GGibson

Jon, I love that display technique!! Very unique way to expose the details on the gun deck! Yeah, the intent of buying a handful from Model Monkey to start with was to experiment with dissection. So, I'll mess with them sometime. I have plenty of time before I get to that point. I will. of course, being watching your process with great interest. Carry on, sir! 👍🏆

Hey, Jon! Your aft planking is looking great! It is interesting to see how you gentlemen are planking the spar deck in order to best expose the details of the gun deck. And I am also very interested in how you are using your Model Monkey carronades. I recall the conversation we were having back in January on Peter's build log regarding these Model Monkey 3-D carronades (starting at Post #427, FYI). At the time, we were discussing the possibility of cutting/separating the cannon and screw adjustment mechanism part from the carriage base, so that the carriage base would be made from wood. I even purchased a half dozen of the 3-D printed carronades to examine ahead of time. But it sounds like you are just going to use the full 3-D printed carronade piece on your ship? Anxious to see how it comes out! Thanks for the update, Jon!

Great to hear that acknowledgement from you, Jon. As I said, I'll take the baby-step wins. Thank you, sir!

Another (I’ll try to be) quick update on this Constitution build. In my mind, this feels like one of those “…small step for model builder man, giant leap for Gregg-kind” type of accomplishments. I’ll take the baby-step wins when I can get them, because I know a ton of “what the…?!?”s will cross my lips ultimately in this journey, as well. First thing I wanted to get done was what I had mentioned at the end of my last post… and that is to insert some brass tubes up through the keel and into the bulkhead former a bit in order to provide additional support for when this ship is placed in a permanent base. Several builders have done this on whatever ship they were constructing, and I mentioned that Jon gave an excellent tutorial on what he did early on for his Constitution, so… I had to follow suit. I decided to place the two support holes about 12” apart, approximately at the F & N bulkhead locations. Using just a pin vise and drilling holes by hand, I had to accurately drill straight down through the rabbet and keel in order to insert a 3/32” tube at each spot. I started with a #60 micro drill bit and carefully worked my way up through larger drill bits so as to not tear out the hole. So, a #60 drill bit, then a #54, then a #50, then 5/64”, then finally a 3/32” bit so that I could tap in the small tubes. Sweet! I had also mentioned in my last post that I was considering making some cuts into the appropriate bulkheads and keel locations in order to have visible ladders going from the detailed gun deck down to what would be the berth deck. I looked at what others had done to the bulkheads and bulkhead formers to accomplish this visual. Some had made the cuts at this stage, others had made cuts into the frames after the bulkheads had been secured to the center spine. I decided to do this before attaching the bulkheads. After reviewing several previous build logs and several USN documents, I made the following cuts in the center keel… For the fore hatch going down to the berth deck, I cut out the center keel 19.34mm back from the Bulkhead F and 1” deep. For the main hatch going down to the berth deck, I cut out the center keel 37.12mm back from Bulkhead I, which removed all from between Bulkheads I & J and went back another 12.44mm from Bulkhead J. For the after hatch (the one that will be just in front of the capstan), I cut out the center keel 19.43mm from between Bulkheads L & M, beginning 9.78mm back from Bulkhead L. For the companionway hatch (the one that will be just behind the capstan), I cut out the center keel 19.43mm from between Bulkheads M & N, beginning 14.52mm back from Bulkhead M. In addition to the cuts made to the center keel, cuts also need to be made to a couple of the bulkheads that will be in the way in order to accommodate the “ladders to the berth deck” illusion. So, the gun deck beams from Bulkheads I & J were removed now (other gun deck beams will be removed similarly later) as well as some deep cuts. According to the USN plans (and looking again at other builds), it appears all of the gun deck hatches going down to the berth deck are 5’ wide, which translates in our 1:76.8 scale to 0.78125”. So, the openings in these bulkheads were made that wide. And, yes, the beams that are being removed will be saved in order to use as templates for when the new beams are added back in later on in this build process. And, yes, I am still worried about snagging and breaking off at least one of these bulkhead extensions at some point during this build process! Uggghhh... So, all in all, a good start to the first major bashing in this project. I believe, then, that the next task is to get the Lego blocks out and, after a bit of initial fairing on a few of the bulkheads, secure each of the bulkheads to the center keel. Then, begin on the filler blocks. Thanks, as always, for peeking in. Appreciate the likes, comments, advice and criticisms.

These coins look really cool, Gene! Nice work! Do you have a list of the 12 images you have created to-date? I didn't see that on the Amazon page. Would be an interesting addition to my Constitution build and display when I eventually finish it... 🤷‍♂️😬🤣 Again, beautiful work, Gene! I wish you great success!

