Gabek

STRAPPING USING HEAT SHRINK TUBING: Great idea on the heat-shrink tubing!
 
I just checked Digi-Key.ca and they stock 1.0 mm inner diameter and up (260mm was the largest!) but you can special order 0.5 mm. I found 1.2 mm black tubing in stock: 4 feet (~1.2 m) costs $1.73 (Canadian).
 
Regarding durability: looking at some of the specifications on this plastic...when your model has aged into a pile of dust and rusted metal bits they could probably sift the mess and find the tubing intact!
 
Clear skies!
Gabe

STRAPPING USING HEAT SHRINK TUBING: Great idea on the heat-shrink tubing!
 
I just checked Digi-Key.ca and they stock 1.0 mm inner diameter and up (260mm was the largest!) but you can special order 0.5 mm. I found 1.2 mm black tubing in stock: 4 feet (~1.2 m) costs $1.73 (Canadian).
 
Regarding durability: looking at some of the specifications on this plastic...when your model has aged into a pile of dust and rusted metal bits they could probably sift the mess and find the tubing intact!
 
Clear skies!
Gabe

STRAPPING USING HEAT SHRINK TUBING: Great idea on the heat-shrink tubing!
 
I just checked Digi-Key.ca and they stock 1.0 mm inner diameter and up (260mm was the largest!) but you can special order 0.5 mm. I found 1.2 mm black tubing in stock: 4 feet (~1.2 m) costs $1.73 (Canadian).
 
Regarding durability: looking at some of the specifications on this plastic...when your model has aged into a pile of dust and rusted metal bits they could probably sift the mess and find the tubing intact!
 
Clear skies!
Gabe

HEAT-SHRINK TUBING TO MAKE IRON ANCHOR BANDS
 
The following has been lifted, with permission, from Blue Ensign’s HMS Pegasus log …
 

SPENT STEEL SHOT FROM SHOT-BLASTING
 
Endless uses.

 
GRAPESHOT
 

 
First off is find a tube, I used brass, that matches the bore size of desired cannon and cut to length of shot. Apply wax to the inside of the tube with an object that slides snug inside the tube(I used brass again).

 
Carefully select desired size shot and drop them loosely into the tube. DO NOT pack, lightly drop. It works best if at least 3 or more pieces can lay flat, side by side inside the tube.
 
Once the tube is filled, carefully drop a tiny bit of thin CA on top of the shot, let it sit for a couple of seconds, and then use the smaller tube to push out the mold.

 
Let the pieces dry hard, lightly file both ends and glue to a thin piece of wood with CA. Once dry, glue another piece to the other end the same way. Apply CA to the backside of the wood pieces and let dry hard.

 
Now the fun part. Sand or file the wood to match the bore diameter and thin the wood at the ends. Avoid sanding or scraping the shots because the dried CA will go white and look bad.
 
Carefully pick off any dried, white bits of CA. Use a dab of wax, or the sweat off your forehead at this point, and softly roll on the palm of your hand to remove any left over white flakes of CA. Continuing doing this until you achieve the desired amount.

The most important part, wax inside the tube and the push rod! If you don't, it may be stuck there for good. Most likely a few get botched and it also creates build up inside the tube. So if you want 6, make 12. If you're lucky more than six will turn out well.

System, thank you for sharing your picture of Sadie with me.  Hopefully my Sadie will be able to pose for the camera soon.  
 
Thank you everyone for your kind comments and thanks for all the likes.  The good thing about a recuperating dog is that they sleep a lot.  So I got in a little workshop time today.  With something as complex as a stove, one needs to ask how much detail is necessary.  I decided to make the spit holders, the vertical ash grate (the horizontal one cannot be seen once the stove is installed) and the ash bin.  These were made from brass wire and shim brass cut and filed to shape.  I rolled the grate rods between my fingers to get that "used" look.  I left the ring bolts bright just for some contrast.  I may change my mind and blacken them before final installation.  They are only press-fit in place.  The stove and ash bin sit on an iron platform.  I used blackened brass and burnished it to get some color variations.  I am considering removing it as the stove visually fades into the black background when viewed from above.  One must remember, unless I put a fiberoptic scope through a gunport, the only way the stove will be seen is from above.  I will decide in the next few weeks.
 

 

 

 

 

This is probably my last update of my Bluenose log.
I took all the pics for the gallery and here I present some of them. The gallery will be open soon.

I would like to thank you all for replys, comment, likes or just stopping by at my log. THANKS   .

Enjoy the pics.


 

Keith has done it again! He motivated me to do something and I'm now posting my final reflection on the Swift. Inspired by one of my favourite movies, I'm going to use some headings in this post.
 

