BANYAN

I can personally attest to the quality of Remco's work, he even let me hold the ship in my hands - it's heavy too.
Yeah, Gwen and I with daughter Marianne and grandson Troy came to visit a few years ago. Wonderful memories.
 
Cheers,

Larger move, Sam, across town.  
 
The DeathStar is just about operational just needs some tweaking of settings and final leveling.  I'm going to let is sit overnight so everything settles in because the floor is carpet.
 
 

At least things won't bounce much when they hit the floor.
 
Michael

But wait! There’s more! 
 
The upper per bridge area has a lot of detail and it took a while to get my head around what was required. 
 
I cut cut off all the binoculars and range finder pedestals and replaced them all with North Star  as the Pontos stuff really made no sense and the instructions just gave part numbers. 
 
The high altitude range finders were all replaced with North Star as well, and I added 6 signal lamps. 
 
I just have to add the coat the coat of arms then park it until it’s stuck onto the ship and it will get the final rigging 

Thanks all, signal Halyards done, I finally got smart and placed proper belaying points being bent railings 

Multiple tiny bits finally starting to come togeather. 44inch spotlights, 21 inch signal mamas (Northstar), replacements for the Pom Poms and single 20mms, ladders.....bottom half almost done, need to rig the signal ropes. 
 
A source of frustration is Pontos has designed the PE for the Prince of Wales not the KGV, which just throws things out a tad, and the extras are on the borderline of my level of competence because they are so small. One of Pontos phots shows a DF sticking out the front of the bridge but it’s not on the plans or the frets, so it’s not going to be there. 

Back in February 2014 I posted this in my "schooner" build, found it yesterday and thought it might be worth sharing.
 
To make the bands I drilled out the centre of the brass stock on the lathe to fit the mast, then turned it down until I had approx. 1mm wall thickness (this was set by the available drill sizes I had for the next step) then parted the bands off.
 
Then in the lathe drill a centre hole in the stock the same size as the outside diameter of the collars just made and turn down the exterior to just above the finished dimension of the band with tabs, the length of this machining needs to be longer than the length of the band, this will soon become clear.
 
First pic shows a failed first attempt on the left and the new bands turned and parted off.
 
Second pic shows the second turning removed from the lathe and the tabs revealed by removing the excess brass, you could make it a single tab by only soldering one, you can make it a triple or a quad as I have.
 
Third pic shows the band fitted into the tabs, you'll note there are gaps between the band and the stock, this is so you don't lose all your heat into the stock while trying to solder it. The beautiful thing here is that the contact surfaces on the tabs are perfectly curved to match the band
 
Fourth pic shows soldering the tabs, now guys, SOLDERING IS NOT THE DEMON EVERYONE SEEMS TO THINK IT IS! 
CLEAN is the secret, these parts are fresh off the lathe, no coolant was used in machining them and I have handled them very sparingly using long nose pliers to place the band in the tabs. I only use 60/40 resin cored solder and it works beautifully. The BIG thing is NEVER touch the flame and solder to the job at the same time! Heat from one side of the tab knowing that the hottest part of the flame is the tip of the blue centre flame, just hold that on the job for a little while then remove it then touch the solder to the opposite side of the tab, if it doesn't melt remove it and heat a bit more. keep going until you get the solder melting then remove the solder wire and reapply heat to the opposite side. This will draw the solder through the joint and you'll see it happen. Continue around all the tabs one at a time. Once they are all soldered simply heat the whole thing up and using a paint brush quickly brush away the excess solder remembering it is molten metal and will spatter and burn.
 
Fifth pic, soldered
 
Sixth pic, cut off and fitted to the jib boom, more filing to be done but you get the idea.
 






 

Why does soldering strike fear into men?
It's dead simple, I have soldered everything from a single wire on a small switch to a 120mmsq cable in a motor connection.
 
For what we are doing I only ever use resin cored solder, 60/40 or slightly stronger higher melt point 40/60.
The process is so simple:-
1: CLEAN the job, I find a light sand with dry wet&dry 600 grit does a nice job, if it's been oily wash it with alcohol first
2: NEVER touch a flame to the job while touching the solder to it. The flame burns the resin and the job is then dirty, no hope at all of getting it to work
3: Once you have some solder on the job heat from the opposite side of the join as this keeps the flame off the solder and resin residue AND solder flows to heat.
 
I made the brass bullbar for the model pictured using this method and 60/40 resin cored solder, the model weighs 3.5Kg and can be picked up by the bullbar 

Nice work and a great idea on the slits Dave.
 
Another thing that may help with maintaining spacing of the shrouds is to do the major ratlines (that go all the way across first, then fill in between.  I think I did the bottom then the middle and then the top majors, then the intermediates.  That helped me keep the spacing while I did the minors.  If your current jig resolves the spacing issue ignore this ramble
 
cheers
 
Pat

Great attitude mate.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Ah, another form of a 'prayer wheel' (bent over using them as in saying prayers) - Interesting concept but all overtaken with calculators and the like these days

Great to see another update Ed; have been missing this wonderful example of model engineering   
 
Is your rule of thumb about seizings based on a real life rule you found?  It does make a lot of sense.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Hi folks, another update; not much but some progress.  I am being slowed b research at the moment.
 
