Gregory

Keep in mind the Confederacy kit is 1:64 while the Winchelsea is 1:48.

While I agree with this, I found the Dremel branded one to be very problematic with a lot of play in it that I could never work around. I settled on a small drill press that is working well so far.

The MicroMark disk sander looks like it should be comparable to the Proxxon for about $100 less. I've been getting by with a bigger benchtop sander, but I'm considering getting this one.

It looks more like a mass produced decorator model rather than a kit.

Hey everyone, I deleted my “wanna-be” comment. I realize it didn’t convey the message I intended. This kit is certainly more of a challenge than I want to undertake. I hope we get to see a successful build.

Well?

Google for a .HEIC converter. There are free ones out there. Is your PC Windows? You can open in Windows photo viewer and save as .jpg.

I see the same issue on Toni's log. She doesn't mention it. I think you should be able to just forge ahead without doing any trimming, without affecting the final outcome. But of course that is up to you. Looking ahead in her log, I still see a small deviation there at 4. So I think you will be good.

Keep in mind that construction plans such as the contemporary drawings from the NMM never have rigging plans. Any rigging drawings are done after the fact based on knowledge of contemporary rigging practices. Riggers didn't use "plans". They knew what they were doing. Any three masted ship with similar sail plans from the time frame of Triton would have bee rigged the same. Rigging Period Ship Models: by Lennarth Petersson covers the detailed rigging, line by line, of a contemporary model of HMS Melampus (1785). Every rope on the model is covered in drawings like this. The modeler should keep in mind that this is based on a model so there could be some minor differences from actual practice, but there would have been differences from actual ship to ship comparisons,. The basic principles would have been the same because the mechanics of controlling a square rig were well established and varied little over several hundred years. Of course there were changes in some details but these are well documented in references like The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War, 1625-1860 by James Lees. The dimensions of the masts and spars can be derived from various sources including Lees'.

Look under your account settings/notifications. There is an option to change how and when you are notified.

As mentioned, Mamoli went out of business but Dusek has re-released most of their kits. Do you know if you bought the Dusek kit, or is it an old Mamoli version. The new Dusek kit looks like this image.

Were the hand pumps a French thing, or a re-fit.

You might take a look here: As for the size of ratlines, smaller is better. I posted this in another ratline discussion. ..at 1:100 scale an accurate number would be .005 " or .127mm. The best fit you will get will be some sort of sewing thread.

Can you show a marked up drawing indicating where you want a " D " shape?

Looking forward to seeing your work on this.. I know you are looking to get the planking thing down..

I would vote for melamine. I personally would not buy the Woodcraft product if I could not hold it in my hand. Do you have a local Woodcraft or Rockler? Sorry to belabor the point, but there is some of the ply mentioned above in 1/2" (12mm). I only see 12"x12" so that may not be a good working size. Have you considered doubling up some of the 1/4' using Titebond or similar? PS I see this: Baltic Birch Plywood 12 x 24 x 1/2 Inch ... As well as some other choices. Don't know how the price compares to Woodcraft. I think bigger sizes is where you will encounter warping issues.

Hi Dave, Just browsing and noticed your comments about plywood. I have been using this stuff from Amazon, and it is the best plywood I have ever used, while costing a fraction of the "furniture grade" stuff available at places like Home Depot or Midwest. Thick Basswood Sheets for Crafts Unfinished Plywood Sheets It's available in a variety of dimensions and quantity. It says 'Basswood' and I believe the very thin outer layers are basswood. For your purposes, a few coats of varnish may be in order.

The main problem I see is that the piece that holds the gammoning slot probably would not have provided the kind of support/strength required for that function. But as you alluded to, for modeling purposes, it wouldn't be visible with all the head gear in place. Here is the the actual NMM drawing. Since this was not a construction drawing, any number of details could be missing.

Good research. It may be one of those things that ship builders took for granted and just didn't document all that well.. This is the way Hahn drew the stem on Rattlesnake , though it doesn't show this much detail on the NMM drawings. I have seen it modeled a time or two in this manner, but there is something very wrong here. Any guesses?

I have to back off on this. I have had good results with the felt buffing on other wood. It has a polishing effect when used with Wipe -On poly.. However, I just tried it on some basswood strip, and it didn't have the effect I hoped for.. Rubbing briskly with some microfiber cloth did seem to have a good effect.

I have found that buffing basswood with felt takes care of fuzz. I use the big felt disks that come with Dremel. Buffing with microfiber might work as well, but I stick with the felt.

You might consider posting in “ ..Metal Work or Deck furniture, guns, boats, etc. “, and getting more help for casting..

Could be useful. I see similar products on Amazon as low as $38.

Stem pieces by laser. My hat’s off to the ones who can cut by hand. If I didn’t have the laser I would resign myself to kits…

Now for a bit of my build process. I'm cutting the skeleton out of this 6mm Plywood purchased from Amazon. Its listed as 'basswood' plywood, and the outer layers look as good as any basswood I have seen. Those outer basswood layers are paper thin though, if that would make any difference for a project. The product as a whole is as good or better than any plywood I have ever used. It measures consistently a hair over 6mm and a hair under 1/4". I have not been able to get decent dimensioned plywood from sources like Home Depot for some time now. The last 1/4" plywood I bought from Home depot measured 5.2mm - closer to 3/16 than 1/4. The Amazon stuff is a fraction of the cost of sanded plywood at Home Depot. I cut the stem out of 1/4" Cherry that I thickness sanded to match the ~6mm ply. I built it up out of 5 pieces. This shows a little form I used to glue and clamp up the Stem to the rabet strip on the backbone. The backbone is made of three pieces, and this shows how it is easier to hold, sand and shape the stem before the three pieces are glued together. The stem, pretty much finished with a coat of WOP. I will be applying any number of coats as the build progresses. I use very thin WOP to get a lot of penetration to seal the wood. This is the first dry fit of the bulkheads and backbone. I managed a very tight fit with the slots. Inserting, then removing the bulkheads proved to be somewhat difficult, as I didn't have much more clearance than the thickness of the laser char. Any squaring when gluing is almost unnecessary, but I will still be taking that important step. The center of the deck on the bulkheads is flush with the backbone except for the small difference in slope from front to back. Close up of fit. Could have used a little tighter fit to the rabet on the foremost frames, but that will shim up easily. Looking forward from station 12. A piece of cord to show the run of the deck before any fairing has been done. There will be bow and stern fillers to get a good shape in those areas. This left me quite satisfied with my drafting efforts. A little contribution to the " Tips & Tricks " department. I know that Legos are popular as squaring tools, but I recently discovered these little game/puzzle pieces. I feel they give you a little more to work with than Legos do. Very inexpensive . 64 Pieces were $10. Another view of bulkhead squaring. Should be following up soon with filler placement and fairing.