Gabek
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Gabek reacted to Pete38 in Triton by Pete38 - 1:48 - cross-section
WOW.....Got to work on my build 2 days in a row. Not alot done but making headway.
Second beam glue and installed.
Cut 2 spacers so the spacing would be the same for each end glued and clamped.
Going to try for 3 days
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Gabek reacted to Pete38 in Triton by Pete38 - 1:48 - cross-section
I have started on the next section of these beams. I have forgotten what they are called?
Started with some rough stock and resized it down with my Byrnes saw and Drum sander
Layed out the patten with some 3M contact spray. (Sprayed only the paper patten and let dry for about 45 seconds to a minute) this way it will come off with out to much trouble with little or no residue
then sawed them out with my scroll saw and sanded to the lines.
Now dry fitting them and marking for my cut joints
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Gabek reacted to Nirvana in HMS Triton by Gabek - 1:96 - cross-section
Gabe,
Okay ,this one is from me ...... WOW!
That is a nice build log.
Now I have question:
Where on earth did you find those nice clamps (brass but I also saw black ones).
I would like to get hold of those.
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Gabek got a reaction from Nirvana in HMS Triton by Gabek - 1:96 - cross-section
Well, I know that I'm ready for retirement. Work is getting in the way of all the things that I really want to do!
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Gabek got a reaction from UpstateNY in HMS Triton by Gabek - 1:96 - cross-section
Limber Strakes
After cutting some 1.70 mm thick planks and ripping one to 3.50 wide, it was time to cut the rabbet for the limber boards. I really wanted a marking gauge that could scribe 0.95 mm and 0.75 mm widths. I contemplated building one but thought accurate measure might be tough. I then looked at my digital calipers and those nice sharp edges on the jaws and realized I had my marking gauge. I ran the caliper along the edges until I had nice, clear lines scribed. To keep the two strakes consistent, I laid out the rabbet on one long strip which I would cut to length afterwards.
These scribed lines were deep enough to run the xacto along them carefully without a straight edge.
After about a dozen passes down each line a very clean rabbet was formed.
After rough cutting this piece to length, I glued the larboard strakes into place. A 2.50 mm spacer strip helped line them up parallel to the keelson.
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Gabek reacted to Moonbug in Santa Maria by Moonbug - FINISHED - Artesania Latina - Bashed
So, as I continue with many of the finishing details, I've been fretting how I'm going to handle the flags. As the sails are furled, I need to give the impression that the flags are hanging somewhat naturally. They also need to have some of the aging that the rest of the ship represents.
After scouring my local fabric store, and trying a variety of different silks and satins - I ended up going back to the "flags" that are supplied in the AL kit.
First, I soaked the flags in the same 'Scenic glue' that I was using for the rope coils.
Then I hung the flags from my shelf, and shaped them with a variety of clips and gravity. To give them the shape I wanted that would imply hanging naturally.
I then mounted each of the flags. The main and fore mast flags using blocks, and the mizzen using a mounting as illustrated in Pastor's book. I then aged them using some black and brown dusting.
Overall, I'm pretty pleased with the outcome.
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Gabek got a reaction from UpstateNY in HMS Triton by Gabek - 1:96 - cross-section
Thanks for the comments and likes, folks, but...
NOT SO FAST!
Seriously...I shouldn't have been so fast!
I was so excited to get moving again on my miniTriton that I made a couple of BIG mistakes:
1) When I took the gluing clamps off I noticed something strange. I then realized that I had grabbed the wrong piece of wood for one side!
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Gabek got a reaction from -Dallen in HMS Triton by Gabek - 1:96 - cross-section
Well, it's been a while since my last entry...but I haven't been entirely inactive. My progress has been slow primarily because I was working out some problems with making dimension lumber on my little Microlux saw. Try as I might, I just couldn't rip some maple into 1.5 thick strips. At first, the strip would start off fine but after a few centimetres it would wander out and get wider. I played with the fence and stopped the wandering, but then the pieces were coming out tapered from top to bottom. I guessed that the blade was slewing out so I opened the saw and tightened things up. No luck.
I finally realized that the fence was still the culprit and ended up clamping a chunk of wood to the table as a more reliable fence and I was off to the races.
After ripping a bunch of 1.5 mm thick pieces, I marked the frames for the deck clamps. This is where having a framing jig would have been nice. Even though the frames were clamped together while I wasn't working on the model, the spaces between them were not even when set up to install the lower deck clamps. So, I used spacers. Looked like a mess...but it worked.
I tapered the top edge of the deck clamps for a better fit for the deck beams when that time comes and glued them in.
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Gabek got a reaction from GuntherMT in HMS Triton by Gabek - 1:96 - cross-section
Thanks for the comments and likes, folks, but...
NOT SO FAST!
Seriously...I shouldn't have been so fast!
I was so excited to get moving again on my miniTriton that I made a couple of BIG mistakes:
1) When I took the gluing clamps off I noticed something strange. I then realized that I had grabbed the wrong piece of wood for one side!