Arrr ...
CaptainSteve, blushing a deep colouration somewhere a-twixt red and pink, doth indeed-eth and most verily, wish to express-eth his gratitude to one and all for the platitudes above !!!
 
“Truly,” were Our Hero to sigh most gratefully, “you guys (and gals) have been of incalculable assistance and have kept me going throughout this build."
 
“Whatsomore,” he didst continue, “there be NO WAY that me Launch could have ended up a-looking the way she does wi'out the Horde and MSW !!”
 
Now, as he were-eth to mention above, CaptainSteve didst have a couple o’ final touches in mind ...
 
“I be a-wanting,” he were to announce-eth, “a couple o’ extra tools.”
 
To that end, today Our Hero didst mock-eth up a pair o’ extra chisels and a cross-cut saw to be placed “lazily” ‘pon one o’ the thwarts.
“Me idea a-bein’,” he were to explain-eth, “to display the tool-box that little bit betterer.”
 
And so, without further waffling, here be pictures …
 

The chisels are just a pair of cast-metal belaying pins which hath been salvaged from the remains of kits gone-by. They has been shaped using the Dremel with a grinding bit, and given a touch o’ paint.
 
The cross-cut saw was made wi’ some scrap timber. The blade was, once 'pon a time, an Exacto saw-blade which hath been cut, trimmed and grinded to shape. And the tension wire at the top be the wire middle trimmed from an ordinary twist-tie, folded o’er, twisted into shape and chemically blackened.
 
"Here they be a-fixed into position."

("Arrr-geth," were Our Hero to roll-eth his eyes, "I be a-maintainin' that the yellow on them bread-fruits be not-eth a-lookin' SOOO YELLOW in reality !!")
 

("Dang it !! Why cant-eth me camera be taking pictures like this all the time ?!?!?")
 
“Tomorrow,” CaptainSteve were to blather on, “be the big launching o’ me Launch.”
 
Our Hero plans to be adding some final photos from the Launch party, but then this build-log can be considered, most verily, to be-eth finalized !!
 
“I be a-hopin’ to see each an’ e’ery one o’ ye over at the continuation o’ me USS Constitution build !!”

Arr …
CaptainSteve hath been most busy o'er these last few days, for it doth seem-eth that he hath been a-boasting o’ his Launch around the work-place …
 
“’Twouldst appear-eth that there be such a thing as ‘Bring-Your-Launch-to-Work Day’”, Our Hero were to state-eth, most perplexed.
 
“But, I be most perplexed ... for I know-eth not o’ any other Launch modellers around me place o’ employment ??”, he didst continue.
“Furthermore, apparently this newly proclaimed ‘Day’ be tomorrow ?!?!”
Arr ...
 
But never fear, for CaptainSteve be working better whence under pressure. As such, Our Hero hath been at fever-pitch a-finishing off the décor and details o’ his boat.
“I be aiming,” he were to re-iterate, “to be a-launching me Launch this coming weekend.”
 
To that end, CaptainAndrew hath already been liaised with … the BBQ steaks be marinating at this very moment … and the local publican be standing by wi’ cartons o’ beer …
“Well, I be almos’ done,” Our Hero stated, most triumphantly.
 
Firstly, these be the items which were not to make-eth the cut ...

("Eighteen out o' 79 ... Verily, most hath been included !!")
 
And so, with great fan-fare, CaptainSteve were to most heartily proclaim-eth, "Wi'out further fan-fare, here be pictures !!"
 

 
"Oh, and these as well," ....

 
"Finally, this one ..."

 
For all intents and purposes, CaptainSteve's Launch now be complete ...
"I be a-wanting to add just a couple o' final pieces," he didst add-eth, paradoxically. "But they can be a-waitin' until after this 'Bring-Your-Launch-to-Work Day' !!"

Well, I finally got some time to work on the Triton. Even though its been a while I have been thinking non-stop about this little model and I have been making some wild plans for her. One thing that I felt I needed to change were the keel, keelson and false keel. The dark contrast between the birch frames and the chechen was not what I wanted...not terribly realistic. So, I fabricated new pieces from birch. With the keel piece in place I used an exacto knife to mark the top of the rabet, and used an even larger straight gouge, finely honed, to cut the notch out.
 

 
I cut the keel, etc., longer than needed so I could clamp the ends down. I saw this on another Triton build where the builder had screwed down the ends and thought it was an excellent method. However, I should have realized that I don't have screws small enough to do this at my scale. I ended up clamping them down with some planking screw clamps. I glued down a print of the frame plan to a work board to help with lining up the frames when the time came.
 
I spent quite a bit of time shaping the notches for the keelson and keel to get a tight fit. I kept the frames clamped together to help line things up and to help support the wood to prevent breaking another frame.
 

