BANYAN

As Mark says, nice to see the shipyard back at work again Gaetan.  Very clean work.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Thanks for looking in and the comments  Carl, Mark and Patric - much appreciated.  Now to attack the circular skylights, that is going to be a bit of a challenge but only 4 to make 😨 - .
 
cheers
 
Pat

Another small update folks.   This shows some of the completed parts in-situ but the 'pelorus' is only dry fitted.  I have yet to add the connection point (hydrant) for the 7" fire pump between the two suction plate assemblies, and a few sounding pipes.  There is also a brass (single) rail to go around this area.
 
Dave, the laser cut came up well; many thanks to you and your mate for organising this for me.  The rod grills are made from PE verticals and .6mm brass wire/rod which I soldered at the ends (each rod) and spot soldered two rods only for the inner ones.  I have rebated a length of 0.5mm brass rod into the centreline piece of the skylight to represent a 'piano style' hinge with the edges screwed off against the sides of the panels in real life.
 
Unfortunately the laser cut ply came up a little darker than the rest of the wood (Kauri) but I think I can live with it   I have also fitted the two 'L' handles for the downton pumps against the rear end of the skylight.  These were only fitted when required.  The dado along the bottom is 8" (actual) which corresponds with the dado on the circular skylights (4 of, still to be made) which will be fitted two abreast between the pelorus and companion, and the other two abreast aft of the companion.



cheers
 
Pat

Another small update folks.   This shows some of the completed parts in-situ but the 'pelorus' is only dry fitted.  I have yet to add the connection point (hydrant) for the 7" fire pump between the two suction plate assemblies, and a few sounding pipes.  There is also a brass (single) rail to go around this area.
 
Dave, the laser cut came up well; many thanks to you and your mate for organising this for me.  The rod grills are made from PE verticals and .6mm brass wire/rod which I soldered at the ends (each rod) and spot soldered two rods only for the inner ones.  I have rebated a length of 0.5mm brass rod into the centreline piece of the skylight to represent a 'piano style' hinge with the edges screwed off against the sides of the panels in real life.
 
Unfortunately the laser cut ply came up a little darker than the rest of the wood (Kauri) but I think I can live with it   I have also fitted the two 'L' handles for the downton pumps against the rear end of the skylight.  These were only fitted when required.  The dado along the bottom is 8" (actual) which corresponds with the dado on the circular skylights (4 of, still to be made) which will be fitted two abreast between the pelorus and companion, and the other two abreast aft of the companion.



cheers
 
Pat

cheers mate; appreciate your compliment.
 
cheers
 
Pat

That's looking very good Vossiewulf - very crisp work.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Hi Pat,
Deck fit-out looking seriously good man.
 

Getting ready for paint finally, using kneaded rubber eraser for my holder. It's much stiffer that plastic or polymer clay, and leaves no residue on your glue sticks or fingers.

I improved the pump parts, especially the handles that were too heavy, they've been thinned out and made a bit longer. Also drilled out the top pieces to take the circular bushing that goes around the main pump rod..bar... whatever.

I also added this boomsprit reinforcement that's on trial, this part of the rig has always looked flimsy to me and if I were the captain I'd like a more positive groove for the boom to sit in.

After painting all the red and black. Using some annoying polymer clay because I couldn't find another kneaded rubber eraser, need to order more.

Finally able to start gluing up sub-assemblies. The non-painted wood parts got a coat of Minwax golden oak.

Boomsprit support and anchor windlass in place, with pawl engaged.

Grates, bitts, windlass, and companion installed, pumps being assembled.

Was very careful to ensure perfectly straight alignment for the boomsprit.

 
 
 
 

More of your excellent work Ed; that rigging looks really good - love the colour of your running rigging.  
 
cheers
 
Pat

Hi Ilhan,
 
As John has suggested, some steering control rods were above deck.  The attached photo shows control chains but the principle is the same.   I have seen, but do not have a photo, where these chains ran inside an inverted 'U' style protective cover bolted to the deck (not flush) also.
 
I hope this helps?
 

 
cheers
 
Pat

Another small update folks.   This shows some of the completed parts in-situ but the 'pelorus' is only dry fitted.  I have yet to add the connection point (hydrant) for the 7" fire pump between the two suction plate assemblies, and a few sounding pipes.  There is also a brass (single) rail to go around this area.
 
Dave, the laser cut came up well; many thanks to you and your mate for organising this for me.  The rod grills are made from PE verticals and .6mm brass wire/rod which I soldered at the ends (each rod) and spot soldered two rods only for the inner ones.  I have rebated a length of 0.5mm brass rod into the centreline piece of the skylight to represent a 'piano style' hinge with the edges screwed off against the sides of the panels in real life.
 
Unfortunately the laser cut ply came up a little darker than the rest of the wood (Kauri) but I think I can live with it   I have also fitted the two 'L' handles for the downton pumps against the rear end of the skylight.  These were only fitted when required.  The dado along the bottom is 8" (actual) which corresponds with the dado on the circular skylights (4 of, still to be made) which will be fitted two abreast between the pelorus and companion, and the other two abreast aft of the companion.



cheers
 
Pat

Another small update folks.   This shows some of the completed parts in-situ but the 'pelorus' is only dry fitted.  I have yet to add the connection point (hydrant) for the 7" fire pump between the two suction plate assemblies, and a few sounding pipes.  There is also a brass (single) rail to go around this area.
 
