HOLIDAY DONATION DRIVE - SUPPORT MSW - DO YOUR PART TO KEEP THIS GREAT FORUM GOING! (Only 20 donations so far - C'mon guys!)
×
OllieS
-
Posts
126 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by OllieS
-
I am trying to decide whether the mizzen mast on my Revenge should have a small lanteen sail above the large lanteen sail. The mast is set up with a top so there is certainly room for one (unlike the bonaventure) but various prints seem to show it on slightly later galleons and in the Kirsch book Galleon but not on earlier Elizabethan ships like the Revenge. So it looks like it wasn't normally used and if it existed then the spar was on the deck not aloft. I think the Amati Revenge does have this spar fitted but I'm not sure I want to follow that. Any help on this would be appreciated
-
To add to this: I have been making my version of the OcCre Revenge for about a year. I am now fitting shrouds to tops on unstepped masts, in the sense that bits of thread now hang there. Along with the breast stays and the lift blocks tied to the mast (as was the fashion back then). Everything is nicely tamped down and sits tightly in the top with straggley bits below. The point being that everyone assumes that if you're building a tiny boat that makes you a tiny boatbuilder. This is not the case; as a modeller you have the flexibility to make life easier. Once I have the masts pretty much finished they will be set and stayed. As part of that ongoing experiment the sails will then be bent to yards and then the yards fitted. Most of the running rigging will then be set. Finally the shrouds will be set. The point of doing this is you get an open deck to rig; then the shrouds get in the way. Too much for a comment, sorry!
-
Your careful style means a great future I would say. With your precision, thinking outside the box will add a great deal so you will want to read around when you feel like it. Probably the next one...
-
Staining
OllieS replied to Eindride's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
-
Staining
OllieS replied to Eindride's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
A paint or oil finish is a surface application whereas a stain penetrates the wood, so you can stain and gently sand when dry etc. I use stain because I like the natural grain effect. It's not to scale but MBMR wins every time Glued wood will not take a stain so I always stain first and touch up with a similar tone of paint. Personally I would steer clear of oil or anything oil based unless you use nothing else. As to scaled painting: thin thin thin. -
I just wanted to give a thumbs up to OcCre for their great after sales service. After 13 months I am getting to the mast stage on my Revenge and realised that I was short on several dowels. I filled in their online parts form on 29th June and a poster tube with half a dozen dowels was delivered today at no cost to me.
-
The Cala Esmaralda and its back story are almost certainly fictional. This model is actually based on the schooner Santa Eulalia: https://www.mmb.cat/en/schooner-santa-eulalia/ So maybe you could find the information directly (!) There are also books available at the museum about the ship and its restorastion. Also, in my opinion, in a model the width of the planking is a lot more noticeable than the plank lengths. 5mm is the stock item not the scaled choice.
-
Just a guess, but I would say that those blocks would be attached to the cap and not the upper mast because otherwise you would have a real problem if that mast ever needed to be replaced. Which they did.
- 426 replies
-
- 3
-
-
- Vanguard Models
- Sphinx
- (and 1 more)
-
Full scale rope approximates to a cylinder much better than thread does. In a model, I would guess that the difference between different weights of line would be more important than the absolute circumference of them.
-
Plastic or Wood models? Your Favorite?
OllieS replied to Bill97's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Just had a look at the Occre site where instructions are downloadable. They get around the very bluff bow with some solid wood at the prow, which might be a comfort. I don't know about other kits but personally I would be tempted by Caldercraft. Either way I absolutely recommend getting a copy of the anatomy of the ship book for the Endeavour. There are plenty second hand, but shop around because the price varies wildly. Then you could start a semi-scratch adventure by trying to follow the book using a kit as a basis. Almost forgot.. I would go for a double planked model every time as there is more room for error. -
Plastic or Wood models? Your Favorite?