 
After I had the keelson fitted I made use of a couple of miniature machinist clamps to make sure the keel and keelson lined up properly.
 

 
When time finally came to glue the frames in place I oringinally wanted to use carpenter's glue so I could adjust and fiddle. However, when I was dry-fitting and rehearsing the work I realized that it was going to be a nightmare to clamp and hold these small frames in place. So, I decided to go with cyano gel...should give me a few seconds to play but only need to be held in place for a short time.
 
I thought that starting at the middle would be best so I picked frame 1 and, wouldn't you know it, as I was working out how to align the frame I forgot how delicate these were and I snapped it right in the middle. Let's just say that I dug deep into my lexicon of swear words. Clamped together, these frames had been sturdy and a few months away from this model made me careless.
 
I grabbed some brush-on CA and managed to fit the parts back together rather easily. I put it aside and decided to push on with frame O first.
 
When the time finally came to glue down the frame things went fairly smoothly. A small machinists square helped.
 
The first frame glued in...and the wounded Frame 1 lying off to the side
 
 

 
I continued to frame C in fairly quick succession. I had cut many spacers of the correct width to help me with this and future stages and they proved invaluable. By the time I got to this point Frame 1 had had enough curing time so I just kept on going. I think the entire gluing stage may have taken 20 minutes. Thank you CA!
 
 


 

 
I had to do a bit more filing to fit the keelson to my liking, but eventually it was glued up as well.
 

Thanks for the comments, Ray and bigcreekdad. I won't be giving up on this any time soon even though it may drive me nuts. Which is what most of us ship modellers probably are, come to think of it!
 
Clear skies and sharp tools!
 
Gabe

Finally I could write, Bluenose is finished     .

Life boats were last piece in puzzle. I replace kits plywood with pearwood, and definitely looks better.

The reason for slow progress is on the last photo      .

I will post photos of finished model in a few days.

Hello Gabe,
I'm glad you didn't give up on your Micro Triton. Your choice of timber and your level of care at these delicate pieces is rather impressive. I look forward to more of your updates.
 
Ray

I think Bligh and the loyal crew would have been overjoyed to have as many provisions!
 
Excellent work, Steve

I think Bligh and the loyal crew would have been overjoyed to have as many provisions!
 
Excellent work, Steve

I think Bligh and the loyal crew would have been overjoyed to have as many provisions!
 
Excellent work, Steve

Looking good...I've got to get back to mine.

Ratlines finished  .

Kit instructions suggest to use rope for attaching anchors. Instead of rope I used chain. For blackening I used Blacken-it solution and slightly oiled it before installation to hide patina look.

Still few bits to go, currently working on display case.
 
 

A few more images showing the build at present.

Well, I finally got some time to work on the Triton. Even though its been a while I have been thinking non-stop about this little model and I have been making some wild plans for her. One thing that I felt I needed to change were the keel, keelson and false keel. The dark contrast between the birch frames and the chechen was not what I wanted...not terribly realistic. So, I fabricated new pieces from birch. With the keel piece in place I used an exacto knife to mark the top of the rabet, and used an even larger straight gouge, finely honed, to cut the notch out.
 

 
I cut the keel, etc., longer than needed so I could clamp the ends down. I saw this on another Triton build where the builder had screwed down the ends and thought it was an excellent method. However, I should have realized that I don't have screws small enough to do this at my scale. I ended up clamping them down with some planking screw clamps. I glued down a print of the frame plan to a work board to help with lining up the frames when the time came.
 
I spent quite a bit of time shaping the notches for the keelson and keel to get a tight fit. I kept the frames clamped together to help line things up and to help support the wood to prevent breaking another frame.
 

 
After I had the keelson fitted I made use of a couple of miniature machinist clamps to make sure the keel and keelson lined up properly.
 

 
When time finally came to glue the frames in place I oringinally wanted to use carpenter's glue so I could adjust and fiddle. However, when I was dry-fitting and rehearsing the work I realized that it was going to be a nightmare to clamp and hold these small frames in place. So, I decided to go with cyano gel...should give me a few seconds to play but only need to be held in place for a short time.
 
I thought that starting at the middle would be best so I picked frame 1 and, wouldn't you know it, as I was working out how to align the frame I forgot how delicate these were and I snapped it right in the middle. Let's just say that I dug deep into my lexicon of swear words. Clamped together, these frames had been sturdy and a few months away from this model made me careless.
 
I grabbed some brush-on CA and managed to fit the parts back together rather easily. I put it aside and decided to push on with frame O first.
 
When the time finally came to glue down the frame things went fairly smoothly. A small machinists square helped.
 
