OllieS

Available on iplayer series 10 episode 1

One thing to consider is how much time you want to spend doing this. Even a simpler model is hundreds of hours, a desirable model like the Victory or the Cutty Sark would be well over 1000.

Occre is a good place to start (I am now on my third one).

For the most help in making an excellent model you could consider one of the Vanguard fishing boats.

I couldn't find a difference either, some strips have a sort of barred horizontal pattern but it is very variable: it's a less or more thing rather than yes or no. I ended up using the least barred for the deck which was just stained and the others for everything else where it would be less obvious.

By the way the OcCre Beagle has a lot of details and a lot of scope for (easy) improvements. It is an excellent choice!

I have used a black fine liner pen .1mm

You just lightly dab to make the smallest of marks. And it is quick and easy, 'dab dab dab dab' where two planks meet.

To me this looks fine but I don't actually know how accurate an approximation it is.

I also worry about the width of planks, the standard 5mm strip seems too wide to me and I have experimented with cutting them in half.

7 minutes ago, Srenner said:

I know... I can use my hands and also pen and paper to achieve a result plus minus maybe 0.5 to 1mm

 

Maybe I can just start with illustrator and see how that goes

 

 

It's your hobby, whatever you want it to be.

However a sanding block is good for .1mm or less.

I'll leave you to it

Just an opinion..

A software project is its own abition or hobby.

Use your eyes and hands to just build it.

And build better with the next one.

...And try not to buy too many other kits in the meantime

I think maybe you have misunderstood that this kit hobby is just approximate,  really don't worry too much. Try to flatten the keel: a little weight overnight. Then build anyway. It is a small deviation that you can easily correct later particularly with two plankings. I had a much worse distortion in another OcCre kit which I noticed when I placed the deck. And I simply forgot, I put it on a things to sort out list.

Really you wouldn't notice it in the finished model.

The level of precision you think is required does exist and you may get there, but most don't and they live happily anyway

There is no thumbs down option on comments and questions on MSW.

It's that kind of place.

Don't disregard OcCre. They're my first three builds and an excellent starting point.

I found this very useful tip to reference a post in another topic:

how to refer to a post

There are instructions on how to link to any page or site. The useful extra, specific to msw is further down.

I get around the problem by using shorter planks. Using Sappelli for the second planking on my OcCre revenge (I have not reached the modelling level of replacing everything in a kit yet ) I cut the strips into 7.5 cm lengths which is 1/8 of a strip which scales to 18 feet. 

Using contact glue you can then make a close enough fit to the next row of planks adjusting the cut ends slightly to fit. Also tapering where needed.

In effect you can make Jaager's S shaped plank out of several short sections even though you don't have the width to cut the shape out of one plank.

It looks like this

12 hours ago, Kevin said:

you mean like this?

HMHS Britannic by Kevin - Based on Trumpeter 1/200 Titanic - Started September 2022 - Page 5 - - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1901 - Present Day - Model Ship World™

 

Yes like that would be fine; better would be using a quote in the same way as when you reply to something within a topic. Just like this reply.

...so much easier just to ask: Is there an easy way to reference a topic within another topic? So the reader can click on it if they feel the need.

I want to know because I would like to update a build log with references to other posts in other topics.

Wood to wood PVA is best; CA is convenient and not as strong. 

The good news is channels generally pull in the direction they are stuck in. ( Using the mechanical principle that rigging works  ).

Danish Oil is not something I would expect to be able to glue to at all, if I had to I would be epoxy and pins probably.

As far as the steps are concerned I would PVA and eyeball it.- If you can: I just had to reposition some posts I carelessly placed with my close work glasses on.

Might be worth pointing out that (gun blue) blackening works very well as a primer for any metal parts if you're not happy with the result.

There is a small channel on youtube that I like: modelkit stuff. Mostly plastic kits (several ships) but also a partial HMS Fly build.

This video on painting is worth a watch:

19 minutes ago, RossR said:

I am working on the rigging of my HMS Beagle from Occre. ... I am a little worried about whether there is enough pin on the bottom of the pin rail for the extra material.  

 

 

I use a simple cheat for this which makes life easier:

You don't use the pin like you would in real life, instead you thread the line through the hole in the pin board from the top. And again. Then fix it with the peg. This is then adjustable (and you will need to square everything up at the finish). When you are happy with everything you can then glue in the peg and trim the line. Finally fix a hank of line over the peg and set it in a realistic shape with glue and it looks fine. Nobody will see the difference.

I have to tell you that the OcCre pin diagram and the Anatomy of the Ship diagram are rather different (and there are more lines in reality than in the kit) so really don't worry too much, it will still look great  !

