Stevinne

7 hours ago, kirill4 said:

Good day,

It is very sad to see this troubles with topmast platforms... lacky Younare still in that stage when a few jobs for reinforcement could be done with small looses , but not like this kind of trouble could happened when all rigging completed and sails installed as well... that will be a real serious trouble

What I could guess, may be there is sence to undone upper shrouds, to reinforce entire tops construction and made them more reliable secured to the masthead?

Actually rim of the tops shouldn't be loaded by topmast shrouds and teared off the place, for that forces of the topmast shrouds transfered to the mast shrouds by means of futtock shrouds which are pass trough the holes in the top... looking at your photo I see topmast shrouds but no fitted futtock shrouds...hm... this is not right way to rigg topmast shrouds, may be this provoked troubles which You expetienced?

 

You're right about the futtock shrouds. My plan is to do the ratlines on the lower shrouds and then attach the futtocks. In retrospect, perhaps I should have completed the lower shrouds, ratted them and attached the futtocks before I moved on to the topmast. That would have prevented another issue I had with the topmast shrouds, which was the lower deadeyes twisting as I rigged the upper deadeyes. Oh well, live and learn.

On 5/8/2024 at 6:38 PM, kirill4 said:

Good day,

#90

Main and main top stays probably should be arranged in a little bit different way...?

Lower loop of MS used to be secured to the upper part of the  stem or to the fore mast or to the bowsprit  and run on the right side of the mast as a rule, and MS tackles in form of pair of 5 holes deadeyes or 3 sheeves blocks need to be placed very close to the fore mast ...

main top stay used to be passed trough the lead block which is secured under the "mars"  or above it, in both caces  lead block stropped very close to the mast top, main topmast stay passes trough this lead block and runs to the deck and secured near the mast base...or main topmast stay could be secured to the fore mast top by means of tackle formed by deadeyes or pair of blocks... 

Ps

Standing and running rigging ropes are all of different diameters , there are a few exel tables free for download to calculate your own ropes size, when model has all ropes of the same size it doesn't look nice and right...

Krill, I'd originally had the lower mainmast stay rigged as you describe, that is what is called for in the plans, but I was concerned because things were rubbing against the top of the focsle. I looked around for alternatives and found some Golden Hind build logs and copied their approach. The main top stay is rigged as per the plans, though having worked with these plans for many years, I increasingly find that to be little comfort. 

I've been slogging through attaching shrouds and thought I was making progress. But, when I went to gather the foremast top shrouds, the top ring of the foremast top came loose, requiring some gluing and clamping. I'd been really careful when originally putting the top together to make sure everything lined up and looked good. Now I fear what things will look like when I remove the clamps.

I would recommend going to Model Expo and signing up for their email list. They have sales just about every week and the email will keep you abreast. I'd also recommend getting your hands on "Ship Modeling Simplified" by Frank Mastini, which I found invaluable when building my first kit. The book clearly and simply lays out what to do in each step of construction.

21 hours ago, Keith Black said:

 I've not had good luck with those needle threader because the threader loop readily separates from the thumb portion plus the threader loop is rather short. I really like these pictured below, if Drake would like one to see how they work out tell em I'll send em one. 

 

 Nice work on the Lowe. 

 

https://www.amazon.com/Eketirry-threaders-Threader-Crafting-Knitting/dp/B09ZQJ3XJB/ref=sxin_16_pa_sp_search_thematic_sspa?content-id=amzn1.sym.679ca254-fe3a-4b5e-a742-a17f009c74a4%3Aamzn1.sym.679ca254-fe3a-4b5e-a742-a17f009c74a4&crid=3JJ455SJL6WFC&cv_ct_cx=needle%2Bthreaders&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.jOeYPNH5p1t-GEG7QKj_1VJ-pwdrEnAAp70tvcp-hm_FJVMGcl9ZWsvK2Ms9KDJ3WUQcGsVr2rt7GZzqpAKEKw.xyyBoCeouw0bR7mU9Svc3uTYE-QEVRSVcGrSZuSyfQ0&dib_tag=se&keywords=needle%2Bthreaders&pd_rd_i=B09ZQJ3XJB&pd_rd_r=41baf063-95bc-40e7-82c9-4d0a3906f85c&pd_rd_w=0wSPk&pd_rd_wg=8IpDo&pf_rd_p=679ca254-fe3a-4b5e-a742-a17f009c74a4&pf_rd_r=ACYFTZ52Q06HJV098X9M&qid=1715130095&s=home-garden&sbo=RZvfv%2F%2FHxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sprefix=needle%2Bthreaders%2Cgarden%2C72&sr=1-3-364cf978-ce2a-480a-9bb0-bdb96faa0f61-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9zZWFyY2hfdGhlbWF0aWM&th=1  

I included one of those in my purchases, and I have to say I am so far impressed with how it works. Granted, I still have many more blocks and deadeyes to thread, but so far the little guy is performing like a champ and shows no sign of giving up the ghost.

Thank you both.

