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Since it's raining today looks like I get to work indoors again today, so back to the shop. I ripped down some of my scrap ½” particle board into several 1 ½” wide strips to make the mounting board for the light fixture. These were then cut to length, tightly butted together (to screen off any extraneous light) and screwed into place with some ¾” Philips flat head wood screws. I set the light fixture in the opening and used the pre-drilled holes in the brackets as a guide to locate and drill 7/64” holes for some ½” long 9/64” Phillips round head wood screws that were then driven home. The lines were redrawn inside the booth to mark the face of the vinyl filter brackets. I ran a bead of glue where the vinyl bracket would seat to help seal the gap somewhat. Before the glue could set, the vinyl strip was placed and I drilled five 7/64” holes into the bottom of the booth for some more of the ½” long 9/64” wood screws to draw it down tight. Using four screws apiece, this procedure was followed for the two vertical vinyl brackets. Once the vinyl brackets were all installed, I did a test fit for the rest of the filter assembly and was satisfied with the fit.

Not much accomplished today, but I managed to get the brace painted and attached. Not sure how much I will be able to do on the booth for a bit, as I need to get started on preparing for the holidays which includes the Xmas displays. Here is the current status of the project.

Hektor, if that Santa Maria you have is the 1/118 scale version, then yes I would also recommend that ship. Those smaller scale ships would be more difficult to work with, especially when you have to reach through the rest of the rigging to run another line or to tie one off. That’s something that you didn’t have to deal with on the airplane models you’re used to. Generally speaking, with the larger scale ship models like the 1/96 Cutty Sark, it’s easier to handle the larger parts, but the overall model is much more complex to tackle as a first try. Take it from me as I’ve built it a long time ago and had to take several breaks in the construction due to the frustration of handling that complexity! Bye the way, although I’ve never been to Sweden myself, both my grandfather and grandmother were born and raised about 2 ½ miles NE of Stromstad or about 250 miles NW of Ystad. Welcome to MSW from a half Swede.

I positioned the Plexiglas over the opening on the bottom side of the top panel and traced around it to make it easy to re-position when removing it to install the tear-offs. Using a center punch, all of the screw holes were located in the exact center of the Plexiglas holes so it would be able to expand and contract once it was screwed down. The Plexiglas was set aside and I used a 5/64” bit to pre-drill the pilot holes for the screws. (I purposely drilled them well under sized to allow the screws to get a tighter grip in the particle board.) Once all the holes were drilled, the Plexiglas was re-positioned and all 18 of the ½” long 9/64” pan head wood screws were installed with flat washers. By flipping the top panel over and setting the light fixture into the opening you can see that the light fixture housing sits almost ½” proud of the particle board. Since this would allow light to leak out where it’s not wanted, strips of ½” particle board will be added to fill this gap and serve as a raised mounting board for the brackets. (It will also stiffen the front edge of the top panel.) I fashioned a prototype of the bracket from a piece of galvanized tin shingle into this 1 ½” wide Z shape to mount the light on this raised mounting board. Using the remainder of the shingle, I fashioned the four light mounting brackets. I applied some 1 ½” wide painters tape on the shingle for each bracket so all of the brackets would be a consistent size and would make the cut line easy to follow. The locations of the two bends from the prototype were then marked on each piece and one leg was shortened for use on the raised mounting board. The pieces were the marked for the mounting screw holes. Each long flange was drilled with a 1/8” bit for two Philips head bolts for attaching to the fixture. Each of the short flanges was then drilled with a 9/64” bit for a pair of wood screws for attaching it to the raised mounting board. Using my machinists vice, the flanges were bent over on the marks previously drawn on the tape. Unfortunately I don’t have a bending break, but the tin was thin and bent readily. I placed the brackets where the bolts wouldn’t interfere with anything inside the fixture. The fixture was opened up and the brackets were clamped to the fixture so I could use them as drilling guides for the bolts. I drilled eight 1/8” holes and the 3/8” long 7/64” bolts were then installed from the inside out, with a flat washer, a lock washer and hex nut on the outside for each. Despite my efforts to keep the particle board straight and flat, I discovered that when the top panel was test fit, the panel was no longer covering the entire width of the front opening. Measuring the overall width of the booth at the bottom was 31 11/16”. However the same measurement at the top was now a full 32”! Checking the upper corner of the left side panel closer, it was found to have warped. Taking out a bar clamp, I tightened it until the top and bottom measurements were equal. The only easy solution seemed to be adding a wood brace across the opening at the top. I found a scrap of 5/4 clear pine that was long enough to fit and I trimmed it down to 1 1/2'’ wide on my band saw. It was a rather rough cut, but a block plane, a scraper and a little elbow grease cleaned it up just fine. Measuring the space with the bar clamp still in place, it was cut to length and put in place. The fact that my booth is wider than the original probably contributed to the need for one. While the brace wasn’t a feature that I had planned on having it will certainly make it stronger and prevent the top panel from sagging. The brace, being as slim as it is, shouldn’t detract from the view-able area very much. I’ll just give it a coat or two of paint and anchor it in place with some small angle braces.