2 hours ago, druxey said:

With only 9% water in your isopropanol, the wood should not have changed dimension by much at all. If anything, water should have expanded the wood, not shrunk it! As you know, wood changes dimension far more across, not along the grain.

This is the explanation surely: the grooves expand more than the tongues because they are at right angles grainwise, so you just need to leave it to dry out maybe.

8 hours ago, Roger Pellett said:

A knot, particularly when the line is wet and under tension is almost impossible to untie.

 

Cleats, levels, and belaying pins are simple but ingenious devices that allow the hitch securing the line to be untied without releasing tension.  They also allow securing the bight of the line.

 

I, therefore, wonder what sort of knot or hitch was used to secure the bight of a long line to an open rail while still allowing Ir to be easily cast off under tension.

 

Roger

Well I don't know, a sailor or boy scout might . But there would have to be some simple solution to not having pin boards and belaying pins. The post or rail would certainly provide the robust fixing for a line under tension to work against in several distinct positions so it would be easy to choose the right line when you needed to.

My interest is limited to making a model that I'm happy with, so I will make something up at the time having decided not to fit the provided pin boards.

For example:

On 10/28/2022 at 11:40 PM, allanyed said:

Further to Marks post, many lines were simply belayed to rails and timberheads prior to pins being used.

A contemporary model at Preble Hall is below as one example

Allan

Thank you both Mark P and allanyed for your immediate and excellent responses. I have since found your more detailed posts on this subject.

This became a problem when I considered the belaying pins I got with my OcCre Revenge kit.

They scale to the adult human leg; so I was considering something in wire less than half that size, when I half remembered a comment which meant that they shouldn't be used at all.

When I read your replies, a light bulb lit over my head and the fog lifted.

I now think I understand the 'post and rail fences' (fore and aft) that dominated sailed ships up to the end of the sixteenth century:

They could be an 'Array' of belaying points that one could easily use in any situation.

As far as the Revenge is concerned, I now have to rebuild the OcCre version because I will need more belaying points i.e.. posts under  the mizzen deck taffrail. Hey ho, I will post it there. As and when.

There is a separate issue which has not been addressed, as far as I know, which is the evolution of the belaying pin into its modern form which is that sometime  (probably... 1600ish...) it becomes a removable object not just another belaying point.  I do wonder whether some of the confusion is because a fixed pin in a convenient position (like the prow) looks very much like its evolved cousin a tapered pin with a handle which you could remove in an emergency, or for convenience. By 1750 it was lauded, but  I lost that quote in the MSW sea.

Please can anyone tell me what the alternative to pln boards and belaying pins were in the 16th century?

Like cleats under the rails or something? 

KIts avoid this problem by simply ignoring it as far as I can tell.

For staining I use Colron: Light Oak; Dark Oak; Medium Georgian Oak plus others. Staining works well but can only be done effectively before gluing anything. Acrylic varnish after.

22 hours ago, James H said:

...As for an over-budget project, then that can't be any further from the truth. The money for this project's development was spent a decade ago with the initial prototype design and build. This is simply a follow up to ready the kit for release with new instructions. Amati's release schedule changed after the pandemic ravaged Italy and temporarily closed their operations. It's more important to them at the moment to work on things that can be released more quickly than the year to 18 months it will take me to do this for them. 

 

Please, no wild, inaccurate and scurrilous claims please. You're posting on a public forum. 

 

 

I apologize for annoying you with a casual remark, but it is often the case in any large scale project (a road; a bridge; a film etc) that is mystifyingly delayed that the reason is that the money isn't in place and everyone is waiting for a thumbs up from the decision maker. That's all. Not scurrilous just normal.

Having now looked through this thread I can see how annoying this whole thing is for you.

That said if you still have 12-18 months to run on this when you resume then everyone is jumping the gun by a couple of years and should leave you alone I think.

Presumably you have seen there is now a new release of the Santa Ana. How it compares to the original kit I couldn't say but it does have the strange lack of printed plans which is how things are at Artesania Latina these days. That's enough to put me off and I don't think I'm the only one.

18 minutes ago, mtaylor said:

Some go for long posts with text and many photos.  Others go for short.  Depends on the builder.  If playing "catch up" go for longer posts.  You'll get into a rhythm that you're comfortable with.  As for confusion... my normal state of affairs some days so don't feel bad.  

Another aspect is how comprehensive you want to be.

That is do you want to show everything so your hobby becomes 'building a build log' or do you want to just show the highlights?

If (like me) sharing is something you feel you should do but interupts your happy pastime (and breaks the spell somewhat) then 'landmarks of interest' is a way to go.

The provided rudder has the hinge points in the wrong place and doesn't match the photo-instructions. So I have to make one: 

The finished article: