Thunder
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Thunder got a reaction from Canute in Recommend me a frigate kit?
I am building the caldercraft Diana at the moment but i would not advise it as a second kit. If I had not already of had it in my stash I would of gone with the Sphinx from Vanguard models. It is still rated as an experienced builder but the build methods and instructions have improved dramatically since the Diana kit was designed.
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Thunder got a reaction from oakheart in HM Naval Cutter Speedy 1828 by Thunder - FINISHED - Model Shipwright - Scale 1:48
Now shots of the stern counters and rudder construction with some shots of stern planking.
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Thunder got a reaction from Jack-in-the-Blue in HM Brig Supply by Jobbie - Caldercraft - Scale 1:64
Hi, I prefer to keep symmetrical but remember that you have to maintain either the 3 or 4 shift butt system, which ever you chose. I also often see that people lay the king plank and those either side with short pieces and butts showing. This may be correct but I just think that the carpenters of the time would of allowed for the fact that there was gratings etc. In real practice the gratings would have been done first and then the decking. Therefore, unless there was a very long distance between gratings, you wouldn't see any butts between planks. This would mean, that in your case, the king plank and at least the first three either side could be laid in one length.
What do others think?
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Thunder got a reaction from Jobbie in HM Brig Supply by Jobbie - Caldercraft - Scale 1:64
Hi Jobbie, was a little confused for a moment as you mentioned 'lifts' which go to the yard arm ends and are combined with the t'gallent sheets. You are working on the 'tyes', (which were used to lift the yard up into position, just to confuse things).
Just a point but i am sure the trucks were provided in my kit of HMS Supply. If not i tend to use glass beads which can be brought in black at different sizes.
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Thunder reacted to realworkingsailor in Chris Watton and Vanguard Models news and updates Volume 2
Not as much as you might think. The effective range of a ship’s rudder is somewhere in the nature of 30 to 35 degrees port or starboard. Any further and the rudder begins to act as a brake, and any gains in turning speed is offset by more dramatic losses in forward movement, a critical factor in turning a square rigged ship to be able to miss getting caught in stays.
Andy
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Thunder got a reaction from William-Victory in Order of attack for rigging a model (section)
Most modellers find their own way to rig ships that is comfortable to them but if you want it to look correct you need to do it as was done on the real ships as much as possible. This is because the rigging was put over the head of a mast in a certain order. Below is the order i complete my rigging. What i will do, however, is plan each item ahead so as to install rigging blocks when more accessible. If you don't you will not get your fingers in to tie them off.
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Thunder got a reaction from Victoria in Order of attack for rigging a model (section)
Most modellers find their own way to rig ships that is comfortable to them but if you want it to look correct you need to do it as was done on the real ships as much as possible. This is because the rigging was put over the head of a mast in a certain order. Below is the order i complete my rigging. What i will do, however, is plan each item ahead so as to install rigging blocks when more accessible. If you don't you will not get your fingers in to tie them off.
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Thunder got a reaction from JacquesCousteau in Aurora by IllicitFive - OcCre - Brig
I wouldn't be disheartened, don't you think that we have all been here. You can use the fill and file method as Roger suggests but depends on what you want to do. If you do that you will be in a similar place on your next kit or use it for learning, post on here for each stage and questions, make this kit great and then the next even better. Look at it this way - twice the value in one kit.
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Thunder got a reaction from IllicitFive in Aurora by IllicitFive - OcCre - Brig
I wouldn't be disheartened, don't you think that we have all been here. You can use the fill and file method as Roger suggests but depends on what you want to do. If you do that you will be in a similar place on your next kit or use it for learning, post on here for each stage and questions, make this kit great and then the next even better. Look at it this way - twice the value in one kit.
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Thunder got a reaction from JacquesCousteau in Aurora by IllicitFive - OcCre - Brig
Decision is, of course, yours, but the best way to use this kit for learning is to make it how you want it rather than just except what you have already done. I think, for the cost of some replacement wood, it is worth stripping and rescuing. Then you can be proud of what you have achieved.
I looked over your build and saw the below:
Looks to me that kit bulkheads wanted some work and did not help you from the start. The second and fourth being either placed too high, in wrong place or too short.
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Thunder got a reaction from IllicitFive in Aurora by IllicitFive - OcCre - Brig
Hi, the bevelling, dependant on hull shape, can, on occasion, need to be quite severe. If the bulkheads have no char i will make the edge nearest the centre of the hull with black marker pen. This is a great 'tell tale' that you have not taken too much away and altered the bulkhead shape.
Worth remembering that on a real ship the bulkheads at the bow, and sometimes stern, would not be set square to the keel, but be at an angle, called cant frames, therefore, on real ships, would not need the extremes of bevelling you do on a model.
If you look at the above and imagine the cant frames as square to the keel, you will see how much bevelling you actually need to do.
If you have not bevelled at all then your planks are on point contact and that will be why they are pulling off.
Whether i soak the wood will depend on the degree of curve required and the wood's flexibility. I generally, taper the planks, soak, clip in place, let dry, glue in place. I only normally put a taper on the edge, along its whole length, for the second planking. Some times i will soak for a few minutes, shape with a hot iron, which also drys it, and then glue in place.
