Port side :
 

 

 
Quarter Badge Crown
 
I've also carved the Crown for the Upper Finishing on the Quarter Badge. It's certainly not up to the standard of some of the great carvers on this site, but I'm happy enough with it. Here are some pics from the rough-cut blank to the finished article. I used English Box - it took me about 3 hours work. It measures 6mm wide by 4mm high :
 

 

 

 

 

 
  Danny

You're crowning glory, Danny.
 
John

This is my second attempt at a wooden model ship after failing miserably several years ago - basically as I had no idea what I was doing and the kit I attempted had very poor instructions.
 
I chose the Colonial Brig Perseverance for two reasons:
According to the guys at Modellers Shipyard, it's not too complex and ideal for a beginner, and It comes with a 3 DVD set showing a "master model maker" construction the model from start to finish. This really appealed to me as at the time I began, I had not discovered Model Ship World and really needed some guidance.
Here is the DVD cover and a photo of the completed model (not mine!)
 


 
As I am a new modeler its difficult for me to comment on the quality of the kit although the timber certainly does not seem to be as high quality as the timber in the Corel Unicorn kit that I started some time ago.  The limewood planking varied considerably in thickness meaning a lot of sanding on the first layer of planking but I don't know if this the norm or not.  Also, the silver ash deck planking varied considerably in width with some pieces 3mm, some 4mm and some 5mm wide.  Again, is this generally normal or not for a kit????
 
Unfortunately I started the model before I discovered MSW and therefore I don't have any photos of the early stages of construction.  I bought myself an Amati keel holder which has been very helpful. 
The bulkheads all fitted nicely to the keel and the fairing process although it seemed to take forever went smoothly.
Fitting the false deck also was a breeze.
 
As I am sure most beginners find, the first four or five planks went on very easily and I thought to myself, "this isn't hard at all", but soon I was needing to taper planks and to bend them laterally which I found rather challenging especially around the transom and onto the deadwood area.  I only needed a couple of stealers and made them (like wedges) as per the DVD instructions but I have since learned that tapering them to a sharp point is not really authentic. I guess it won't matter for the first planking.
 
I used one of those Amati plank benders which crimp the planks to illicit the bend and it worked just fine but I found that later when I came to sanding the planking that the crimps showed through.  Perhaps I am not using it properly and squeezing to hard???
 
Anyway, after several nights, I finished the planking.  Overall I was fairly happy with the result as there weren't many hollows or gaps to fill although I did need to fill a little where the planks transitioned from the hull to the deadwood as I was getting a bit of "clinker" effect.  Not sure how I should overcome this???
 
I made a big mistake of using a mixture of undiluted white glue and sawdust from the sanding to fill this area however when it dried it was so hard that I had to sand it for ages and ages to get it down to a smooth finish. 
I also sanded too heavily on one side where the planks bend around the tuck to the transom.  I realize now that this was because in the DVD, the instructor crimps the timber to make the bend but then files it to about 1/2 its original thickness.  I didn't take this into account when I started sanding and before I realized, made a nice little hole in the planking.
 
I still need to give the whole hull another sanding but will wait to do this until I finish the deck planking and a few other little jobs. 
 
I really enjoyed planking the deck apart from having to color in all the deck edges using a 6B pencil. Because the deck planking is only 0.6mm thick I found that it kept cutting the pencil lead off.  Although the instructions call for laying the decking in one long length, I decided to cut them into 100mm lengths to get a more authentic look.  I came unstuck because all the planks were of various widths and therefore I had to try plank after plank until I found one that matched the already glued plank perfectly in width.  Next time I will keep each cut plank together with the others that come from the same length to avoid this problem. 
 
Another thing that seemed odd was that the instructions called for installing mahogany strips to the inside of the bulwark which I duly performed and then the installation of the deck.  I had to cut and sand all of the edge planks very accurately so that there were no gaps between these planks and the lining of the bulwark.  I would have thought that it would be easier to install the lining to the inside of the bulwark after the deck planking has been laid as it will cover up any small gaps.   Is this generally the correct order to do these two tasks???
 