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Gabek got a reaction from UpstateNY in HMS Triton by Gabek - 1:96 - cross-section
Well, it's been a while since my last entry...but I haven't been entirely inactive. My progress has been slow primarily because I was working out some problems with making dimension lumber on my little Microlux saw. Try as I might, I just couldn't rip some maple into 1.5 thick strips. At first, the strip would start off fine but after a few centimetres it would wander out and get wider. I played with the fence and stopped the wandering, but then the pieces were coming out tapered from top to bottom. I guessed that the blade was slewing out so I opened the saw and tightened things up. No luck.
I finally realized that the fence was still the culprit and ended up clamping a chunk of wood to the table as a more reliable fence and I was off to the races.
After ripping a bunch of 1.5 mm thick pieces, I marked the frames for the deck clamps. This is where having a framing jig would have been nice. Even though the frames were clamped together while I wasn't working on the model, the spaces between them were not even when set up to install the lower deck clamps. So, I used spacers. Looked like a mess...but it worked.
I tapered the top edge of the deck clamps for a better fit for the deck beams when that time comes and glued them in.
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Gabek got a reaction from Canute in HMS Triton by Gabek - 1:96 - cross-section
Thanks for the comments and likes, folks, but...
NOT SO FAST!
Seriously...I shouldn't have been so fast!
I was so excited to get moving again on my miniTriton that I made a couple of BIG mistakes:
1) When I took the gluing clamps off I noticed something strange. I then realized that I had grabbed the wrong piece of wood for one side!
-
Gabek got a reaction from Pete38 in HMS Triton by Gabek - 1:96 - cross-section
Thanks for the comments and likes, folks, but...
NOT SO FAST!
Seriously...I shouldn't have been so fast!
I was so excited to get moving again on my miniTriton that I made a couple of BIG mistakes:
1) When I took the gluing clamps off I noticed something strange. I then realized that I had grabbed the wrong piece of wood for one side!
-
Gabek got a reaction from Erik W in HMS Triton by Gabek - 1:96 - cross-section
Well, it's been a while since my last entry...but I haven't been entirely inactive. My progress has been slow primarily because I was working out some problems with making dimension lumber on my little Microlux saw. Try as I might, I just couldn't rip some maple into 1.5 thick strips. At first, the strip would start off fine but after a few centimetres it would wander out and get wider. I played with the fence and stopped the wandering, but then the pieces were coming out tapered from top to bottom. I guessed that the blade was slewing out so I opened the saw and tightened things up. No luck.
I finally realized that the fence was still the culprit and ended up clamping a chunk of wood to the table as a more reliable fence and I was off to the races.
After ripping a bunch of 1.5 mm thick pieces, I marked the frames for the deck clamps. This is where having a framing jig would have been nice. Even though the frames were clamped together while I wasn't working on the model, the spaces between them were not even when set up to install the lower deck clamps. So, I used spacers. Looked like a mess...but it worked.
I tapered the top edge of the deck clamps for a better fit for the deck beams when that time comes and glued them in.
-
Gabek got a reaction from mtaylor in HMS Triton by Gabek - 1:96 - cross-section
Thanks for the comments and likes, folks, but...
NOT SO FAST!
Seriously...I shouldn't have been so fast!
I was so excited to get moving again on my miniTriton that I made a couple of BIG mistakes:
1) When I took the gluing clamps off I noticed something strange. I then realized that I had grabbed the wrong piece of wood for one side!
-
Gabek got a reaction from Pete38 in HMS Triton by Gabek - 1:96 - cross-section
Well, it's been a while since my last entry...but I haven't been entirely inactive. My progress has been slow primarily because I was working out some problems with making dimension lumber on my little Microlux saw. Try as I might, I just couldn't rip some maple into 1.5 thick strips. At first, the strip would start off fine but after a few centimetres it would wander out and get wider. I played with the fence and stopped the wandering, but then the pieces were coming out tapered from top to bottom. I guessed that the blade was slewing out so I opened the saw and tightened things up. No luck.
I finally realized that the fence was still the culprit and ended up clamping a chunk of wood to the table as a more reliable fence and I was off to the races.
After ripping a bunch of 1.5 mm thick pieces, I marked the frames for the deck clamps. This is where having a framing jig would have been nice. Even though the frames were clamped together while I wasn't working on the model, the spaces between them were not even when set up to install the lower deck clamps. So, I used spacers. Looked like a mess...but it worked.
I tapered the top edge of the deck clamps for a better fit for the deck beams when that time comes and glued them in.
-
Gabek got a reaction from Canute in HMS Triton by Gabek - 1:96 - cross-section
Well, it's been a while since my last entry...but I haven't been entirely inactive. My progress has been slow primarily because I was working out some problems with making dimension lumber on my little Microlux saw. Try as I might, I just couldn't rip some maple into 1.5 thick strips. At first, the strip would start off fine but after a few centimetres it would wander out and get wider. I played with the fence and stopped the wandering, but then the pieces were coming out tapered from top to bottom. I guessed that the blade was slewing out so I opened the saw and tightened things up. No luck.