Dave, the laser cut came up well; many thanks to you and your mate for organising this for me.  The rod grills are made from PE verticals and .6mm brass wire/rod which I soldered at the ends (each rod) and spot soldered two rods only for the inner ones.  I have rebated a length of 0.5mm brass rod into the centreline piece of the skylight to represent a 'piano style' hinge with the edges screwed off against the sides of the panels in real life.
 
Unfortunately the laser cut ply came up a little darker than the rest of the wood (Kauri) but I think I can live with it   I have also fitted the two 'L' handles for the downton pumps against the rear end of the skylight.  These were only fitted when required.  The dado along the bottom is 8" (actual) which corresponds with the dado on the circular skylights (4 of, still to be made) which will be fitted two abreast between the pelorus and companion, and the other two abreast aft of the companion.



cheers
 
Pat

That looks very good Rob, the level of detail at the scale you are building is excellent.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Thanks for looking in and the comments  Carl, Mark and Patric - much appreciated.  Now to attack the circular skylights, that is going to be a bit of a challenge but only 4 to make 😨 - .
 
cheers
 
Pat

Thanks for looking in and the comments  Carl, Mark and Patric - much appreciated.  Now to attack the circular skylights, that is going to be a bit of a challenge but only 4 to make 😨 - .
 
cheers
 
Pat

2019, the beginning of the construction inside the model ship.
 
First part,   planks to support the deck beams, very easy to position; the height in reference with the gun port openings  is the same everywhere.
Followed by 7 inner  frames. 
Still other parts to do before to fix everything.

Hi Pat
 
Lovely, finely and beautifully excecuted details.  Very crisp, indeed!
 
Cheers
 
Patrick

I agree with Dowmer..the natural sag to the lines is (IHV) part of the authenticity of a model.  Actual running lines sag under gravity on real vessels...why not on models.  If we are so attentive to get every aspect of our models correct to the tiniest detail...why not the natural sag of the lines.
 
Great work Ed..nice to see you at it again...nearly done too......
 
Rob

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 316 – Rigging Continued
 
It has been more than a month since the last post, but work has been progressing.  Most of it is not too photo-worthy, however.  How many pictures of ratlines would be of interest?  The last picture in the last post showed the upper yards for the main and mizzen masts with their ironwork completed.  In the first picture below, some of these are shown with footropes added. 
 

 
The two on the left are the main royal and skysail yards.  The three on the right are the mizzen lower topsail, topgallant and royal.  The mizzen upper topsail seems to be AWOL someplace.  I have still not made the broken mizzen sky yard.   In the next picture the mizzen lower topsail is having a test fit on the mast.
 
 
In this picture the pivot arm of the mizzen lower yard truss has just been replaced – note the bright copper retaining ring - after the pin through the yoke broke while I was rattling the topmast shrouds.  The broken copper wire pin was replaced with stronger brass.  This was some tricky work to do in place. 
 
Not shown above is the main topgallant yard, which has now been erected and shown in the next picture.
 
 
The royal sheets that pass through the iron sheet block under the center of this have been run and belayed below.  The topgallant clew lines have been coupled to the sheet chains and also belayed.  These four lines serve to pull the yard downward.  However, I notice in this picture that those lines have relaxed tension on the port upper topsail standing lift, so some adjustment will be needed to straighten that out.  This is a normal part of the rigging process and is time consuming.
 
The last two pictures illustrate the problem of humidity changes discussed in some earlier posts.  The first picture shows the port main sail bowline as it has gone slack since the weather has turned cold – causing a drop in humidity.
 
 
These were installed in the early, warmer, more humid fall.  The next picture, without moving the camera, was taken less than one minute after wetting the line with clear water. 
 
 
The slack is completely gone.  The 3" line is long staple, crochet cotton, size 40.  It will sag again when dry.  This occurs mainly on long lines, cotton and linen.  I am testing treating the lines with some dilute polymer emulsion, either PVA or acrylic, to provide some moisture resistance and minimize this effect.  Stay tuned.
 
 
Ed

Nice run down Ed.  Thanks for the update post.  Perfect with the morning coffee.
 
On your bowline sag with humidity, this might be heresy but I like the catenary sag.  It looks more realistic than everything music string tight. 
 
 

While building the sail I opted to simulate the addition of repaired panels on the sails...to give some realistic perspective.
 
Still have lots of control lines to run along with the belaying of buntlines and sheets..not to mention the downhauls.
 
Once sail down and the main course left on the main mast..
 
Rob

Next, I rigged blocks for lifts and sheets for the lower topsail.

Spent some time today wrapping up some belaying of roya/topsail control lines before I begin to work on the lower topsail.

Hi Pat, Slowly getting there.
 
Shipyard Update:
I moved onto the Anchor Buoys.
First up what it should look like and what to make it/them(2 off) from.
Below pic from the AoTS.

I turned up a 13mm long inner "cork" buoy, from a off-cut of dowel, then lightly stained it.

Made hoops from 0.45mm dia rope(at 1:60 = 27mm dia full size) for top and bottom(to go tightly round the buoy, just on either side of its widest part).
Slings from 4 pieces of rope cut and an eye spliced into the middle.   
  
Left Pic:  With some clips and hooks, I managed to create a stable means to attach the sling to the top and tuck under the hoop.
Right Pic:  Then invert and same as above.
  
First attempt: finished Anchor Buoy. In hindsight, maybe should of used a rope 1 size smaller.

 
Onto making the 2nd one next.
 
 

I just found this photo of a German ship deploying an anti torpedo net. Great reference shot for how the rigging works.