One thing that is troubling me is that the instructions state that I should epoxy the stern post, stem post and keel to the hull after I finish the second layer of planking.  I note that in many of the build logs on MSW these items are fixed after the first layer and then the second layer of planking is butted up against them.  This makes more sense to me.  Any advice greatly appreciated???
 
So this is where I am up to and where I will commence adding photos and no doubt asking lots more questions.  I have included some photos of my model below.  Its a bit rough but I am hoping that my second layer of planking will be much better and hide all of the mistakes I made in the first.
Thanks in advance for any hints and advice. 
 

Came the turn of the hind paws

Now crown





cut small parts separately



and the last item




well that's all. in the end I want to open another one of my secret. Photographing process work is also very useful. Often you can see that just not visible. Pictures help to see their mistakes. When working, don't remember how it looked figurine of a week ago. And if you suddenly have to start all over again (this happens), then you can better understand where to make changes and do not make a mistake опять.У photos have another benefit. When it was all over and the thread goes to the customer on the memory remains of those pictures.
 
 

I think it safe to say that many of us have missed the build log and are REALLY looking forward to seeing that amazing detail again - I almost got over the addiction and here you go teasing us again
 
cheers
 
Pat

I think it safe to say that many of us have missed the build log and are REALLY looking forward to seeing that amazing detail again - I almost got over the addiction and here you go teasing us again
 
cheers
 
Pat

I have been asked via a PM from Len about the use of Kodak 'Photo-Flo' and RIT dye for the coloring of line. 
 
I borrowed the idea from the online article by N. Roger Cole, Alert Provenence and Construction
(www.craftsmanshipmuseum.com/Cole.htm), that Greg Herbert. linked to.  Mr. Cole stated he obtained the colors of RIT from Walmart.  My two local stores don't carry it in their sewing departments.  I ordered the RIT colors from amazon along with the Kodak 'Photo-Flo', everything came from different vendors.
 
It seems that RIT has changed some of their colors, I couldn't find gold, only a yellow gold.  This is way too strong as yellow.  So I tested the mix until I obtained a good match to the Hemp color of Coats and Clark Dual Purpose polyester thread.  
 
Here is the blend  I came up with for running rigging:
 
          2 teaspoons of Tan
          1/8 teaspoon of pearl grey
          1/8 teaspoon of golden yellow
These are added to 16 ounces of hot water and mixed until dissolved.
 
Mr. Cole's blend for standing rigging looks to be on the chocolate side, I haven't as yet tried to correct this.  Here is His blend for standing rigging:
 
          1/2 teaspoon of Cocoa Brown
          3/4 teaspoon of Dark Brown
          3/4 teaspoon of Black
These are added to 16 ounces of hot water and mixed until dissolved.
 
 
The Kodak 'Photo-Flo acts as a wetting agent.  It comes in a 16oz. bottle. The directions call for 1 part of 'Photo-Flo' in 200 parts of warm water, I added half a capful to 16oz.of water, works just fine.  I put a 20ft. hank of line in the 'Photo-Flo' solution and let it sink to the bottom for 5 min.  Remove it, and while still dripping wet place it in the dye blend.  It only takes about twenty for the dye to work.  Remove it a place on paper toweling to drain and dry,  which I leave over night.
 
 
In a few days when I've done more rope making and testing I'll post some photos.
 
Hope this Helps
 
Bob W
.

This is still my last job. I finished it a few days ago. 
Here's a French lion   turned out.





If interested, and in that sense, I can show pictures during operation.
 

covered with oil:


 
after drying oil tinting:




 
Everything. And so it did:


 
Sincerely, Alexander
 
 
 
 
 
 

manufacturing slot:




 
Thread bottom feet:





 
 

Show how everything was done gradually 
Draft Thread


moving eventually worked out the details. First rough and about




moving eventually worked out the details. First rough and about later in more detail. Neponravilis folds of the dress , so was their remodel

Thanks once more for your kind comments ...
 