I finally realized that the fence was still the culprit and ended up clamping a chunk of wood to the table as a more reliable fence and I was off to the races.
After ripping a bunch of 1.5 mm thick pieces, I marked the frames for the deck clamps. This is where having a framing jig would have been nice. Even though the frames were clamped together while I wasn't working on the model, the spaces between them were not even when set up to install the lower deck clamps. So, I used spacers. Looked like a mess...but it worked.
I tapered the top edge of the deck clamps for a better fit for the deck beams when that time comes and glued them in.
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Gabek got a reaction from mischief in The Kit-Basher's Guide To The Galaxy
STRAPPING USING HEAT SHRINK TUBING: Great idea on the heat-shrink tubing!
I just checked Digi-Key.ca and they stock 1.0 mm inner diameter and up (260mm was the largest!) but you can special order 0.5 mm. I found 1.2 mm black tubing in stock: 4 feet (~1.2 m) costs $1.73 (Canadian).
Regarding durability: looking at some of the specifications on this plastic...when your model has aged into a pile of dust and rusted metal bits they could probably sift the mess and find the tubing intact!
Clear skies!
Gabe
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Gabek reacted to ollagynot in H.M.S. Triton (Cross Section) by ollagynot - FINISHED - 1:48
The futtocks for the first frame are cut and assembled. Lots of cleanup sanding needed.
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Gabek got a reaction from Canute in The Kit-Basher's Guide To The Galaxy
STRAPPING USING HEAT SHRINK TUBING: Great idea on the heat-shrink tubing!
I just checked Digi-Key.ca and they stock 1.0 mm inner diameter and up (260mm was the largest!) but you can special order 0.5 mm. I found 1.2 mm black tubing in stock: 4 feet (~1.2 m) costs $1.73 (Canadian).
Regarding durability: looking at some of the specifications on this plastic...when your model has aged into a pile of dust and rusted metal bits they could probably sift the mess and find the tubing intact!
Clear skies!
Gabe
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Gabek got a reaction from 7 Provinces in The Kit-Basher's Guide To The Galaxy
STRAPPING USING HEAT SHRINK TUBING: Great idea on the heat-shrink tubing!
I just checked Digi-Key.ca and they stock 1.0 mm inner diameter and up (260mm was the largest!) but you can special order 0.5 mm. I found 1.2 mm black tubing in stock: 4 feet (~1.2 m) costs $1.73 (Canadian).
Regarding durability: looking at some of the specifications on this plastic...when your model has aged into a pile of dust and rusted metal bits they could probably sift the mess and find the tubing intact!
Clear skies!
Gabe
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Gabek got a reaction from WackoWolf in The Kit-Basher's Guide To The Galaxy
STRAPPING USING HEAT SHRINK TUBING: Great idea on the heat-shrink tubing!
I just checked Digi-Key.ca and they stock 1.0 mm inner diameter and up (260mm was the largest!) but you can special order 0.5 mm. I found 1.2 mm black tubing in stock: 4 feet (~1.2 m) costs $1.73 (Canadian).
Regarding durability: looking at some of the specifications on this plastic...when your model has aged into a pile of dust and rusted metal bits they could probably sift the mess and find the tubing intact!
Clear skies!
Gabe
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Gabek got a reaction from CaptainSteve in The Kit-Basher's Guide To The Galaxy
STRAPPING USING HEAT SHRINK TUBING: Great idea on the heat-shrink tubing!
I just checked Digi-Key.ca and they stock 1.0 mm inner diameter and up (260mm was the largest!) but you can special order 0.5 mm. I found 1.2 mm black tubing in stock: 4 feet (~1.2 m) costs $1.73 (Canadian).
Regarding durability: looking at some of the specifications on this plastic...when your model has aged into a pile of dust and rusted metal bits they could probably sift the mess and find the tubing intact!
Clear skies!
Gabe
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Gabek got a reaction from mattsayers148 in The Kit-Basher's Guide To The Galaxy
STRAPPING USING HEAT SHRINK TUBING: Great idea on the heat-shrink tubing!
I just checked Digi-Key.ca and they stock 1.0 mm inner diameter and up (260mm was the largest!) but you can special order 0.5 mm. I found 1.2 mm black tubing in stock: 4 feet (~1.2 m) costs $1.73 (Canadian).
Regarding durability: looking at some of the specifications on this plastic...when your model has aged into a pile of dust and rusted metal bits they could probably sift the mess and find the tubing intact!
Clear skies!
Gabe
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Gabek got a reaction from Bobstrake in The Kit-Basher's Guide To The Galaxy
STRAPPING USING HEAT SHRINK TUBING: Great idea on the heat-shrink tubing!
I just checked Digi-Key.ca and they stock 1.0 mm inner diameter and up (260mm was the largest!) but you can special order 0.5 mm. I found 1.2 mm black tubing in stock: 4 feet (~1.2 m) costs $1.73 (Canadian).
Regarding durability: looking at some of the specifications on this plastic...when your model has aged into a pile of dust and rusted metal bits they could probably sift the mess and find the tubing intact!
Clear skies!
Gabe
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