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Gregory

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Everything posted by Gregory

  1. I am certainly no rivet counter. I'm more of a " what looks good, is good" modeler. Too many "accurate " details can look cluttered and detract from the fine detail of model like yours. You are the captain of your ship, just make sure the rigging will work.
  2. There have been several errors pointed out in this book, and I am in no position to critique it with any expertise, however, as I have pointed out before , Petersson is an artist and not a rigging authority. He drew what he found on a model with no apparent reference checking. I could be wrong but I have to believe what looks like a stay on top of that metal strap has to be wrong compared to actual practice. Who knows why the model builder did it that way.
  3. FWIW, I have found that wrapping wire around a drill bit is the best way to get consistent size eyebolts, rings and hooks.
  4. I’ve found that it’s easy to snap off the back end of the scalpel blade so it fits the #11 handle.
  5. Great to have you back. I like Petersson’s book, but it has it’s critics, keeping in mind he copied what he saw on a model. I don’t think you can go wrong with Chuck’s Cheerful as a guide. You can download the instructions on Chuck’s Syren Ship Model site. Chuck’s and Glenn Barlow’s Cheerful build logs are great “go-to’s”. You could also do well to look at Thukydides Alert.
  6. You might also consider Cornwall Model Boats. Their shipping charges to US are surprisingly competitive with US shops, and their pricing on European kits are discounted considerably compared to US prices.
  7. Well, they have a presence on the forum.. You could ask them. Artesania Latina - Model Ship World™ OcCre - Model Ship World™
  8. Interesting. I posted a topic a while back about using tape for O clearance with my FET and drew some criticism. However, I have continued using it, and find it very effective. It’s'not like we are sawing 2x4’s on a 10” table saw.
  9. With all the excellent work you are doing with Speedy, I have to believe some sail making is in your future. Take a look at what DrPr is doing with Albatros.
  10. I mainly use CA, so I don't think I have any innovative clamping ideas beyond what can be found here. The main challenge is clamping to a curved surface and not marking the wood. Once you solve your clamping challenge you might consider the Titebond Speedset glue. It only needs about 15 minutes clamping time. I have had good results with it.
  11. You might look at Thukydides log for Perseus. He is doing a lot of research regarding the stem. (sorry I can’t post a link right now)
  12. Then that makes it difficult for anyone to provide advice about how it should be done with regard to common/actual practice. It’s not just a matter of historical accuracy it’s also a matter how the rigging works efficiently for the control of the sails and the men handling the ropes. The basic principles haven’t changed for hundreds of years.
  13. Determining how the falls were arranged at the bitts is a moot point if that is not where they should be. Referring to what TBlack said above regarding bowlines, clews and sheets , I’m pretty sure the bowlines ran forward to the bowsprit then back to the forecastle area. The sheets rove through sheaves In the bulwarks then to kevels or cleats on the bulwarks. I’ll have to re-visit the clews.
  14. Thanks for replying. Well, Lees is a little complicated, or at least a little longwinded for me to quote everything here. I would like to see what others have to say before I get too deep into quoting Lees. My cursory reading doesn't show as may lines going to the bitts as I see here. I noticed in looking at the pictures of the prototype It doesn't appear there are as many lines leading down to the bitts as in the images up above. Your plan view appears to have fewer lines also.
  15. Can you name some of these lines? No one has bothered to do this so far. With that information we might be able to find out more about how they should be rigged.
  16. I'm still curious as to what some of those lines are. I can't imagine a lot of working lines wrapped around the bitts like that, regardless of where the extra rope would lay.
  17. It would be interesting to know what some of those lines are and what something like Lees' has to say about them.
  18. What are the notable differences?
  19. For modeling, I think it has a lot to do with the look you are going for, with nice proportions rather than precise measurements. A lot of modelers may not have the tools or desire to make their own, so it is good to be able find an acceptable source. Some of these are not like the others. The pins on the left are from Falkonet while the ones on the right are typical kit pins and what you find in a lot of retail outlets. The kit pins can be chucked up in a Dremel and made a lot better, but I have found that getting uniformity can be a challenge.
  20. Since someone brought it up: Here is what Longridge drew in " The Anatomy of Nelson's Ships ".. Note the 'Note'.. P.S. I believe the drawing is by George F. Campbell
  21. I really like the look of the new Syren blocks, but I have a lot of the old wood ones
  22. I don't' think you can go wrong by looking at Chuck's Cheerful. Look through the log for more details. Also, all of the Cheerful rigging is available on the Syren Web site. Revenue Cutter Cheerful 1806 Another great log is from Thukydides He has posted an index to his build so it is easy to find the various steps. PS I just noticed Alert shrouds don't use the cross trees and trestle trees. So you should feel confident following Goodwin and Thukydides.
  23. You and me both. But look at him as the teacher and not the competition. It might help, but they had no more to go on than the drawing I posted above. Just give it your bet shot, you are doing great so far.
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