Gregory

There are some good references in the Cheerful logs. I can't get to them right now, but will dig up something later if you don't beat me to it...

FWIW Chuck did include scuppers on Cheerful; Aft, as shown in the painting above ( if those are scuppers ) wouldn't make much sense. If I remember correctly, from some of the Cheerful logs, some builders chose not to model them. I have seen several contemporary models that did not show them either. I think it was one of those things that didn't show up on contemporary line drawings because they were taken for granted.

I would start off by Googling English Galleon Plans and looking at the images. You will have to sort out what kind of costs, if any, you might incur. You will see many options including images where you might be able to infer the run of the decks. If you are not that concerned about historical or architectural accuracy, then what you can infer from these drawings, along with the lines you have, you should be able to come up with the basis for a nice model.

The decks are not shown in those drawings, so you would need another source to provide that information. When you say " false keel " are you referring to the center longitudinal piece of a plank on bulkhead model? To establish the slots, you will first have to establish the deck/s ...

While this may be true, I think it makes for a more interesting model.

Did you see Kurt's answer above? I really don't have any idea.. I was just trying to find the kerf you were looking for.

I think Chuck was asking about your other parameters- diameter, arbor, etc. However, I suspect you have that covered and are just trying to zero in on the kerf. Malco has some 1/32 blades called Plain Metal Slitting saws.

What OS are you using? Windows ?

I get my blades from Malco Saw . The .03 is .762 mm They have a 1/2" arbor, so you have to make an adapter or get the one from Micromark. I have not had any problem with the .03 blade over heating and warping, with stock 6mm or less. The .02 can be a problem except with very thin stuff. It's good for very shallow grooves.

Well, that single screw, holding the fence to the sliding block might be a problem. 😉

Thanks for the explanation.. I really wasn't understanding from an earlier post what a zero clearance insert had to do with tear out.

The Dado effect for the Proxxon saw is a separate issue from the discussion of the sled. as well as a separate issue of Byrnes vs Proxxon. You would manage your insert just as you would for different width blades.. The warping washers are just another option to get a wider cut vs stacking blades or using wider blades. I can't even say it is something I would use, but I don't know why it wouldn't serve it's purpose if it is what you want to accomplish with one of these doll house saws..

Right. "Wobble" makes it sound like the blade is loose, which is not the case. The washers are thicker in one area, causing the cut of the blade to wobble laterally.. I don't know why it wouldn't be square. Maybe you could explain.

Have you seen what MicroMark calls a Dado Cutting System for their tilt arbor saw? Just some "Specially-designed" washers that make the blade wobble. Seems it would be pretty easy to make your own. Could be useful for gratings or other projects.

I have to admit my lack of expertise and ask for an example of when the sliding table is the best way to use the saw?

Great low cost option. It reminded me I bought a sled for my old Microlux, that I need to see if I can find.

Video not working for me. Anyone else?

The 1/8 shank ones are carbide. The carbide ones break very easily, but work well if one is careful.

I don't anticipate doing any work that can't be done with the 1/8 shank micro drills, and I have them at least as small as #81.

I have found the listed specs for all kinds of Chinese stuff to be unreliable. Generally, they are not catering to a market that cares about that kind of accuracy. Here is a close up of my chuck. I think the appearance of that opening is deceptive. It's certainly smaller than 1/32. Here are the smallest bits I have. Of course, the 2 with the 1/8 shank are not an issue. I don't have any decent calipers right now, but the bit on the bottom right is a little smaller than 24 gauge wire. ( .028" ) Here it is chucked up. Here are a few holes in some plywood with the bit above. The piece wasn't clamped , so there may have been some micro-movement. I'm looking froward to using this on a project.

I share your concern, however as I noted the power draw at 24V is only 17W at 24 volts, so for short term I think it will be OK. I'm more inclined to get a more robust DC supply and use something like this: DC to DC Step Down Power Supply

It just occurred to me that a picture with my hand in it would give a much better perspective of size. Now you know why I never made it as a " Hand Model " ..

