Dan Vadas

I believe that the idea behind the design was to imitate the sails of yachts on Sydney Harbour.
 
Yeah I get that, but I was hoping they might have drawn in some texture. Like on the edges of the tiles for example.
 
Danny

This model is of the iconic Sydney Opera House. The kit is from Schreiber-Bogen, a German kit publisher. When finished it will measure 730mm x 470mm x 230mm :


 
My thoughts on the kit are that it is not printed as well as I'd hoped, with no "weathering" at all and fairly simplistic colouring. The card is of reasonable quality without being exceptional, and the instructions are fairly basic line drawings which are easy enough to follow. The design of construction could have been better, but it's workable.

 
On with it. I started the model 3 days ago, and have completed the base to the stage of adding the vertical sections. For bracing beneath the base a number of square sections are used, some of which are integral with the upper surface and others are free sections :



 
These pieces are ready for fitting to the main section :

 
Danny

This model is of the iconic Sydney Opera House. The kit is from Schreiber-Bogen, a German kit publisher. When finished it will measure 730mm x 470mm x 230mm :


 
My thoughts on the kit are that it is not printed as well as I'd hoped, with no "weathering" at all and fairly simplistic colouring. The card is of reasonable quality without being exceptional, and the instructions are fairly basic line drawings which are easy enough to follow. The design of construction could have been better, but it's workable.

 
On with it. I started the model 3 days ago, and have completed the base to the stage of adding the vertical sections. For bracing beneath the base a number of square sections are used, some of which are integral with the upper surface and others are free sections :



 
These pieces are ready for fitting to the main section :

 
Danny

I believe that the idea behind the design was to imitate the sails of yachts on Sydney Harbour.
 
Yeah I get that, but I was hoping they might have drawn in some texture. Like on the edges of the tiles for example.
 
Danny

This model is of the iconic Sydney Opera House. The kit is from Schreiber-Bogen, a German kit publisher. When finished it will measure 730mm x 470mm x 230mm :


 
My thoughts on the kit are that it is not printed as well as I'd hoped, with no "weathering" at all and fairly simplistic colouring. The card is of reasonable quality without being exceptional, and the instructions are fairly basic line drawings which are easy enough to follow. The design of construction could have been better, but it's workable.

 
On with it. I started the model 3 days ago, and have completed the base to the stage of adding the vertical sections. For bracing beneath the base a number of square sections are used, some of which are integral with the upper surface and others are free sections :



 
These pieces are ready for fitting to the main section :

 
Danny

The few architectural models that I constructed in college were done as in the manuals to be a pristine representation of the building when it's brand new.  Clients don't want to see the building that they plan on building and paying for in any kind of disrepair. 

Pretty typical quality, I think, for a Schreiber kit. I don't think that architectural models in general ever get much in the way of weathering.

Look forward to this build, Dan. Was just there last month and saw La Boheme. Awesome experience. I noted from the side that it looks a lot like a ship. Wonder if that's just me?

This model is of the iconic Sydney Opera House. The kit is from Schreiber-Bogen, a German kit publisher. When finished it will measure 730mm x 470mm x 230mm :


 
My thoughts on the kit are that it is not printed as well as I'd hoped, with no "weathering" at all and fairly simplistic colouring. The card is of reasonable quality without being exceptional, and the instructions are fairly basic line drawings which are easy enough to follow. The design of construction could have been better, but it's workable.

 
On with it. I started the model 3 days ago, and have completed the base to the stage of adding the vertical sections. For bracing beneath the base a number of square sections are used, some of which are integral with the upper surface and others are free sections :



 
These pieces are ready for fitting to the main section :

 
Danny

This model is of the iconic Sydney Opera House. The kit is from Schreiber-Bogen, a German kit publisher. When finished it will measure 730mm x 470mm x 230mm :


 
My thoughts on the kit are that it is not printed as well as I'd hoped, with no "weathering" at all and fairly simplistic colouring. The card is of reasonable quality without being exceptional, and the instructions are fairly basic line drawings which are easy enough to follow. The design of construction could have been better, but it's workable.

 
On with it. I started the model 3 days ago, and have completed the base to the stage of adding the vertical sections. For bracing beneath the base a number of square sections are used, some of which are integral with the upper surface and others are free sections :



 
These pieces are ready for fitting to the main section :

 
Danny

This model is of the iconic Sydney Opera House. The kit is from Schreiber-Bogen, a German kit publisher. When finished it will measure 730mm x 470mm x 230mm :


 
My thoughts on the kit are that it is not printed as well as I'd hoped, with no "weathering" at all and fairly simplistic colouring. The card is of reasonable quality without being exceptional, and the instructions are fairly basic line drawings which are easy enough to follow. The design of construction could have been better, but it's workable.