I have tried that once and was not satisfied with the results. Although to be honest, the pantograph that I used was made of wood and some more pricey metal units are available, you still need a sharp eye and a very steady hand with the stylus to follow the original lines. I found that I had to use a light touch with a 4H lead in the stylus so that I could later redraw and even out the lines with ships curves. All in all, going to a professional print shop will give you a much faster and more accurate result. Also, if the ship is small enough to fit your available paper size, you can even use your computers' printer if it has enlargement and reduction capabilities.

Once the booth is in operation, the spray from the booth would cover the Plexiglas eventually so I decided to take Dons suggestion to use a trick used by dirt racers and motorcyclists referred to as: the tear-off. This is accomplished by using a piece of transparent packaging tape stretched over the Plexiglas light window with one end doubled back about ½” to form a pull tab. When the light cover gets too opaque from spray paint, you simply grab the pull tab and peal it off. You can put multiple layers of tape on the window to allow you to rip off the topmost layer one at a time. This allows you to repeat this operation several times before having to open up the booth to put on a new set of tear-offs. On Dons booth, he had a single bulb light whereas my booth has two, thus making my light window a bit wider. The tape only comes in a width of slightly less than two inches, but I will simply overlap two pieces of tape for each tear-off. Applying these strips is much easier to do when the Plexiglas is removed from the top panel and laid out on a flat surface, so to avoid doing that too often; I plan on making four tear-off strips for mine. My next step will be to position the Plexiglas window on the inside face of the top panel and predrill some holes for the mounting screws. Then I will proceed to make some mounting brackets for the light fixture.

I gave the edges and top surface of the top panel three coats of paint yesterday after removing the hinges. A final coat was also given to the inside of the booth and a bit of touch up to every hole that was drilled. I think that it should be pretty well sealed to protect it now from humidity changes. I set up my drill press with a guide fence to locate 18 evenly spaced holes 3/8” from the edge of the Plexiglas panel. I will be using some ½” long 9/64” pan head wood screws with flat washers to attach it to the inside face of the top panel. The holes were drilled oversize with a 3/16” bit to allow for any movement between the particle board and the Plexiglas. Things went along smoothly until I got to the last hole (of course), when the bit caused the Plexiglas to fracture and break off a large chip from the edge. Apparently I must have used a little too much pressure with the drill. Luckily it was in one piece and I just glued it back onto the edge with plastic cement and set aside to cure so I could finish drilling the hole later. The repair to the Plexiglas worked just fine and I finished drilling the holes today. I decided to increase the size of the holes to ¼” to allow a little more room for expansion and contraction. My guide fence on the drill press was still in place, so it was an easy adjustment. (I was very careful drilling them this time however.) Here is the current status of the booth.