OllieS replied to Bill97's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
The incompetent horror of a plastic childhood is abhorrent to me now and I don't expect that to change. (incompetant middle age is comfortably normal) That said the great thing about wood is that you are halfway to scratchbuilding whatever you need. I have seen youtube modellers explaining that they had to wait for a (plastic) part. Wood modellers do not have that problem, if I break or lose something I sigh and pick up a file etc, the only thing I've lost is time. I also have the sense that wooden ships are inherently made of wood; and steel ships of some modern steel substitute which can't be wood because that would be a fake somehow. -
Time is the biggest factor. A small model is a few months a large one maybe years. If you are looking for a result (everybody is at the start); then go as modest as is possible for something you wish to make. Generally, don't ignore Occre; they have a good range ofreasonably priced kits and very good support with their youtube channel.
-
I started with a pin pusher until I realised that a simple pair of hobby pliers was so much more controllable. You just hold the pin sideways in the jaws and gently push in the direction of the pin.
-
If you are truly thrilled by the SoS then do that one. If not then go to Vanguard Models and choose a level that you are comfortable with there. Perfect for the non-basher or scratcher I think.
-
I found this book via MSW: It is privately printed (2011) which explains the wonderfully uncommercial title. It is however a very well written and generally useful book for anyone who is trying to move on from an out-of-the-box kit build. It can of course be used as an enhanced set of instructions for the Sherbourne; but it is equally valid as a good read with lots of nice photos and a source of useful tips for any ship modeller. There is an associated website with some downloads from the book: https://www.grbsolutions.co.uk and a contact email which is how I got hold of my copy.
- 2 replies
-
- 8
-
-
-
- caldercraft
- Sherbourne
- (and 1 more)
-
If you mean the mast on a plan for you to copy then that is the mast as it is including the part below the deck. i.e. you just copy the picture and use that.
-
Plastic or Wood models? Your Favorite?
OllieS replied to Bill97's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
One thing that as far as I can see nobody has made much of is how time consuming a wooden kit build is. This is not a complaint, the hobby is better for it I think. My first (covid lockdown) model took me 3 months, because I was determined to reach the finish line (I was still working as normal I was just curtailed in my old hobbies). The second took 18 months because I began to understand that the journey is the hobby and I bought a book to help make improvements.The most recent was started in June last year and will not be finished this June...it was a simpler build than the second ('about a year!') ...until I focussed on easy improvements. So, any kit turned into something good will be 500 hours and the big one more like 2000+ I'm sure plastic modellers build up a stash of future projects and so do wooden ones. Watch out for planned decades! -
Standing rigging page 95 running rigging 120/121 deckplan. No deck plan for the standing but a combination of the book plan, kit plan and common sense was enough for my Occre Beagle with its Marquardt book. Good luck!
-
Possibly the Occre Polaris. There is a series of 'how to' on their youtube channel which is really helpful.
-
Okay I'm no expert at all so please correct me; but the driver is also called the spanker so that triangular sail would be the spanker topsail. The second rope you mention makes sense when you know is called a downhauler the other being the halyard. The lower ropes are sheets and tack (s) in the normal way just like a square sail. Somebody knowledgable will tell you about the blocks but using what you happen to have also makes sense. By the way those gunports don't look usable to me; I would probably make some nice stained wooden ones. I am a fan of Occre but their fittings let them down badly: they range from poor to unusable I think.
-
How an 18th Century Sailing Battleship Works
OllieS replied to Tossedman's topic in Nautical/Naval History
WhenI went round Victory last Summer is was actually quite stuffy in the hold and orlop so the air ducts being a modernish improvement for the benefit of the public makes sense to me. No windows this far down for some unfathomable reason -
How an 18th Century Sailing Battleship Works
OllieS replied to Tossedman's topic in Nautical/Naval History
This is great! Pretty much everything you need for general knowledge in 25 minutes. -
I agree with everything but in particular points 3 and 4. That's my hobby! The only thing I would add is that if you happen to be making a kit that there is a book about that will really enhance the whole thing for you.
Our Emblem ®