***
 
The edges of the vitrine are to be covered by L-shaped brass profiles. These are cut to length a bit longer than needed and then the mitre is ground on. In order not to let the sanding disc work too much, I pre-cut the mitre rough with a cutter. My first investment into machinery in the mid-1980s was the purchase of a PROXXON pillar drill. It served me well ever since, not only as a drilling machine, but also as disc sander and (occasionally) as a wood lathe. At that time a longer pillar, a tool rest, a sanding disc/face-plate and a revolving centre were available as extras. The tool rest has a mitre guide. Together with a grind stone, I also used it to shape and sharpen lathe tools.
With a sanding disc one can grind the mitres very precisely.
 

Grinding of the mitres into the brass L-profiles
 
For a good fit, a certain sequence of fitting the brass profiles is advisable. First the parts for the top are roughly cut to length and the mitres ground on at both ends. Then two profiles are mated in one corner and, say, part 1 taped down with Sellotape. Part 2 and 3 are mated at the next corner and part 3 taped down. Next part 2 can be ground to an exact fit between part 1 and 3. One continues with mating part 3 and 4 in the next corner, and so forth. The brass profiles at the bottom, that sit on the wood, are fitted in the same way.
 

Prepared brass profiles
 
The brass is ground finely, polished with steelwool (0000), and then degreased with white spirit. The profiles are now glued on one by one. For this I use a clear general purpose glue (German brand: UHU Alleskleber). Until the glue is set, the profiles are taped down again.
 

Mitred corner at the top of vitrine
 
The four uprights are the last parts to go on. They are roughly cut to length and the mitres are ground on at one side. The exact fitting is done at the square end. Here we only need to fit one edge. When grinding on the mitres, one can also compensate slight unevenness of the other mitres and thus achieve a perfect fit.
 

View from below showing how the parts fit together
 

View onto the wooden plinth and brass edging
 

View onto the vitrine
 
This was the first vitrine I constructed from Plexiglas, rather than silicate glass. As noted before, Plexiglas as a number of advantages and disadvantages compared to mineral glass. An advantage certainly is its shock resistance and that it can be worked easily at home. A big disadvantage is its low scratch resitance and one has to take extra care during construction. Thus a working over of the brass profiles once glued on is rather tricky.
Plexiglas can be glued, or rather chemically welded, almost invisibly. However, the recommende glue (Acrifix 90) has a rather short open time, which makes adjusting the parts with the necessary precision quite tricky. Also the dosage of the glue was difficult. Any sequeezed-out glue is impossible to remove without damage to the Plexiglas panels.
If I compare the most recent job, with the vitrines I built in the past from mineral glass, I am not as happy with my result. Perhaps I will return to mineral glass in the future.
 

Vitrine and model united provisionally
 
wefalck

Hello all,
 
a belated happy new year to all. Sorry for the long absence, but am still doing house jobs, they seem to be never ending. hope to have averything clear by next month, as I really miss my Scharnhorst, and the conversations with you guys.
 
see you all very soon.

Thanks Mark. It does make one stop and think till you been on a air craft carrier which had a crew of 7000. Try feeding that many guys. That is untill you find out that they had three kitchens that usually work 24/7. Had to work in one for two weeks when I was on board the Midway. Lots of fun for sure.
 
Hi Larry.Thank you sir and am glad that my log is a help to you.  I was going to ask Larry but have you started a build log and would love to see your Alfred on here. Now if I understand your question your asking about the grating/deck planking on the orlop deck around the pump well? As far as grating on this deck am not sure that other then in the middle were hatches would of been may of been the only place for grating, which probably been flushed with the planking. Most of the plank's would of been short and fitted in to rabbets on the forward and aft edges of the top of the beams, which could be removed in order to get at the supplies in the hold. If I was going to plank it I would have just cut short planks to fit  between the beams. They did also fit carlings and ledges between the orlop beams to help strengthen the short planks between the beams but I didn't install them also. You may of miss this detail on the orlop deck so have included a photo showing the rabbet. Peter Goodwin in his book Sailing Man of War, show's on page 59 fig 2/8 how the planks would of looked accept I do believe they would have been flush with the beams. Keeps one from stubbing a toe that's for sure. Hope this is of some help Larry. If it doesn't answer you question let me know and we will come up with the right answer.
Gary 

Drift Rails
 
The Drift Rails are the uppermost ones. I used dark Swiss Pear as they are a continuation of the Planksheers in the Waist :
 

 

 

 
They cut in over the Catheads :
 

 
  Danny

Dear friends,

thank you very much for your compliments and kind words, I appreciate them a lot.