I'm moving on to the topmast shrouds on the Roter Lowe and had a question about the thread to use for the futtock shrouds. In my past ships, the topmast shrouds attached directly to the lower mast and did not involve any topmast deadeyes. On the Roter Lowe, the topmast shrouds run to deadeyes attached to the top. Those deadeyes have a ring beneath them for attaching the futtock shrouds. I was wondering if I used the same sized thread for the futtock shrouds as I use for the topmast shrouds or if I should use a thinner thread. I'm leaning toward to a thinner thread, but that is just a personal preference and might turn out horribly wrong.

Put in the fore stays and the foremast shrouds. 

I'd think the forecastle guns were either swivels or what were known as hailshot pieces - light cannon almost like large guns that the shooter would hold while resting the front of the barrel on the rail. This would make sense since some hailshot pieces were found on the wreck. The Anthony Roll and this painting of Henry's court heading to France for the Field of Cloth of Gold show the ports on the focsle, but don't have any guns protruding from them.

5 hours ago, Baker said:

I don't think I'll live long enough to experience an event like this 😇

I remember reading somewhere, maybe in response to questions on a Facebook post by the MR museum, that there are currently no plans to uncover and raise more of the remaining parts of the ship. I think the last thing they raised was what remained of the stem post, but that was decades ago. It is a shame, since it might settle the debates about what the ship looked like in the end once and for all.

I've started adding fore and back stays, but early on into the process I ran into difficulty. I don't know how many needle threaders Sir Francis Drake took with him when he sailed the Golden Hind around the world, but at $1.50 per pack, for $10 today at Walmart I got enough of these bad boys to hopefully last me a decade or so.

23 minutes ago, tartane said:

What I yhink very curious is the enormous height of the fore castle. I can't imagine that a shipbuilder dared to go that high and indeed the ship seems to have tilted as a result.

It also catches a huge amount of wind.

Isn't the drawing that exists of it a very exaggerated representation of reality? That was often the custom at that time.

Wouldn't it be advisable to reconstruct the height to the human scale? So the deck heights do not exceed 170 cm, then with those three decks you get to a height of 510 cm plus the beam thicknesses that were still in between. Then it will be at most 60 cm higher. I would never go higher than 510 cm. But maybe that's also the height you calculated yourself because I don't know the scale exactly.

Constant

 

Back when MR was first constructed, that was the way warships were built. Cannon, being hard to aim and slow to load, the tactics were to fire a broadside, get close and board and generally, having the highest "castle" at the fore or stern helped you win. It wasn't until the Armada that the English pioneered fighting in lower and more maneuverable ships. That change came along with the change in tactics that called for fighting artillery duels instead of hand-to-hand combat. One of the debates about MR is whether or not they cut her down during the course of her career as they rebuilt her and increased her compliment of heavier guns. 

Been a while since I posted, but I've been slowly and steadily working. Got the sticks and deadeyes in her and rigged and installed the cannon. Those were a pain as I left too much wiggle room between the blocks and the brass pins that anchor them to the deck. Looking forward to getting the shrouds on her.

2 hours ago, allanyed said:

The wood will shrink as it dries and could take away the tight fit against adjacent planks.  Some species are worse than others, but this is can be a problem with most species.  I have formed wet wood on the model in the past but let it dry before gluing.  I stopped this for the most part as it needs to be clamped in place and clamps often leaves dents in the wet wood that remain even once dry.    Have you studied the Chuck Passaro videos on marking out the bulkheads or frames and edge bending off the model? It is really easy to do and never a worry about needing clamps or pins as the finished piece of planking will have the right shape assuming it is properly tapered as well, especially near the bow.  A well made pre-shaped plank can be held in place with finger pressure with the glue of your choice for less than a minute and is done.

Allan

 

 

I haven't watched any of his videos, but it sounds like I should. I haven't encountered any issues with shrinkage yet - at least with the second layer, but that could just be luck. I have had fit issues with my first run of planks, but I've always attributed that to my lack of skill with an Xacto knife and pencil. Maybe there was more to it than that. Thanks for the heads-up.  

2 hours ago, allanyed said:

Hi Stevinne

Can you explain what this is and post a pic or two? 

Many thanks

Allan

Unfortunately, I'm not planking anything right now. I usually soak my second layer wood before working with it, because I feel it makes it easier to cut and to also to bend. My plank shaper is basically a soldering iron with a big metal bulb in place of the soldering point. I got it on Model Expo many years ago. It came with a wooden jig for bending planks off the ship, but I usually don't use it.  When placing the second plank I apply the glue while the wood is still wet and then run the heated bulb back and forth over it until everything dries. I find it forms a solid bond. 

I usually use a combination of CA and carpenter's glue on the second planking. I use a small amount of ca at points to start the attachment, then a run of carpenter's glue. I run my plank shaper over the glued section once it's in place - it speeds up the drying process. Then I will use another dot of ca, some more carpenter's glue and continue the run. I find that for me, this works well, especially when I am trying to line up the planks along the curves of the bow and stern. One issue I find with CA and the second-layer is that if you get any spillover onto the exterior, it is very difficult to remove without staining the wood.