I managed to start on the top panel by cutting out the opening for the light fixture. Holes were drilled in the corners for using my saber saw, and I did use it to cut about two feet. But, I noticed that the saw wasn’t following my line even though a guide was clamped to make it do so. Upon closer inspection, I found that the blade was bending off to one side. I assumed that is was due to the blades alignment being out of whack. Since the procedure to get it realigned was rather tedious, I decided to just use a short bladed hand saw to complete the cut by twisting the blade a bit to force it back in line. I still used the saber saw to make the short cuts on the end and make a kerf enabling me to use my hand saw to complete the cut, but I guided it along the line by hand without the guide. It turned out that I was able to cut faster and straighter with the hand saw anyway. Still, the cuts were a little ragged and needed to be evened out with rasp and sandpaper. The back side of the cuts was especially rough, so I just eased the edges a bit. I took out a sheet of 1/8” thick Plexiglas and laid it over the cut–out to size it with about ¾” overlap. Using a felt pen the size was marked and it was set aside to cut later. Now I marked the location of the hinges evenly on the top side of the panel and numbered both the location and the hinges, as the hinge hole locations varied a bit. The hinges were then set one at a time on the panel with one leaf hanging over the edge and I used them as a template to locate the holes for the stove bolts. Those holes were then countersunk on the inside face of the panel to reduce interference with the air flow. The hinges were then temporarily attached to make it easier to locate the hinge holes on the back panel. Since my foam weather-strip was incorrectly shipped as ½” wide by ¼” thick rather than the 3/8” thick that I ordered, I needed to reduce the gap between the top and back panel. Luckily the hinge holes had not been drilled yet so I just used 1/8” spacers rather than the 3/16” that I planned on using. The weather-striping would thus be compressed when the top was closed to provide a tighter air seal. Returning to the Plexiglas panel for the light fixture, I decided to use my band saw to make the cuts to reduce the tear out on the backside of the cut. Once the panel was cut out, I used a sandpaper block to finish the edges and round over the corners. Tomorrow, I plan to continue working on the top panel.

Allan, that is a finely detailed job there.

For a simple and inexpensive solution to this problem that will work with any size or shape of connection, try this. It consists of two scrap pieces of softwood with a hole for the hose in one piece and another piece with a hole sized for the tool. Once cut, you simply glue them together as shown. Now all you need to do is slip the fitting over the tool port and then insert your hose into the other.

Taking my hinges for the top panel to my shop drill press, I clamped it in place to drill additional holes for all of the hinge leaves. You can see from the sketch below that the holes nearest to the hinge pin would be too close to the edge of the top panel and would end up in the foam weather strip on the top edge of the back panel. Since the hinges came in pairs of two, I decided that four hinges would be better anyway. The hinge pins are a rather sloppy fit, but by using all four of them it should help to reduce some of the slop. Returning to the electrical hookups, the fan wires were spliced in the plastic electrical box with wire nuts and given two coats of the liquid electrical tape. The cords for the fans were encased in some flexible plastic cord organizer to further protect them. The organizer was securely attached to the booth with several staples running across the back and left end panels of the booth to the power strip. Once the second coat of liquid electrical tape in the splice box set for 24 hours, the wires were pushed back inside the box and a blank cover panel was installed. The next thing to tackle will be making the top cover.

Mark, despite its rickety appearance, it is quite stable and easily capable of supporting the booth. After all, I have been using this four legged version of the cart shown below here to build the booth. The primary advantage of this four legged cart is that the legs can be fairly easily shortened with a pipe cutter. However, it doesn't have the drawer section for storing all of the air brush accessories. If push comes to shove, I could probably fashion some sort of shelving to attach to it, but there's quite a bit more work involved for that. Essentially, my choice depends on the optimum working height for using the booth. If I do have to shorten it, it can only lower the center of gravity and thus make it even more stable.

This is the cart that I’m thinking of using for my portable paint spray booth. It is quite light and somewhat shaky, but with the weight of the booth itself and a little reinforcing I think it would work OK. It is similar to the cart that I am currently using to make the booth, but it has a drawer section on the right side with five removable pull-out plastic drawers. There is an easily removed protective cover panel that prevents the drawers from sliding out, so anything inside should stay put. The bottom drawer could readily be replaced with a shelf to accommodate my sprayers’ compressor. The only reservation that I have with it is the height. I feel that since I am in a wheelchair, it may set the booth too high for convenient spraying, not to mention opening it up to change the filters. Unfortunately, shortening the legs could prove to be unfeasible. So I guess I am curious to know how the fortunate ones that can stand up use theirs. Does your booth sit just above your waist or higher? The cart that I am using to make the booth has no drawers, but the legs can be readily shortened to whatever height would work the best. I will continue to be open to any thoughts on the mater since I can still work on the other facets of this project. Meanwhile, I am working on the electrical features. The light fixture shown here is next. Using an old three wire extension cord, since the fixture needed a ground wire, I cut it off at roughly 18 inches from the plug. The other end was stripped back to expose the three wires. The cord was run through a 90 degree cable clamp and securely clamped it in place. If you notice in the photo, the fixture wires are solid, while the cord has stranded wire. The solid wire had about ¾” exposed, so I left about 1 ½” of the stranded wire exposed. That allowed me to twist the stranded wire tightly around the solid wire with my fingers. Then I trimmed the end to fit into the wire nut and twisted that until it was tight. Once all of the wires were joined together the nuts were turned down to allow me to seal the connection with the liquid electrical tape shown here. Now I proceeded to mount a switchable power strip on the front left side of the booth. As you can see, it mounts with the keyhole system, so locating the screws to match needs a technique that I learned long ago. Using a strip of painters tape stretched over the holes on the back, I rub a soft leaded pencil over the holes, which gives me the location of the holes. Now the tape is applied to the location selected for the power strip. Now holes are drilled through the tape and the appropriately sized flat head wood screws are installed. The tricky part is to adjust the amount of screw exposure to give a firm attachment. Once the strip is attached, I have learned through experience that an additional screw needs to be installed to prevent the power strip from slipping out of the keyhole slots as shown here. I got a start on the fan wire hookup. A plastic electrical box was screwed to the booth between the two fans. The wire between the box and the fans was wrapped heat shrunk plastic wrap to protect the wires and I nailed some cable staples to anchor them just before entering the box. Times up, so I guess I’m done for now.

Sad news indeed. Hate to click the like button for the notice, but it does some amount of good to acknowledge a man for his contributions to his family, friends and our modeling community at large. R.I.P. Mitch.

“What---Me Worry?” As John says “preparing for the worst and hoping for the best” is a much better philosophy than that of Alfred E. Newman of Mad Magazine fame. Due to various materials and equipment being used there, the potential for fire in this area is probably one of the highest in your home. You have saw dust in the air along with volatile vapors from paint, stain or varnish, working with caustic chemicals that require protective gloves and masks. Then you have ignition sources galore from open flames for soldering, shorts from electrical equipment, the pilot lights in your water heater or furnace, or heaven forbid, a smokers cigarette. Other than that, I can’t really see any reason for having one or more readily available.

Here is an article that I posted back on April 13 in the Filler Block topic under the heading Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck. When I first saw this posting of this topic, I was reminded of seeing that in the March/April issue of Ships in Scale there was a short article on converting POB construction to solid hull construction by Robert Brandt. In his article, he described his method of using foam blocks to fill in between frames allowing him to use a single layer of planking that would have continuous solid support and eliminate the problem of hollow spots in between frames. (Something quite important if you intend to use a natural finish rather than painting the model.) He thought that by using extruded polystyrene foam for his blocking, the ease of cutting and shaping the blocks was easier than using wood. As an added bonus this would add very little in terms of weight. The excellent compressive strength of this type of foam doesn’t hurt either. Shown below are the illustrations of his method that were shown in his article. (Currently being reviewed by my assistant.) A version of this type of foam that is readily available throughout North America is Dow Blue Styrofoam. STYROFOAM™ Brand Insulation is the original extruded polystyrene foam insulation, invented by Dow and first manufactured by them in 1941. Dow's blue colored extruded polystyrene Blue Board's closed cell structure and lack of voids resists water and water vapor penetration thus protecting underlying materials from water damage. This product is also available in several sheet sizes and thicknesses and is relatively inexpensive. It does however, require the use of a particular type of adhesive, as some types of adhesive will dissolve the board. There is also very little in the way of shrinking or expanding due to temperature, so once it's in place it would be very stable.

As much as you enjoyed working on this ship, I for one, have enjoyed watching it progress just as much. That was one fine job and I hope to follow the progression of your next one.

My booth wiring setup will be somewhat changed from the original design, due somewhat to being wheelchair bound, I will mount the power strip on the forward edge of the left end panel. (If I put it on the top as in the original, the switch would be out of my reach.) Modified extension cords will be run from both the fans and the light fixture back to the power strip. Here are photos of the LED twin light fixture that will be used. As you can see, the fixture needs to have a plug with a ground wire, so I have taken an old three wire extension cord and cut the wire off at about 18 inches from the male plug end. (Using a replacement fitting to terminate the wires is something that is hard to assemble and leaves a lot to be desired anyway.) The other end will be spliced and anchored inside the fixture. From there the cord will be run out of the back of the fixture towards the back edge of the top, anchored there and run loose around to plug into the power strip. As in the original design, I will need to make up a pair of metal brackets to attach the fixture to the top panel that will allow the LED bulbs to sit down in the cutout for the light. Putting the power strip on the opposite end of the booth, means that the wire leads to the fans will have to be run all the way around the backside of the booth. To do this, I cut a pair of two wire extension cords off at 36 inches from the male plug ends so the plugs could be used as is with the cut end spliced to the fan leads. Since the terminals inside the fans are not accessible to connect the extension cord wires to, I need to splice them directly to the lead wires extending out from them. I don’t want to leave the splices out in the open, so I will make the splices inside a junction box and clamp them in place. From there the cords will be anchored to the back of the booth, leaving enough slack to allow them to plug into the power strip. All of the splices will be twisted into wire nuts and coated with liquid electrical tape that I picked up from Micro-Mark. At present I am modifying the hinges for the top panel and contemplating modifying one of my rolling carts to use for making the booth portable.

Getting back to your original question: I'm going to spend some money on reference books so I'm curious which books MSW members consider to be essential for a ship modeler's library (other than MSW itself). I have a few other publications in my collection not mentioned previously that I would recommend. The first one shown below is a very good guide on scratch building a clipper ship that I have used many of his techniques when I built my 1/6” scale Wanderer. This paper pamphlet I have shown above is of a 1928 Popular Mechanics magazine by James Tate who was the Technical editor of the magazine. It has a set of plans and instructions on scratch building an 1/8” scale model of the clipper ship. It is no longer in print, however if you Google the title it brings up the site early plans for making a model – sobco. There you will find access to a reprint of the booklet at the bottom of the page, and just above that are clearer copies of the actual blueprints. The model is shown as a bread and butter style solid hull. One reason that I liked it so much was that he used nothing more than a few hand tools that I had at the time. So if you don’t have much in the way of tools, a handsome ship model is still within your grasp. This next one titled Ship Modeling Simplified by Frank Mastini is a wealth of tips and techniques for building plank on bulkhead model kits. Then I have Ship Modeling Techniques by Portia Takakjian. She describes the construction of three different models with three different techniques for the hulls. The royal yacht Fubbs is done plank on frame. The Hudson River sloop Victorine is done with a solid block of wood. The last ship is the research vessel Vema which used the lift method. While the hulls vary, she goes into making many of the details commonly found on many different vessels. One of the hardcover books that I have read and reread several time is William Fredrick’s (1874) Scale Journey: A Scratch Builder’s Evolutionary Development by Antonio Mendez C. He was a master of taking discarded tools and converting them to other homemade tools and gadgets. His shop alone was a very innovative design. The book describes his construction on an R/C model of this ship. This last hardcover book is Men, Ships, and the Sea, a National Geographic publication by Capt. Alan Villiers. While this one doesn’t go much into modeling, I have found much inspiration in its pages to renew my interest in ships whenever it begins to wane. It covers the whole gamut of ships from the earliest vessels of tied together logs through the early wooden sailing ships, steel dreadnoughts of war, to the leisure craft of today. For people interested in specific ships I have these last two entries. The Pride of Baltimore The story of the Baltimore Clippers by Thomas Gilmore shown below gives a lot of the history and construction details of both ships I and II. Old Ironsides The Rise, Decline And Resurrection Of The USS Constitution by Thomas C. Gillmer is a publication that came out to celebrate her 200th anniversary. Here again, this shows many of the details as she was originally and all of the various revisions and repairs through the years. Anyone interested in building a model of this popular ship will find much of interest here. One more suggestion I would offer is to order the flash drives of Model Ship Builder and Ships in Scale that are available through MSW and the Model Research Guild, as there is a wealth of invaluable information in them.

Not much time today, but did manage to finish painting everything on the booth with the exception of the top panel which needs a lot of work yet. I managed to tip the booth onto its backside to paint the bottom side of the bottom panel and took this photo from the top. You can see the layout of the plenum from this view.

Now that the glue has had two days to set up it was time to put in the plenum cover. Once I got to this point, I realized that the cover should have been attached to the right side panel during the last step when I would only have needed to glue up the bottom and one side of the cover. Now I have to butter up both sides and the bottom at the same time! To keep from scraping the glue off while sliding the cover in place, I planed about 1/16” off one edge. I clamped the cover in place so that I could drill through the baffle and right end panel into the cover. Taking the cover out, those holes were countersunk as before to allow for a tighter fit. Going to the yellow carpenters glue bottle again, the edges and bottom end were buttered up with a heavy coat and the panel was slipped back into place. Two of the screws on each side were driven into place with a hand screwdriver to seat into the predrilled holes and get everything properly aligned. The remaining screws were then driven home. The excess glue that squeezed out was removed with a damp cloth to finish the installation. Here is a photo at this point below. Now I decided to test fit the filters and their plastic supports. I found that the filters were actually a tight enough fit that the 1/8” hardboard shims were not really necessary after all. All of the plastic U channels were then trimmed for a tight fit for later installation. Cutting the plastic U Channel was difficult at first until I realized that there was an easier way to do it without having the saw chatter its way through it. Marking the cut with a pencil and a small square, the piece to be trimmed was clamped in my vice with two scraps of ½ inch particle board in the gap. The scraps were lined up with the cut line even with the mark and the line was placed very close to the end of the vice jaws. Now with a hack saw, the blade just used the end of the scraps for a guide. The chatter was minimized and the cut was square. While still in the vice, a sanding block was used to smooth the cut. I also decided to fit a section of T channel to fit between the filters in the center. At this point everything was fitting properly as shown below. Taking the filter assembly out, I used more glue to make the fillet for the bottom of the baffle. Now using a pencil, I marked a line three inches in from the back panel on the bottom and both sides to locate the inside edges of the filter assembly. As the baffle still needed to be painted, a small drill was used to make an impression in the panels so that when the line was painted it could still be used as a guide to relocate the face of the filter frame. Hopefully, I can get back into the shop tomorrow to paint the booth assembly and begin making the top.

Who can say just how long any of us have on this earth? Our very existence is always subject to coming to an abrupt end when we least expect it! I feel that if we all lived our lives avoiding doing the things that we like to do just because we aren't sure if we can finish them, none of us would be able to enjoy what time we do have and would never be able to get anything done at all. I have listed many projects that I look forward to doing below, that realistically I probably wont be able to, but I fully intend to give it a good try anyway! Do your logs and enjoy another facet of modeling, you will find that we all try giving advice on how to get through the difficulties that more than likely many of us have already run into.

There have been many things keeping me away from this project lately including the elevator problems, the downed tree, a couple of funerals, and just life in general, but I did get a break yesterday to get at it again. The fans were bolted to the right end panel with a bit of caulk around the edges to maintain a good air seal. This had to be done before installing the baffle as the inside end of the stove bolts would be very tough to access in the 2 inch space once that was attached. The next step was to clamp the baffle panel in place to allow me to align the holes in the bottom panel with the bottom edge of the baffle and drill into the bottom of it. It was becoming too difficult to wrestle the heavy assembly around on the assembly table from the wheelchair to allow me to tilt it back on its backside, so I just clamped it in place as shown. It did however; make it a bit awkward keeping the drill perpendicular to the surface of the bottom panel while drilling straight up through the bottom so the bit would stay in the center of the baffle panel. The clamps were removed at this point to allow me to countersink the holes that I just drilled in the bottom edge of the baffle panel. Next, I buttered up the bottom edge of the baffle with a heavy coat of yellow wood glue. The assembly was clamped together again and the screws were driven home. The Plenum cover was slid into place and that was clamped as shown here to sit overnight for the glue to set up.

While in the hardware store the other day I came across this very handy tool. Try to imagine if you will, an 8 oz. carpenters hammer with a shortened contoured grip handle. Well, that is just what we have here. That is a 4" magnetic mechanics square beside it to give you an idea of its size. With my limited strength due to my MD, a standard hammer has become an unwieldy tool. However, this baby gives me a tool that is easily griped and still provides enough heft to drive standard nails or pound things into place. This model is made by Master Mechanic, and for people with normal strength, it's perfect for swinging in tight spots. I have a one handed sledge, a 20 oz. framing hammer, and several 16 and 8 oz. standard hammers, but they are of little use to me now. Of course I also have numerous small specialty modeling hammers, but they are likewise of little use when doing regular carpentry projects. For me, this fills a need that I never even realized that I had!