Thanks for the input, fellas! Yeah, it seems like that is the proper thing to do. I may look at "pre-sanding" some of the "end bulkheads", i.e. Bulkheads A, B, Q, R, that will require a deeper sanding than others to eventually fair properly but otherwise will hold off on the detailed fairing until all bulkheads are in and I can test them with a planking strip. Appreciate the reminder, gentlemen! Last night I did give each of the bulkhead tops a nice, thin coat of Titebond glue to help strengthen them, as I know I am bound to snag one or two of them during this build/install process. Hopefully. a nice topcoat of this glue will toughen them up to prevent any serious *SNAPS*... 🤷‍♂️😬 Before I begin securing the bulkheads to the keel, I am thinking this would be the best time, if I am going to do it, to drill holes in the bottom of the keel in order to insert brass rod and tubes to help hold and provide additional support for the ship on whatever type of pedestal/cradle base that is eventually made for its display. Although other builders may have done this, I do know that Jon Gerson described his process of doing this very well in his build log. Thanks, Jon! 🏆

Yeah, that's pretty much what I meant, Peter. Thanks for the correction! 👍

Looks like an enjoyable summer with family, Mustafa! Enjoy, my friend! 🏆👍

Well, another (fairly brief) update as I’ve done a bit more work and taken a handful of notes. We spoiled the grandkids during their extended visit for this summer and, of course, the grandkids wore us out. The house is back to being quiet, so I’ll try to get back down to the shipyard more frequently again. I left off my build log having scribed and drawn the 3/32” lines to reduce each of the bulkheads, in order to compensate and allow for the detailed gun deck. So, time now to get the Dremel on the drill press workstation and sand down all of the bulkheads. The process worked out pretty well, although I had to use one hand to pull the workstation handle down to lower the Dremel and the sanding drum and the other hand to guide the bulkhead across its sanding path. The sanding really took it out on the sanding drums, too, chewing them up pretty bad, and I had to replace the drums after each bulkhead. Also, even though I was using the smallest diameter mandrel and sanding drums I had, I was not able to get tight into the corners of each bulkhead, so I used my Zona saber blade to trim the corners. That worked out well. I also used my Dremel and sanding drum to taper the bulkhead former at the bearding line. I scribed lines on the bottom of the bulkhead former where I needed to narrow the thickness for the rabbet and sanded down to those lines from stem to stern. I also sanded and cleaned up, as best I could, the laser char from each bulkhead slot and bulkhead former slot piece (clamping them in a vise). Then, using a technique I saw Tom (usedtosail) use in his build, I placed all of the bulkheads in a scrap piece of ¼” thick basswood and lined up all of the gun deck level beams so that I could then see how my “adjusted” spar deck levels were across all of the bulkheads. I took a long file to smooth them all down as best I could to an even level. There are subtle visible changes in the before and after pictures. Also, as just about everyone else has done and as recommended in the practicum, I placed a piece of 1/32” x 1” x 2” basswood on both sides of the bulkhead former joints in order to provide additional reinforcement support. One of the definitive differences between the 1812 Constitution version and other periods was the use of rope for the gammoning on the bowsprit and stem rather than chain. So, since my goal is to be “1812-ish”, and whether this is actually correct or not, I placed the stem piece on my mill and widened the two simple holes at the top of the stem piece to eventually accommodate the rope that will hold the bowsprit to the front stem. Also, before securing the stem piece onto the bulkhead former, I used a round file to shave a small groove at the top of the stem for the eventual placement of the bowsprit. Seems like a good time to do this while the stem piece is free. Although I have probably forgotten some important task, I think I am ready to secure the stem, sternpost and 3-piece center keel assembly to the bulkhead former. Using some Titebond CA glue, a couple palm-sized 3.3 lb. dive weights and some clamps, I attached the keel framework. Since I first started this hobby, I have been using my Amati “Keel Klamper” vise to hold my boats while under construction for as long as possible, and it has worked out well. However, the vise makes the ships sit fairly high off of the table and, with the Constitution being a big (and long) ship to begin with, I thought it would be good to have a different keel clamp. I had seen on some other build logs, like Mustafa’s, for instance, that a small clamp had been constructed, so… I did the same. A couple of 15” x 1½” x ¾“ strips along with two (2) legs at 8” x ¾“ square and some ¼“ bolts and nuts. At some point, I may move this ship to a cushioned cradle, but for now, let’s try this keel clamp. So, I have “test-placed” the bulkheads in their appropriate BHF slots. As was suggested in the practicum, I have placed Bulkheads A-K with their printed letters facing the stem forward, and Bulkheads L-R facing the stern. I need to do more work on Bulkheads K, M, N & P to get them to fit in their slots. And, although I have penciled the bevel marks on each of the necessary bulkheads, I have not done any beveling and am weighing the alternatives about doing some of the beveling now before they are secured vs. waiting until they are in place. I am also considering making some cuts into the appropriate bulkheads and keel locations in order to properly display the ladders that will be going from the detailed gun deck down to what would be the berth deck. That is my next project to be completed. As always, appreciate the likes, comments, criticisms and advice. Thanks…

...but, after all that work, put them on your spar deck, instead!! 🤷‍♂️🤣 Nice work, Peter!

