BANYAN

That's a very good finish Greg, just the right amount of shading and highlight to make out the the armour belt panels.  From this angle at least, the shadow for the various downpipes etc are just right also.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Reminds me of my daughter when she about 5.  I walked into the kitchen where she was holding a glass of water.  She promptly let go and the glass and water was all over.  I said " Annie, why did you do that?" She responded that it wasn't her fault "it was gravity.........it's everywhere".  True story.
 
Best,
John

Ships Boats Update
Pinnace
It has been slow going working on this little boat.
A couple of pictures of where the shipyard is at today.
Much more to go, however will finish all 4 small boats rudders, paintwork, masts etc. together.

 
 

 
 
At this stage I am happy to move onto the Skiff, work on the fit-out, bring it up to the same stage as the Pinnace and Longboat.
 
 
Dave R

Thanks for all the likes, and comments
 
 
Thanks OC. I'll put some rafts underneath to keep it afloat
 
 
Thanks Pat, I'm not yet halfway through my PE stack ... I need to keep my focus, as some parts can't be fixed before they are painted, because painting the part afterwards will be (partly) impossible

Howdy Carl,
I salute your patience and your eyesight!  That is going to be quite impressive - heck, it already is!  Outstanding!  (Note to self - avoid photo-etch!!)
Ciao for now
Rob

Hey Karl. Yes, there are eyebolts in the kit.... too big.... too gold colored. The advantage is that the twisted portion in my own provides additional mechanical and glue grip. 
Yes... the wheels were included in kit.

The base colour is done! I removed the masking tape and have a few chips on the lower hull, but I intend to make them rust spots anyway. I have added the hull depth markers and the ships name and crest on the bow.
 
Next will be to paint the scuppers then start the weathering. I'm not sure if I'm happy with the paintwork yet on the upper hull, but I'm expecting the weathering and washes to bring it to life.

you've really got a grip of this airbrushing lark now Greg, looks very good.
cheers
Pat

Mark, what about taking a bit off the ends of a few of the after runs (the amount equal to a beam separation distance).  If done at random, would this not generate the staggered butt pattern?  I am assuming the planks are only dry fitted though?
 
cheers
 
Pat

Mark, what about taking a bit off the ends of a few of the after runs (the amount equal to a beam separation distance).  If done at random, would this not generate the staggered butt pattern?  I am assuming the planks are only dry fitted though?
 
cheers
 
Pat

GemmaJF, i would be concerned with foam as after a while it starts to break down.  I used balsa, which I sealed with a diluted PVA - would this cut with the CNC hot wire cutter noting its composition?  Then again, I do not know the longevity of balsa either
 
It might also be better to move this as a separate line of discussion rather than clog-up Mark's build log if there is much discussion on it?
 
cheers
 
Pat

Nice production line Michael   Your approach to all this is enlightening; I am following with great interest.
 
cheers
 
Pat

I have not worked with boxwood much Vossie, but is it possible that it has natural oils and that this concentrates in some places more than others?  
As to the counter I think black would contrast quite well with the near white of holly and make the holly really pop - no harm in painting a bit of black on some off cut and use it as a visual reference/comparison?
cheers
Pat

Looks good Carl, an impressive amount of PE detail which will give the model a very detailed finish.
 
cheers
 
Pat

...and slowly she emerges That is really looking like the form of yet another very nice set of lines Russ
 
cheers
 
Pat

That's great progress Russ with a nice transition for the rabbet.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Whilst waiting for some supplies to arrive, I got to work on the pilot house. The house sits on a raised base and that was the first order of business.
 
Here is how I made the base. I made it this way to be able to more easily and in the round up of the bulkhead frame tops into the bottom of the base.
 
Russ 

Thanks for the pics, and it looks very good BTW
 
The only thing is that even looking carefully at your pics I can't see where the difference is. Please look at my pics, maybe you will have better luck. For now I guess I'm going to cut the second rabbets until we figure out what is going on here.
 
