Gregory

If you haven’t finished shopping yet, make sure you look towards the bottom of the “specialty block “ listings, and check out the boxwood build yourself deadeyes. There’s nothing else out there to compare.

Not as easily obtainable . There may be some on HIS Model. You can look on eBay, but the source will be China from questionable vendors who also deal in pirated kits. Syren also has the best prices.

Once you get them laced up, I don’t think it’s that noticeable. It’s really a matter of what makes you happy. Those outside the modeling community would never notice unless you pointed it out. Most kits lack a lot of accurate detail. If you make the deadeyes perfect, what about all the other detail?

Having bought a lot of kits over the years, I don’t recall the deadeyes ever being consistent, except for the metal ones from BlueJacket. This was true of blocks also. 3D Printing has really changed the game.

What are you calling "backwards"? Facing the ladder or back to the ladder?

I’ve seen them on contemporary models without hand rails. I assume they held on to the sides or the back of the rungs as needed. These are men who had no problem scrambling around in the rigging on a rolling ship.

Good catch.. I didn't realize he sold those.

Joe ( Modelers SawMill ) will not have those dimensions at the WEB site, but send him an email with your needs, and chances are he will do a custom job for you.

I have never heard that explanation before. In this discussion: Question on use of crowsfeet on ship rigged vessels - Masting, rigging and sails - Model Ship World™ It is suggested that " ..Crowsfeet were designed to prevent the foot of the fore and main topsails from getting caught under the tops. " That is what I have always understood their purpose to be. This image from another discussion, shows how it was rigged. Here is another post that shows a little more detail of how it was rigged. https://modelshipworld.com/topic/2293-rattlesnake-by-jsgerson-finished-mamoli-164-using-robert-hunt’s-practicum/?do=findComment&comment=333009

When all is said and done, I would agree that this is the way to go.

I think you have a very valid point. For me it’s more of the idea of having it if I need it. I really don’t use it very often. If you can use it for some light milling it’s another plus.

There is a keyless chuck for the MF70 I have found it to be convenient for the tools it supports. 1/64 - 1/8 Shanks.

I have the Proxxon MF70, while a great little mill, it is not very efficient as a drill press. I reviewed a press I got on Amazon, which has turned out to be very satisfactory. I cover a lot of concerns and questions in my review. Mini Bench Drill Press - Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment - Model Ship World™ There was a lot of discussion about this and that, and in the end the the major additions/changes I made was replace the post with a longer one to get more clearance for the head, and I'm using it with a little combination rotary table/X-y which is great for milling at a modeling level. You may have to skip through some of the clutter in the topic to see what I am able to do with it, and how nice a little machine it is. I put this all together for about $140... The link for the press in my review is no longer active but this one looks like the same machine. Mini Drill Press, For a few dollars more. I would pretty much ignore the accessories they bundle with these presses, so don't pay more for them, but make sure you get the power supply. If I can provide any more information, please let me know. You can see the foot-print is relatively small for all the work you can do with this. P.S. I just noticed you mentioned using the Proxxon X-Y add-on. I think it would be great with this press. I have one of these: Multifunction Worktable Milling Working Cross Table It is not as well built as the Proxxon but is quite adequate for the work I do with wood. I bought a vise Intended for the MF70 that cost as much as the Proxxon X-Y table. Proxxon 24260 Precision machine vise

I don't believe Fusion allows .DXF export with the free version. It does allow several different formats that might be convertible with another app. I have used some online .OBJ to .SVG tools that are free.

As you mentioned, diluted white glue is commonly used to get model rope to lay realistically. I would use about 75% water myself. If you scroll through " Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings " You should see several topics on brass blackening. Here is the search results using the term " blackening" Showing results for 'blackening' in content posted in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings. - Model Ship World™

"Twist" Or skew? I'm not saying there is no warping, but the perspective distorts the actual amount. It may be so subtle as to not be something to worry about with regard to the final presentation of the model.

The stem is not square to the table or the camera. The perspective is skewed. I don't see any reference on the transom to show me where the problem lies

If the hull really is twisted, (bent, warped ) by a noticeable amount, the only resolution would be to do it over. The problem is not really that apparent to me from the image above. On what plane is the hull " twisted" ? The stem is not square to the work table, or perpendicular to the line of sight. A straight on view where the deck is visible might be provide more information. What do you see if you sight along the keel itself? Do you have an image like that above, but with the hull inverted?

I just bought a used copy on eBay for $10... Long overdue addition to my library. It looks like the new revised edition is a few dollars more, but the info about the revised edition says its about finishes an adhesives, and I am already fairly locked in on my preferences in that regard.

Oh, wow! I just learned more than I ever knew about wood just by reading the free sample on Amazon.

The wood for the strips and the laser cut parts could have come from different trees. There may be different trees represented just among the strips, or at the least different parts of one tree. The only reasonable assumptions you can make about the color variation with age, among several pieces of wood, is when you know it was milled from the same stock.

A search for "black prince" does return one build log . If you have any specific questions, I'm sure someone will try to help.

If that information is not included in the plans they do not appear to be very useful for building a model ship. Have you considered getting a kit? The contents of a kit will give you a good idea of what is required in the way of plans, material and instructions to build a model, even if you decide to go ahead with a scratch project. You might take a look at some of the kit reviews here to see what is required to build a ship model. Here is a log where James builds the prototype for HMS Harpy, a Vanguard kit. It will give you a good idea of what materials are needed even if you make the parts yourself. You can also see how the plans and instructions show how things should look.

The plans do not show anything? Usually, with a POB model there are instructions for 'stepping' the masts and bowsprit. Without seeing your drawings it would be difficult to suggest anything. You could look at just about any kit build log to see how it is accomplished. There is usually an opening in the deck and some type of cut-out in the backbone to locate the masts in their proper position.

It would still be interesting to know a build that you are trying to emulate. The Lynx is an American built Schooner. You might look at builds like Niagara or Prince de Neufchatel.