Welcome, Gene! Will be interesting to see info on the engravable brass coins!

Thank you, Eric! Just getting started on the Constitution... and it's going to be a long build... so get a comfortable chair! 🤷‍♂️🤣

This is interesting, Mustafa. And, I assume, using a hand-held pin vise? I don't think my Proxxon has a reverse gear! 🤷‍♂️😅

Sounds like boxwood is the way to go for these smaller parts. I really haven't had the "need" to have any boxwood for previous builds, but from all of your build logs I am reading, I purchased a small supply of boxwood for my Constitution from Joe at Modeler's Sawmill. got a few 1/32" & 1/16" thick sheets, as well as some strips for deck planking. Not sure if I saw this explained previously, Peter, so sorry for asking again if I missed it. When you cut and drilled these gunport lids, did you initially drill the holes from long strips and then cut the lids to size, or did you cut to size, then drill the necessary holes? Do you cut the holes with some waste wood behind the pieces being cut? Always interested in others' processes... Happy 4th! USA, USA!!

Good to hear that's not going to be an issue for you! Appreciate the offer, Peter, but my local Woodcraft store had some in stock. Picked up a 1" x 9" x 3' piece. It really does look nice and should make an awesome base. Haven't decided yet on type of mounting hardware/configuration but really thinking about Jon's solution using brass tubes and rods for additional support, whatever is used. Take the wins when you can get them! 👍🏆

I got a smorgasbord... 0.020", 0.030", 0.040" & 0.050" thicknesses in various quantities - All cutting saws, 3" diameter, 1/2" hole, 90 teeth

I was not aware of this! Thanks for the heads-up! I placed my first order with Malco around the first of the year for my (at-the-time) newly acquired Byrnes saw. Excellent saw blades, although I was pretty much past any serious cutting stages on my previous build (and, frankly, I, too, was disappointed in the shipping delays, totally UPS fault, though, not Malco's). Looking forward to using the Byrnes and blades more as I begin my Constitution. Again, thanks for the info! 👍

Agreed! Do whatever you feel you need to as the builder, Peter, but don't think anyone is going to comment on any cannon size disparity. Can't remember if I have seen pictures of your base and pedestals previously, but I am really liking the looks! Great job! I just purchased a piece of canarywood that I am going to use (eventually!) for my Constitution base.

Nice comparison exercise, Peter! I hope you like Ropes of Scale. They do have a light beige, as well.

Congrats on finishing! I simply glued my boat to the stand, but you could use brass rod and tubing as an alternative. K&S Metals is my go-to for anything brass. Round Tubing | 1" OD and Smaller | USA Made | K&S Precision Metals – ksmetals Good luck!

Hey Peter! Thanks for the comments and recommendations. In all of my research of completed and ongoing Constitution build logs, I saw that it appears that Jon used a Dremel or similar tool on his bulkheads (Page 5, Post #140) and Tom (usedtosail) used a Dremel and stand on his bulkheads (Page 1, Post #19). As I mentioned above, it is my intent to wait until the bulkheads are in place before cutting and removing them, which is what Tom did on his build. Seems like it worked out well for him, but I'm still fearing snagging one of the long bulkhead frames. Ken's Constitution build log was also one of those completed logs that I read extensively and have referred back to frequently in my preparation. And I recall his discussion about the carrier deck, but I took it to mean basically the same process that others have used in having some type of base sheet under the gun deck planking, no matter whether it's plywood, basswood or some other type of flat base. I'll look at how to best fill those spaces between the bulkheads, though. I'll read some more on that. Thanks for the heads-up. Thanks for the tip reminder, Jon! I remember your comment in your Constitution build log about this very item. You will note on those last couple of pictures in my post above that I have already written the bulkhead letter on the spar deck braces so that once they're cut off, I'll know where it came from! Quick question looking for input on the placement of the bulkheads. In Bob Hunt's practicum, he mentions placing Bulkheads A-K with the printed letters facing the stem and Bulkheads L-R facing the stern. I recall someone else mentioning that they had to fidget a bit with their bulkhead placements so they fit well in the respective BHF slots. Did anyone have issues? My obviously initial intent is, once trimmed, for all of the newly-created gun deck bulkheads be level and even before placement and, once inserted, for them to all line up with their marked reference lines. I hope to get back this weekend to working on tapering the BHF from the bearding line to the rabbet, getting the three BHF pieces connected, attaching the keel and stern post, and getting everything in a keel klamper vise so that I can have it ready for the bulkhead placement (whenever I finish getting those trimmed). We still have grandkids but trying to find late-night time to get into the shipyard.