Today I took a video to show you the tutorial, how I make the belaying pins. All is handmade, cause I have not any special tools.
The pins are solid enough, even if they are made of two parts.  
 

 
 
And what's new on RC.....
I have finished spiral staircase - it is made of paper and covered with foils to imitate wooden look.
 







 
Kind regards
Doris

A chart room.... lets's see. look now, Piet's getting carried away already
 
First the chimney, I was looking through my books because these came in al sorts and shapes
 

 
But fortunately TFFM hinted me to also check my NMM plans and guess what the chimney was drawn in so getting the shape right was easy peasy. (reminder look more on the NMM plans there is more on it than I had thought)
 
The pyramid shape was diver soldered from some scrap pieces, the funnel turned and tapered on the lathe. 
 

 
The floor was added in front of the stove. And here it is ready to be lit this was really a fun challenge to do, thank you Druxey for inspiring me to give it a try.
 

 

 
Remco

Hi friends,
cannons for assembly on the Gun-Deck prepared.
Karl
 
 
 
T e i l  4 1

I agree Henry, the foremost shrouds were served and the rest simply tarred with Stoholm Tar or the like according to several sources.   The rules which drives the 'guidance' as stated by Steel, Lees, Marquardt etc, which is what Marc was asking about, state clearly that it was only the leading shroud leg of each leading (foremost) shroud pair per mast where chafe was likely.  That said, anywhere where chafe was likely from other rigging, sails etc would also have been further protected in some manner, usually rope serving or, as seen in some merchant and smaller vessels, using baggeywrinkles. 
 
cheers
 
Pat

I agree Henry, the foremost shrouds were served and the rest simply tarred with Stoholm Tar or the like according to several sources.   The rules which drives the 'guidance' as stated by Steel, Lees, Marquardt etc, which is what Marc was asking about, state clearly that it was only the leading shroud leg of each leading (foremost) shroud pair per mast where chafe was likely.  That said, anywhere where chafe was likely from other rigging, sails etc would also have been further protected in some manner, usually rope serving or, as seen in some merchant and smaller vessels, using baggeywrinkles. 
 
cheers
 
Pat

Marc, also try Marquardt's Eighteenth Century Rigs and Rigging as he also includes European detail in addition to Steel's tables.  With Steel the tables are difficult but I am starting to get my head around them.  From what I have determined via Steel and  Lee's the Masting and Rigging of English Ships... for English ships at least, the leading leg of every set of shrouds (i.e most forward of each of the Fore, Main and Mizzen) were served all the way down and the after leg of these, and all other shroud pairs were served  about 8 feet, or 1/4 of the length. where the fit around the mast.
 
I hope this helps?
 
cheers
 
Pat

Hi Mark, I didn't place a like as that is news one cannot like   Big decision mate, but probably for the better; a great learning experience none-the-less.  Have you thought of using this as the base for a wreck diorama or similar where trennel counting isn't so important?  Hate to sdee all that effort totally wasted.
 
cheers
Pat

Just $.02 from someone who has screwed up more than one plank.  Take it slow, measure several times before cutting.  Use slow setting glue and lots of clamps rather than instant glues.  This is so when (not if) you find out at the last moment that your plank isn't fitting right you can remove it without breaking anything.

The update you're having when you're not having an update!
 
No photos at the moment, but just a quick not to let you know that the4 'Pritt' is still creeping ahead.
 
I'm still working on drawing the frames and making frame blanks, but hopefully next time I'll have the framing jig made up and something a bit more progressive to report on!
 
John