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Thunder got a reaction from Canute in Tips to start building model ships again
I would have to agree with Chris. Out of the three i would say that the Endeavour would be the most difficult to plank and the Snake the easier. However, having built the Caldercraft Cruiser i would have to say that instructions are not great. The newer models from Vanguard will be exceptional.
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Thunder got a reaction from mtaylor in Interesting knot tying gizmo.
Hi, why have i never thought of this, I have three of these that i use for angling. Use them for tying on spade end hooks. You can get much smaller ones than those shown here that might be better. They are sold in any angling shop in the uk.
The 'Stonfo' version has a much better thumbwheel position and handle is free rotating so easier to hold hook and turn device round.
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Thunder got a reaction from TBlack in Interesting knot tying gizmo.
Hi, why have i never thought of this, I have three of these that i use for angling. Use them for tying on spade end hooks. You can get much smaller ones than those shown here that might be better. They are sold in any angling shop in the uk.
The 'Stonfo' version has a much better thumbwheel position and handle is free rotating so easier to hold hook and turn device round.
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Thunder got a reaction from thibaultron in Interesting knot tying gizmo.
Hi, why have i never thought of this, I have three of these that i use for angling. Use them for tying on spade end hooks. You can get much smaller ones than those shown here that might be better. They are sold in any angling shop in the uk.
The 'Stonfo' version has a much better thumbwheel position and handle is free rotating so easier to hold hook and turn device round.
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Thunder got a reaction from Canute in Interesting knot tying gizmo.
Hi, why have i never thought of this, I have three of these that i use for angling. Use them for tying on spade end hooks. You can get much smaller ones than those shown here that might be better. They are sold in any angling shop in the uk.
The 'Stonfo' version has a much better thumbwheel position and handle is free rotating so easier to hold hook and turn device round.
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Thunder got a reaction from Gregory in Interesting knot tying gizmo.
Hi, why have i never thought of this, I have three of these that i use for angling. Use them for tying on spade end hooks. You can get much smaller ones than those shown here that might be better. They are sold in any angling shop in the uk.
The 'Stonfo' version has a much better thumbwheel position and handle is free rotating so easier to hold hook and turn device round.
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Thunder got a reaction from mtaylor in Tips to start building model ships again
I would have to agree with Chris. Out of the three i would say that the Endeavour would be the most difficult to plank and the Snake the easier. However, having built the Caldercraft Cruiser i would have to say that instructions are not great. The newer models from Vanguard will be exceptional.
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Thunder got a reaction from markjay in Tips to start building model ships again
I would have to agree with Chris. Out of the three i would say that the Endeavour would be the most difficult to plank and the Snake the easier. However, having built the Caldercraft Cruiser i would have to say that instructions are not great. The newer models from Vanguard will be exceptional.
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Thunder got a reaction from Ryland Craze in Tips to start building model ships again
I would have to agree with Chris. Out of the three i would say that the Endeavour would be the most difficult to plank and the Snake the easier. However, having built the Caldercraft Cruiser i would have to say that instructions are not great. The newer models from Vanguard will be exceptional.
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Thunder got a reaction from AJohnson in Tips to start building model ships again
I would have to agree with Chris. Out of the three i would say that the Endeavour would be the most difficult to plank and the Snake the easier. However, having built the Caldercraft Cruiser i would have to say that instructions are not great. The newer models from Vanguard will be exceptional.
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Thunder got a reaction from dvm27 in Order of attack for rigging a model (section)
Most modellers find their own way to rig ships that is comfortable to them but if you want it to look correct you need to do it as was done on the real ships as much as possible. This is because the rigging was put over the head of a mast in a certain order. Below is the order i complete my rigging. What i will do, however, is plan each item ahead so as to install rigging blocks when more accessible. If you don't you will not get your fingers in to tie them off.
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Thunder got a reaction from allanyed in Order of attack for rigging a model (section)
Most modellers find their own way to rig ships that is comfortable to them but if you want it to look correct you need to do it as was done on the real ships as much as possible. This is because the rigging was put over the head of a mast in a certain order. Below is the order i complete my rigging. What i will do, however, is plan each item ahead so as to install rigging blocks when more accessible. If you don't you will not get your fingers in to tie them off.
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Thunder got a reaction from bc_63 in Order of attack for rigging a model (section)
Most modellers find their own way to rig ships that is comfortable to them but if you want it to look correct you need to do it as was done on the real ships as much as possible. This is because the rigging was put over the head of a mast in a certain order. Below is the order i complete my rigging. What i will do, however, is plan each item ahead so as to install rigging blocks when more accessible. If you don't you will not get your fingers in to tie them off.
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Thunder got a reaction from mtaylor in Order of attack for rigging a model (section)
Most modellers find their own way to rig ships that is comfortable to them but if you want it to look correct you need to do it as was done on the real ships as much as possible. This is because the rigging was put over the head of a mast in a certain order. Below is the order i complete my rigging. What i will do, however, is plan each item ahead so as to install rigging blocks when more accessible. If you don't you will not get your fingers in to tie them off.
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