 
On with it. I started the model 3 days ago, and have completed the base to the stage of adding the vertical sections. For bracing beneath the base a number of square sections are used, some of which are integral with the upper surface and others are free sections :



 
These pieces are ready for fitting to the main section :

 
Danny

This model is of the iconic Sydney Opera House. The kit is from Schreiber-Bogen, a German kit publisher. When finished it will measure 730mm x 470mm x 230mm :


 
My thoughts on the kit are that it is not printed as well as I'd hoped, with no "weathering" at all and fairly simplistic colouring. The card is of reasonable quality without being exceptional, and the instructions are fairly basic line drawings which are easy enough to follow. The design of construction could have been better, but it's workable.

 
On with it. I started the model 3 days ago, and have completed the base to the stage of adding the vertical sections. For bracing beneath the base a number of square sections are used, some of which are integral with the upper surface and others are free sections :



 
These pieces are ready for fitting to the main section :

 
Danny

This model is of the iconic Sydney Opera House. The kit is from Schreiber-Bogen, a German kit publisher. When finished it will measure 730mm x 470mm x 230mm :


 
My thoughts on the kit are that it is not printed as well as I'd hoped, with no "weathering" at all and fairly simplistic colouring. The card is of reasonable quality without being exceptional, and the instructions are fairly basic line drawings which are easy enough to follow. The design of construction could have been better, but it's workable.

 
On with it. I started the model 3 days ago, and have completed the base to the stage of adding the vertical sections. For bracing beneath the base a number of square sections are used, some of which are integral with the upper surface and others are free sections :



 
These pieces are ready for fitting to the main section :

 
Danny

This model is of the iconic Sydney Opera House. The kit is from Schreiber-Bogen, a German kit publisher. When finished it will measure 730mm x 470mm x 230mm :


 
My thoughts on the kit are that it is not printed as well as I'd hoped, with no "weathering" at all and fairly simplistic colouring. The card is of reasonable quality without being exceptional, and the instructions are fairly basic line drawings which are easy enough to follow. The design of construction could have been better, but it's workable.

 
On with it. I started the model 3 days ago, and have completed the base to the stage of adding the vertical sections. For bracing beneath the base a number of square sections are used, some of which are integral with the upper surface and others are free sections :



 
These pieces are ready for fitting to the main section :

 
Danny

That's my job. I'll get onto it shortly .
 
By editing your Signature. Click on your Username at the top of the page, click on Account Settings, then Signature and go from there.
To mark the build log as Finished - edit the FIRST post of the log. There is a box in the edit function that allows you to edit the Title of the log.
 
Danny

oops - now I see that you are updating the index in batches, not rolling.  sorry for not reading enough.
-Josh

Final preparation.....😎
 

 
 
Done:
 


 
 
The smaller cannon (demi-culverin drake) is from the upper deck of my Sovereign of the Seas  -  also a scratch-build and made out of card, but in a scale 1/90:
 
 
Kind regards
 
 

This model is now finished, here are the final pics :




 
Danny

Dear friends,
I am very grateful for your kind words and support. Thank you Valeriy, Druxey, Jorge and Keith four your comments. I am pleased you like my work.
 
Well, this first piece took me about four hours, but I have improved the procedure and make more cannons together, so now I can save almost half the time.
 
Yes, of course. I am posting plenty of pics from the process below and believe, you will understand how I achieve these results.
 
I use various thickness of photo paper and shape it over steam. 


 
 
And here you can see, how I improved the first cannon using weathering. There were also created some details to achieve more realistic result according the real guns from that period.
 

 
 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 317 – Upper Yards - Main
 
On the fore upper yards, I attached most of the rigging, including the long lines of running rigging, to the yards before erecting the assembly of the pole mast with the royal and skysail yards mounted.  This was a bit of a mess, due to of the number of lines and also because many needed to be coiled to avoid tangle.  This left some kinked and fuzzy.  For the main upper yards pictured below, only the standing rigging, and not all of that, was attached at the bench.
 

 
In the picture, the royal stay and royal backstays go down at the bottom of the picture.  Standing lifts were installed over a grid to help level them.  I noticed later the missing footropes on the skysail.  These will have to be fitted later on the model.  Can't wait.  The next picture shows the above assembly erected on the mast.
 
 
Despite best efforts at the bench, the port, royal standing lift had to be removed and installed in place to level the yard.  Some loose ends need to be clipped off and the wire sheet chains are still on the loose.  The next picture is closer.
 
 
The next step was to run the falls from the two skysail sheet chains dangling below the center of the royal yard.  That has been completed in the next picture.
 