I just posted my first impressions of the machine I mentioned above. Mini Bench Drill Press I haven't had time to do any real work with it.. I will try to follow up soon.

Ron Burns Topic about a mini drill press got me interested in looking for something to replace my Dremel version which leaves a lot to be desired. I went ahead with this one from Amazon which gives me the option of returning it hassle free. It's listing now for $69.99. There are several different vendors selling what appears to be identical machines, at different prices, with various accessory packages and minor construction differences. Here is an illustration showing the dimensions. The head vertical travel is about 1 & 3/4 inches, which is plenty for my purposes. The head can be swung from side to side using some lock down screws, which I will discuss further later on. I think the size is going to be great for the modeling environment. A much smaller footprint than my old Dremel set-up. Here is mine with everything that was in the box. I put the 3/8 inch drill there to give a little perspective to the size. It weighs in at 3.6 LB. (The product listing says 4.8 LB, but maybe that was with everything in the box plus the box ) Materials and workmanship appear 1st rate. Shafts and head parts appear to be stainless steel, but the listing says something about the shafts being chrome plated something. I guess the head parts could be aluminum, but it feels heavier than what I would expect for aluminum. Base is aluminum with a very smooth finish. No rough edges or burrs on any of the parts. No detectable play where it matters, so securing the work piece seems to be the main concern here. I'm exploring some vise options. The main challenge will be getting a decent vise that will work in the available space. The ones I am looking at will cost as much or more than the drill press itself. The red arrows point to the swivel lock screws. The bottom one has a lever that is not shown in the Amazon illustrations. It makes for easier adjustments, however the upper screw requires an allen wrench, which I feel is somewhat inconvenient. They do provide a long screw with a knob on the end that I think may replace the hex head screw. I don't anticipate using the swivel feature very much, but it would be important for someone who needs a bigger space than the table provides for the workpiece. The blue arrow points to the travel limit adjustment screw. Here is where I would want something more convenient to use. I will be adding a longer screw with some kind of knob on the end for this adjustment. The power supply says the DC out is up to 120 W at 5 A. It is adjustable across a range of 12 to 24 volts. Using an in-line watt meter I found the drill was pulling 10 W 0.19A at 12 v and 17 W 0.27A at 24v, so the power supply should be more than adequate at even half the rated specs. So, what happened when I powered it up? I was very pleasantly surprised. It is very quiet with no vibration that I can detect from 12 to 24V. The specs on this at Amazon say 450RPM. I don't have any way to measure it, but that seems low, even at 12 V. The same machine under other vendors say 7000. That number seems doubtfully high. The label on the motor is all Chinese, but there is a number - 1750 - 3500, so that would seem more realistic for motor RPM. The pulley arrangement looks to be a 2 to 1 reduction so that would be 875 to 1750 at the chuck. I anticipate doing most of my work at 12V, but I'm ready to learn about where higher RPM becomes useful. That all said, the torque seems to be very high. At 12 volts, I couldn't manage to stop the spindle with my fingers. There was starting to be pain involved, and I didn't want to push it. Maybe some good work gloves would make a difference, but I will leave that experiment for someone else. How does it perform workwise? I haven't got that far yet, but should be experimenting with different bits and materials in the next few days. Meanwhile, I wanted to get this first impression out there for those who are interested. I think one could spend a lot more than $70 and not get this level of quality. That said, there can always be quality control issues, and some may have higher standards than I do, so I wouldn't buy it without a generous return policy.

Funny you should mention that. Ron's little gadget got me interested in getting something to replace the miserable Dremel excuse for a drill press. I found the one you are looking at on Amazon. The one in the OP looked really well made but appeared to have some limitations, the main one being a depth limiting mechanism. I haven't unboxed the thing yet, but might get around to it today and will report back. P.S. The information description our Chinese friends come up with can be amusing. There seems to be some sort of competition to come up with the most words, regardless if makes any sense to more experienced users. Here is a little snip: " .....also for home use, such as DIY or installing furniture. " Right! That has got to be the main reason I bought this..😁