The first frame glued in...and the wounded Frame 1 lying off to the side
 
 

 
I continued to frame C in fairly quick succession. I had cut many spacers of the correct width to help me with this and future stages and they proved invaluable. By the time I got to this point Frame 1 had had enough curing time so I just kept on going. I think the entire gluing stage may have taken 20 minutes. Thank you CA!
 
 


 

 
I had to do a bit more filing to fit the keelson to my liking, but eventually it was glued up as well.
 

Well, I finally got some time to work on the Triton. Even though its been a while I have been thinking non-stop about this little model and I have been making some wild plans for her. One thing that I felt I needed to change were the keel, keelson and false keel. The dark contrast between the birch frames and the chechen was not what I wanted...not terribly realistic. So, I fabricated new pieces from birch. With the keel piece in place I used an exacto knife to mark the top of the rabet, and used an even larger straight gouge, finely honed, to cut the notch out.
 

 
I cut the keel, etc., longer than needed so I could clamp the ends down. I saw this on another Triton build where the builder had screwed down the ends and thought it was an excellent method. However, I should have realized that I don't have screws small enough to do this at my scale. I ended up clamping them down with some planking screw clamps. I glued down a print of the frame plan to a work board to help with lining up the frames when the time came.
 
I spent quite a bit of time shaping the notches for the keelson and keel to get a tight fit. I kept the frames clamped together to help line things up and to help support the wood to prevent breaking another frame.
 

 
After I had the keelson fitted I made use of a couple of miniature machinist clamps to make sure the keel and keelson lined up properly.
 

 
When time finally came to glue the frames in place I oringinally wanted to use carpenter's glue so I could adjust and fiddle. However, when I was dry-fitting and rehearsing the work I realized that it was going to be a nightmare to clamp and hold these small frames in place. So, I decided to go with cyano gel...should give me a few seconds to play but only need to be held in place for a short time.
 
I thought that starting at the middle would be best so I picked frame 1 and, wouldn't you know it, as I was working out how to align the frame I forgot how delicate these were and I snapped it right in the middle. Let's just say that I dug deep into my lexicon of swear words. Clamped together, these frames had been sturdy and a few months away from this model made me careless.
 
I grabbed some brush-on CA and managed to fit the parts back together rather easily. I put it aside and decided to push on with frame O first.
 
When the time finally came to glue down the frame things went fairly smoothly. A small machinists square helped.
 
The first frame glued in...and the wounded Frame 1 lying off to the side
 
 

 
I continued to frame C in fairly quick succession. I had cut many spacers of the correct width to help me with this and future stages and they proved invaluable. By the time I got to this point Frame 1 had had enough curing time so I just kept on going. I think the entire gluing stage may have taken 20 minutes. Thank you CA!
 
 


 

 
I had to do a bit more filing to fit the keelson to my liking, but eventually it was glued up as well.
 

Now I'm feeling old. I do remember 8in floppys and punch cards!
 
I wonder how many people realise what the standard icon for 'save' is?

The Captain asked me to make this post, so here it is: how to make balustrades from beads, wire, and string. 
 
The beads can be purchased in a jewelry supply shop. For those in Melbourne, and those interested in mail order, this is where I bought it from: 
 
(Code 11358), Metal 2.5mm round silver, 200pc/pack, AUD$5.99: http://www.wholesalebeads.com.au/shop.asp?cat=744
 
(Code 11350) Metal 2.5mm x 2.5mm cube raw, 100pc/pack, AUD$8.99: http://www.wholesalebeads.com.au/shop.asp?cat=1332
 
Making the balustrade is self explanatory with these pictures. 
 

 
Cut suitable lengths of wire, then CA the beads in position using a suitable jig to achieve even spacing. 
 

 
Tie a string around the middle, then CA it in place. Trim the string flush. 
 

 
Wrap the string around the wire until a bulb is formed. Periodically add a few drops of CA - the idea is to impregnate the thread with CA to make it possible to turn it on a lathe later. 
 

 
When done, coat with liquid Sculpey: http://www.sculpey.com/product/sculpey-translucent-liquid/
 

 
Bake the balustrades as per the Sculpey instructions: 130C for 15 minutes. When cool, mount on a lathe and sand off any imperfections. Paint it a colour of your choice.
 

 
Comparison of balustrades made using this method, and my best effort at turning pear wood on a lathe. 
 

 

 
Some applications for the balustrades. Mounting the balustrades is dead easy -drill holes through the wood, dip the end of the balustrade in a tiny bit of CA, and push it into the hole. Trim the exposed ends and sand it flat. If you don't like the dots of exposed metal, you can cover it with a thin layer of veneer, or paint over it.

So, following small progress.
The bowsprit and first mast assembled:

 
I checked I can twice stretch a rigging thread through a tube:

 
Also I looked as the bowsprit and the mast look on the hull of the yacht:

Bets Regards!
Igor.