The steering platform is now complete and fitted over an inverted 'A' Frame  - the rapson slide (not shown) slides across under the platform between the legs of the frame at the position of the cable drum.  

  
The steering compass cabinet is complete but just dry fitted.  The compass cover (pewter aftermarket part cut from its pedestal) is also only dry fitted.  If we use this it will be painted brass.  We are trying to make this by 'spinning' on a lathe to get the base form.
 
The hammock platform around the funnel has now been completed.  This is only 11mm high to give some idea of size so this is a 'close-up' which shows all the 'detail' not visible to the naked eye   As best as I can determine, there was only an outer rail.  the hammocks are stacked vertically and I assumed some are lashed to the rails for stability?  An inner ring would not work due to space and access issues.   When the original photo is zoomed right in, the stanchions and 4 rails are very clear.  I have used black cotton in-lieu of wire for the rails as, at this scale it was impossible to keep the shape of the 0.4mm wire without deformation as I bent it around and through the stanchion holes.  The stanchions are after-market.
      
The companion has also been fitted in place.
 
I have also made a steam whistle (a little early for a steam horn which did not appear for another decade or so (as best I can determine).  This was made from a tube with a rounded solid upper plug, and a bit of rod rounded and shaped to accept the actuator handle at one end - this was drilled through to accept the whistle and is intended to represent the steam cock valve.  The spigot at the base is a locating pin. The photo of the whistle itself shows the item before cleaning and some polishing - this will be left brass.  The ruler in the photo is in mm.
 

cheers
 
Pat
 

Love them boats, some really nice detail with that PE added.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Hi folks, another update; not much but some progress.  I am being slowed b research at the moment.
 
The steering platform is now complete and fitted over an inverted 'A' Frame  - the rapson slide (not shown) slides across under the platform between the legs of the frame at the position of the cable drum.  

  
The steering compass cabinet is complete but just dry fitted.  The compass cover (pewter aftermarket part cut from its pedestal) is also only dry fitted.  If we use this it will be painted brass.  We are trying to make this by 'spinning' on a lathe to get the base form.
 
The hammock platform around the funnel has now been completed.  This is only 11mm high to give some idea of size so this is a 'close-up' which shows all the 'detail' not visible to the naked eye   As best as I can determine, there was only an outer rail.  the hammocks are stacked vertically and I assumed some are lashed to the rails for stability?  An inner ring would not work due to space and access issues.   When the original photo is zoomed right in, the stanchions and 4 rails are very clear.  I have used black cotton in-lieu of wire for the rails as, at this scale it was impossible to keep the shape of the 0.4mm wire without deformation as I bent it around and through the stanchion holes.  The stanchions are after-market.
      
The companion has also been fitted in place.
 
I have also made a steam whistle (a little early for a steam horn which did not appear for another decade or so (as best I can determine).  This was made from a tube with a rounded solid upper plug, and a bit of rod rounded and shaped to accept the actuator handle at one end - this was drilled through to accept the whistle and is intended to represent the steam cock valve.  The spigot at the base is a locating pin. The photo of the whistle itself shows the item before cleaning and some polishing - this will be left brass.  The ruler in the photo is in mm.
 

cheers
 
Pat
 

Another small update.  After retrying the decals I had two problem; first the colour of the decals just do not show up against the brown (a known issue apparently but I thought I would try), and after trying that I found the wheel had 'roughened' again.  I put the latter issue down to using the water on acrylic paint/gloss when trying to apply the decals.  The photo show the wheel having been redone - please remember the rim is only 1mm wide and 12mm in diameter (OD).
 

 
I have decided that even PE will be difficult at this scale (to etch that is) so we have decided to leave this small detail off.  i think there is enough detail to make the steering arrangement look OK?  Yep - I know - a real 'cop out'.  If I get time I may revisit this when I do the PE for the brass work on the skylights.
 
The following photos show the companing and steering position dry fitted.  In hindsight, I think we opted for a slightly too large rear bench but it will have flag lockers fitted on top of it either side of the wheel and we needed sufficient width to allow for that.  The red 'pull' cord is for igniting the powder via the adapted gunlock on the Common Service Lifebuoy on the transom - this then provided the smoke and/or the flare (night) in the upper pan of the lifebuoy.  nThe black handle is a 'twist to release' for the lifebuoy.  In later times, these two controls were combined.
 
  

 
One remaining issue is to determine what the most probable configuration for the mizzen boom crutch.  The boom extends beyond the transom, and in the photograph of the crew on the quarterdeck, it shows the boom, when in its stowed position, lies to 'port' of the ensign staff.  Unfortunately, as can be seen from the earlier photo of the wheel, it is impossible to make out the configuration of the crutch support.  At the moment I am tempted to have it secured to the transom using the roughtree timber immediately to the left of the centreline and using the back edge of the bench as one of the vertical supports (a hole drilled in the bench).  What I cannot decide for this configuration, is whether any supporting struts would have been required or simply a supporting upper bracket near the top of the roughtree timber.  The next outboard roughtree timber (with the notch in the rail) is for one of the rear davit arms.
 
An alternative is have the crutch with tripod style support configuration, free standing in front of the bench but I think that would be in the way of the helm (not that the crutch would be there when the wheel was manned).  The issue with the first configuration is that the crutch would be in the way of working the boat; but, again the boom, and therefore the crutch, would have had to be moved out of the way before working the boat anyway.
 
Opinions and suggestions eagerly sought
 
cheers
 
Pat

Hi Druxey and many thanks for looking in and your suggestion.  Unfortunately, as shown in my less than adequate drawing below, the wheel did not have a brass ring on the rim, but rather a series of plates as evidenced in the photo (this is a highly zoomed extract of a photo of some of the Officers and Crew on the Quarterdeck taken in 1868).  The drawing shows the graphic I have used for my decals also.
 
I will remember that technique as for my Endeavour I used a twin blade cutter (knife) in a compass to cut some thin brass (shim) which proved problematic.
 
To explain the shape of the standard I have adopted, I based the overall shape on the requirement to have a carving of the coat of arms carved into it.  This is the most probable shape that serves and is similar to the standard as shown in a contemporary model of a wheel and standard held by the NMM.  Unfortunately the standard cannot be made out in the photo.
 
I have bit the bullet so to speak and removed the old paint from the wheel and repainted it so that I have a new flat surface.  I will have one more go at the decas before giving up on them.
 
cheers
 
Pat
 


 

Hi folks, another update; not much but some progress.  I am being slowed b research at the moment.
 
The steering platform is now complete and fitted over an inverted 'A' Frame  - the rapson slide (not shown) slides across under the platform between the legs of the frame at the position of the cable drum.  

  
The steering compass cabinet is complete but just dry fitted.  The compass cover (pewter aftermarket part cut from its pedestal) is also only dry fitted.  If we use this it will be painted brass.  We are trying to make this by 'spinning' on a lathe to get the base form.
 
The hammock platform around the funnel has now been completed.  This is only 11mm high to give some idea of size so this is a 'close-up' which shows all the 'detail' not visible to the naked eye   As best as I can determine, there was only an outer rail.  the hammocks are stacked vertically and I assumed some are lashed to the rails for stability?  An inner ring would not work due to space and access issues.   When the original photo is zoomed right in, the stanchions and 4 rails are very clear.  I have used black cotton in-lieu of wire for the rails as, at this scale it was impossible to keep the shape of the 0.4mm wire without deformation as I bent it around and through the stanchion holes.  The stanchions are after-market.
      
The companion has also been fitted in place.
 
I have also made a steam whistle (a little early for a steam horn which did not appear for another decade or so (as best I can determine).  This was made from a tube with a rounded solid upper plug, and a bit of rod rounded and shaped to accept the actuator handle at one end - this was drilled through to accept the whistle and is intended to represent the steam cock valve.  The spigot at the base is a locating pin. The photo of the whistle itself shows the item before cleaning and some polishing - this will be left brass.  The ruler in the photo is in mm.
 

cheers
 
Pat
 

Looks very good Michael; great idea to prototype in card.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Looking forward to these updates
 
cheers
 
Pat

Thanks for all the likes and fine comments. A bit more work today first order was to make a couple of left and right Dorade vent forms first a 3/4 diameter end mill then into the side with a 5/16 these were then cut to create the right and left sides.
 

 
Switching gears to the companionway the side panels needed to join with the front and rear cross panels, for this i chose dovetails the same as the skylight.
The initial cuts for the pins were done with the small back saw and the jewelers saw.
 

 
Next they were clamped in the vice with some tool steel guides
 

 
and cleaned up with a few files.
 

 
Then the pins were transferred to the sides and the dovetails marked and cut with the jewelers saw and cleaned up with the files. the front panel required the most dovetails. you can see the primary vent forms in the background I worked on the starboard form first using some .008" brass and also made a domed plug from maple to assist with forming the main bowl section.
 
 
 
Here is a shot of the companionway dry assembled with a scrap panel to see how the new vent looks.
 

 
It is much more durable in the thicker brass, but I think I need to work the form a bit more, the tube section down to the box will need to be opened up a bit to form a better flow it looks a bit restricted. I will also keep it polished.
 
Michael
 
 

Ciao e grazie a tutti
Altre foto....le coste aumentano.
Hello and thanks to everyone
More photos
 







Un Saluto

Hi all,   last two boats completed today,  dry fitted on the boat deck just to see how they look together.
 
OC.
 

I hate to be a wet blanket and Facebook has a place but it is a gold mine for those wishing to do ill to others.
I started an Investigative company after retiring from law enforcement focusing on comp, disability, and medicaid fraud.
One of our best tools for initial background information is Facebook. People tell on themselves without realizing it.
 
My warning is you open up your world to the bad guys, where you live, children, schools they go to, where you work pictures of family, house, automobiles. You also give access to all your friends posted on your pages. You post when you go on vacation and how long you will be gone. I could go on with a long laundry list.
 
Facebook has a place but be well aware of what to post and what not to post.👿 the devil he be out there.
 

Love them boats, some really nice detail with that PE added.
 
cheers
 
Pat