And for what it's worth, I'm just using my cell camera even though I have a fancy Olympus, and it's not even particularly new, it's a Samsung S4 since none of the newer ones do anything I need much better. Except for the new Google phone, I read a review on a camera site that said its camera was superior even to the latest Apple cameras, very near full DSLR quality. So I was thinking about getting one.
 
I do know that my cell cam only works well with very bright light, you should be able to tell my task light is never very far out of frame just above the model when shooting. In normal light autofocus is spotty and the pics are noisy, but I can fix the noise pretty easily with a fancy noise-reduction add-on for Photoshop that I have. All I do in Photoshop with these though is crop and save as a lower-quality jpg to retain the high resolution but get under the 2mb barrier.
 
But I am also a fully-qualified graphics guy who long ago worked in the games industry as an artist, I've done 100% of the graphics for my Line of Battle game. So if you need pics fixed I can fix 'em
 

 
 
 

Looks good Carl, an impressive amount of PE detail which will give the model a very detailed finish.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Some belated thanks, gentlemen !
 
********************************************
 
I could not refrain from some more toolmaking. I will probably add various small attachments for particular purposes, as I am using the machine. Here is a small clamping table for flat objects.
 

 
 
It was milled from a piece of flat steel and the arbor for the 5 mm collet was hard-soldered in. The area underneath the slots is recessed so that I don’t need a wrench for holding the nuts while tightening the screws.
 

 
It allows to securely clamp pieces of sheet metal etc. for engraving or other types of milling operations. It can also be clamped in the small holder I made for the micro-vise.
 
You will see soon in the SMS WESPE thread, what sparked making this tool ...

I agree that those stanchions are very tricky to make. I found trying to solder two eyes on the two stanchions that required them the worst part of the job. However, you've achieved an excellent end result, Toni.

It has been a while since my last posting, not for lack of working on Atalanta but for a lack of acceptable results.  The next items to make were the rails surrounding the stairway.  There are four iron stanchions supporting a rail on three sides.  The aft two are shorter to compensate for the angle of the quarter deck.  My first thought was to turn the stanchions.  There is a ball top and a flared base.  Sounds simple enough...  I tried every imaginable rpm and feed rate and universally the piece snapped off before completion.  I looked at Dan's Vulture log and he stated that he was able to turn the stanchions.  Suffice to say, after way too many hours of frustration, I gave up.  On to Plan B.  I used segments of brass tubing threaded on to the correct diameter brass wire for the ball and flare, silver soldering them in place.  Then I hand-filed the appropriate shapes.  Two of the stanchions have a single eye soldered on to them and the other two have a figure of 8 so two rails could attach to them.  All told, this deceptively simple part took almost 8 hours (otherwise known as an entire weekend).  
 
The upper capstan is temporarily positioned and the cleats have been installed.
 

 

 

Happy to have you following along Pat
Nils, at least I didn't have to make them just fix a few up.
 
I have begun working on the missing davit replacement the first thing was to sort of measure it up I did this with a pair of vernier calipers and a pencil tracing.
 

 
I could have used the mill drill out in the shop but it was snowing and getting late so just opted for a drill in a pin chuck with a #68 drill bit to spot the holes through the .020" brass for the side plates.
 

 
After the holes were drilled I used the jewelers saw to fret out the sides these will be annealed before I bend the bottom section prior to soldering the three main body parts together.
 

 
I used some brown Testors paint brushed onto some different textures of card and the Stash tea box was the best to give the right amount of absorption of the gloss paint to leave it as a semi gloss.
 
the three following images were taken with different lighting the first Tungsten the second Fluorescent last one being Daylight I am happy enough with the results and as long as I am careful with the placement I think they will be passable.
 

 

 

 
 
 
Michael
 

I think that you've nailed it, Michael! Will you seal the underside, though?

Last days midnight oil ...