 
The upper arrow points to one of the skysail sheets.  These run all the way down to the main deck, passing through fairleads in the main top.  After belaying, these lines get a lot of tension adjustment to pull down evenly on the yard and make the standing lifts – lower arrow – taut.  To do this, I pull down on the fall with tweezers above the pin, then haul on the loose end.  No glue on the belaying point until all the lines are run and adjusted.  The next picture shows the fore and main upper masts.
 
 
The height of these masts is impressive – the main extends 180 feet above the deck.  The fore royal stay has been run in this picture.  The tension between that and the two backstays sets the straightness of the mast.  The last picture shows the lower end of the main royal stay.
 
 
The 4 1/2" stay descends from the upper left corner of the photo through a bullseye strapped to the main topmast head.  The loose ends of the splice between the masts have not yet been clipped off.  The free end of the stay is clamped taut above the picture so the seizings may be tied at the lower end where it is fastened to an eyebolt under the leathered stays.  The gang of stays and shrouds made this a difficult connection.  I had to resort to a hook to the barely reachable eyebolt.  A shackle on this would have made life easier, but too late for that.  Drawing/Rigging List revision is pending for those that follow.  An alternative sometimes used was to strap an eye to the top forward stay collar, but this would have had to be done before setting the collar.
 
Ed

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 316 – Rigging Continued
 
It has been more than a month since the last post, but work has been progressing.  Most of it is not too photo-worthy, however.  How many pictures of ratlines would be of interest?  The last picture in the last post showed the upper yards for the main and mizzen masts with their ironwork completed.  In the first picture below, some of these are shown with footropes added. 
 

 
The two on the left are the main royal and skysail yards.  The three on the right are the mizzen lower topsail, topgallant and royal.  The mizzen upper topsail seems to be AWOL someplace.  I have still not made the broken mizzen sky yard.   In the next picture the mizzen lower topsail is having a test fit on the mast.
 
 
In this picture the pivot arm of the mizzen lower yard truss has just been replaced – note the bright copper retaining ring - after the pin through the yoke broke while I was rattling the topmast shrouds.  The broken copper wire pin was replaced with stronger brass.  This was some tricky work to do in place. 
 
Not shown above is the main topgallant yard, which has now been erected and shown in the next picture.
 
 
The royal sheets that pass through the iron sheet block under the center of this have been run and belayed below.  The topgallant clew lines have been coupled to the sheet chains and also belayed.  These four lines serve to pull the yard downward.  However, I notice in this picture that those lines have relaxed tension on the port upper topsail standing lift, so some adjustment will be needed to straighten that out.  This is a normal part of the rigging process and is time consuming.
 
The last two pictures illustrate the problem of humidity changes discussed in some earlier posts.  The first picture shows the port main sail bowline as it has gone slack since the weather has turned cold – causing a drop in humidity.
 
 
These were installed in the early, warmer, more humid fall.  The next picture, without moving the camera, was taken less than one minute after wetting the line with clear water. 
 
 
The slack is completely gone.  The 3" line is long staple, crochet cotton, size 40.  It will sag again when dry.  This occurs mainly on long lines, cotton and linen.  I am testing treating the lines with some dilute polymer emulsion, either PVA or acrylic, to provide some moisture resistance and minimize this effect.  Stay tuned.
 
 
Ed

Thank you all for the replies .
 
The tracks took a lot of the time, very fiddly. Also my health hasn't been too good lately, so I can't work at my usual pace .
 
Some of you asked "What's next?" I've ordered a card model of the Sydney Opera House, which I'm building for my partner as a special request. I have no idea how long this will take, but I'll post some pics in the "Non-ship Build Logs" section in Shore Leave.
 
After that one I'll get back to a ship (If I'm still able to model at all) - some kind of early 1900's Russian Dreadnought for something a bit different. This will once again be a Card model.
 
Danny

Thank you all for the replies .
 
The tracks took a lot of the time, very fiddly. Also my health hasn't been too good lately, so I can't work at my usual pace .
 
Some of you asked "What's next?" I've ordered a card model of the Sydney Opera House, which I'm building for my partner as a special request. I have no idea how long this will take, but I'll post some pics in the "Non-ship Build Logs" section in Shore Leave.
 
After that one I'll get back to a ship (If I'm still able to model at all) - some kind of early 1900's Russian Dreadnought for something a bit different. This will once again be a Card model.
 
Danny

Thank you all for the replies .
 
The tracks took a lot of the time, very fiddly. Also my health hasn't been too good lately, so I can't work at my usual pace .
 
Some of you asked "What's next?" I've ordered a card model of the Sydney Opera House, which I'm building for my partner as a special request. I have no idea how long this will take, but I'll post some pics in the "Non-ship Build Logs" section in Shore Leave.
 
After that one I'll get back to a ship (If I'm still able to model at all) - some kind of early 1900's Russian Dreadnought for something a bit different. This will once again be a Card model.
 
Danny

This model is now finished, here are the final pics :




 
Danny