I'm not familiar with either kit, but another consideration is the quality of instructions provided, which can make or break the experience when working on your first few ships. 

1 hour ago, Chuck said:

Stevinee...yes you are correct.  But it got out of hand.   We thought it would be used by members to showcase other hobbies....The gardening....maybe astronomy or photography among birthday greetings etc.  Maybe a few fun topics.  But as with all things a few bad apples even after being warned used the forum for their own personal facebook site.   Posting bad jokes and memes and minions....by the thousands.

 

That is never what we ever thought it was going to turn into or become.  A distraction.  So no harm done.   There may be a few members that are so put off by its removal that they leave....but remember they never posting anything else but that stuff.   So no great loss.  I hope this rebalances the site and maybe in the future we can bring it back.   But I fear it would be impossible to police and moderate properly.  There will always be somebody that says his love of funny traffic signs is his other hobby and just as important as someone's other hobby of gardening.    And thus we will always end up with talking and dancing cats....bad jokes and quirky "doctors office moments"   or "your funniest cooking mistake...the list is endless.   That is called facebook.

 

Back to model building!!!

 

Chuck

Chuck, Thanks for the quick and reasoned response. I hadn't realized they had been asked to stop and kept doing it nonetheless. Makes a lot more sense now.

I never visited the shore leave section, but this is what the description was when it opened:

"If you haven't noticed, we've added a new topic area:  Shore Leave. 

From the pinned posts there about it: 

This is the area that many wanted, and perhaps didn't even know it. If your topic is nothing to do with the world of ships or ship modelling, then here is the place to post it. General chat, Birthday announces etc.

No politics. No religion. No inflammatory topics.

This area can be used for things like "visits to other members",  non-nautical type vacations, basically anything anyone wants to share but with the caveat that it will be heavily monitored for taboo subjects.

Want to discuss cars? Airplanes?  The great vacation?  The wedding?  No problem. 

Lastly, we will periodically clean it out of old posts and topics.

This forum was created in order to cut down on the off-topic posting in our other areas of the site.  Please post everything else here and in order to preserve the model resource for all of the build logs,  techniques forums etc and make them easier to navigate and read through.    Thanks   Don't hesitate to share your experiences with all of the friends you have met through the site!!!"

While cat memes (how do you pronounce that?) weren't specifically banned, it sounds like the problem wasn't folks were posting stuff that was offensive or not what members were told the forum section would or would not accept. I also don't recall seeing any posts decrying the state of the forum. It seems just a case that what was posted was what didn't fit with someone's idea of what the forum should be. Now get those kids off my lawn!

I have given this book as a gift whenever I have given someone a ship model to get them interested in the hobby. I think it is a great introduction and something I still refer to when working on projects.

The Alan Lewrie series by the late Dewey Lambdin is fun, light reading with good naval battles thrown in. Not nearly as realistic as Patrick O'Brian but very enjoyable. If weight is an issue, I'd recommend checking out the Internet Archive, a free online library with loads of books, though I believe you must have an Internet connection to read, as they work as a regular library, with only one person allowed to check out a copy at a time.

A bit more work on the masts. I used a technique I learned wrapping the guides on my bamboo fly rod to make the mast wraps. The crows nests went together easily, the support pieces were white metal that I painted brown. The masts were stained with pecan stain. Nothing is glued in place yet. I'm waiting on some backing links for the chainplates, since the plates that came with the kit are too short. I'm not sure if I'll use them and the backing links or just create my own to use with the backing links. 

Tapering masts and yards is one of my least-favorite aspects of ship building. This time, however, I used a mini-plane that I purchased about a decade ago to get one of my Mom's doors to close when the wood swelled during summer. That really got the job done, with me then chucking the mast into my battery-powered drill and using some 100 grit sandpaper to smooth out the plane lines. The mast caps on this kit are cast metal, so there's little opportunity to widen the holes with a file. That's meant that the top masts are tapered at both the bottom to fit into the cap and at the top. I still need to work on the mizzen top before staining and adding some rope bindings. Tapering masts is so tedious, I took a break from my efforts to pick the first salad ingredients from this year's garden. Starting plants from seeds usually means my garden is running a little late each summer, but it gives me great satisfaction to grow my own. This is the first year I tried cherry tomatoes, but it looks like we are in for a bumper crop, so I'm pleased.

Very nice job, it looks great. You really did a lot with that kit.

Added the stern galleries and the beakhead. I think the kit was missing some pieces, since they listed some parts for the back of the stern galleries that I simply didn't have, so I just backed the laser-cut forepiece with some walnut strips. The beakhead was made by covering a laser-cut piece with alternating strips of natural and black wood cut to give the diagonal effect. It took a little tweaking on my part while the glue was still wet to get them to sit right, and even then a stickler for perfection will note some problems. After having some health issues last August, I feel good that I'm at least at a point where if I were to keel over tomorrow, the kit is in a state where it can be displayed. Of course, that means that once I start adding shrouds - the likely next step - I'll need to complete the whole thing quickly so as to guard against the half-finished look if I can't complete things.