Well, I’ve had a little bit of shipyard time even while the grandkids are visiting, so thought I’d provide a short update. Of course, like everyone else has done, I had multiple copies of the eight-page plans made and will use one of those copies for my “cut-up plans”. So, I cut out all of the bulkhead and bulkhead former drawings in order to transfer the various markings and reference lines to the ship’s applicable pieces. On the plans for the bulkhead former, I cut out the bearding line so that I could trace that line directly onto both sides of the bulkhead former pieces so that a rabbet could be made. As I had stated in my initial post and like several other builders had done, it is my plan to bash a detailed gun deck. So to do that, I will need to trim 3/32” from the bulkhead former pieces and from the gun deck level on each of the bulkheads (1/32” for the basswood sheet base plus 1/16” gun deck planking strips). I grabbed my compass that has a point on one end and lead on the other for markings. However, it is only able to squeeze down to a 1/8” distance, so it would not work for this. I was able, however, to find a really nice, heavy compass on Amazon that worked well in scribing the necessary 3/32” lines. After I marked the 3/32” cut lines on each of the bulkhead former pieces, my initial thought was that it would be easier to trim the individual bulkhead pieces separately, before gluing each of the halves together. So, I cut a few of the 3/32” pieces off of the starboard side of the front bulkhead former piece and… SNAP. The back-and-forth motion of the saw on the thin layer was enough to break off a part of the area between the F & G bulkheads. OK, ok… Time to glue the bulkhead former halves together in order to make it thicker and more solid. Having thicker bulkhead former pieces made it much easier to trim them down to their required height. And, as has been discussed before in other build logs, although not technically necessary, I also trimmed the mast hole areas by the 3/32” amount, as well, and will make those adjustments to the masts when I get to that point. As I did with the bulkhead former pieces, I also used my new compass to scribe the 3/32” lines onto each of the eighteen (18) bulkheads (although I don’t think Bulkhead R will be shortened but I’ll verify again beforehand). I also want to verify how Bulkhead B will be addressed with its bowsprit notch. I think it is important to note that, as seen by the picture with the ruler, the scribe line is not a straight line across the entire bulkhead width. Since the deck is curved slightly, the beams are not a straight line and we need to maintain that curve as best we can when we make the cuts. I will use my Dremel and the Dremel stand to trim the gun deck levels from each of the bulkheads. I am thinking, though, that I will not fully remove the spar deck beam supports until after the bulkheads are fixed in place on the bulkhead former. That update will be provided in my next build log entry. So, not much of an update on my Constitution, but I had enough notes written on what had been done so far that I thought I’d get it into the build log. I appreciate those who are following this and providing support, likes, comments and criticisms.

It was probably just an incorrect choice of words, Peter, but I would add to all this discussion that there is nothing temporary about the pins. They are placed in the channels and then marked where they hit the hull, holes drilled, adhesive applied, and channel pressed against the hull until secure. I have used this method not only on small pieces placed on decks or rails like bitts and cleats, but also on vertical placements such as these channels, mast cleats, etc... especially anything that will have any stress placed on it like rigging. For fittings with single pins, I will normally just use a 0.83mm or smaller brass rod, but for larger fittings like these channels that might require two pins for accurate placement, instead of brass rods, I will use nails that I have cut the heads off, fixing that end into the channels and then carefully using the pointy ends of the two nails to help mark on the hull where the holes for insertion need to be made. This process has worked well for me. 👍

Ahhh, perfect! Thanks, Gary!

Don't remember seeing this option previously. When looking at build logs, there is a small button in the upper right corner of a person's signature page to either hide that individual's signature section or ALL signatures. On some folks' signature pages, that might be a nice feature to click on. I can especially see a value if you want to do a copy/paste of someone's build log into something like a Word document, but don't need the signature details, and that saves you from deleting those areas in the actual Word doc. The follow-up question, though, would be... is there a way to unhide someone's signature if you decide you want to see them again? Not sure I saw that ability when I hid someone's signature section to test this. Thanks for continuing to make MSW better! 🏆🏆🏆